Second wine explained

Second wine or second label (French: Second vin) is a term commonly associated with Bordeaux wine to refer to a second label wine made from cuvee not selected for use in the Grand vin or first label. In some cases a third wine or even fourth wine is also produced. Depending on the house winemaking style, individual plots of a vineyard may be selected, often those of the youngest vines, and fermented separately, with the best performing barrels being chosen for the house's top wine and the other barrels being bottled under a separate label and sold for a lower price than the Grand vin.

In less favorable vintages, an estate may choose to release only a second label wine rather than to release a smaller than normal quantity of its Grand vin or a wine that would not be consistent with past vintages under that name. The practice has its roots in the 18th century but became more commercially prominent in the 1980s when consumers discovered these wines as a more affordable way to drink the product of a First growth or classified Bordeaux estate without paying the premium for the estate's label and classification.[1] The opposite phenomenon, of only releasing a top wine in exceptional years (rather than in most years) is seen in Iberia (Spain and Portugal) in "Gran Reserva" reserve wine and vintage port.

From the producer's point of view, a second wine allows the winery to use a stricter selection for its Grand Vin, while still capitalising on its name and distribution channels in selling the second wine, which will be much more profitable than selling off lesser wine "anonymously" to be used in e.g. negociant bulk bottlings.

History

The practice of establishing a second wine began in the 18th century as way for Bordeaux winemakers to be more selective of the wine going into their estate label wine without wasting the remaining wine. According to records, Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande shipped its "second wine" of the 1874 vintage to the 1891 Exposition française in Moscow, although La Réserve de la Comtesse would not be for sale to the public until 1973.[2] [3] Château Brane-Cantenac may have had a second label some time in the 18th century according to Decanter, but more evidently, Château Léoville-Las Cases first produced its Clos du Marquis in 1904, and Château Margaux followed with Pavillon Rouge produced from 1908.[4]

Château Mouton Rothschild released the poor 1927 vintage, then named Carruades de Mouton, followed in 1930 by Mouton Cadet as a second label, selling wine from previous difficult harvests considered unfit as château Grand vin vintage at reduced prices, eventually to successful response.[5] [6] The estate has since expanded with more labels pushing Mouton Cadet further down its portfolio,[1] with Le Petit Mouton de Mouton Rothschild currently the estate's second wine and Mouton Cadet evolving into its own brand with a distinctly different marketing strategy.[5]

In the drive to higher quality that has taken place in recent decades, additional Bordeaux châteaux have added second wine. With the increased market competition since the 1980s, estates became more selective in the assemblage stage, making greater parts of the production disposed to be either sold off in bulk, or blended into second (or third) wine.[7] [8] For example, since the 2009 vintage, Château Margaux has produced three wines that are bottled, and a fourth wine which is sold in bulk.[9]

Having a second wine is generally a part of the recipe prescribed by Michel Rolland and similar wine-making consultants. As an example, Château Kirwan, a Third Growth in Margaux, added their second wine Les Charmes de Kirwan in 1993, after Rolland was brought in.[10]

Production

In many ways the production of a second wine mirrors the production of estate's Grand vin being made from the same vineyard, with the same blend of grapes and by the same winemaker. Some selection takes place already after harvest, when plots that are often underperforming or are planted with younger vines will be earmarked for the second wine, which means that they receive a "cheaper" treatment with a lower percentage of new barrels. Additional selection will be done after the barrel aging when the winemaker will isolate the best performing barrels that most reflects the house style of the estate label with the remaining wine being bottled under second or even third and fourth labels.

The second wine may have some hints and characteristics of the estate wine but is typically less polished and structured than the estate wine. An estate will rarely promote its second wines and most wine labels will not even mention the parent estate because of the desire to keep the estate solely associated with its Grand vin.[11] However, some high end producers market their second wine as a "wine for earlier consumption" (i.e., quicker to mature) rather than "a lesser wine".

