Speed climbing explained

Speed climbing is a climbing discipline in which speed is the ultimate goal.^[1] Speed climbing is done on rocks, walls and poles and is only recommended for highly skilled and experienced climbers.^[2]

Competition speed climbing, which takes place on an artificial and standardized climbing wall, is the main form of speed climbing. However, there are types of speed climbing that take place outdoors, such as climbing famous big wall climbing routes in the shortest times, notable examples being on El Capitan in Yosemite National Park.

Competition speed climbing

Competition speed climbing as governed by the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) takes place on 15m (49feet) artificial walls. Competitors climb a 5-degree overhanging IFSC-certified wall, with an auto-belaying system from the top of the wall.^[3]

Since 2007 the IFSC has created a standard wall for the world record. The standard has a simple rule and it involves climbers competing on the same route, side by side, and whoever reaches the top first wins.^[4] The holds and order are always identical, and the difficulty rating is around F6b (approximately YDS 5.10c), which is a level most recreational climbers could complete. The IFSC also sanctions speed climbing competitions^[5] and those events that entail world record attempts.^[6] Speed climbing was one of the three climbing modalities included in the combined format at the 2020 Olympic Games in Tokyo, along with lead and bouldering. Beginning at the 2024 Summer Olympics in Paris, speed climbing will be its own standalone competition, separate from the lead and bouldering combined event.^[7]

Time is determined by mechanical-electric timing (the competitor leaves the starting pad and strikes a switch at the top of the route). When mechanical-electric timing is used, the climbing time is displayed with an accuracy of one-hundredth of a second. In the rules modifications in 2018, the possibility to use manual timing was removed, and the mechanical-electric timing should record with a precision of 1/1000 second. This precision is only used for ranking in case of a tie. Further, the timing system needs to announce a false start, which is considered a start earlier than 0.1 seconds after the starting beep.^[8]

The Reza Technique

Reza Alipour Shenazandifard is an Iranian competition speed climber, presents at the 2016 World Cup in Wujiang, China “the Reza”, a brand new technique, trying to find a solution to this record that seems impossible to beat. Even Reza chose to skip an hold, exactly the number 4, the one at the start that brings you further away from an ideal linear trajectory. So he starts like the Classic Start but then he just goes directly to the hold number 5 and 6 with a quite big stretch obtaining a much linear trajectory instead of the classic start. At the second World Cup of the 2017 he made history by beating the old record and signing a record that will remain unbeaten for the next 4 years.^[9]

World champions

The defending men's and women's speed climbing world champions are Matteo Zurloni of Italy and Desak Made Rita Kusuma Dewi of Indonesia, respectively; they won their respective speed events at the 2023 IFSC Climbing World Championships in Bern, Switzerland.^[10] Veddriq Leonardo of Indonesia and Natalia Kalucka of Poland were the overall men's and women's winners for the 2023 IFSC Climbing World Cup speed series.^{[11] [12]}

World and Olympic records

Since Qixin Zhong of China ran the 15-meter standardized wall in 6.26 seconds in 2011, the world record has been broken 15 times, ten times since 2021, most recently 4.74 seconds by Samuel Watson of USA in August 2024 at the Paris 2024 Olympics. That represents a drop of 24.3 percent since 2011.

Similarly, the women's speed climbing record has been broken 20 times since 2013, nine times since 2021, dropping from 7.85 seconds to the 6.06 seconds set by Aleksandra Mirosław of Poland in August 2024, a 22.8-percent reduction.^[13]

