First ascent explained

In mountaineering and climbing, a first ascent (abbreviated to FA in guide books), is the first successful documented climb to the top of a mountain or the top of a particular climbing route. Early 20th-century mountaineers and climbers focused on reaching the tops of iconic mountains (e.g. the eight-thousanders) and climbing routes (e.g. the great north faces of the Alps) by whatever means possible, often using considerable amounts of aid climbing, and/or with large expedition style support teams that laid "siege" to the climb.

As all the key tops were summited, the manner in which each top was reached became important, particularly the ability to complete the ascent without artificial aid, which is called free climbing. In free climbing, the term first free ascent (abbreviated FFA) is used where a mountain or climbing route is ascended without any artificial aid (devices for protection in the event of a fall could be used as long as they did not aid progression). Completing the FFA of a climbing route is often called freeing (or more latterly sending) a route.

As the sport of climbing developed, additional types of ascent became notable and chronicled in guidebooks and journals. In mountaineering, and alpine climbing in particular, the first winter ascent is recorded, given the significantly greater difficulty. The first solo ascent is also commonly noted, although the first free solo ascent is a more controversial aspect, given the concerns about advocating such a dangerous form of climbing. With the rise in female participation in climbing, the first female free ascent (or FFFA) has also become notable.

In mountaineering and alpinism

As mountaineering developed in the 20th century, the attainment of a summit by almost any means was replaced by ascents that reflected the style used and the conditions faced. In 2008, the most prestigious annual prize in mountaineering, the Piolet d'Or, amended its focus to small light-weight alpine-style teams using no form of aid or support, rather than on large expedition-style teams using "siege" techniques.

The most notable types of mountaineering first ascents that are chronicled are:

In rock climbing

In rock climbing, the manner in which the first free ascent was achieved became important to chronicle by climbing journals and magazines. The key differentiators were the style on which the route was free climbed (e.g. traditional climbing, sport climbing, or free solo climbing), whether the free climb was done on the first attempt (e.g. onsighted), and whether the climber had prior information (e.g. beta) on that first attempt.

The most notable types of rock climbing first ascents that are chronicled are:

Gender

Notable disputes

There have been notable disputes over claims of a first ascent (or first free ascent), for various reasons (disputes over the style employed, issues with verifiability, accusations of bad faith and fraud), and the most notable are where a new grade milestone and/or major advancement in difficulty is being proposed:[21]

