Vyshyvanka Explained

Vyshyvanka (Ukrainian: вишива́нка pronounced as /uk/ or Ukrainian: виши́ванка pronounced as /uk/;[1] Belarusian: вышыванка|vyšyvánka) is a casual name for the embroidered shirt in Ukrainian[2] [3] [4] and Belarusian[5] [6] [7] national costumes. Ukrainian vyshyvankas are distinguished by embroidery features specific to Ukrainian embroidery.[8]

Etymology

"Vyshyvanka" in the meaning of Ukrainian vyshyvanka is a loanword from Ukrainian.[9] [10] The word is from вишива́ти (vyshyváty, "to embroider") and -а́нка (-ánka), which means "something that is embroidered".

Ukrainian vyshyvankas

Embroidery

See main article: Ukrainian embroidery. The embroidery is a fundamental element of the Ukrainian folk costume in both sexes. Ukrainian vyshyvanka is distinguished by local embroidery features specific to Ukrainian embroidery:

In Ukrainian embroidery, black, red, and white colours are basic, and yellow, blue, and green are supplementary.

In the area which now constitutes the modern nation of Ukraine, embroidery existed already in the 5th century B.C in Scythian art. Ukraine is famous throughout the world for its highly artistic embroidery. It is important for the embroiderer today to use folk art as a source without altering stitches or colours because every change devalues a piece of embroidery and distorts it.[11]

Artistic influence

Other national dresses

The costume of Ukrainian settlers since the 17th century had most certainly influenced southern Russian dress, with the sleeves of the chemises of girls and young women decorated with geometric embroidery in black or red.[12]

High fashion

During Paris Fashion Week 2015, Ukrainian fashion designer Vita Kin was featured in Vogue magazine[13] and Harper's Bazaar for introducing vyshyvanky as modern Bohemian style designs[14] that attracted fashion icons like Anna Dello Russo, Miroslava Duma, and Leandra Medine.[15] The designer transformed vyshyvanka shirt into a more modern version. She kept the traditional form, but changed the embroidery borrowing some elements from Ukrainian rushnyk and home textile.[16]

In its US May issue Vogue wrote that the vyshyvanka has "made waves far past the Eastern European country". The Times of London declared it "this summer's [2016] most sought-after item of clothing", soon following was the New York Times who advised readers to stock up on this "top of summer" fashion.[17] French actress Melanie Thierry wore a vyshyvanka at the 2016 Cannes Film Festival.[17] Queen Máxima of the Netherlands wore a vyshyvanka dress when visiting the 2016 Summer Olympics.[17]

Meaning

Traditional beliefs

Vyshyvanka is used as a talisman to protect the person wearing it and to tell a story. The person who created and manufactured it is also protected by evil intentions.[18] A geometric pattern woven in the past by adding red or black threads into the light thread was later imitated by embroidery and believed to have the power to protect a person from all harm. There is a saying in Ukrainian "Народився у вишиванці" which is translated as somebody was born wearing vyshyvanka, so that is guarded, shielded, and defended by whoever made it. The geometrical figures represented in the Vyshyvanka originate from a single letter, word or story; intentions while embroidering a Vyshyvanka are also very important because it is used to emphasize someone's luck and ability to survive in any situation.

Patriotism

Archduke Wilhelm of Austria was a Ukrainian nationalist who preferred wearing the vyshyvanka and was therefore known in Ukrainian as Vasyl Vyshyvanyi (Basil the Embroidered). The Vyshyvanoho Square was named in his honor in the city of Lviv.

Vyshyvanka and other national symbols became extremely popular in Ukraine following Euromaidan, including in LGBT+ communities symbolizing their belonging to the nation.[19]

Vyshyvanka is not present in the traditional Russian women's costume with the sarafan consisting of a long full skirt hanging just below the arms with straps or an extremely abbreviated bodice that secures it over the shoulders.

Celebration

Vyshyvanka Day originated in 2006 at Chernivtsi National University by its student Lesia Voroniuk[20] and gradually became international as the International Day of Vyshyvanka.[21] [22] It is celebrated on the third Thursday of May.[23] It is intended to unite all Ukrainians over the world, regardless of religion, language they speak or their place of residence.[24] It is a flash mob holiday, which is not attached to any public holiday or feast day.[25] On this day, many Ukrainians wear vyshyvanky to demonstrate commitment to the idea of national identity and unity and to show their patriotism. State officials, including municipal, court, and the government officials and the head of the state,[26] may take part in celebration.

