| Devilled kidneys | |
| Country: | United Kingdom |
| Course: | Breakfast |
| Served: | Warm |
| Main Ingredient: | Lamb kidneys |
| Other: | 18th century onwards |
Devilled kidneys is a Victorian British breakfast dish consisting of lamb's kidneys cooked in a spiced sauce, referred to as "devilling". It has since become more frequently used as a supper-time dish.
The devilling mixture consists of Worcestershire sauce, mustard, butter, cayenne pepper, salt and black pepper.[1]
James Boswell described devilling during the 18th century, although it was not until the 19th and 20th centuries that devilled kidneys grew in popularity as a breakfast dish. During the Edwardian era, the dish was typically served in gentlemen's clubs,[2] and was part of a cuisine which also included items such as kedgeree or kippers. In the modern era it has mostly been promoted as a supper dish instead of at breakfast.[3]
British celebrity chef Rick Stein created a recipe combining devilled kidneys with wild mushrooms to create an entrée.[4] The dish is often included in cookbooks, with versions gracing the covers of books by the Canteen restaurant,[5] as well as books by The Hairy Bikers. Chef Fergus Henderson described Caroline Conran's version of devilled kidneys as "the best recipe, ever!",[6] and Marco Pierre White created devils kidneys for the celebrities in one of his seasons of ITV's Hell's Kitchen.[7]