Naming and classification practices

Second wines often do not have the word "château" in their name, but they frequently sport some other part of their winery's name to add name recognition. The second wines of classified growths, since they are different wines, are not themselves part of the 1855 classification or other classifications. They are, however, entitled to use the same appellation as the Grand Vin, as they originate from the same terroir. As an example, Les Forts de Latour is an AOC Pauillac just like Château Latour, but is not a First Growth or any other kind of classified growth.

List of Bordeaux second and third wines

Médoc 1855 classed growths

First Growth estatesSecond wineThird wine
Les Forts de LatourLe Pauillac de Château Latour[12] [13]
Pavillon Rouge de Château MargauxMargaux de Château Margaux[14]
Château Mouton-RothschildLe Petit Mouton de Mouton Rothschild
Le Clarence de Haut-Brion (previously Château Bahans Haut-Brion)[15]
Château Lafite RothschildCarruades de Lafite-Rothschild
Second Growth estates
Ségla
Chevalier de Rauzan-Gassies (previously Enclos de Moncabon)
Le Petit Lion de Marquis de las Cases (replaced Clos du Marquis since 2007)
Château Moulin Riche
Château Léoville BartonLa Réserve de Léoville Barton
Vivens de Durfort-Vivens (previously Domaine de Curebourse)
Sarget de Gruaud-Larose
Chevalier de LascombesChâteau Segonnes
Baron de Brane
Les Tourelles de Longueville
Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande  Reserve de la Comtesse
La Croix de BeaucaillouLe Petit Ducru de Ducru-Beaucaillou
Les Pagodes de Cos[16]
La Dame de MontroseLe St-Estèphe de Montrose
Third Growth estates
Château KirwanLes Charmes de Kirwan
Château d'IssanBlason d'Issan
Les Fiefs de Lagrange
Lady Langoa[17]
La Sirène de Giscours
La Dame de Malescot
Brio de Cantenac-Brown
Jacques Boyd
Alter Ego de Palmer (replaced Réserve du Général in 1998)[18]
Moulin de la Lagune
Initial de Desmirail
Château Marquis de Calon
Les Remparts de Ferrière
Château Marquis d'Alesme BeckerMarquise d'Alesme
Fourth Growth estates
Château TalbotConnétable de Talbot
Duluc de Branaire-Ducru
Moulin de Duhart
Château PougetAntoine Pouget
Les Douves de Carnet
Les Pélerins de Lafon-Rochet
Amiral de Beychevelle
La Cloître Prieuré-Lichine
Les Gondats de Marquis de Terme
Château Saint-PierreEsprit de Saint-Pierre
Fifth Growth estates
Les Hauts de Pontet-Canet
Château La Tour l'Aspic
Lacoste-Borie
Prélude à Grand-Puy Ducasse
Echo de Lynch-BagesPauillac de Lynch-Bages
Château du TertreLes Hauts du Tertre
La Bastide de DauzacChâteau Labarde
La Chapelle de Bages
Fleur de PédesclauxLe Haut-Médoc de Pédesclaux
Diane de Belgrave
La Closerie de Camensac
Le Charme Labory
La Tourelle de Croizet-Bages
Les Allées de CantemerleBaronne Caroline
Château Clerc MilonPastourelle de Clerc Milon
Château BatailleyLions de Batailley
Château Lynch-MoussasLes Hauts de Lynch-Moussas

Sauternes 1855 classed growths

First Growth estatesSecond wine
Les Charmilles de Tour Blanche
La Chapelle de Lafaurie-Peyraguey
Château Clos Haut-Peyraguey  La Gourmandise de Clos Haut-Peyraguey
Madame de Rayne
Castelnau de Suduiraut
Chartreuse de Coutet
Cyprès de Climens
Petit Guiraud
Carmes de Rieussec (previously Clos la Bere)
Lieutenant de Sigalas
Second Growth estates
La Demoiselle de Doisy
Château Petit Védrines
Prieuré d'Arche
Esquisse de Nairac
Les Erables de Caillou
Saint-Hélène
Château Andoyse du Hayot
Les Tourelles de Lamothe
L'ouest de Lamothe-Guignard

