Gull egg explained

Gull eggs, gathered in spring from the nests of wild gulls, are a source or form of eggs as food. Gulls' eggs tend to have speckled shells (which somewhat camouflages them in the landscape),[1] a flavor variously described as fishy or salty that is reminiscent of the birds' marine environment, an especially white or even opalescent albumen when cooked,[2] and almost-red orange yolks.[3] Gull eggs are usually (but not always) larger than any size of chicken egg; for example, a herring-gull egg typically weighs about .[4] One source states that a generalized gull's egg is approximately twice the size of a chicken's egg.[5]

Egging is the prehistoric practice of foraging wild-bird eggs.[6] [7] [8] Gull egging is practiced (to varying degrees) in several subarctic regions, including in Canada, Denmark's Faroe Islands and Greenland, Finland's Åland, Iceland, Norway, Russia (by indigenous minorities of the north), the United Kingdom, and the United States' Alaska.[9] Gull eggs are collected from a number of species in the family Laridae, including the black-headed gull, glaucous gull, glaucous-winged gull, the great black-backed gull,[10] Heermann's gull, the various subspecies of herring gull, the laughing gull,[11] the lesser black-backed gull, Sabine's gull, the short-billed gull,[12] and the western gull.[13] Per one pair of zoologists, "Gull eggs are a readily renewable resource in that clutches that are destroyed are replaced." However, this egg production is not without energy demands on individual birds, and thus flocks, and can ultimately affect species-level survival.[14] Gull eggs are also considered "excellent bioindicators of environmental pollution".[15] Toxicologists and public-health agencies recommend that children and pregnant or nursing women avoid eating gull eggs.[16]

Increased egg production by domestic poultry and wild egging have often filled the hungry gap of early spring. In baking, gull eggs are said to increase the airiness of cakes (compared to chicken eggs used in the same way), and to make a "smashing meringue". In some human communities with large populations of fisherfolk, the relationship between egging human and nesting gulls may be considered to be mutualistic, in that humans nourish the gull population with a steady supply of fish guts in exchange for access to occasional or seasonal eggs.[17]

Europe

British Isles

Gull eggs have long been collected in some quantity in the British Isles and are considered to be a seasonal delicacy in Great Britain.[18] [19] Wild seabird eggs were once taken all along the English Channel.[20] Gull eggs were sometimes used to supplement domestic chicken flocks (Gallus gallus domesticus): when broody hens were determined to incubate and hatch their own eggs—which would eventually allow for the perpetuation of the flock if a cock had recently been present—householders could instead collect wild gulls' eggs. British farmers would also harvest gull eggs to both reduce the populations of gulls they considered pestilential and for use as nitrogen and calcium-rich fertilizer for their fields. One account has it that in primeval times, the first clutches were all smashed in a day, prompting the gull colony to lay again en masse, so that harvesters could return within a week and be guaranteed of fresh eggs. According to a 1906 account, after gull nesting began in March, the first two clutches laid in the fens and salt marshes of England were taken for consumption or sale, and the third clutch was left untouched for the gull hen to set, "elsewise she and her kind would never set foot in the marsh again."[21] In May 1912, two young men in Fife, Scotland, were charged with illegally possessing seven eider duck (genus Somateria) eggs, in violation of the 1880 Wild Birds' Protection Order (43 & 44 Vict. c. 35). The men also had, at the time of their arrest, perfectly legal possession of 654 gull eggs.[22] Two decades later a letter to a Scottish newspaper described gull egging on a loch; eggs were "lifted from their dangerously placed nests by means of a table spoon attached to a long pole."[23]

