Twelve Bens Explained

Twelve Bens/Benna Beola
Region:	Connacht
Region Type:	Provinces of Ireland
Translation:	The peaks of Beola
Language:	Irish language
Location:	Connemara, County Galway, Ireland
Area Km2:	161.3
Highest:	Benbaun
Elevation M:	729
Elevation Ref:	^[1]
Coordinates:	53.5°N -9.81°W
Geology:	quartzites, grits, graphitic
Period:	Precambrian-Cambrian
Map:	Ireland
Topo:	OSI Discovery 37, 44

The Twelve Bens or Twelve Pins, also called the Benna Beola^[2], is a mountain range of mostly sharp-peaked quartzite summits and ridges in the Connemara National Park in County Galway, in the west of Ireland.^[3] The widest definition of the range includes the Garraun Complex to the north as well as several isolated peaks to the west, and is designated a 16163ha Special Area of Conservation.

The highest point is Benbaun at 729m (2,392feet). The range is a popular location for hill-walking activities with the 16–kilometre 8–9 hour Glencoaghan Horseshoe, considered one of the best ridge-walks in Ireland. Topographically, the range is partnered with the Maumturks range to the east of the Inagh valley (a Western Way route); and both share a common geology being largely composed of metamorphic marine rocks, being predominantly resistant quartzite but with deposits of schists in the valleys (known as Connemara Dalradian rocks).

Naming

"Ben" is an anglicized form of the Irish word binn, meaning "peak". According to Irish academic Paul Tempan, "An odd thing about the Twelve Bens of Connemara is that nobody seems to know exactly which are the twelve peaks in question", and noting that there are almost 20 peaks with "Ben" or "Binn" in their name.^[4] Tempan notes that term "twelve peaks" can be at least dated to the Irish historian Ruaidhrí Ó Flaithbheartaigh, whose writings in 1684 said: "On the north-west of Ballynahinsy [Ballynahinch], are the twelve high mountaines of Bennabeola, called by marriners the twelve stakes [stacks], being the first land they discover as they come from the maine [sea]", but he did not list them.

The most common list of the twelve peaks in question are the peaks with an elevation above 500 metres in the core range, and that are not considered subsidiary peaks (e.g. they have a non-trivial prominence, and have been traditionally noted as peaks on historic maps, per below).

Tempan notes the issue of "twelve" does not arise in the Irish language name as they are simply labelled Na Beanna Beola, which translates as "the peaks of Beola". Beola was a leader of the Fir Bolg, and a giant; his name appears in that of the Connemara village Toombeola.

Geography

The Twelve Bens range is a core massif of 22 peaks above in elevation, centred around the highest peak in the range, Benbaun 729m (2,392feet). To the north of this core massif lies the separate subsidiary massif of the Garraun Complex with 9 peaks around Garraun 598m (1,962feet). To the west of the core massif lies 7 other isolated or subsidiary "outlier" peaks, thus giving a total of 38 Bens with an elevation above 100 metres.

While the Bens are not as high as those of the ranges in County Kerry (e.g. MacGillycuddy's Reeks and the Mountains of the Dingle Peninsula), their rocky peaks and ridges contrast with the surrounding sea-level landscape (unlike Kerry, there are no mountain-passes in Connemara), and give the range an imposing feel.

The range is bounded by the Inagh Valley and the R344 road to the east, while the N59 road (or the "Clifden Road"), circles and bounds the core massif (and most of the outliers), from the southerly, westerly and northerly directions. The Garraun Complex lies to the north of the N59 road at Kylemore Lough.

