A (Mongolian: {{MongolUnicode|ᠳᠡᠪᠡᠯ|lang=mn in Mongolian pronounced as /deːɮ/; Buriat: дэгэл in Mongolian pronounced as /dɛɡɛɮ/) is an item of traditional clothing commonly worn by Mongols and Turkic and Tungusic peoples for centuries,[1] and can be made from cotton, silk, wool, or brocade.
The is still commonly worn by both men and women outside major towns, especially by herders.[2] In urban areas, the is mostly only worn by elderly people, or on festive occasions. The appears similar to a caftan or an old European folded tunic. s typically reach to below the wearer's knees and fan out at the bottom. They come in a variety of colors but are most commonly blue, olive, or burgundy.
The looks like a large overcoat when not worn. Instead of buttoning together in the middle, the sides are pulled against the wearer's body, the right flap close to the body with the left covering. On the right side of the wearer are typically 5 or 6 clasps to hold the top flap in place. There is one clasp below the armpit, three at the shoulder, and either one or two at the neckline.
A is traditionally worn with a large sash, usually made of silk or leather belts with large, ornate buckles have become more common in the modern era. The area between the flaps and above the belt creates a large pocket in which the wearer can store objects; Mongolian men will occasionally even carry a silver bowl or cup, or even a snuff box in their . Though there is no major difference in material or outline between male and female s, women tend to wear the "pocket" closer (that is, women often prefer a more snug-fitting deel), while men's may have larger pockets, a looser fit, and wider sleeves.
In Mongolia, the usage of the word has been extended to cover other long winter coats as well. For example, fur and leather overcoats of Western design are referred to as and, respectively, meaning "fur ", "leather " and "cashmere ", which is made of the luxurious material cashmere. Nevertheless, other Mongol regions, such as Bortala in Xinjiang, retain the specific meaning of the word as the traditional garment, and refer to other overcoats as .
design varies to a certain degree among cultures and ethnic groups, and has varied across time periods. There are even distinct variations among different Mongol tribes,[3] mostly on the design of the upper chest opening edges. For instance, the Khalkha Mongol opening edges are round, while a Buryat 's is square. It can also vary among other tribes such as Chakhars, Torguuds, and Uzemchins. s are designed for different occasions, seasons,[4] and functions. There are s for ceremonies like weddings and holidays and s for daily wear. s for special occasions have their outer layer made of silk while the common s are usually made of wool, cotton and other relatively inexpensive materials.