During World War I, the government of the UK recommended collecting gull eggs as a supplement to limited supplies of hen's eggs. The official suggestion was that the eggs be boiled and "eaten cold".[24] The government also issued Food Production Leaflet No. 30, which offered "special guidance for collecting gull eggs".[25] On the World War II homefront, when chicken eggs were again in short supply in the United Kingdom (due to food rationing), wild-harvested gull eggs became a popular substitute.[26] The visually similar eggs of the black-headed gull (Chroicocephalus ridibundus) had long been used as a fraudulent counterfeit for luxury plover eggs[27] (although there were ongoing debates about distinctions in flavor), and thus gull-egg market networks were already in place, such as the 20,000 gull eggs taken annually from Scoulton Mere in Norfolk.[28] [29] [30] Immediately after the end of World War II, Rupert Baring, 4th Baron Revelstoke sold over 100,000 gull eggs a year to British city dwellers. In 1948, some 50,000 gull eggs were harvested from the Colne Estuary's Rat Island and shipped to market in London, leaving the island's gull hens to sit on just 13 eggs in five nests.[31]

Gull egging is now strictly regulated in the United Kingdom, although gull-egg piracy has been documented, including at Holmfirth, West Yorkshire,[32] Poole Harbour, Dorset,[33] and on the Copeland Islands off Northern Ireland.[34] There are fewer than 100 licensed gull eggers in the UK, and only licensed eggers are permitted to collect a limited number of gull eggs from a limited number of sites for a limited number of days.[35] [36] Since the mid-20th century the London market for wild bird eggs has largely been filled by the eggs of the black-headed gull, in large part because the market is haunted by the ghost of plover's eggs.[37] Black-headed gulls' eggs have long been collected off the marshlands of Northumberland.[38] In the 2000s decade, some 10,000 gull eggs were taken annually from a property in the Scottish Borders. Harvesting gull eggs on the Solent is said to benefit Sandwich terns (Thalasseus sandvicensis) that would otherwise suffer from predation and defensive behaviors by nesting gulls; removing the gull eggs prompts replacement laying behaviors and postpones anti-tern antics for three crucial weeks.[39]

In 1997, there were 35 licensed collectors who provided 54,000 gull eggs for the UK market. In 2016, there were but 18 licensed gull eggers, and a single legally acquired black-headed gull egg went for as much as .[40] In 2023, it was reported that over 160,000 black-headed gull eggs had been collected under licence since 2019, leading conservation organizations such as the Royal Society for the Protection of Birds (RSPB) and the Yorkshire Wildlife Trust to call for an end to gull egging,[41] citing instances when Mediterranean gull (Ichthyaetus melanocephalus) eggs were taken illegally from the Poole Harbour gullery by unlicensed egg collectors. Mediterranean gulls and black-headed gulls look much alike, but the rarer Mediterranean gulls are on the RSPB's Amber List, indicating there is concern about their local conservation status.[42] [43] Similarly, Science & Advice for Scottish Agriculture (SASA) notes that oystercatcher (genus Haematopus) nests may superficially resemble gull nests, but outlines some visible differences and reminds householders that moving or destroying oystercatcher nests and/or eggs is illegal.[44]

A black-headed gull's egg is the size of a bantam hen's egg. When purchased "in bulk", 20 black-headed gull eggs are roughly equivalent in food volume to a dozen standard chicken eggs. London restaurants and gentleman's clubs frequently serve gull eggs soft-boiled, seasoned with celery salt or paired with the spring vegetable asparagus.[45] [46] Circa 1971,, an economist and former chairman of the American Audubon Society, wrote that the taste of London-restaurant gull eggs was unremarkable except for a faintly oily quality. In 1993, British chef and food writer Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall found gulls' eggs to be more or less undistinguished in flavor compared to ordinary chicken eggs. He did, however, find them visually pleasing and enhanced by the "indubitable aphrodisiac of price".

