Enchainment Explained
In mountaineering and climbing, enchainment (an anglicisation of the French word, meaning "linking") is climbing two or more mountains or climbing routes on a mountain in one outing (often over the course of a day or a series of days). Rock climbing two or more routes in this manner are also called a "link up" in the United States. Climbers may do an enchainment of easy routes as a way of training for a more difficult objective, but some enchainments of hard routes are a prize in their own right, a notable example being the great north faces of the Alps.
In alpinism
By the 1970s, the number of possible new routes in the Alps seemed to be drying up, and so alpinists looked for other challenges. Developments in hang glider and paraglider technology, as well as advances in extreme skiing and the use of helicopters, meant that mountains could be descended much more quickly than they could by foot, making possible enchainments of long and difficult face routes. Early practitioners of this style of climbing were predominantly French, the most notable being Jean-Marc Boivin,, and Jean-Christophe Lafaille.[1]
- In August 1975 Nicolas Jaeger (who had made the first solo traverse of the in 1973[2]) accomplished the first solo ascent of the Bonatti-Gobbi route on the Grand Pilier d'Angle, descended to the Upper Freney Glacier and then made the second solo ascent of the Central Pillar of Freney, thereby reaching the summit of Mont Blanc over 17 hours.[3] [4] That achievement has led to him being referred to as "the inventor of modern enchainments".[5]
- On 17 March 1986, Boivin, using skis, a paraglider, and a hang glider for his descents, linked up ascents of the north faces of the Aiguille Verte, Les Droites, Les Courtes, and the Grandes Jorasses, flying 15km (09miles) back to the Chamonix valley after his final ascent and arriving at 0:30 am.[6] [1]
- From 11 to 12 March 1987, Profit was the first to climb the three hardest of the six great Alpine north faces, "the Trilogy", (the Eiger, the Matterhorn and the Grandes Jorasses) in under 24 hours.[6]
- In April 1996, Lafaille made a 15-day solo enchainment of ten classic alpine faces, including routes on the Eiger, and the Matterhorn.[7]
In rock climbing
In mountaineering
- In May 2008, Japanese climbers Katsutaka Yokoyama, Yusuke Sato, and Fumitaka Ichimura, completed the enchainment on Mount Denali of the Isis Face (M4 5.8 A1, 60 degrees, 7,200-feet [to South Buttress], Stutzman-Tackle, 1982), and the Slovak Direct (5.9, 100 degrees, 9,000-feet, Adam-Korl-Krizo, 1984), in a single, eight-day push.[11]
Notes and References
- http://jeanmarcboivin.free.fr/enchainements.htm Jean-Marc BOIVIN: ENCHAINEMENTS
- INFO: The Alps . Mountain . 30 . 12 . Mountain Magazine Ltd. . November 1973 . 0964-3427 .
- Rebuffat . Gaston . In Memoriam:Nicolas Jaeger . 264-265 . Alpine Journal . 87 . 331 . 1982 . 31 March 2024 .
- Griffin . Lindsay . Above the Val de Bagnes . 197-200 . Alpine Journal . 102 . 346 . 9780948153433 . 1996 . 31 March 2024 .
- Web site: Ferrari . Ivo . Loretan and Georges' Imperial Crown, merely the thought inspires . Planet Mountain . 15 January 2016 . 31 March 2024 .
- Mark Twight, Kiss Or Kill: Confessions of a Serial Climber, The Mountaineers Books, 2002, p. 33
- . The Grande Voyage: A solo enchainment o f 10 Alpine faces in 15 days . 1996 . 38 . 70 . Jean-Christophe . Lafaille . 24 December 2022 . 104–112.
- Web site: . The 25 Greatest Moments in Yosemite Climbing History . 1 June 2016 . 4 December 2022 . Editorial.
- Web site: . Honnold and Caldwell Complete First Ascent of Fitz Traverse . 2014 . 24 December 2022.
- Web site: Caldwell, Honnold Finish 5k Fitz Roy Traverse – Alpinist.com. www.alpinist.com. 18 February 2014 .
- Web site: . Historic Enchainment on Denali. Christian . Backwidth . 27 May 2008 . 24 December 2022 .