In 2018, the Appeal Instance of the Ministry of Economic Development and Trade of Ukraine conducted a research and came to the following conclusions:[27]

Belarusian vyshyvanka

The vyshyvanka is regarded as a national symbol by members of the government and opposition alike, with Minister of Foreign Affairs Vladimir Makei saying in 2017, "The patterns used to embroider these shirts have never promoted violence or evil. Quite the contrary, they promote goodness and peacefulness. They reflect the mentality of the Belarusian people, our spirit."[28] Unlike in Ukraine, where the embroidery's features are primarily determined by region, the Belarusian vyshyvanka is embroidered according to national and personal history, and is also often used to record information. It is also commonly claimed that vyshyvanky help to ward off evil spirits.[29] [30]

During the 2020–2021 Belarusian protests, the vyshyvanka became a symbol of the Belarusian opposition, as well as the Belarusian national identity in general.[31] The online website Vyzhyvanka (from vyshyvanka and) by Belarusian-Czech artist Rufina Bazlova was noted as a significant symbol of the protest movement.[32] [33]

Mathematical modeling

A number of researchers have developed methods for studying and formalizing mathematics of vyshyvanka embroidery.[34] [35] [36] These methods include a formal language for describing embroidery patterns and algorithms for generating them, using reflection symmetry and theory of reflection groups, rotational symmetry, frieze groups that describe border patterns repeating in one direction, and wallpaper groups that describe patterns covering the entire plane.