Scandinavia

Notes and References

  1. Web site: Nu . Jennifer . 22 March 2018 . Spring Traditions – Yukon Wild Bird Egg Harvest . 2023-05-27 . live . https://web.archive.org/web/20190531063106/https://ediblealaska.ediblecommunities.com/things-do/spring-traditions-yukon-wild-bird-egg-harvest . 2019-05-31 . Edible Alaska . en-us.
  2. News: Boker-Jones . L. . 16 September 1943 . Solving the Egg Problem . 3 . Good Morning . 130 . 2023-05-26 . British Newspaper Archive. en-gb.
  3. Book: Grumezescu . Alexandru Mihai . Role of Materials Science in Food Bioengineering . Holban . Alina Maria . 29 March 2018 . Academic Press . 978-0-12-811500-8 . 507 . en.
  4. News: Gordon . Seton . 24 May 1947 . Town and Country in Eire . 7 . Midlothian, Scotland . 2023-05-27 . British Newspaper Archive. en.
  5. News: Burke . Helen Lucy . 24 May 1987 . Just plain gullible . 16 . Sunday Tribune . Colour Tribune . Dublin, Ireland . 2023-05-26 . British Newspaper Archive. en.
  6. News: Barnes . Irston R. . 21 July 1971 . Gulls' eggs recall days of the plover . 52 . The Tampa Times . Washington Post Special . 2023-05-27 . "The practice of eating the eggs of colony seabirds goes back to prehistoric times." . en. Newspapers.com.
  7. 59893. The action of collecting (wild fowls') eggs; also attributive..
  8. Hoffman . Brian W. . 1990 . Bird Netting, Cliff-Hanging, and Egg Gathering: Traditional Procurement Strategies on Nunivak Island . Arctic Anthropology . 27 . 1 . 66–74 . 40316197 . 0066-6939.
  9. CAFF Circumpolar Seabird Group: Seabird Harvest in the Arctic . September 2008 . Conservation of Arctic Flora and Fauna (CAFF) . Technical Report No. 16 . Akureyri, Iceland . 36 (Finland ban), 43 (Greenland), 51 (Iceland), 59 (Svalbard) . en.
  10. News: n.a. . 24 May 1918 . Sea Birds' Eggs as Food . 4 . Linlithgowshire Gazette . West Lothian, Scotland . 2023-05-25 . British Newspaper Archive. en.
  11. News: n.a. . 3 June 1990 . Fishermen Detained in Looting of Eggs of Endangered Birds . en-US . The New York Times . Associated Press . 2023-05-28 . 0362-4331.
  12. Web site: Subsistence Bird and Egg Harvest Estimates: Alaska Migratory Bird Co-Management Council . 2023-05-27 . Alaska Department of Fish and Game (adfg.alaska.gov) . en-us.
  13. Ray . Milton S. . October 1904 . A Fortnight on the Farallones . The Auk . 21 . 4 . 425–442 . 10.2307/4070132. 4070132 . en.
  14. Wood . Philippa J. . Hudson . Malcolm D. . Doncaster . C. Patrick . 1 January 2009 . Impact of egg harvesting on breeding success of black-headed gulls, Larus ridibundus . Acta Oecologica . 35 . 1 . 83–93 . 10.1016/j.actao.2008.08.006 . 2009AcO....35...83W . 1146-609X . Harvested sites were characterised by reductions in egg volume, yolk-to-albumen ratio and eggshell thickness, which translated to poorer hatching success and chick survival.. en.
  15. Colomer-Vidal . Pere . Bertolero . Albert . Alcaraz . Carles . Garreta-Lara . Elba . Santos . Francisco Javier . Lacorte . Silvia . 15 January 2022 . Distribution and ten-year temporal trends (2009–2018) of perfluoroalkyl substances in gull eggs from Spanish breeding colonies . Environmental Pollution . 293 . 118555 . 10.1016/j.envpol.2021.118555 . 34808307 . 2022EPoll.29318555C . 244450476 . 0269-7491. en. 10261/257577 . free .
  16. Pusch . Kerstin . Schlabach . Martin . Prinzinger . Roland . Wing Gabrielsen . Geir . 2005 . Gull eggs—food of high organic pollutant content? . Journal of Environmental Monitoring . 7 . 6 . 635–639 . 10.1039/b501879j . 15931427 . 1464-0325. en.
