Satin Explained

A satin weave is a type of fabric weave that produces a characteristically glossy, smooth or lustrous material, typically with a glossy top surface and a dull back; it is not durable, as it tends to snag. It is one of three fundamental types of textile weaves alongside plain weave and twill weave.

The satin weave is characterised by four or more fill or weft yarns floating over a warp yarn, and four warp yarns floating over a single weft yarn. Floats are missed interfacings, for example where the warp yarn lies on top of the weft in a warp-faced satin. These floats explain the high lustre and even sheen, as unlike in other weaves, light is not scattered as much when hitting the fibres, resulting in a stronger reflection. Satin is usually a warp-faced weaving technique in which warp yarns are "floated" over weft yarns, although there are also weft-faced satins.^[1] If a fabric is formed with a satin weave using filament fibres such as silk, polyester or nylon, the corresponding fabric is termed a 'satin', although some definitions insist that a satin fabric is only made from silk.^[2] If the yarns used are short-staple yarns such as cotton, the fabric formed is considered a sateen.

Many variations can be made of the basic satin weave, including a granite weave and a check weave.

Satin is commonly used in clothing, for items such as lingerie, nightgowns, blouses, and evening gowns, but is also used for boxer shorts, shirts and neckties. It is also used in the production of pointe shoes for ballet. Other uses include interior furnishing fabrics, upholstery, and bed sheets.

History

China

See also: History of silk. Satin was originally made solely of silk, which, for much of history, was produced and found mainly in China.^[3] In China, there were various forms of satin fabrics which came under several names, such as (Chinese: 缎), (Chinese: 紵丝), (Chinese: 绫), (Chinese: 锦), (Chinese: 五丝) and (Chinese: 八丝).^[4] Chinese satin, in its original form, was supposed to be a five- or six-end warp satin. The six-end warp satin weave was mostly likely a derivative of the six-end warp twill weave during the Tang and Northern Song dynasty periods.

Europe

Silk satin was introduced to Europe during the 12th century. As an imported fabric, it was considerably expensive, and was worn only by the upper classes.

Etymology

The word "satin" derives its origin from the Chinese port city of Quanzhou (Chinese: 泉州), which was known as Zayton in Europe and Arab countries during the Yuan dynasty (13th–14th century).^[5] During that period, Quanzhou was visited by Arab merchants and by Europeans.^[6] The Arabs referred to silk satin imported from Quanzhou as . During the latter part of the Middle Ages, Quanzhou was a major shipping port of silk, using the Maritime Silk Road to reach Europe. It was mostly used in the Arab world.

Types of satin weave

Satin-weave fabrics are more flexible, with better draping characteristics than plain weaves. In a satin weave, the fill yarn passes over multiple warp yarns before interlacing under one warp yarn. Common satin weaves are:^[7]

• 4-harness satin weave (4HS), also called crowfoot satin, in which the fill yarn passes over three warp yarns and under one warp yarn. It is more pliable than a plain weave.
• 5-harness satin weave (5HS); the fill yarn passes over four warp yarns and then under one warp yarn.
• 8-harness satin weave (8HS), in which the fill yarn passes over seven warp yarns and then under one warp yarn, is the most pliable satin weave.

Types of satin

• Antique satin – is a type of satin-back shantung, woven with slubbed or unevenly spun weft yarns.^{[8] [9]}
• Baronet or baronette – has a cotton back and a rayon or silk front, similar to georgette.^[10]
• Charmeuse – is a lightweight, draping satin-weave fabric with a dull reverse.
• Cuttanee – fine heavy and stout silk and cotton satin
• Double face(d) – satin is woven with a glossy surface on both sides. It is possible for both sides to have a different pattern, albeit using the same colours.
• Duchess(e) satin – is a particularly luxurious, heavy, stiff satin.
• Faconne – is jacquard woven satin.^[11]
• Farmer's satin or Venetian cloth – is made from mercerised cotton.^[11]
• Gattar – is satin made with a silk warp and a cotton weft.^[12]
• Messaline – is lightweight and loosely woven.
• Polysatin or poly-satin – is an abbreviated term for polyester satin.
• Slipper satin – is stiff and medium- to heavy-weight fabric.
• Sultan – is a worsted fabric with a satin face.^[11]
• Surf satin – was a 1910s American trademark for a taffeta fabric used for swimsuits.

Uses for satin

Because of the different ways the weave is employed, satin has a range of functions from interior décor to fashion.

• Dresses: Satin's drape and shiny texture make it a favorite for evening gowns and bridal gowns.
• Upholstery: Satin was first used for ornamental furniture in Europe at the Palace of Versailles, and it is still used for pillow covers, chairs, and other forms of cushioned furniture today.
• Bed sheets: Satin is frequently used for bed linens because of its flexible and silky texture.
• Footwear: Satin is a popular fabric for shoe makers, from ballerina slippers to high heels.
• Fashion accessories: Satin is commonly used for evening bags and clutches in the fashion industry.
• Crafting: Satin in the form of ribbons are very common for crafting various products such as rosette leis, corsage, and even decorative flowers.^[13]

Bibliography

• Book: Shaeffer, Claire . Sew Any Fabric . 2003 . Krause Publications . Iola, WI . 9781440222627 .
• Book: Shaeffer, Claire . Claire Shaeffer's Fabric Sewing Guide . 2008 . Krause Publications . Cincinnati, Ohio . 978-1440223426 . registration .

Notes and References

1. Emery, Irene (1994). The Primary Structures of Fabrics. Washington, D. C. Thames and Hudson. p. 137. .
2. Chambers Twentieth Century Dictionary, 1977.
3. Book: Oxford dictionary of word origins. 2010. Julia Cresswell, Oxford University Press. 978-0-19-954793-7. Second. New York. 381. 663824301.
4. Web site: Bao. Mingxin. 1986. Early history of Satin. 2021-04-21. en.cnki.com.cn.
5. Book: Tellier, Luc-Normand (2009). Urban world history: an economic and geographical perspective. Presses de l'Université du Québec. 2009. 978-2-7605-1588-8. 221. 2010-11-28.
6. Book: James E Glevin. Oxford University Press. The Modern Middle East: A History. 21.
7. Web site: Woven fabric style guide . ACP Composites . dead . https://archive.today/20160703010930/http://www.acpsales.com/pages.php?pageid=35 . 3 July 2016.
8. Book: Young, Deborah . 2015 . Swatch Reference Guide to Fashion Fabrics . . 117 . 978-1628926569 . 25 August 2015.
9. Book: Rowe, T. . 2009 . Interior Textiles: Design and Developments . . 69 . 978-1845696870 . 25 August 2015.
10. Book: Cumming, Valerie . The dictionary of fashion history . 2010 . Berg . Oxford . 978-1847887382 . 231 . Cunnington, C.W. . Cunnington, P.E. .
11. Book: Lewandowski, Elizabeth J.. The complete costume dictionary. 2011. Scarecrow Press, Inc.. Lanham, Md.. 9780810877856. 309.
12. Book: Maitra, K.K. . Encyclopaedic dictionary of clothing and textiles . 2007 . Mittal Publications . New Delhi . 9788183242059 . 185 .
13. Web site: Jericho . 2024-01-25 . Satin Ribbon and Others: A Guide to Ribbon Types and Uses . 2024-01-26 . LikhaDito . en-US.