Other Bordeaux

Graves classed estatesSecond wineThird wine
Château BouscautLes Chênes de Bouscaut
La Croix de Carbonnieux,[19] Château Tour Léognan[20]
Domaine de ChevalierL'Espirit de Chevalier[21]
Château CouhinsCouhins La Gravette
Château de FieuzalL'Abeille de Fieuzal
Haut-Bailly II[22] HB
Lagrave-Martillac[23]
Château Malartic-LagravièreSillage de Malartic[24]
La Chapelle de la Mission[25]
Château OlivierLa Seigneurie d'Olivier du Chateau Olivier[26]
Le Clémentin du Pape Clément
Château Smith Haut LafitteLes Hauts de Smith[27]
Saint-Émilion classed estates
Chapelle d'Ausone[28]
Le Petit Cheval
Carillon de L'AngélusNo. 3 d'Angélus
Château PavieAromes de Pavie
Château BeauséjourCroix de Beauséjour[29]
Château Beau-Séjour BécotTournelle de Beau-Séjour Bécot[30]
Château CanonClos de Canon[31]
Château FigeacPetit Figeac[32]
Clos FourtetCloserie de Fourtet[33]
Château Larcis DucasseMurmure de Larcis Ducasse[34]
Château La Fleur MorangeMathilde
Clos La Gaffelière[35]
Château MagdelaineLes Songes de Magdelaine (previously Château Saint Brice)[36]
Les Chênes de Macquin[37]
Château La Tour FigeacL'Esquisse de La Tour Figeac
Mondot
Château Trotte VieilleLa Vieille Dame de Trotte Vieille[38]
Château Canon-la-GaffelièreCôte Mignon La Gaffelière[39]
Château Grand Corbin-Despagne  Petit Corbin-Despagne[40]
Château d'ArsacKid d'Arsac[41]
L'Héritage de Chasse-Spleen and L'Oratoire de Chasse-Spleen[42]
Château MacCarthy[43]
Domaine Zédé and Z de Zédé[44]
Franck Phélan[45]
La Chapelle de Potensac (previously Château Lassalle)[46]
La Salle de Poujeaux[47]
Moulins de Citran
Unclassified estates
Château BeauregardLe Benjamin de Beauregard (previously Domaine des Douves)[48]
Château La ConseillanteDuo de Conseillante[49]
Château L'ÉvangileBlason de L'Évangile
Château Gazinl'Hospitalet de Gazin[50]
Château Peymartin[51]
Château LafleurLes Pensées de Lafleur[52]
Château MazeyresLe Seuil de Mazeyres[53]
Fugue de Nénin
Le Jardin de Petit Village
Vieux Château des Templiers
La Demoiselle de Sociando-Mallet[54]
Espérance de Trotanoy
Virginie de Valandraud and 3 de Valandraud[55]
Vieux Château CertanGravette de Certan[56]
Château l'Église ClinetLa Petite Eglise

List of non-Bordeaux second and third wines

California

WineryFirst wineSecond wine
Opus OneOverture
Dominus EstateDominusNapanook
Screaming EagleScreaming EagleThe Flight
Harlan EstateHarlan EstateThe Maiden
Grace FamilyGrace FamilyBlank
ScarecrowScarecrowM. Etain

Italy

WineryFirst wineSecond wineThird wine
Ornellaia (Tenuta dell'Ornellaia)OrnellaiaLe Serre NuoveLe Volte
Masseto (Tenuta dell'Ornellaia)MassetoMassetino
Tenuta San GuidoSassicaiaGuidalbertoLe Difese
Tenuta Luce della ViteLuceLucente

