Shuitianyi Explained

C:水田衣
P:Shuǐtián yī
L:"Paddy field garment" or "rice-paddy robe"
Piccap:A style of shuitianyi used as a theatrical robe for a female Daoist priest (front view), 18th century.
Piccap2:Back view

Shuitianyi, also known as “paddy field garment”, "Shuitian clothing", or "rice-paddy robe",[1] is a non-religious Chinese patchwork gown which was made and worn by women in China during the Ming dynasty and Qing dynasty; it was made by using many pieces of fabric sewn together (similar to Chinese patchwork); the clothing reflected the era's tendency towards fashion novelty during the Ming dynasty.[2] [3] [4] [5]

Origins and Development

The shuitianyi is a popular, but rare fashion phenomenon, which appeared in the middle and the late Ming dynasty and remained popular in the Qing dynasty.[6] The shuitianyi may have originally originated from poor people, who would use whatever leftover clothing they would have at hand for saving purposes, and was initially only popular among poor women. Its origins may have been inspired by Buddhist robes, the Kasaya or Baina, which was made when monks would make clothes out of a variety of useless clothes. It was later adopted by aristocratic women during Ming dynasty who found it beautiful, and they began to cut cloth (even from entire brocade) voluntarily into a design shape and sew it into an aristocratic form of the shuitianyi. While the shuitianyi was a popular form of fashion for women in the Ming dynasty, men during this era would also wear baina clothing.

Other versions

Baijiayi

A version of the shuitianyi worn by children is called baijiayi.

Sanse dao beixin

See also: Chinese opera costume. In Beijing opera, the shuitianyi is worn as a costume called sanse dao beixin . It originates from Buddhist clothing and represents the ragged clothing of Buddha.[7]

The sanse dao beixin is characterized by a diamond-shaped pattern which is created through patchwork. It can be used by actors who perform as male or female monks and as Taoist characters. While both male and female roles used it; however, there are differences between the man's and woman's sanse dao beixin.

The female version looks like a knee-length pifeng as it features a centre-front opening and a collar band which ends at the mid-chest level; however, it differs from the pifeng due to the absence of sleeves.

The man's version is floor-length and the collar band has a straight lower edge; it is also tied with a sash without the back of the garment being caught in the sash, which is the manner monks wear their vest. When male monks characters wear it, it indicates that they have outstanding martial arts skills.

See also

Notes and References

  1. Web site: Theatrical robe for a female Daoist priest 18th century. 2021-12-23. www.metmuseum.org.
  2. Hanson. Marin F. 2014. "One Hundred Good Wishes Quilts": Expressions of Cross-Cultural Communication.. Uncoverings. 35. 69–89. Art Index (H.W. Wilson).
  3. Web site: Costume in the Ming Dynasty - - China Style. 2021-02-06. www.chinastyle.cn.
  4. Book: Finnane, Antonia. Changing clothes in China : fashion, history, nation. 2008. Columbia University Press. 978-0-231-14350-9. New York. 48–49. 84903948.
  5. Book: Yin, Zhihong. Proceedings of the 3rd International Conference on Art Studies: Science, Experience, Education (ICASSEE 2019) . Study on the Evolution and Development of Baina Clothing to Shuitian Clothing in the Ming and Qing Dynasties . 2019. https://www.atlantis-press.com/proceedings/icassee-19/125923415. Advances in Social Science, Education and Humanities Research. en. Atlantis Press. 368. 315–318. 10.2991/icassee-19.2019.65. 978-94-6252-837-6. free.
  6. Gao. Yingpei. 2018. Application of Patchwork Art Form in Traditional Costumes: A Case Study of Baijia Clothes. Journal of Landscape Research. 10. 98–100. ProQuest.
  7. Book: Bonds, Alexandra B. . Beijing opera costumes : the visual communication of character and culture . 2008 . University of Hawaiʻi Press . 978-1-4356-6584-2 . Honolulu . 256864936.