| Figure-eight knot | |
| Names: | figure-of-eight knot, Savoy knot, Flemish knot, double stopper |
| Type: | stopper |
| Strength: | 80% |
| Origin: | Ancient |
| Related: | Stevedore knot, figure-eight loop, figure-eight follow through, directional figure eight |
| Releasing: | Jamming |
| Uses: | General-purpose stopper knot. Replaces the common overhand knot in many uses. |
| Abok Number: |
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| Conway Notation: | 2 2 |
| Ab Notation: | 41 |
| Instructions: | http://www.animatedknots.com/fig8_/ |
The figure-eight knot or figure-of-eight knot is a type of stopper knot. It is very important in both sailing and rock climbing as a method of stopping ropes from running out of retaining devices. Like the overhand knot, which will jam under strain, often requiring the rope to be cut, the figure-eight will also jam, but is usually more easily undone than the overhand knot.
The stevedore knot is an extension of simple figure-eight knot with an additional turn before the end is finally tightened.[1]
See main article: figure-eight loop. The figure-eight loop is used like an overhand loop knot. This type of knot can be used in prusik climbing when used in conjunction with a climbing harness, a climbing rope, and locking carabiner designed for climbing, to ascend or descend with minimal equipment and effort.
See main article: Flemish bend. The figure-eight bend knot is used to "splice" together two ropes, not necessarily of equal diameter. This knot is tied starting with a loose figure-eight knot on one rope (the larger-diameter one if unequal), and threading of the other rope's running end through the first figure eight, starting at the first figure-eight's running end and paralleling the path of the first rope through the figure eight until the second's ropes running end lies parallel against first's standing end. The result is two figure-eight knots, each partly inside the other and tightening its hold on the other when they are pulled in opposite directions. This can be a permanent or temporary splice. While it precludes the ropes' slipping relative to each other, it is a typical knot in having less strength than the straight ropes.
See main article: Offset figure-eight bend. The offset figure-eight bend is a poor knot that has been implicated in the deaths of several rock climbers.[2]
The stein knot (also known as a stone knot) is a variation of the figure-eight knot. It is used to secure a rope that is already passed around a post or through a ring. It is quick and easy to tie and untie. It is a device rigging rather than a true knot. In canyoneering, it is used to isolate rope strands to allow one person to rappel while another is getting on the rappel, or allow rappellers the option of using a single or a double rope. It is also used in basketmaking.