Gallery

Ukrainian vyshyvanka

See also

Notes and References

  1. Web site: uk. Ukrainian Language Dictionary. Potebnia Institute of Linguistics. 2019-02-25.
  2. Everyday Ethnicity in Chernivtsi, Western Ukraine.. Anthropology of East Europe Review. 32. 1. Spring 2014. Karolina Koziura. Maria Curie-Sklodowska University. Poland. 2016-01-30. https://web.archive.org/web/20140604222301/https://scholarworks.iu.edu/journals/index.php/aeer/article/download/12772/19147. 2014-06-04. live.
  3. Gender Assignment to Loanwords in Ukrainian. Filonik. Svitlana. 2013. Canadian Linguistic Association. Proceedings of the 2013 annual conference of the Canadian Linguistic Association. 2. https://web.archive.org/web/20191012192541/http://homes.chass.utoronto.ca/~cla-acl/actes2013/Filonik-2013.pdf. 12 October 2019. live.
  4. Book: Pereltsvaig, Asya . https://books.google.com/books?id=DB4xDwAAQBAJ&q=russian+vyshyvanka&pg=PA86 . Asya Pereltsvaig . Languages of the World: An Introduction . Languages of Northern Eurasia . 2017 . Cambridge . . 10.1017/9781316758854.006 . 86. 9781316758854 .
  5. Things to Have for a Belarusian: Rebranding the Nation via Online Participation. Studies in Russian, Eurasian and Central European New Media (Digitalicons.org). 17. 2017. 47–71. Western Michigan University. Elena Gapova. 2019-02-25. live. https://web.archive.org/web/20181016111005/http://www.digitalicons.org/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/DI17_4_Gapova.pdf. 2018-10-16.
  6. Web site: Makei: Vyshyvanka is a national symbol for Belarusians. 2019-02-25. BelTA. 2017-06-23. live. https://web.archive.org/web/20170628092738/http://eng.belta.by/society/view/makei-vyshyvanka-is-a-national-symbol-for-belarusians-102745-2017/. 2017-06-28.
  7. Web site: Vyshyvanka to be artistic centerpiece of Independence Day celebrations in Belarus. 2019-02-25. BelTA. 2016-07-01. live. 2016-07-03. https://web.archive.org/web/20160703191738/http://eng.belta.by/society/view/vyshyvanka-to-be-artistic-centerpiece-of-independence-day-celebrations-in-belarus-92692-2016/.
  8. 189–190. JJ Gurga. Ph.D.. September 2012. Echoes of the Past: Ukrainian Poetic Cinema and the Experiential Ethnographic Mode. University College London (UCL). 2016-01-30. https://web.archive.org/web/20151022065624/http://discovery.ucl.ac.uk/1380194/1/JJ%20Gurga%20-%20Thesis%20-%20Final%20version.pdf. 2015-10-22. live.
  9. Hromova . Viktoriia . 2017 . Лінгвокультурні лакуни українсько-англійського перекладу: засоби подолання проблеми безеквівалентності . Linguocultural Lacunae of Translation from Ukrainian into English: Means for Overcoming the Problem of Absence of Equivalent . uk . Philological Studies . 8 . 26–27 . 12 October 2019 . . https://web.archive.org/web/20191012195949/http://dspace.onu.edu.ua:8080/jspui/bitstream/123456789/13760/1/25-30.pdf. 12 October 2019 . live.
  10. Book: Теорія і практика перекладу: курс лекцій з дисципліни для студентів денної форми навчання напряму підготовки 6.020303 "Філологія* (англійська)" . 18 . . 2017 . Mukachevo State University . en . Theory and Practice of Translation: Course of Lectures in Discipline for Full-Time Students Studying 6.020303 "Philology* (English)" . V. I. Harapko . https://web.archive.org/web/20191012203515/http://dspace.msu.edu.ua:8080/bitstream/123456789/620/1/Harapko%20V.I.%20Teoriya%20i%20praktyka%20perekladu.pdf . 12 October 2019 . live.
  11. Book: Ukrainian Folk Costumes . Odarchenko . Petro . Carynnyk . Halyna . Paszczak-Tracz . Orysia . Toronto — Philadelphia . 1992 . the World Federation of Ukrainian Women's Organizations. Folk Art Committee . uk, en . 90-071681 . https://web.archive.org/web/20191014114157/https://kutsenko.udpu.edu.ua/wp-content/%D0%9A%D0%BD%D0%B8%D0%B3%D0%B8/%D0%A3%D0%BA%D1%80%D0%B0%D1%97%D0%BD%D1%81%D1%8C%D0%BA%D0%B8%D0%B9%20%D0%BA%D0%BE%D1%81%D1%82%D1%8E%D0%BC.pdf . 14 October 2019 . live.
  12. Book: Condra, Jill . Encyclopedia of National Dress: Traditional Clothing Around the World . 2013 . ABC-CLIO . 978-0-313-37636-8 . 624.
  13. Web site: Liana Satenstein. Your Favorite Bohemian Garb Is Actually Traditional Ukrainian Costume. Vogue. Apr 28, 2015. 2015-04-28.
  14. Web site: Tara Lamont-Djite. We're Obsessed:Vita Kin Introduces The Perfect Bohemia. Harper's Bazaar. Apr 14, 2015. 2015-04-14.
  15. Web site: DESIGNERS TO WATCH: Vyshyvankas by Vita Kin – Traditional Ukrainian Chic. Fashion For Fashionlovers. May 14, 2015. 2015-05-14. https://web.archive.org/web/20150529221857/http://fashionforfashionlovers.com/2015/05/14/designers-to-watch-vyshyvankas-by-vita-kin-traditional-ukrainian-chic/. May 29, 2015. dead. mdy-all.
