Kumihimo Explained

is a traditional Japanese artform and craftwork for making braids and cords.^[1] In the past, kumihimo decorations were used as accessories for kimono as well as samurai armor.^[2] Japanese Braiding, as is sometimes known in English, is also associated with Shinto rituals and religious services. Literally meaning "gathered threads", are made by interlacing reels of yarn, commonly silk, with the use of traditional, specialised looms – either a or a (also known as a).

There are a number of different styles of weaving, which variously create a braided cord ranging from very flat to almost entirely rounded. cords are used as, cords worn belted around the front of some when wearing kimono.

History

was introduced to Japan from China via the Korean peninsula around 700 AD.^{[3] [4]} When the art first arrived in Japan, it was used to decorate Buddhist scrolls and other votive items. The city of Nara emerged as a centre of cultural and artistic exchange and became the point of introductory of to Japan.^[5]

braids were first created by using fingerloop braiding to weave different yarns together. Later, tools such as the and the were developed, allowing more complex braids to be woven in a shorter amount of time.

In the present day, modern variations of weaving discs exist, typically made of firm, dense foam with (typically) 32 notches around the edge, creating the tension necessary for weaving . These discs are considered to be a more affordable and portable alternative to a traditional, with many different sizes and shapes of disc available for purchase.

However, a modern foam disc is considered less versatile than a traditional . A traditional allows the weaver to use as many yarns of as many thicknesses as desired, and to create braids which are flat, four sided, or hollow. A foam disc constrains the weaver to no more than 32 yarns that must not be thicker than the notch allows, and does not enable the creation of flat braids. To make a flat braid a separate rectangular or square "disc" must be made or purchased.

The most prominent historical use of was by samurai, as a functional and decorative way to lace their lamellar armour and their horses' armor (barding). cords are now used as ties on jackets and as, used to hold some knots in place or to decorate the when wearing kimono.

Modern Kumihimo: the 20th and 21st centuries

Japanese braiding is being used in other areas in addition to its traditional uses, and has been taken up by arts and craft communities outside of Japan.^[6] Kumihimo has gained in popularity outside of Japan, with an increasing number of beginner books available in languages other than Japanese.^{[7] [8] [9] [10] [11]} There is also a Journal of the American Kumihimo Society.^[12]

In contrast to the interest in Japanese braiding as a craft for all, the city of Columbus, Georgia, USA commissioned Junichi Arai (1932-2017) to create a permanent 12 x 9 metre metallic fibre artwork consisting of 200 stainless steel braidings that produced kinetic waves. Arai is considered an important innovator who raised textiles from craft to art. Akiko Moriyama describes him thus: "Arai embodies everything about Japanese textiles, from the challenges to the possibilities." Arai's installation opened at for the River Center for Performing Arts in 2003.

Types

The three prominent types of are,, and .

Related terms

• – the top braiding surface on a ; Japanese for "mirror".
• – a class of patterns for round cord all involving eight threads folded in half for a total of sixteen strands. In clockwise order, each bobbin is moved to the opposite side. When different combinations of thread color are used, many interesting patterns emerge, including diagonal stripes, diamonds on a background, triangles resembling hearts, and tiny six-petalled flowers.
• or – the frame for the braiding; Japanese for "round stand".
• , decorative cords used to decorate objects such as envelopes.
• – the broad cloth sash used in traditional dress; a belt, called the, is tied around the .
• – a is a large, rectangular frame for creating flat, oblique braids.
• – bobbins. The thread is kept from unwinding by passing the thread under itself, forming a loop around the . True silk is a hollow fiber with a rough surface that resists slipping past the loop unless gently pulled. For synthetic fibers, a flexible plastic "clamshell" bobbin may be preferable.

See also

• Braiding
  • Chinese knotting Chinese button knot
• Frog (fastening)
• Macramé
  • • • • • Spool knitting

External links

• • Talzhemir's introductory handouts, in .PDF format, including Kongo Gumi and a pattern for a notched cardboard wheel
• Instructions with diagrams
• Eight strand hollow braid over a core

Notes and References

1. Kinoshita . Masako . 1986 . A Braiding Technique Documented in an Early Nineteenth-Century Japanese Treatise" Soshun Bik‾". . Textile Museum Journal . 25 . 47–65 . EBSCOhost Art & Architecture Source.
2. Book: Duffy, Vincent G. . Digital Human Modeling: Applications in Health, Safety, Ergonomics and Risk Management: 7th International Conference, DHM 2016, Held as Part of HCI International 2016, Toronto, ON, Canada, July 17-22, 2016, Proceedings . 2016-07-04 . Springer . 978-3-319-40247-5 . 132–133 . en.
3. Web site: "Kumihimo": Intricate and Highly Functional Braided Cords from Japan That Continue to Evolve in the Present Day . 29 January 2024 . Web Japan.
4. Web site: Connecting the Atlantic and the Indo-Pacific Events . 2024-01-29 . JAPAN HOUSE (Los Angeles) . en.
5. Web site: The Origins of Kumihimo: Talk by Mita Kakuyuki . 2024-01-29 . Japan House London . en-US.
6. Book: Moriyama, Akiko . Japanese Textile Culture in A Companion to Textile Culture . 2020 . John Wiley & Sons, Inc. . 978-1-118-76860-0 . Harris . Jennifer . Wiley-Blackwell companions to art history . Hoboken, NJ . 353-370.
7. Book: Carey, Jacqui . Creative Kumihimo . 1994 . Carey Co . 978-0-9523225-0-4 . Ottery St. Mary . ocm31936680.
8. Book: Das große Kumihimo-Buch: japanische Flechtkunst; [mit 8 Schablonen für den runden Mobidai] . 2014 . Frech . 978-3-7724-5660-2 . Schwarz . Miriam . 4. Aufl . TOPP . Stuttgart . Schwarz . Roswitha.
9. Book: Kemp, Beth . Twist, turn & tie: 50 Japanese kumihimo braids . 2014 . Barron's Educational Series, Inc . 978-0-7641-6643-3 . First edition for North America . Hauppauge, New York . 872279591.
10. Book: Delage-Calvet . Agnès . Bracelets kumihimo: techniques des bracelets japonais et modèles . Boutin . Richard . 2015 . Marabout . 978-2-501-10094-6 . Paris.
11. Book: Carey, Jacqui . Beginner's guide to Japanese braiding: the art of kumihimo . 2019 . Search Press Limited . 978-1-78221-805-0 . Search Press classics . Kent, UK . on1142683213.
12. Hardy . Beth . Benner . Carol . Haushalter-Oliver . Carolyn . Mutter . Debbie . Shirashi . Diana . Imperia . Giovanna . Pigot . Jan . Peterson . Jane . Johansen . Katia . Tada . Makiko . Jeppesen . Margaret . Tada . Masumi . Nielson . Rosalie . Berlin . Shirley . Guang . Yin . 2020 . Gaskell . Adrienne . Buenger . Katherine . Gathering Threads . Journal of the North American Kumihimo Society.