Yoruba clothing explained

Yoruba clothing is the traditional clothing worn by people of the Yoruba ethnic group in parts of Nigeria, Benin and Togo in a region called Yorubaland. The clothing reflects the rich culture, history and aesthetic preferences of the Yoruba people.

Women's clothing

The main components of Yoruba women’s clothing are:

• Iro ati Buba: This consists of a loose-fitting blouse that covers the upper body and a large wrapper that is wrapped around the waist and covers the lower body. It can be made from the same fabric as the top to bottom or a different one each for the Iro ati buba parts. The buba can have different necklines, sleeves, embroidery and embellishments, depending on the occasion and the wearer’s taste. The iro can have different lengths, widths, and patterns, depending on the occasion and the wearer’s taste. Iro ati Buba can be made from various fabrics, such as Aso-oke/ Aso-Ofi, Adire, Aran, Seghosen, Jawu, Aso olona, Silk, lace, or Damask/Brocade. Iro ati Buba is most times paired with Gele and Ipele. Iro can also be worn without Buba as an outfit on its own, with the other components of Yoruba attire.^{[1] [2]}
• Gele: an elaborate Yoruba cultural head-tie that is wrapped around the head in various styles. It can be made from stiff or soft fabrics, such as aso-oke, damask, adire or ankara. The gele can have different colors, shapes, and decorations, depending on the occasion and the wearer’s taste.^[3]
• Ipele: a shawl that is draped over the shoulder or around the waist. It is also sometimed held in the hand or on the forearm. It can be made from the same fabric as the gele or a different one. The ipele can have different sizes, fringes, and embroidery, depending on the occasion and the wearer’s taste.^[4]
• Komole: This is a long gown fashioned after the Iro ati Buba. The Komole dress can have different necklines, sleeves, embroidery and embellishments, depending on the occasion and the wearer’s taste. It is popular as Wedding wear for Yoruba brides^[5]
• Iborun: This is a Scarf or Stole
• Oleku: This is a short knee length Iro ati Buba style or dress. It is not as long as typical Iro ati Buba attire.^[6]
• Kaja: Kaja also called Pakaja is a Toga like unisex Yoruba outfit. It is passed around the armpit and tied on the shoulder. Yoruba women wear it to events. It is more common among Yoruba dignitaries and royals.
• Aso Ebi: A matching wear that is worn to events by family and friends. It is a series of stylish dresses worn by the brides friends, bridesmaids and wedding guests. It has elements of the komole.^[7]
• Beads and Accessories: Yoruba women also adorn themselves with various beads, jewelry, and accessories, each of carry cultural significance. These include beads like Iyun, Segi, Akun, Ileke idi, Eyin erin, Opoto, Ikan. Also Wura (Gold) and Fadaka (Silver). Yoruba women wear beads on their neck, wrists, ankles, waist and on their heads. Other common accessories Yoruba women use include Irukere, commonly called "horse tail" in English, Handfan called Abebe and Okin Arewa and A Clutch Purse.^[8]
• Hairstyles: Yoruba Women's hairstyles can also be considered part of Yoruba clothing. Yoruba hairstyles include braiding and threading styles done since ancient times. These are used to beautify Yoruba womens hair when the Gele is not on or is taken off. Yoruba women's hairstyles are used in daily life, festivals and by performers. Some traditional Yoruba hairstyles includes braids like Suku/Shuku, Koroba, Patewo, Irun didi, Adimole, etc. Also threaded hairstyles (Irun Owu) called Irun Kiko.^[9] Also beads can be added to the hairstyles as well.

Men's clothing

Agbada

It is a multi layered robe worn by Yoruba men. It is worn both as a ceremonial outfit and for casual outings.

Pakaja / Kaja

This is a Toga-like clothing worn by Yoruba men.

Fila: These are Yoruba mens caps. They include Fila Abeti Aja, fila Gobi and Fila Kufi. Fila abeti Aja is styles with two "handles" that can be moved, Fila Gobi has a dropped side while Fila Kufi is from the Islamic religion.

Shokoto : A Yoruba man's native trousers style

Kembe : A baggy trousers

Gbariye : A type of clothing similar to Agbada but less layered and shorter

Danshiki: A native shirt

Fabrics

Yoruba clothing is made from both indigenous Yoruba made fabrics and some imported fabrics which has become a staple in Yoruba culture. Some of the common fabrics used for making Yoruba women’s clothing are:

