Tracta (dough) explained

Tracta, tractum (Greek, Ancient (to 1453);: τρακτὸς, τρακτόν), also called laganon, laganum, or lagana was a kind of drawn out or rolled-out pastry dough in Roman[1] and Greek cuisines.

What exactly it was is unclear:[2] "Latin tracta... appears to be a kind of pastry. It is hard to be sure, because its making is never described fully";[3] and it may have meant different things at different periods.[3] Laganon/laganum was at different periods an unleavened bread, a pancake, or later, perhaps a sort of pasta.[4]

Tracta is mentioned in the Apicius as a thickener for liquids. Vehling's translation of Apicius glosses it as "a piece of pastry, a round bread or roll in this case, stale, best suited for this purpose."[5] Perry compares it to a "ship's biscuit".[6]

It is also mentioned in Cato the Elder's recipe for placenta cake, layered with cheese.[7]

Athenaeus's Deipnosophistae mentions a kind of cake called, "known as ", which uses a bread dough, but is baked differently.[8]

Some writers connect it to modern Italian lasagne,[9] of which it is the etymon,[10] but most authors deny that it was pasta.[6] [11]

There is a modern Greek leavened flatbread called lagana, but it is not clear when the name was first applied to a leavened bread.

Notes and References

  1. https://www.perseus.tufts.edu/hopper/text?doc=Perseus%3Atext%3A1999.04.0057%3Aentry%3Dtrakto\s τρακτὸς, τρακτόν
  2. Charles Perry, "What was tracta?", Petits Propos Culinaires 12:37-9 (1982) and a note in 14
  3. [Andrew Dalby]
  4. [Andrew Dalby]
  5. Joseph Dommers Vehling, editor and translator, Cookery and dining in imperial Rome (1936, reprinted 1977), p. 127
  6. Charles Perry, "Old Non-Pasta", Los Angeles Times March 05, 1997
  7. Web site: De Agricultura. Cato the Elder., section 76
  8. [Athenaeus]
  9. Book: Pasta: The Story of a Universal Food. Silvano . Serventi . Françoise . Sabban . Columbia University Press . Aug 13, 2013 . 15–18. 9780231519441.
  10. Vocabolario Etimologico Pianigiani, 1907, s.v. lasagna
  11. http://www.cliffordawright.com/history/mac_print.html Clifford A. Wright, "The History of Macaroni"