Men's World Record History!Date!Time (s)!Person!Location!Competition

August 8, 2024	4.74^[14]	Samuel Watson	Paris, France	Olympics
August 6, 2024	4.75^[15]	Samuel Watson	Paris, France	Olympics
April 12, 2024	4.798^[16]	Samuel Watson	Wujiang, China	World Cup
April 12, 2024	4.859^[17]	Samuel Watson	Wujiang, China	World Cup
April 28, 2023	4.90^[18]	Veddriq Leonardo	Seoul, South Korea	World Cup
April 28, 2023	4.984^[19]	Veddriq Leonardo	Seoul, South Korea	World Cup
July 8, 2022	5.009^[20]	Kiromal Katibin	Chamonix, France	World Cup
June 30, 2022	5.04^[21]	Kiromal Katibin	Villars, Switzerland	World Cup
June 30, 2022	5.09^[22]	Kiromal Katibin	Villars, Switzerland	World Cup
-	May 27, 2022	5.10^[23] ^[24]	Kiromal Katibin	Salt Lake City, US	World Cup
May 6, 2022	5.17^[25]	Kiromal Katibin	Seoul, South Korea	World Cup
May 28, 2021	5.20^[26]	Veddriq Leonardo	Salt Lake City, US	World Cup
May 28, 2021	5.25^[27]	Kiromal Katibin	Salt Lake City, US	World Cup
April 30, 2017	5.48^[28]	Reza Alipour	Nanjing, China	World Cup
September 12, 2014	5.60^[29]	Danyil Boldyrev	Gijon, Spain	World Championships
August 31, 2014	5.73^[30]		Arco, Italy	World Cup
August 30, 2014	5.76^[31]	Libor Hroza	Arco, Italy	World Cup
October 13, 2012	5.88^[32]		Xining, China	World Cup
August 27, 2011	6.26^[33]		Arco, Italy	World Championships

Men's Olympic Record History!Date!Time (s)!Person!Location!Games

August 8, 2024	4.74	Samuel Watson	Paris, France
August 6, 2024	4.75	Samuel Watson	Paris, France	Paris 2024
August 6, 2024	4.79	Veddriq Leonardo	Paris, France	Paris 2024
August 3, 2021	5.45^[34]	Bassa Mawem	Aomi Urban Sports Park, Tokyo, Japan	Tokyo 2020

Women's World Record History!Date!Time (s)!Person!Location!Competition

August 5, 2024	6.06^[35]	Aleksandra Mirosław	Paris, France	Olympics
August 5, 2024	6.21^[36]	Aleksandra Mirosław	Paris, France	Olympics
September 15, 2023	6.24^[37]	Aleksandra Mirosław	Rome, Italy	IFSC European Olympic Qualifier
April 28, 2023	6.25^[38] ^[39]	Aleksandra Mirosław	Seoul, South Korea	World Cup
April 28, 2023	6.35^[40] ^[41]	Aleksandra Mirosław	Seoul, South Korea	World Cup
April 28, 2023	6.37^[42]	Aleksandra Mirosław	Seoul, South Korea	World Cup
April 28, 2023	6.46^[43]	Aleksandra Mirosław	Seoul, South Korea	World Cup
May 27, 2022	6.53^[44] ^[45]	Aleksandra Mirosław	Salt Lake City, US	World Cup
May 6, 2022	6.64^[46]	Aleksandra Mirosław	Seoul, South Korea	World Cup
August 6, 2021	6.84^[47]	Aleksandra Mirosław	Tokyo, Japan	Olympic Games
November 21, 2020	6.96^[48]	Iuliia Kaplina	Moscow, Russia	European Championships
October 19, 2019	6.99^[49]	Aries Susanti Rahayu	Xiamen, China	World Cup
April 26, 2019	7.10^[50]	Song Yiling	Chongqing, China	World Cup
April 22, 2018	7.32^[51]	Anouck Jaubert	Moscow, Russia	World Cup
July 22, 2017	7.32^[52]	Iuliia Kaplina	Wroclaw, Poland	World Games
April 30, 2017	7.38^[53]	Iuliia Kaplina	Nanjing, China	World Cup
April 23, 2017	7.46^[54]	Iuliia Kaplina	Chongqing, China	World Cup
July 11, 2015	7.53^[55]	Iuliia Kaplina	Chamonix, France	World Cup
June 21, 2015	7.56^[56]	Iuliia Kaplina	Chongqing, China	World Cup
May 17, 2015	7.74^[57]	Iuliia Kaplina	Central Saanich, Canada	World Cup
October 19, 2013	7.85^[58]	Iuliia Kaplina	Wujiang, China	World Cup

Women's Olympic Record History!Date!Time (s)!Person!Location!Games

August 5, 2024	6.06	Aleksandra Mirosław	Paris, France	Paris 2024
August 5, 2024	6.21	Aleksandra Mirosław	Paris, France	Paris 2024
August 5, 2024	6.36^[59]	Emma Hunt	Paris, France	Paris 2024
August 5, 2024	6.52^[60]	Desak Made Rita Kusuma Dewi	Paris, France	Paris 2024
August 5, 2024	6.54^[61]	Zhou Yafei	Paris, France	Paris 2024
August 6, 2021	6.84^[62]	Aleksandra Mirosław	Tokyo, Japan	Tokyo 2020
August 4, 2021	6.97^[63]	Aleksandra Mirosław	Tokyo, Japan	Tokyo 2020