Spain

!Winery!First Wine!Second wine!Third wine
Vega SiciliaUnicoValbuena 5o
Alvaro PalaciosL'ErmitaFinca DofiLes Terrasses
Marques de MurrietaCastillo YgayMarques de Murrieta Gran ReservaMarques de Murrieta Reserva
Bodegas NumanthiaTermanthiaNumanthiaTermes
Bodegas ContadorContadorLa cueva del contadorPredicador
Dominio de PingusPingusFlor de PingusPSI

See also

References

Notes and References

  1. J. Robinson (ed) "The Oxford Companion to Wine" Third Edition pg 618–619 Oxford University Press 2006
  2. Web site: Conan. Eric, L'Express. Les grands crus dégriffés. January 24, 2005. fr. dead. https://web.archive.org/web/20071015080503/http://www.lexpress.fr/mag/saveurs/dossier/vin/dossier.asp?ida=431360. October 15, 2007.
  3. pichon-lalande.com Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande, la Réserve de la Comtesse
  4. News: The New York Times. Wine Talk . The New York Times . August 16, 1989.
  5. winepros.com.au. Web site: Oxford Companion to Wine. Mouton Cadet. dead. https://web.archive.org/web/20080820095352/http://www.winepros.com.au/jsp/cda/reference/oxford_entry.jsp?entry_id=2119. 2008-08-20.
  6. Web site: Kissack. Chris, thewinedoctor.com. Chateau d'Armailhac. 2007-12-16. 2007-12-23. https://web.archive.org/web/20071223111856/http://www.thewinedoctor.com/bordeaux/armailhac.shtml. live.
  7. winepros.com.au. Web site: Oxford Companion to Wine. second wines. dead. https://web.archive.org/web/20080808211131/http://www.winepros.com.au/jsp/cda/reference/oxford_entry.jsp?entry_id=2904. 2008-08-08.
  8. winepros.com.au. Web site: Oxford Companion to Wine. assemblage. dead. https://web.archive.org/web/20080809001100/http://www.winepros.com.au/jsp/cda/reference/oxford_entry.jsp?entry_id=192. 2008-08-09.
  9. Web site: Fact Sheet . 2024-03-13.
  10. Web site: Wine Journal Producer Profile Château Kirwan. https://archive.today/20130122090333/http://dat.erobertparker.com/members/winedata/producers/kirwan.asp. dead. 2013-01-22.
  11. K. MacNeil The Wine Bible pg 148 Workman Publishing 2001
  12. Web site: Second thoughts: Bordeaux second wines . August 18, 2014 . Decanter . February 4, 2017 . February 4, 2017 . https://web.archive.org/web/20170204171034/http://www.decanter.com/features/second-thoughts-245830/ . live .
  13. http://www.chateau-latour.com/en/vins/pauillac.php#/le-pauillac-de-chateau-latour Le Pauillac de Château Latour
  14. Web site: Margaux de Château Margaux . 2017-02-04 . 2017-01-19 . https://web.archive.org/web/20170119182116/http://www.chateau-margaux.com/en/vins/margaux-du-chateau-margaux,w,5 . live .
  15. Robinson, Jancis, jancisrobinson.com (May 24, 2008). La Mission celebrates 25 years
  16. Web site: Cosestournel.com: The other wines of Domaines Reybier. December 15, 2007. dead. https://web.archive.org/web/20071212194917/http://www.cosestournel.com/. 2007-12-12.
  17. Web site: Kissack. Chris, thewinedoctor.com. Chateau Langoa-Barton. 2007-12-15. 2008-09-16. https://web.archive.org/web/20080916123705/http://www.thewinedoctor.com/tastingsprofile/langoabarton.shtml. dead.
  18. mahler-besse.fr Alter Ego de Palmer
  19. Web site: La Croix de Carbonnieux .
