William Bosi Explained

William "Will" Bosi
Birth Date:	December 27, 1998
Birth Place:	Edinburgh, Scotland, United Kingdom
Education:	Broughton High School, Edinburgh^[1]
Occupation:	Professional rock climber
Height:	175 cm
Weight:	67 kg
Apeindex:	+2cm (0.79 inch)
Updated:	28 June 2023

William (Will) Bosi (born 27 December 1998) is a British professional rock climber specializing in sport climbing, bouldering and competition climbing. Bosi is only the second British sport climber in history to redpoint a graded sport climbing route (King Capella in 2021), and by 2023, was one of only a small group of climbers in the world to have completed a boulder (Alphane in 2022, Burden of Dreams in 2023, and Return of the Sleepwalker in 2024).

Early life and education

Bosi was born in Edinburgh to Alison and Martin Bosi. His mother is a nursery nurse from Inverleith. Both parents took him and his 3-year-old brother Alexander to an indoor climbing centre in Newhaven, Edinburgh when he was 6 years old. He attended Broughton High School, Edinburgh. By 2011, Bosi was the British Champion in the Youth Climbing Series (a competition climbing event for boys aged 11 to 13) and also the Scottish Youth Climbing Champion.^[1]

Climbing career

Sport climbing

In 2016, Bosi came to attention when aged 17 he redpointed Steve McClure's famous British sport climbing route Rainshadow, becoming the youngest Briton to climb a graded sport route.

In 2020–2021, Bosi became only the second British climber in history, after Steve McClure, to climb a grade sport route with his repeat of Adam Ondra's La Capella, and followed up by his first free ascent of King Capella (a route initially considered a possible 9b+), both of which are in Siurana in Spain.

Bouldering

In 2022, on a trip with Adam Ondra to his home crag of Moravský Kras in the Czech Republic, Bosi flashed the boulder, Charizard (he failed on Ondra's as yet unrepeated 8C+ boulder, Terranova).^[2] That year, he also created Honey Badger in the English peak district, which he graded at .

In November 2022, Bosi became one of only a handful of boulderers in the world to have climbed a grade boulder when he repeated Shawn Raboutou's Alphane, which he felt was easier than his own 8C+ graded route, Honey Badger. In April 2023, he made the first repeat of Nalle Hukkataival's Burden of Dreams, considered the world's first-ever boulder, and which at the time of Bosi's repeat was still considered the world's hardest boulder. In February 2024, Bosi made the first repeat of Daniel Woods' Return of the Sleepwalker, which he felt was easier than Burden of Dreams, but harder than Alphane, with Bosi stating that Woods' route was definitely at a V17 grade.^[3]

Competition climbing

Bosi has represented Britain in competition lead climbing, in both youth and adult formats, and in 2018 became the first Briton to reach an International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) final in 30 years, where he finished fifth at the IFSC World Cup in Chamonix; he finished fourth twice during the 2019 IFSC World Cup.^{[4] [5]} Bosi narrowly missed out on a place in the Tokyo 2020 Olympics, despite trying to learn speed climbing, a required discipline in Olympic competition climbing.^[6]

In 2021, Bosi announced that he was taking a break from competition climbing to focus on outdoor sport climbing and bouldering.^[2]

Notable ascents

Redpointed routes

• King Capella – Siurana (ESP) – March, 2021. First ascent, which Bosi felt was at 9b+,^{[7] [8]} but the grade was settled at 9b after repeats by Alex Megos (2021), and Jakob Schubert (2021).^{[9] [10]}

• La Capella – Siurana (ESP) – February, 2020. Third repeat of Adam Ondra's 2011 route, and the second-ever British climber to climb a 9b route (after Steve McClure with Rainman in 2017); sometimes considered closer to 9a+.^[11]

• Free at Last – Dumbarton Rock (GBR) – July, 2022. First ascent. A long-standing unsolved line beside Dave Cuthbertson's famous 1983 route, Requiem (E8 6c), and Dave MacLeod's 2006 equally notable route, Rhapsody (E11 7a); Free at Last became Scotland's hardest route.^{[12] [13]}