Non-competition speed climbing

Most non-competition speed climbing records lack the standards normally associated with objective records. Competition speed climber Hans Florine has written about non-competition speed climbing: "I will be the first to say that climbing is silly. To make rules about it is just piling ridiculous on top of silly."^[64]

However, various climbers have set "speed records" on well-known and frequently climbed routes, such as Dan Osman climbing Lover's Leap via the Bear's Reach route (5.7, 120+ metre) in 4 min 25 sec.^[65] The most notable of such records are listed below:

Notable non-competition records

California

The Nose, El Capitan

• 1:58:07 Alex Honnold and Tommy Caldwell June 2018.^[66]
• 2:10:15 Alex Honnold and Tommy Caldwell May 2018.^[67]
• 2:19:44 Brad Gobright and Jim Reynolds October 2017.^[68]
• 2:45:45 Alexander and Thomas Huber, 2007 ^[69]
• 4:43:00 Mayan Smith-Gobat and Libby Sauter October 2014 (all female ascent).^[70]
• 12:15:00 Heidi Wertz and Wera Shulte-Pelcum 2004 (all female ascent).
• 11:41:00 Hans Florine solo. July 2005.
• 11:00:00 Tommy Caldwell 2005 (free ascent male).
• 12:00:00 Thierry Renault and Pascall Etienne (french climbers), 1979^[71]
• 23:46:00 Lynn Hill 1994 (free ascent).

Regular Northwest Route, Half Dome

• 1:53:25 Jim Herson and Hans Florine 1999.
• 5:25 Heidi Wertz and Wera Shulte-Pelcum 2004 (all female ascent).
• 3:58 Hans Florine solo 1999 (Full day also included El Cap).

Snake Dike, Half Dome

• 3:00 Dean Potter 1998 (car to car).

Joshua Tree National Park

• 280 Routes in a day Michael Reardon solo 2004.

Colorado

Bastille Crack

• 00:05:33 Mic Fairchild solo 1998.

Third Flatiron

• 36:27 Bill Briggs solo 1989 (car to car).

Nevada

Epinephrine

• 0:39:40 Alex Honnold 2018^[72]
• 1:15 Jash Stwart solo 2002.

Cat In The Hat

• 2:35 David Laxton solo 2013.

New York

The Gunks

• 50 Routes 13:30 Peter Darmi solo 2004.
• 46 Routes 13:30 Eric Weigeshoff and Peter Darmi 2004. 3400' of climbing and descent.
• 51 Routes 13:30 Eric Weigeshoff and Peter Darmi 2006 3400' of climbing and descent.

Wyoming

Grand Traverse

• 6:40 Rolando Garibotti solo 2000.