  20. Web site: Château Tour Léognan .
  21. Web site: Kissack . Chris, thewinedoctor.com. Domaine de Chevalier .
  22. Web site: Château Haut-Bailly renames second wine. 12 March 2019.
  23. Web site: Kissack . Chris, thewinedoctor.com . Chateau Latour-Martillac . 2007-12-30 . 2008-01-03 . https://web.archive.org/web/20080103005034/http://www.thewinedoctor.com/bordeaux/latourmartillac.shtml . live .
  24. Web site: Kissack . Chris, thewinedoctor.com . Chateau Malartic-Lagravière . 2008-03-16 . 2008-03-04 . https://web.archive.org/web/20080304054212/http://www.thewinedoctor.com/bordeaux/malarticlagraviere.shtml . live .
  25. Web site: Kissack . Chris, thewinedoctor.com. Chateau La Mission Haut-Brion .
  26. Web site: Kissack . Chris, thewinedoctor.com . Chateau Olivier . 2008-03-16 . 2008-08-08 . https://web.archive.org/web/20080808115642/http://thewinedoctor.com/tastingsprofile/olivier.shtml . live .
  27. Web site: Kissack . Chris, thewinedoctor.com . Chateau Smith-Haut-Lafitte . 2008-03-16 . 2008-04-11 . https://web.archive.org/web/20080411174135/http://www.thewinedoctor.com/bordeaux/smithhautlafitte.shtml . live .
  28. cellarnotes.com Chateau Ausone
  29. saint-emilion-premiers.com Château Beauséjour technical file
  30. Web site: Kissack . Chris, thewinedoctor.com . Chateau Beau-Séjour Bécot . 2008-03-14 . 2011-11-03 . https://web.archive.org/web/20111103091718/http://www.thewinedoctor.com/bordeaux/beausejourbecot.shtml . live .
  31. Web site: Kissack . Chris, thewinedoctor.com . Chateau Canon .
  32. Web site: Kissack. Chris, thewinedoctor.com. Chateau Figeac. 2007-12-15. 2007-12-24. https://web.archive.org/web/20071224062241/http://www.thewinedoctor.com/bordeaux/figeac.shtml. live.
  33. Web site: Kissack . Chris, thewinedoctor.com. Clos Fourtet .
  34. Web site: Kissack . Chris, thewinedoctor.com . Chateau Larcis Ducasse . 2022-01-08 . 2021-10-19 . https://web.archive.org/web/20211019205723/http://www.thewinedoctor.com/bordeaux/larcisducasse.shtml . live .
  35. Web site: Kissack . Chris, thewinedoctor.com . Chateau La Gaffeliere . 2007-12-16 . 2007-12-24 . https://web.archive.org/web/20071224061947/http://www.thewinedoctor.com/bordeaux/gaffeliere.shtml . live .
  36. Web site: Kissack . Chris, thewinedoctor.com . Chateau Magdelaine . 2008-03-14 . 2008-02-22 . https://web.archive.org/web/20080222215334/http://www.thewinedoctor.com/bordeaux/magdelaine.shtml . live .
  37. Web site: Kissack. Chris, thewinedoctor.com. Chateau Pavie-Macquin. 2007-12-30. 2007-12-24. https://web.archive.org/web/20071224062637/http://www.thewinedoctor.com/bordeaux/paviemacquin.shtml. live.
  38. Web site: Kissack . Chris, thewinedoctor.com . Chateau Trottevieille . 2008-03-14 . 2008-02-22 . https://web.archive.org/web/20080222194049/http://www.thewinedoctor.com/bordeaux/trottevieille.shtml . live .
  39. Web site: Kissack . Chris, thewinedoctor.com . Chateau Canon-la-Gaffelière . 2008-03-14 . 2008-05-09 . https://web.archive.org/web/20080509072630/http://www.thewinedoctor.com/bordeaux/canonlagaffeliere.shtml . live .
  40. Web site: Kissack. Chris, thewinedoctor.com. Chateau Grand Corbin-Despagne. 2007-12-15. 2008-07-25. https://web.archive.org/web/20080725033442/http://thewinedoctor.com/tastingsprofile/grandcorbindespagne.shtml. dead.
