is a powder foundation traditionally used by kabuki actors, geisha and their apprentices. The word is written with kanji meaning "white powder", and is pronounced as the word for white with the honorific prefix .
When worn by geisha and, is notable for only partially covering the nape of the neck, as an uncovered nape was traditionally considered erotic in Japanese culture.[1]
is traditionally applied over a base of two types of wax used as a primer: is applied to the eyebrows, whereas (facial wax) is applied to cover the rest of the face and the neck. The upper portion of back is also covered if the wearer will be dressed in a ("trailing skirt") kimono, where the upper half of the neck will be visible.
The is mixed with water before being applied with a wide, flat brush over the neck, face and back. The must be mixed carefully with water to achieve the right consistency, and can be difficult to achieve, as that has too much moisture will not apply smoothly to the face, and that has too little will crack and potentially fall off when worn.
is painted straight over the eyebrows, with the providing a smooth surface over the eyebrows to be painted over. The face is then powdered with rice powder, before the details around the eyes, eyebrows and mouth are drawn in.
For both geisha and, application of varies by occasion, use, and sometimes region.
Both geisha and wear on the face and neck, but application on the back of the neck differs per occasion. For most situations, a pattern known as is worn, forming two triangular stripes of unpainted skin from the nape of the neck downward. For formal occasions, a three-stripe pattern known as is used.
can be painted freehand with a smaller brush, but is generally painted using a stencil.[2] Both geisha and, whilst aiming for a white-faced appearance, do not use a heavy application of unless worn for special performances, instead blending the foundation into the skin with the use of a blusher, known as .
For geisha and, application of varies depending on age, status and region. Since the application of can prove challenging, a younger may have her ("mother" – typically the mother of the geisha house) or her "older sister" geisha mentor apply it for her at first.
Younger apprentices may, in some regions, wear only and blusher at the beginning of their apprenticeship to mark their inexperience, with the addition of black and red eyeliner at a later stage. Likewise, senior geisha tend not to wear any blusher, and wear on fewer occasions over time, eventually wearing it only for special occasions and stage performances.
The style of how a wears may also vary depending on the region of Japan an apprentice works in; in some districts, apprentices may only wear a light application of, whereas in others, a heavier application is more common. Makeup styles may also vary in their use of blusher, red eyeliner and black eyeliner; this typically depends on both the inclinations of the mother of the house, and the general style of the geisha district.
In contrast to geisha and, kabuki actors apply their thickly, creating a bright white face visible from the furthest seats in the audience. A kabuki actor doing a quick change between characters may simply paint over their previous makeup, as is opaque enough that previous makeup will not be visible.
was used as base makeup before foundation was adopted in Japan. However, once foundation became commonplace, some began to use it over foundation as a loose powder or as a pressed powder for touch-ups.
In the past, the type of used contained white lead, and would eventually give the wearer lead poisoning.[3] The use of white lead in makeup was outlawed in Japan in 1934.