• Aso-oke: a hand-woven cloth of the Yoruba People. It is considered the most prestigious of traditional fabrics in Nigeria and is worn to special occasions such as weddings, festivals, and coronations. Aso-Oke is prominent in Iseyin, a city in Oyo, but is popular all over Yorubaland. The most common prestigious Aso-oke types are: etu (deep blue with thin light blue stripes), sanyan (beige silk from the cocoons of the Anaphe moth), and alaari (magenta waste silk). Some other types of Asooke include Ifun or fu, a combination of light brown and navy blue woven cloth. Waka, a woven cloth of solid black background with one or two warp stripes of red. Aso-ipo, ifale, abata, and aponuponyin. Aso-oke also comes in various colours, patterns, designs. Some Aso-oke have beads and some have embroidery and motifs woven into it, such as stripes, checks, flowers, animals, or geometric shapes.^[10]
• Adire: a Yoruba tie-dyed or resist-dyed fabric that is made by applying wax or starch to certain parts of the cloth before dyeing it. Adire can be made from various fabrics, such as cotton, silk, or rayon. Adire has three main different types: Adire Eleko, Adire Oniko and Adire Alabere. Adire can have various patterns and colors, such as indigo blue, black, brown, green, or white.^[11]
• Aran: It is a fabric made with velvet material and is a traditional attire in Yorubaland for special occasions.^[12]
• Seghosen: Seghosen clothing is Yoruba clothing from Owo Kingdom made from cotton fabric that is dyed with natural or synthetic dyes. The fabric is then decorated with intricate patterns and motifs that are either woven, embroidered, or appliqued.^[13]
• Jawu : A cloth of the Yoruba people made with Stylistic cut outs in it.
• Aso Olona Aso olona is a type of cloth that is woven with patterns and symbols that have cultural and spiritual meanings for the Yoruba people, especially the Ijebu subgroup. Aso olona means "cloth with patterns" in Yoruba language. The cloth is made from hand-spun white and indigo cotton, and decorated with weft-float designs that depict water spirits, animals, plants, and other motifs. The cloth is used as a title cloth for the Ogboni/Oshugbo society, which is a powerful and secretive association of elders and leaders in Yoruba society. The cloth is also worn by chiefs, priests, and members of the society on special occasions, such as ceremonies, festivals, and rituals. It is regarded as a valuable heirloom and a symbol of authority and prestige. It can be called Itagbe when its a shawl worn over the shoulder. ^{[14] [15]}
• Ankara: a printed cotton fabric that originated from Netherlands and Indonesia but became popular in West Africa due to its colorful and vibrant patterns. Ankara is also known as Dutch wax, African wax, or African print. There are Yoruba made Ankara cloth. Ankara can have various themes and symbols printed on it, such as flowers, animals, stars, or abstract shapes.
• Eya / Lace: a delicate fabric made from yarn or thread that is looped, twisted, or knotted to create intricate patterns. Lace can be made from various materials, such as cotton, silk, nylon, or polyester. Lace can have various styles and designs, such as guipure or sequin.
• Brocade and Damask : a fabric that has complex patterns incorporated into it during the weaving process. Brocade and Damask can be made from various materials, such as cotton, silk, wool, or synthetic fibers. Brocade and Damask can have various colors and textures, such as shiny, matte, smooth, or rough.

Fabrics no longer in use:

Kijipa: ^[16] This was mainly used by Regular and Crafts people in the past. It had a rough texture, was made of raw hand spun cotton. Kijipa was woven on indigenous narrow and wide looms. It is no longer used today and may sometimes be closely depicted in some types of Yoruba historical movies.

Ibante/bante: An old fabric type used by Yoruba farmers.^[17]

Elegheghe: The Elegheghe was the local cloth of the highest quality in Owo kingdom and was usually presented as gifts to august visitors. It had two prominent types. Elegheghe Dudu and Elegheghe Pupa.^{[18] [19]}

Yoruba women’s clothing is not only a form of dressing but also a form of expression and identity. The clothing reflects the personality, mood, taste, and creativity of the wearer. The clothing also conveys messages about the social status, marital status, age group, religious affiliation, and cultural affiliation of the wearer. Yoruba women’s clothing is also influenced by the history and culture of the Yoruba people. The clothing reflects the traditions, values, and beliefs of the Yoruba people.^[20]

• The use of aso-oke dates back to the ancient times in Yorubaland, when it was worn by the Yoruba kingdoms, such as Oyo, Ife, and Ijebu.
• The use of adire dates back to the ancient times, when it was used by the Yoruba people for ritual and ceremonial purposes. The Yoruba people developed various techniques and methods of dyeing, such as shibori, and eleko.
• Aran was created in Yorubaland centuries ago.
• Seghosen dates back to the ancient Yoruba kingdom of Owo.
• Aso Olona / Itagbe dates back to the ancient Yoruba kingdoms of Ijebu-Ode.
• The use of ankara dates back to the colonial era, when it was introduced by Dutch traders and missionaries who brought it from Indonesia. The Yoruba people adapted it to their own tastes and preferences, creating unique and diverse patterns and styles.
• The use of lace dates back to the pre-colonial and colonial era, when it was imported from Europe and Asia which also inspired local Yoruba ones to be made too. Both Imported and Local lace are in use.