See also

• Competition bouldering
• Competition lead climbing
• Competition ice climbing

Notes and References

1. [Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills]
2. Web site: Climbing styles in traditional climbing - speed climbing. TimeOutdoors. August 4, 2018.
3. Web site: Project Information: Speed World Record. dead. https://web.archive.org/web/20190213070831/http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/about-ifsc/sport-department/speed-project. February 13, 2019.
4. News: What the Hell is Speed Climbing?. Climbing Magazine. 2018-08-03. en-us.
5. News: Event Regulations. 2018-08-03. en-gb.
6. News: What is Speed Climbing? The Basics You Need to Know. Stadsvold. Jenna. 2017-06-08. Head Rush Tech Blog. 2018-08-03. en-US.
7. News: Walker . Noah . The Paris Olympics – A New Scoring System . July 7, 2022 . Gripped . December 23, 2021.
8. https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/images/World_Competitions/IFSC-Rules_modification_2018_V15.pdf IFSC Rules modification 2018 V1.5, April 2018
9. News: Speed Climbing Techniques: The Reza. 19 October 2023 . Speed Climbing World. English.
10. Web site: IFSC - Climbing World Championships (B,L,S) - Bern 2023.
11. Web site: IFSC - Climbing World Cup (Speed Men) - 2023.
12. Web site: IFSC - Climbing World Cup (Speed Women) - 2023.
13. News: Walker . Noah . What is the Limit? Katibin Sets New Speed World Record . July 7, 2022 . Gripped . July 1, 2022.
14. Web site: Paris Olympics 2024 . 2024-08-08.
15. Web site: Paris Olympics 2024 . 2024-08-06.
16. Web site: IFSC World Cup Wujiang 2024 . 2024-04-12 .
17. Web site: IFSC World Cup Wujiang 2024 . 2024-04-12 .
18. Web site: IFSC Speed Climbing World Records. 2023-04-28.
19. International Federation of Sport Climbing . 1651822548345319425 . ifsclimbing . A sub-5 at the IFSC World Cup in Seoul for Leonardo Veddriq.
20. News: L'Indonésien Kiromal Katibin bat encore le record du monde d'escalade de vitesse et frôle la barre des 5 secondes . July 8, 2022 . L'Équipe . July 8, 2022 . FR.
21. ifsclimbing. 1542527819191914501 . On 27 May 2021, the men's Speed world record was 5.48 seconds. Then Kiromal Katibin landed on planet Earth. @fpti_official .
22. ifsclimbing. 1542509071630094342 . AND ANOTHA ONE!! Kiromal Katibin tears down another barrier and set a new men's Speed world Record with 5.09 seconds!.
23. Web site: Climbing Speed World Records Men.
24. Web site: IFSC Salt Lake City 2022-05-27 Men's Speed Event Page.
25. Web site: IFSC Seoul 2022-05-06 Men's Speed Event Page.
26. Web site: Speed Records.
27. International Federation of Sport Climbing. Kiromal Katibin DESTROYS the men's Speed world record!. 2021-05-28. https://ghostarchive.org/varchive/youtube/20211215/dmYcqGMJ5U4 . 2021-12-15 . live. 2021-05-29. YouTube.
28. International Federation of Sport Climbing. IFSC Climbing World Cup Nanjing 2017 - New Speed World Records. 2017-05-15. https://ghostarchive.org/varchive/youtube/20211215/xCWUEQEy7x8 . 2021-12-15 . live. 2018-07-06. YouTube.
29. Jan Kříž. NEW World speed climbing record - 5.60 seconds! WCH Gijon 2014. 2014-09-13. https://ghostarchive.org/varchive/youtube/20211215/n4n6xfu8VDU . 2021-12-15 . live. 2017-05-22. YouTube.
30. International Federation of Sport Climbing. IFSC Climbing World Cup Arco 2014 - Speed - Hroza Breaks World Record. 2014-09-01. https://ghostarchive.org/varchive/youtube/20211215/dEiIfunXTrc . 2021-12-15 . live. 2017-05-22. YouTube.
31. Edyta Ropek. Speed Climbing World Record by Libor Hroza, Arco, 30.08.2014 qualification round. 2014-08-30. https://ghostarchive.org/varchive/youtube/20211215/LdLIRqT2MWQ . 2021-12-15 . live. 2018-02-15. YouTube.
32. International Federation of Sport Climbing. Men's Speed Climbing World Record 5.88 - IFSC Climbing World Cup Xining 2012 - Speed. 2012-10-18. https://ghostarchive.org/varchive/youtube/20211215/eSD8uPn7-IA . 2021-12-15 . live. 2017-05-22. YouTube.
33. Jan Kříž. World record in speed climbing 2011 (6.26 seconds) HD. 2011-07-29. https://ghostarchive.org/varchive/youtube/20211215/0MVNR3JvL1U . 2021-12-15 . live. 2018-02-15. YouTube.
34. News: Olympics Games. 2020 Summer Olympic Games - Men's Speed qualifier. 2021-08-03. https://web.archive.org/web/20210803114406/https://olympics.com/tokyo-2020/en/news/bassa-mawem-dominates-speed-climbing-tokyo-2020. 2021-08-03. 2021-08-03.