  17. Web site: Hestenes . Sunniva Grimstad . Budalen . Andreas . 22 May 2023 . Butikkene selger måseegg fra rødlistet fugleart . The shops sell seagull eggs from red-listed bird species . live . https://web.archive.org/web/20230522222555/https://www.nrk.no/nordland/butikkene-selger-maseegg-fra-rodlistet-fugleart-1.16404350 . 22 May 2023 . 2023-05-27 . NRK . nb-NO.
  18. Book: Dorling Kindersley Ltd. . The Illustrated Cook's Book of Ingredients: 2,500 of the World's Best with Classic Recipes . 18 October 2010 . Penguin . 978-0-7566-7673-5 . 367 . Google Books. en.
  19. News: Apple . R. W. Jr. . R. W. Apple Jr. . 5 October 2005 . Prowling London for Perfect English . en-US . F1 . The New York Times . 2023-05-28 . 0362-4331 . ...the big draws are long-established favorites like gull's eggs..
  20. News: Fearnley-Whittingstall . Hugh . Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall . 9 May 1993 . Shelling out for an egg in the hand . en . 17 . Sunday Telegraph . 1667 . Review . London . 2023-05-27 . 9976-1874 . Newspapers.com.
  21. News: n.a. . The Altus Weekly News. 16 April 1906 . 3. Newspapers.com . Sea Gulls' Eggs: They Are Good to Eat and Taste Like Plovers' Eggs . 2023-05-27 . en.
  22. News: n.a. . Raid on Eggs. 15 May 1915 . 5 . St. Andrew's Citizen . 2023-05-26 . British Newspaper Archive . en.
  23. News: Courtland . Adolphus . 5 May 1933 . Sea-Gull Egging . 11 . The Scotsman . 2023-05-26 . British Newspaper Archive. en.
  24. News: n.a. . 18 May 1918 . Bon-Accord Gossip . en . 7 . Aberdeen Evening Express . Aberdeenshire, Scotland . 2023-05-26 . This is not intended to 'gull' you. A couple of gulls' eggs formed quite a palatable accompaniment to my tea last night. The Ministry of Food recommend that these seabirds' eggs should collected to supplement the supply of hens' eggs. Gulls' eggs should be hard boiled and eaten cold. . British Newspaper Archive.
  25. Milton. Frederick Stephen. 'Pursued steadily, quietly, unfalteringly': The Work of Wild Bird Protectionists in Britain during World War One.. Environment and History. 25. 2. May 2019. 153–184. Gale Academic OneFile . 2023-06-02 . 10.3197/096734018X15217309861568. 90351821 .
  26. Book: Hollins, Seren Charrington . Revolting Recipes From History . 31 January 2023 . Pen and Sword History . 978-1-5267-7305-0 . 173. Google Books. en.
  27. Book: Nature Lover . 1923 . John Bale, Sons & Danielsson . 16 . en . Google Books.
  28. Book: Taylor, John Ellor . Half-hours in the Green Lanes: A Book for a Country Stroll . 1884 . W.H. Allen & Company . 126–128 . Google Books. en.
  29. Millard . F.W. . 6 April 1907 . Plover-Egging . Illustrated Sporting & Dramatic News . George S. Maddick.. en.
  30. News: n.a. . 16 March 1941 . ABOUT Eggs, About Cold, About Feathers . en-US . M2 . The New York Times . Section 7: The New York Times Magazine . 2023-05-28 . 0362-4331.
  31. News: n.a. . Cafes get 50,000 gull eggs . 21 June 1948 . Daily Herald . London, England . 3 . 2023-05-26 . British Newspaper Archive. en.
  32. Web site: 2021-02-24 . Man admits to stealing 200 wild bird eggs . live . https://web.archive.org/web/20210225090235/https://www.birdguides.com/news/man-admits-to-stealing-200-wild-bird-eggs/ . 2021-02-25 . 2023-06-04 . BirdGuides . en.
  33. Web site: 2016-05-17 . Illegal egging devastates Poole Harbour gull colony . live . https://web.archive.org/web/20220529030920/https://www.birdguides.com/news/illegal-egging-devastates-poole-harbour-gull-colony/ . 2022-05-29 . 2023-06-04 . BirdGuides . en.