And so on.

Yoruba women’s clothing is also an impactful part of the Nigerian culture and the African culture. The clothing showcases the diversity, beauty, and richness of Yoruba people and by extension the African continent and its people. The clothing also inspires and influences other forms of art and expression, such as music, dance, literature, and cinema. For example:

• The clothing is often featured in Nigerian movies, especially in Nollywood, the Nigerian film industry. The clothing is used to portray different characters, settings, themes, and genres of movies.
• The clothing is often worn by Nigerian musicians, especially in Afrobeats, a Nigerian music genre. The clothing is used to express different moods, messages, styles, and genres of music.
• The clothing is often celebrated in Nigerian literature, especially in novels, poems, and essays. The clothing is used to describe different scenes, emotions, personalities, and stories.
• The clothing is often admired by Nigerian dancers, especially in traditional dances. The clothing is used to enhance different movements, rhythms, gestures, and expressions.

Yoruba women’s garments have evolved over centuries, adapting to changes in fashion, lifestyle, and societal norms.^[21]

Notes and References

1. News: 2020-06-24 . Nigeria's Yoruba women announce their arrival in style . en-GB . BBC News . 2023-10-03.
2. Web site: Emerie . Happy . 2022-12-12 . Latest Most Fantastic Aso oke Styles for Ladies 2023 . 2023-10-05 . Asoebi Guest Fashion . en-US.
3. Akinde . Toyin . Tijani . Aminat O. . Akintonde . Moses A. . Eyinade . Adedapo S. . Yoruba Contemporary Gele: A Stylistic Appraisal . International Journal of Humanities, Management and Social Science . 21 December 2022 . 5 . 2 . 79–88 . 10.36079/lamintang.ij-humass-0502.430 . free .
4. Web site: Aso Oke: Nigerian Yoruba's colorful, ceremonial fabric . 2023-10-03 . www.aa.com.tr.
5. News: Agorye . Jessica . 2019-01-10 . Iro X Buba Redefined! See How Real Brides Are Rocking Deola Sagoe's Luxury Komole Range . 2023-10-04 . Style Rave . en-US.
6. Web site: Simwa . Adrianna . 2017-06-06 . 30+ stylish Oleku styles with Ankara for fashion enthusiasts . 2023-10-04 . Legit.ng - Nigeria news. . en.
7. Web site: Emerie . Happy . 2022-12-23 . A Glance At Yoruba Wedding Attires And Other Highlights . 2023-10-04 . Asoebi Guest Fashion . en-US.
8. Web site: 2017-01-24 . Yoruba traditional beads: A rich blend of royalty, history, aesthetics . 2023-10-03 . Tribune Online . en-GB.
9. Web site: Apindi . Cyprine . 2017-06-02 . 30+ traditional Yoruba hairstyles that are all the rage even now . 2023-10-03 . Legit.ng - Nigeria news. . en.
10. Web site: 2021-03-24 . What Yoruba traditional clothing styles and accessories look like . 2023-10-03 . Afrinik . en-US.
11. Web site: What is Adire textile? . 2023-10-03 . The Craft Atlas . en-US.
12. Web site: Yoruba Traditional Attire: Aran with (Jakan) Embroidery – dBalo . 2023-10-03 . en-US.
13. Onibode . Babatunde . Poynor . Robin . The Cloth That Eats Money: Ṣeghoṣen as a Symbol of Prestige . African Arts . 56 . 3 . 20 . 0001-9933.
14. Web site: 2023-10-25 . Man's Prestige Wrapper (Aso Olona – "The Artful Cloth") Birmingham Museum of Art . 2023-10-27 . en-US.
15. Web site: Vintage Nigerian Textile - Aso Olona . 2023-10-27 . grains of africa . en-US.
16. Web site: fagbemijo . 2014-05-22 . "Indigenous Yoruba Aso Oke: The Vintage – Types And Their Significance" by Aderonke Adesola Adesanya . 2024-07-17 . Oyeku Ofun Temple . en.
17. Web site: fagbemijo . 2014-05-22 . "Indigenous Yoruba Aso Oke: The Vintage – Types And Their Significance" by Aderonke Adesola Adesanya . 2024-07-17 . Oyeku Ofun Temple . en.
18. . Olugbadehan . Oladipo Joseph . 2006 . Owo: A frontier Yoruba kingdom .
19. Web site: wrapper British Museum . 2024-07-17 . www.britishmuseum.org . en.
20. Web site: 2016-10-20 . Yoruba Clothing . 2023-10-03 . MUSIC AFRICA AWAKE . en.
21. Web site: 2021-03-24 . What Yoruba traditional clothing styles and accessories look like . 2023-10-03 . Afrinik . en-US.