• Brandenburg Gate – Raven Tor (GBR) – November, 2021. First ascent. The line was regarded as a "holy grail" of British sport climbing.^[14]

• Mutation – Raven Tor (GBR) – October, 2021. First repeat of Steve McClure's ground-breaking 1998 route, which Bosi suggested was "at least" 9a+ (and possibly harder), making it one of the first-ever 9a+ sport climbing routes in history.^{[15] [16] [17]}

• First Ley – Margalef (ESP) – February, 2021. Repeat ascent of Chris Sharma's 2010 route that is popular with aspiring 9a+ climbers.^[16]

• La Furia de Jabalí – Siurana (ESP) – February, 2021. First ascent, which Bosi felt could be 9b, but the grade later settled at 9a+ after repeats by Alex Megos (2021), Jakob Schubert (2021), and Adam Ondra (2022).^[7]

• Rainshadow – Malham Cove (GBR) – May, 2016. Became the youngest Briton to climb at 9a when he made the fifth repeat of Steve McClure's iconic 2003 route, aged 17; Rainshadow is considered the "benchmark" for aspiring 9a sport climbers in Britain.^{[18] [19] [20]}

• Return of the Sleepwalker – Red Rock Canyon (US) – February 2024 – First repeat of the world's second-ever V17 boulder problem by Daniel Woods (2021).^[21]

• Burden of Dreams – Lappnor, () – April, 2023. First repeat of the world's first-ever V17 boulder problem by Nalle Hukkataival (2016), and in 2023, was still considered the world's hardest boulder;^{[22] [23]} Bosi practiced on a replica 3D version in Britain.^{[24] [25] [26]}

• Alphane – Chironico, (SUI) – November, 2022. Second repeat of Shawn Raboutou's route that Bosi felt was easier than Honey Badger.^{[27] [28]}

• Ephyra – Chironico, (SUI) – November, 2022. Third repeat of Jimmy Webb's 2019 boulder.^[29]

• Honey Badger – Peak District, (GBR) – August, 2022. First ascent and the third British boulder to be graded at V16.^{[30] [31]}

• Dreamtime – Cresciano, (SUI) – December, 2022. Repeat of the famous boulder Fred Nicole route; took only 4 attempts.^{[32] [33]}

See also

• List of grade milestones in rock climbing

External links

• VIDEO: Watch Will Bosi Become the Sixth Person to Climb 5.15c with King Capella Climbing (2021)
• VIDEO: What I Learned Watching Will Bosi’s Livestream of Burden of Dreams Climbing (2023)
• VIDEO: Will Bosi, My Climbing Journey, Base Magazine (2023)