35. Web site: IFSC Speed Climbing World Records.
36. Web site: IFSC Speed Climbing World Records.
37. Web site: IFSC Speed Climbing World Records.
38. Web site: IFSC Seoul 2023 Speed Finals. . 28 April 2023 .
39. Web site: IFSC Speed Climbing World Records.
40. Web site: IFSC Seoul 2023 Speed Finals. . 28 April 2023 .
41. Web site: IFSC Speed Climbing World Records.
42. International Federation of Sport Climbing . 1651838873453096960 . ifsclimbing . In race two of Speed qualification, Aleksandra Miroslaw lowers her time, AGAIN!.
43. International Federation of Sport Climbing . 1651835912937148417 . ifsclimbing . 28 APR 2023 - A 6.46 from the Polish Speed climber!.
44. Web site: Climbing Speed World Records Women.
45. Web site: IFSC Salt Lake City 2022-05-27 Women's Speed Event Page.
46. Web site: IFSC Seoul 2022-05-06 Women's Speed Event Page.
47. Web site: Tokyo 2020 Speed Finale Results . 2021-08-06 . 2021-08-06 . https://web.archive.org/web/20210806090119/https://olympics.com/tokyo-2020/olympic-games/en/results/sport-climbing/results-women-s-combined-fnl-0001sp-.htm . dead .
48. International Federation of Sport Climbing. Russia: Yulia Kaplina breaks speed climbing world record in Moscow. 2020-11-24. https://ghostarchive.org/varchive/youtube/20211215/iC2bRILHj0s . 2021-12-15 . live. 2021-05-29. YouTube.
49. Web site: Aries Susati Pecahkan Rekor Dunia Panjat Tebing. 20 October 2019. CNN Indonesia.
50. Web site: New Women's Speed World Record by Song Yi Ling . 26 April 2019.
51. Web site: IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B,S) - Moscow (RUS) 2018 .
52. Web site: Kaplina Sets New World Record, Iran Wins First Gold . 2018-12-06 . 2018-12-06 . https://web.archive.org/web/20181206234944/http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/news/item/972-gejo-and-ogata-awarded-first-medals-in-wroclaw . dead .
53. Web site: Records tumble on final day of IFSC World Cup in Nanjing . 30 April 2017 .
54. Web site: IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B,S) - Chongqing (CHN) 2017 .
55. Web site: Iuliia Kaplina Sets a New Women's World Speed Record . YouTube. 23 July 2015 . https://ghostarchive.org/varchive/youtube/20211215/et0TNsboSik . 2021-12-15 . live.
56. Web site: Speed Climbing World Cup in China . 21 June 2015.
57. Web site: New Women's World Speed Record and Gold medal to Iuliia Kaplina .
58. Web site: IFSC Speed Climbing World Record - Iuliia Kaplina at Wujiang 2013 . YouTube. 21 October 2013 . https://ghostarchive.org/varchive/youtube/20211215/RqAlRaYoLyo . 2021-12-15 . live.
59. Web site: Paris 2024 Speed Qualifications Results .
60. Web site: Paris 2024 Speed Qualifications Results .
61. Web site: Paris 2024 Speed Qualifications Results .
62. Web site: Tokyo 2020 Speed Finale Results . 2021-08-06 . 2021-08-06 . https://web.archive.org/web/20210806090119/https://olympics.com/tokyo-2020/olympic-games/en/results/sport-climbing/results-women-s-combined-fnl-0001sp-.htm . dead .
63. Web site: Tokyo 2020 Speed Qualifications Results .
64. Speed Climbing!: How to Climb Faster and Better 2nd edition, By Hans Florine, Bill Wright Published by Globe Pequot, 2004,, 978-0-7627-3095-7
65. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5D0P9aPu51A Dan Osman- Lover's Leap
66. Web site: The Nose Goes Sub 2: Honnold and Caldwell Set New Record of 1:58:07. 6 June 2018.
67. Web site: Alex Honnold and Tommy Caldwell Break Nose Speed Record. 30 May 2018.
68. Web site: Alex Honnold's Nose of el Capitan Speed Record Broken in Yosemite. https://web.archive.org/web/20171024222153/https://www.nationalgeographic.com/adventure/features/athletes/speed-record-climb-yosemite-el-capitan-the-nose-honnold/. dead. October 24, 2017. National Geographic Society. 23 October 2017.
69. Web site: 2024-08-18 . de . Neuer Speedrekord der Huberbuam an der Nose .
70. Web site: Video: Mayan Smith-Gobat and Libby Sauter Break el Cap Speed Record. 5 February 2015.
71. Web site: 2024-08-18 . Will Grey . de . Die legendären Speedkletter-Rekorde am El Capitan .
72. Web site: Brad Gobright is Alex Honnold's New Nemesis. 17 March 2018.