Princess line explained

Princess line should not be confused with coronation gown.

Princess line or princess dress describes a woman's fitted dress or other garment cut in long panels without a horizontal join or separation at the waist.^{[1] [2]} Instead of relying on darts to shape the garment, the fit is achieved with long seams (princess seams) and shaped pattern pieces.^[3] A rarely used alternative name for the princess line was French-dart-line dress.^{[4] [5]}

History

19th century

The princess line is popularly associated with Charles Frederick Worth who first introduced it in the early 1870s.^{[1] [6]} It was named in honour of the famously elegant Princess Alexandra.^{[6] [7]} By the late 1870s and early 1880s the princess dress was a popular style. It is considered one of the first "bodycon" (body-conscious) fashions due to its extremely closely fitted design, presenting the figure in a natural (or at least, corseted) form undistorted by either crinoline or bustle.^[7] Princess-line polonaises were worn over long underskirts.^[8] The princess line was also popular for young girls who wore it with a sash or, if slightly older, over a longer underskirt.^[9]

20th century

The princess line was a staple of dress design and construction throughout the century. In 1951 the couturier Christian Dior presented a princess-line based fashion collection which is sometimes called the "Princess Line", although its official name was Ligne Longue or "Long Line".^[10]

21st century

The princess line remains a popular style for wedding dresses and a design staple for both day and evening dresses.^{[1] [3]} More recently, the design principle has been applied to men's garments, which generally do not have waist seams.^[11]

See also

• Clothing terminology

Notes and References

1. Book: Delamore . Philip . The wedding dress : a sourcebook. 2005. Pavilion Books . London . 9781862057029 . 34 .
2. Book: Lewandowski. Elizabeth J.. The complete costume dictionary . 2011 . Scarecrow Press, Inc. . Lanham, Md. . 9780810840041 . 238 .
3. Book: Camp. Carole Ann. Teach yourself visually fashion sewing. 2011. Wiley Pub.. Hoboken, N.J. . 9780470881316 . 230 .
4. Book: Farmer . Bonnita M. . Gotwals . Lois M. . Concepts of fit : an individualized approach to pattern design . 1982 . Macmillan . New York . 9780023362606 . 199 .
5. Book: Shelden. Martha Gene. Design through draping. 1974. Burgess Pub. Co.. USA. 35. 9780808719069.
6. Book: Reeder. Jan Glier. High style : masterworks from the Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection at the Metropolitan Museum of Art . 2010 . Metropolitan Museum of Art . New York . 9781588393623 . 41 .
7. Book: Fukai. Akiko. Fashion : the collection of the Kyoto Costume Institute : a history from the 18th to the 20th century . 2002 . . Köln [etc.] . 9783822812068 . 246 .
8. Book: Stamper . Anita . Condra . Jill . Clothing through American History the Civil War through the Gilded Age, 1861-1899. . 2010 . ABC-CLIO . Santa Barbara. 9780313084584. 271.
9. Book: Ashelford . Jane . The Art of Dress Clothes and Society, 1500-1914.. 2009. Gardners Books . London . 9781905400799 . 283 . [New ed.?] .
10. Book: Marly . Diana de . Christian Dior. 1990. B.T. Batsford . London . 9780713464535 . 45 . For the autumn 1951 Dior announced his Long Line, [...] The main cut for dresses was the princess line, Worth's invention to avoid waistlines....
11. Book: Kim . Myoung . Kim . Injoo . Patternmaking for menswear : classic to contemporary.. 2014. Fairchild Books & Visuals . New York . 9781609019440 . 197 .