Mountaineering

Rock climbing

See also

References

Further reading

External links

Notes and References

  1. Web site: . Climbers Make History Making First Winter Ascent of Pakistan's 'Killer Mountain'. Andrew . Bisharat . 27 February 2016 . 8 February 2023 . 10 February 2023 . https://web.archive.org/web/20230210084226/https://www.nationalgeographic.com/adventure/article/absolute-misery-climbers-complete-the-historic-first-winter-ascent-of-nanga-parbat-the-killer-mountain . dead .
  2. Web site: . Peter . Beaumont . 6 January 2021 . 9 February 2023 . Nepalese team makes first successful winter ascent of K2 . 10 February 2023 . https://web.archive.org/web/20230210083843/https://www.theguardian.com/world/2021/jan/16/nepalese-team-makes-first-successful-winter-ascent-of-k2 . live .
  3. . Bernadette McDonald . Bernadette . McDonald . Piolets d'Or: A Short History of the Golden Ice Axe . 2017 . 2 January 2023 . 72 . 19 February 2022 . https://web.archive.org/web/20220219154800/https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/72/9/piolets-dor/ . live .
  4. Web site: . Highlights from the 23rd Piolets d'Or . 14 April 2015 . 1 January 2023 . Menno . Boermans . The Piolets d'Or (Golden Ice Axes) were long considered to be the 'Oscars of Mountaineering' . 1 January 2023 . https://web.archive.org/web/20230101161833/http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web15s/newswire-23rd-piolets-d-or-highlights . live .
  5. News: Levy. Michael. 2021-11-29. A Climbing Award That May Be a Winner's Last. en-US. The New York Times. 2021-11-30. 0362-4331. 2021-11-30. https://web.archive.org/web/20211130012050/https://www.nytimes.com/2021/11/29/sports/piolet-dor-climbing.html. live.
  6. Web site: . Victors of the Unwinnable . 1 July 2006 . 2 January 2023 . Ian . Parnell . 13 January 2020 . https://web.archive.org/web/20200113075736/http://www.alpinist.com/doc/ALP16/unwinnable-parnell . live .
  7. Book: Twight, Mark . Kiss Or Kill: Confessions of a Serial Climber . Mark Twight . 2001 . 978-0898867633 . Mountaineering Books . My Way: A Short Talk with Tomo Cesen . 63–74 . 10 January 2023 . 10 February 2023 . https://web.archive.org/web/20230210011146/https://books.google.com/books?id=N7N-0rq_f8YC . live .
  8. Web site: PlanetMountain.com . The evolution of free climbing . 23 December 2012 . Maurizio . Oviglia . 4 January 2022 . 4 January 2022 . https://web.archive.org/web/20220104131608/https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/the-evolution-of-free-climbing.html . live .
  9. Web site: PlanetMountain . Heiko Queitsch greenpoint climbing in the Frankenjura . 3 August 2012 . 22 December 2022 . 22 December 2022 . https://web.archive.org/web/20221222190116/https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/heiko-queitsch-greenpoint-climbing-in-the-frankenjura.html . live .
  10. Web site: PlanetMountain . Chasin the Trane greenpoint in the Frankenjura . 7 November 2011 . 22 December 2022 . 22 December 2022 . https://web.archive.org/web/20221222190427/https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/chasin-the-trane-greenpoint-in-the-frankenjura.html . live .
  11. Web site: PlanetMountain . Sonnie Trotter finds The Path 5.14 R at Lake Louise, Alberta, Canada . 23 August 2007 . 8 February 2023 . 8 February 2023 . https://web.archive.org/web/20230208235256/https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/sonnie-trotter-finds-the-path-514-r-at-lake-louise-alberta-canada.html . live .
  12. Web site: Lambert. Erik. 31 August 2007. Trotter Chops Bolts, Sends Marathon Project. 8 February 2023. Alpinist. 8 February 2023. https://web.archive.org/web/20230208233826/http://www.alpinist.com/doc/ALP20/newswire-trotter-path-bolt-chop. live.
  13. Web site: Gripped Magazine . Redpoint, Pinkpoint, and Headpoint – What Do They Mean? . Aaron . Pardy . 5 November 2022 . 21 December 2022 . 22 December 2022 . https://web.archive.org/web/20221222142957/https://gripped.com/profiles/redpoint-pinkpoint-and-headpoint-what-do-they-mean/ . live .
  14. Climber . What Is A Redpoint In Climbing? – Climbing Jargon Explained . 2 October 2020 . 1 January 2022.
  15. Web site: Gripped Magazine . Onsight and Flash – What Do They Mean? . Aaron . Pardy . 2 November 2022 . 8 February 2023 . 28 January 2023 . https://web.archive.org/web/20230128015604/https://gripped.com/profiles/onsight-and-flash-what-do-they-mean/ . live .
  16. Web site: . Free Solo Rock Climbing and the Climbers Who Have Defined the Sport . Alison . Osius . 4 June 2022 . 26 November 2022 . 30 October 2022 . https://web.archive.org/web/20221030032222/https://www.climbing.com/people/free-solo-rock-climbing-alex-honnold-history/ . live .
  17. . North America, United States, Nevada, Rainbow Wall, Various Activity . 1999 . A month later, Roxanna Brock teamed up with Bobbi Bensman to do the first female free ascent (FFFA) of the route in a day. . 228 . 41 . 73 . 2023-02-11 . 2023-02-11 . https://web.archive.org/web/20230211095248/https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199922702 . live .
  18. Web site: . The 25 Greatest Moments in Yosemite Climbing History . 1 June 2016 . 4 December 2022 . Editorial . 4 December 2022 . https://web.archive.org/web/20221204003915/https://www.outsideonline.com/outdoor-adventure/climbing/25-greatest-moments-yosemite-climbing-history/ . live .
  19. National Geographic . American Woman Reaches a New Milestone in Rock Climbing. https://web.archive.org/web/20220104202217/https://www.nationalgeographic.com/adventure/article/american-woman-reaches-a-new-milestone-in-rock-climbing . dead . January 4, 2022 . 1 March 2017 . 20 January 2022 . Andrew . Bishart .
  20. Climbing. Can't Keep Her Down: A Consolidated History of Women's Climbing Achievements . Megan . Walsh . 14 November 2017 . 29 January 2022 . live . https://web.archive.org/web/20220129204338/https://www.climbing.com/people/cant-keep-her-down-a-consolidated-history-of-womens-climbing-achievements/ . 29 January 2022 .
  21. Web site: . Who Did It First? Style, Grades and Dispute in First Ascents . Francis . Sanzarro . 22 March 2022 . 8 February 2023 . 10 February 2023 . https://web.archive.org/web/20230210095821/https://www.climbing.com/people/who-did-it-first-style-grades-and-dispute-in-first-ascents/ . live .
  22. Web site: . Patagonia's Cerro Torre Gets the Chop: Maestri Unbolted . David . Roberts . David Roberts (climber) . 29 January 2012 . 8 February 2023 . 10 February 2023 . https://web.archive.org/web/20230210135029/https://www.nationalgeographic.com/adventure/article/patagonias-cerro-torre-climbing-controversy-maestri-unbolted . dead .
  23. Web site: . The Other Side of Fred Rouhling . Pete . Ward . 2004 . 22 June 2022 . 22 June 2022 . https://web.archive.org/web/20220622205227/https://www.climbing.com/people/fred-rouhling/ . live .
  24. Web site: . Fred Rouhling's Akira Sees First Repeats Since 1995 FA, Receives Downgrade . Keven . Corrigan . 23 November 2020 . 22 June 2022 . 22 June 2022 . https://web.archive.org/web/20220622205220/https://www.climbing.com/news/fred-rouhlings-akira-sees-first-repeats-since-1995-fa-receives-downgrade/ . live .
  25. Web site: PlanetMountain . Fred Rouhling's Akira finally repeated after 25 years by Sébastien Bouin, Lucien Martinez . 23 November 2020 . 22 June 2022 . 22 June 2022 . https://web.archive.org/web/20220622210022/https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/fred-rouhling-akira-finally-repeated-after-25-years-sebastien-bouin-lucien-martinez.html . live .
  26. Web site: . Ondra Grabs Ascent of Chilam Balam . Amanda . Fox . 13 April 2011 . 9 February 2023 . 10 February 2023 . https://web.archive.org/web/20230210150423/https://www.climbing.com/news/ondra-grabs-ascent-of-chilam-balam/ . live .
  27. Web site: . Sébastian Bouin Claims Third Ascent of Chilam Balam (5.15b), Spain . 2014 . 8 February 2023 . 10 February 2023 . https://web.archive.org/web/20230210151459/https://www.rockandice.com/climbing-news/sebastian-bouin-claims-third-ascent-of-chilam-balam-5-15b-spain/ . live .
  28. Web site: Climber . Dani Andrada does fourth ascent of Chilam Balam . 16 November 2015 . 10 February 2023 . 10 February 2023 . https://web.archive.org/web/20230210151500/https://www.climber.co.uk/news/dani-andrada-does-fourth-ascent-of-chilam-balam/ . live .