  16. Сучасна інтерпретація українського народного костюму в дизайні жіночого одягу . The international scientific-practical conference "Topical Issues of Modern Design" . 2020-04-23 . Kyiv . Modern interpretation of Ukrainian folk costume in the design of women's clothing . uk . Kolisnichenko . M. . Pashkevich . K. . Yezhova . O. . Navrotska . A. . . 276.
  17. https://www.yahoo.com/news/vyshyvanka-ukraines-national-costume-conquers-catwalk-144536654.html Vyshyvanka: Ukraine's national costume conquers the catwalk
  18. Web site: У Києві відкрилася виставка вишиванок з усієї України (Vyshyvanka exhibition in Kyiv). 1TV. 2015-09-11. 2016-01-29. https://web.archive.org/web/20150925120843/http://1tv.com.ua/news/71972. 2015-09-25. live.
  19. PhD . Plakhotnik . Olga . 2019 . Olga Plakhotnik . Imaginaries of Sexual Citizenship in Post-Maidan Ukraine: A Queer Feminist Discursive Investigation . . 120 . https://web.archive.org/web/20191014143925/https://oro.open.ac.uk/62741/1/_Olga_Plakhotnik_Thesis_final.pdf . 14 October 2019 . live.
  20. Web site: Vyshyvanka Day: 20 facts that will surprise you .
  21. Web site: Ukraine marks Vyshyvanka Day on May 18 (Video) . 18 May 2017 . . 14 October 2019 . https://web.archive.org/web/20180910184717/https://www.unian.info/society/1928404-ukraine-marks-vyshyvanka-day-on-may-18.html . 10 September 2018 . live.
  22. Web site: Ivanova . Natalia . Multicolored Vyshyvanka Parade in Kharkiv . 18 May 2019 . Kharkiv Observer . 14 October 2019 . https://web.archive.org/web/20190621165602/http://kharkivobserver.com/multicolored-vyshyvanka-parade-in-kharkiv/ . 21 June 2019 . live.
  23. Web site: Poltava celebrated the Day of vyshyvanka . PoltNTU press . Rena Darsania . 2015-06-04 . 2016-05-01 . dead . https://web.archive.org/web/20160501160019/http://pntu.edu.ua/en/news/archieve/1953/u-poltavi-vidznachyly-den-vyshyvanky.html . 2016-05-01 .
  24. Web site: Cabinet of Ministers Secretariat celebrates Vyshyvanka Day. Information and Communication Department of the Secretariat of the CMU. Government portal. 2015-05-21. 2016-01-30. https://web.archive.org/web/20160129225902/http://www.kmu.gov.ua/control/en/publish/article?art_id=248175007&cat_id=244314975. 2016-01-29. live.
  25. Web site: Deputy Minister of Information Policy Tetiana Popova Participates in Press Conference Dedicated to Vyshyvanka Day. Ministry of Information Policy of Ukraine. 2015-04-21. 2016-01-30. https://web.archive.org/web/20160129225945/http://mip.gov.ua/en/news/227.html. 2016-01-29. live.
  26. Web site: Our vyshyvanka unites the country - President during the flashmob on Vyshyvanka Day in Dnipro. Official website of the President of Ukraine. 2018-05-17. 2018-09-13. live. 2018-09-13. https://web.archive.org/web/20180913124711/https://www.president.gov.ua/en/news/nasha-vishivanka-obyednuye-krayinu-prezident-pid-chas-fleshm-47498.
  27. Web site: The Decision No. 1151 of the Ministry of Economic Development and Trade of Ukraine. https://web.archive.org/web/20180913131546/http://www.me.gov.ua/Files/GetFile?lang=uk-UA&fileId=7b050590-e3cd-483d-84d6-f19f466e086b. live. 2018-09-13. 2018-09-13. 2018-08-17.
  28. News: 26 June 2017 . Makei: Vyshyvanka is a national symbol for Belarusians . . 20 June 2022.
  29. Web site: Bazlova . Rufina . The History of Belarusian Vyzhyvanka . 20 June 2022 . vyzyvanka.com.
  30. News: McEnchroe . Tom . 14 August 2020 . Belarusian artist in Prague embroiders anti-Lukashenko protests "to ward off bad spirits" . . 20 June 2022.
  31. LaVey . A. M. . 29 October 2021 . Reading Belarus: The Evolving Semiosis of Belarusian Textiles . Journal of Belarusian Studies . 11 . 2 . 175–205 . 10.30965/20526512-12350011 . 240303061 . y . Brill.
  32. Web site: Norris . Stephen M. . History, Memory, and the Art of Protest in Belarus . 20 June 2022 . Origins: Current Events in Historical Perspective. 12 February 2021 .
  33. Web site: 3 March 2021 . The History of Belarusian Vyzhyvanka . 20 June 2022 . UCLA Center for European and Russian Studies.
  34. Засорнова Ірина Олександрівна. Розробка процесу оздоблення вишивкою жіночих костюмів з урахуванням українських народних традицій.- Дисертація канд. техн. наук: 05.18.19, Хмельниц. нац. ун-т. — Хмельницький, 2012.- 210 с. : рис., табл.
  35. http://www.disser.com.ua/contents/26531.html Автореферат дисертації канд. техн. наук: 01.05.02 / К. М. Березька
  36. Березька К. М., Березький О. М. Програмно-апаратний комплекс створення вишивок // Матер. Всеукраїнської наук. конф. «Застосування обчислювальної техніки, математичного моделювання та математичних методів у наукових дослідженнях». — Львів, 1999. — С. 7.

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