  41. Web site: Home – Château d'Arsac . 2024-05-19 .
  42. Web site: Kissack . Chris, thewinedoctor.com . Chateau Chasse-Spleen . 2007-12-16 . 2007-12-23 . https://web.archive.org/web/20071223111901/http://www.thewinedoctor.com/bordeaux/chassespleen.shtml . live .
  43. Web site: Kissack . Chris, thewinedoctor.com . Chateau Haut-Marbuzet . 2007-12-16 . 2021-01-16 . https://web.archive.org/web/20210116021849/http://www.thewinedoctor.com/bordeaux/hautmarbuzet.shtml . live .
  44. Web site: Kissack . Chris, thewinedoctor.com . Chateau Labegorce Zede . 2007-12-16 . 2007-12-23 . https://web.archive.org/web/20071223105746/http://www.thewinedoctor.com/bordeaux/labegorcezede.shtml . live .
  45. Web site: Kissack . Chris, thewinedoctor.com . Chateau Phelan Segur . 2007-12-16 . 2007-12-20 . https://web.archive.org/web/20071220193317/http://www.thewinedoctor.com/bordeaux/phelansegur.shtml . live .
  46. Web site: Kissack . Chris, thewinedoctor.com . Chateau Potensac . 2007-12-16 . 2007-12-23 . https://web.archive.org/web/20071223105801/http://www.thewinedoctor.com/bordeaux/potensac.shtml . live .
  47. Web site: Kissack . Chris, thewinedoctor.com . Chateau Poujeaux . 2007-12-16 . 2007-12-23 . https://web.archive.org/web/20071223111949/http://www.thewinedoctor.com/bordeaux/poujeaux.shtml . live .
  48. Book: Peppercorn, David . Bordeaux . Mitchell Beazley . 2003 . London. 1-84000-927-6. 489–490 .
  49. Web site: Kissack . Chris, thewinedoctor.com . Chateau La Conseillante . 2008-03-16 . 2008-04-01 . https://web.archive.org/web/20080401032240/http://www.thewinedoctor.com/bordeaux/conseillante.shtml . live .
  50. Web site: Kissack . Chris, thewinedoctor.com . Chateau Gazin . 2008-03-16 . 2008-03-24 . https://web.archive.org/web/20080324032100/http://www.thewinedoctor.com/bordeaux/gazin.shtml . live .
  51. Web site: Kissack. Chris, thewinedoctor.com. Chateau Gloria. 2007-12-15. 2008-05-15. https://web.archive.org/web/20080515060758/http://www.thewinedoctor.com/tastingsprofile/gloria.shtml. dead.
  52. Web site: Rose . Anthony, Decanter.com . Chateau Lafleur wows buyers at Christie's sale . November 19, 2007 . March 16, 2008 . June 11, 2008 . https://web.archive.org/web/20080611133025/http://www.decanter.com/news/157792.html . dead .
  53. Web site: Kissack . Chris, thewinedoctor.com . Chateau Mazeyres . 2008-03-23 . 2008-03-22 . https://web.archive.org/web/20080322004400/http://www.thewinedoctor.com/tastingsprofile/mazeyres.shtml . live .
  54. Web site: Kissack . Chris, thewinedoctor.com . Chateau Sociando-Mallet . 2007-12-16 . 2007-12-24 . https://web.archive.org/web/20071224062642/http://www.thewinedoctor.com/bordeaux/sociandomallet.shtml . live .
  55. Web site: Belgium Wine Watchers. Château Valandraud. dead. https://archive.today/20130118061615/http://www.belgiumwinewatchers.com/N_wineinfo.asp?id=124. 2013-01-18.
  56. Web site: Kissack. Chris, thewinedoctor.com. Vieux Chateau Certan. 2008-03-16. 2008-10-10. https://web.archive.org/web/20081010043755/http://www.thewinedoctor.com/tastingsprofile/vcc.shtml. dead.