  34. News: n.a. . 9 May 2008 . Gull eggs stolen for restaurants . en-GB . BBC News . live . 2023-05-28 . https://web.archive.org/web/20170511095436/http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/uk_news/northern_ireland/7391792.stm . 2017-05-11.
  35. Web site: Patel . Amit . 30 March 2019 . Gull's Eggs: A Chef's Guide to Black-Headed Gull Eggs . First Choice Produce . 2023-05-27 . live . https://web.archive.org/web/20230131211119/https://www.firstchoiceproduce.com/blog/gulls-eggs-a-chefs-guide/ . 2023-01-31 . en-GB.
  36. Web site: Liddell . Vicky . 24 March 2016 . Delicacy: black-headed gulls' eggs . live . https://web.archive.org/web/20230602175601/https://www.countrylife.co.uk/food-drink/delicacy-black-headed-gulls-eggs-84813 . 2023-06-02 . 2023-06-01 . Country Life . London . 0045-8856.
  37. Morton . Charles W. . October 1955 . Accent on Living . live . The Atlantic . 98–99 . 1072-7825 . https://web.archive.org/web/20221004102951/https://www.theatlantic.com/magazine/archive/1955/10/accent-on-living/642266/ . 2022-10-04 . 2023-06-01 . At any rate, plover's eggs have been succeeded in England by gull eggs; if the hosts are really laving themselves out on the meal, the chances are that it will begin with gull eggs, hard-boiled, served cold, in the shell, with mayonnaise..
  38. News: Evening Standard. London . 14 April 1992 . 39. Newspapers.com . Foodie file: Gentlemen prefer gulls . 2023-05-27 . Denise . McQuillan. en.
  39. News: Beardsall . Jonny . 24 April 1997 . Your three-egg starter for £10 . en . 42 . The Daily Telegraph . 2023-05-27 . 0307-1235 . Newspapers.com.
  40. Web site: Dean . Jon . 5 September 2016 . Hundreds of thousands of SEAGULL EGGS are being taken for an unexpected reason . live . https://web.archive.org/web/20160905102934/http://www.mirror.co.uk/news/weird-news/hundreds-thousands-seagull-eggs-taken-8769371 . 2016-09-05 . 2023-05-27 . The Daily Mirror . en . 0307-0204 . 223228477.
  41. News: Wilson . Phoebe . 2023-05-03 . Collecting 'gourmet' eggs from black-headed gulls should be banned, says RSPB . en-uk . The Guardian . Age of Extinction . London . live . 2023-06-04 . https://web.archive.org/web/20230530182211/https://www.theguardian.com/environment/2023/may/03/ban-taking-threatened-black-headed-gull-eggs-for-uk-diners-says-rspb . 2023-05-30 . 1756-3224.
  42. Web site: 29 May 2019 . Illegal sale of Mediterranean Gull eggs potentially puts restaurants at risk . live . https://web.archive.org/web/20230604142215/https://www.birdsofpooleharbour.co.uk/949-2/ . 2023-06-04 . 2023-06-04 . Birds of Poole Harbour.
  43. Web site: 2017 . Endangered Birds: Red, Amber and Green Explained . live . https://web.archive.org/web/20230523122201/https://www.rspb.org.uk/birds-and-wildlife/wildlife-guides/uk-conservation-status-explained/ . 2023-05-23 . 2023-06-04 . The RSPB . en-GB.
  44. Web site: Be Aware of Oystercatchers! . live . https://web.archive.org/web/20230110184416/https://www.sasa.gov.uk/sites/default/files/BE%20AWARE%20OF%20OYSTERCATCHERS%20-%20guidance%202017.pdf . 2023-01-10 . 2023-05-04 . sasa.gov.uk.
  45. Book: Roux, Michel . Eggs: The Essential Guide to Cooking with Eggs, Over 120 Recipes . Quadrille/Hardie Grant Publishing . 2005 . 978-1-78713-284-9 . London . 5 . en-uk . Michel Roux.
  46. Whitley . John . 2008-05-21 . Eggs of the Gull . live . Saveur . en . 1075-7864 . https://web.archive.org/web/20230128064348/https://www.saveur.com/article/Kitchen/Eggs-of-the-Gull/ . 2023-01-28 . 2023-06-02.

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