Notes and References

1. Web site: . Bosi brothers are at the top of their game . 28 October 2011 . 28 June 2023 . Newsroom Ed..
2. Web site: . Scottish Climber Will Bosi Dominates Adam Ondra's Home Crag . Delaney . Millar . 28 April 2022 . 30 June 2023.
3. Web site: . Will Bosi Gets Second Ascent of 'Return of the Sleepwalker'—Confirms V17 . Steven . Potter . 21 February 2024 . 21 February 2024.
4. Web site: . 5th for Will Bosi at Chamonix IFSC Lead World Cup. 16 July 2018 . 28 June 2023 . Peter . Burnside .
5. Web site: DMM Wales . Will Bosi . 28 June 2023 . 2023.
6. Web site: . Tokyo 2020: Great Britain's Will Bosi seeks Olympic sport climbing place . Nicky . Hope . 28 November 2019 . 28 June 2023.
7. Web site: . British Climber Will Bosi, Just 22, Joins Ondra in Club 5.15c . 29 March 2021 . 28 June 2023 . Climbing Ed..
8. Web site: Gripped Magazine . Will Bosi Climbs New 5.15c with King Capella . 29 March 2021 . 28 June 2023.
9. Web site: PlanetMountain . Jakob Schubert reins in King Capella and La Capella at Siurana . 11 December 2021 . 28 June 2023 .
10. Web site: . Will Bosi suggests 9b+ for his first ascent of King Capella . Peter . Burnside . 29 March 2021 . 28 June 2023.
11. Web site: . Will Bosi becomes second Brit to climb 9b . Peter . Burnside . 5 April 2020 . 28 June 2023 .
12. Web site: PlanetMountain . Will Bosi is Free at Last at Dumbarton in Scotland . 6 July 2022 . 28 June 2023.
13. Web site: Gripped Magazine . New 5.15a is Scotland's Hardest Route – Will Bosi Sends Free at Last . 4 July 2022 . 28 June 2023.
14. Web site: PlanetMountain . Will Bosi finally climbs Brandenburg Gate, a longstanding project at Raven Tor, UK . 8 November 2021 . 28 June 2023.
15. Web site: PlanetMountain.com . Will Bosi repeats Mutation, 23 years after Steve McClure's first ascent at Raven Tor . 2 November 2021 . 13 January 2022.
16. Web site: Gripped.com . Will Bosi Suggests 5.15a Upgrade to Mutation After First Repeat Since 1998 . 2 November 2021 . 13 January 2021.
17. Climber . Bosi makes historic second ascent of Mutation (F9a+/b?) . 2 November 2021 . 13 January 2022.
18. Web site: Climber Magazine . William Bosi talks about his ascent of Rainshadow and becoming the youngest ever Brit to do F9a . 4 May 2016 . 28 June 2023 . Climber Ed..
19. Web site: . William Bosi, 17, Climbs Rainshadow (5.14d), Malham Cove . Climbing Ed. . November 2011 . 28 June 2023.
20. Web site: . William Bosi ticks Rainshadow: youngest Brit to join club 9a . Sarah . Sterling . 7 May 2016 . 28 June 2023.
21. Web site: . Will Bosi Gets Second Ascent of 'Return of the Sleepwalker'—Confirms V17 . Steven . Potter . 21 February 2024 . 21 February 2024.
22. Web site: . He climbed one of the world's most difficult boulders — after practicing on a 3D model . Sheena . Goodyear . 5 June 2023 . 28 June 2023.
23. Web site: PlanetMountain . Will Bosi repeats Burden of Dreams 9A in Finland! . 14 April 2023 . 28 June 2023.
24. Web site: The Independent (online) . British man Will Bosi completes world's toughest boulder climb after practicing on 3D-printed replica . Taz . Ali . 5 June 2023 . 28 June 2023.
25. Web site: . William Bosi: Rock-hard climb is conquered using a 3D printer . Poppy . Koronka . 5 June 2023 . 28 June 2023.
26. Web site: Will Bosi Sends 'Burden of Dreams' (V17) . Steven . Potter . 24 April 2023 . 28 June 2023 . Climbing.
27. Web site: Larssen . Jens . Alphane 9A? by Will Bosi . 8a.nu . Vertical Life . 6 November 2022.
28. Web site: PlanetMountain . Will Bosi repeats Alphane, Shawn Raboutou's Chironico testpiece . 2 November 2022 . 28 June 2023.
29. Web site: Gripped Magazine . Will Bosi Sends Ephyra V16 . 11 November 2022 . 28 June 2023.
30. Web site: Gripped Magazine . Will Bosi Climbs First V16 in Peak District . 13 August 2022 . 28 June 2023.
31. Web site: PlanetMountain . Will Bosi fearless on Honey Badger, new 8C+ boulder problem at Badger Cove, UK . 12 August 2022 . 28 June 2023.
32. Web site: Climbr . Dreamtime and Dagger: More Swiss blocs for Will Bosi including Font 8B/+ flash . 10 December 2022 . 12 August 2023.
33. Web site: PlanetMountain . Will Bosi flashes The Dagger and dispatches Dreamtime in a day . 8 December 2022 . 12 August 2023.