Core massif

The 22 peaks in the core massif of the Twelve Bens range naturally split into three sections:^[5]

The core massif is also known for its deep glaciated U-shaped valleys, around which groups of Bens lie in a "horseshoe formation":^[5]

Geology

The core massif of the Twelve Bens range is largely composed of metamorphic marine rocks, being predominantly resistant quartzite but with deposits of schists in the valleys (known as "Connemara Dalradian" rocks).^{[6] [7] [8]}

These rocks derive from sediments that were deposited in a warm shelf sea some 700 to 550 million years ago (e.g. Precambrian-Cambrian).^[8] Movements in the Earth's crust, and the closure of the Iapetus Ocean, transformed these sediments into crystalline schists that lie underneath the base of the mountain range, which local erosion and uplift then brought to the surface.^{[6] [8]} The summits of the core massif (and some outliers) are made of weather-resistant quartzite, while the sides of the peaks are composed of schists and grey marbles.^[8]

In contrast, the mountains to the north of the core Twelve Bens massif, the Garraun Complex, have a different type of geology, that is composed of gneiss and different forms of sandstones and mudstones.^[7]

Scattered throughout the range are parts of gabbro (Doughruagh and Currywongaun), mica schist (Muckanaght), and outcrops of marble (south of Kylemore Lough).^[7]

The final Ice Age, circa 10,000 years ago, also sculpted the landscape leaving behind deposits of sand and gravel; there are widespread boulder-clay and erratic boulders across the range.^[8]

Special Area of Conservation (SAC)

The entire Twelve Bens range (including the Garraun Complex) is a Special Area of Conservation (SAC) (Site Code:002031), as selected for a range of habitats and species listed under the Annex I / II of the E.U. Habitats Directive.^[7] The items of note on the SAC habitats list includes: Oligotrophic Waters, Alpine Heaths, Active Blanket Bogs, remnants of Oak Woodland, Rhynchosporion Vegetation, and Siliceous Scree and Rocky Slopes; while the species list includes: Freshwater Pearl Mussel, Atlantic Salmon, Otter, and Slender Naiad.^[7] In addition, the 16,163-hectare site includes a some of the rarer Red Data Book species of plant.^[7] The SAC directive on the range describes it as "One of the largest and most varied sites of conservation interest in Ireland".^[7]

Climbing

The range is popular with hill walkers, fell runners, and rock climbers,

Hill walking

The Irish Times outdoors correspondent, John G. Dwyer, said of the Twelve Bens, "These are true kickass mountains, with criminally stunning views [..]".^[9] The 16km (10miles) 8–9 hour Glencoaghan Horseshoe is noted as providing some of the "most exhilarating mountaineering in Ireland",^[10] and is called "a true classic" by guidebook authors.^{[11] [12] [13]} Other similar distanced "horseshoe" loop walks are the 19–kilometre 10–12 hour Owenglin Horseshoe,^[14] the 15–kilometre 8–9 hour Gleninagh Horseshoe,^[15] and the 14–kilometre 6–7 hour Glencorbet Horseshoe.^{[16] [17]}

An even more serious undertaking is the 28km (17miles) "Twelve Bens Challenge", climbing all 12 Bens in a single 24-hour day.

Rock climbing

The Twelve Bens have a number of rock climbing locations, the most notable of which is in the Gleann Eighneach valley at the eastern spur of Benncorr (from Binn an tSaighdiúra to Bencorrbeg; also called "Carrot Ridge"). The climbs vary from Diff (D) to Very Severe (VS) and range from 150 metres to 320 metres in length, with notable routes being Carrot Ridge (275m D), and Seventh Heaven (330m HS).^[18]

In addition, the large easterly corrie between the summits of Derryclare and the summit of Bencorr, known as Irish: Log an Choire Mhóir (meaning "wood of the big corrie"), also contains several large 200 metre multi-pitch graded rock climbs at grades of Diff (D) to Very Diff (VD), the most notable of which is "The Knave" (VD, 225 m); and the smaller corrie between the summit of Bencorr and the summit of Bencorr North Top, known as Log an Choire Bhig, ("wood of the small corrie"), has a number of shorter but harder climbs including "Corner Climb" (VS 4c, 30 m).^[19]

List of peaks

See main article: Lists of mountains in Ireland. The following is a download from the MountainViews Online Database, who list 38 identifiable peaks in the wider Twelve Bens range (i.e. core massif, Garraun complex, and various outliers to the west), with an elevation, or height, above 100m (300feet)

The list below highlights the 12 Bens most associated with being the Twelve Bens from Ó Flaithbheartaigh's original record.^[12] Of the standalone "Bens" (e.g. not listed as a "Top" of a parent Ben) that are over 500m (1,600feet) in height but are not listed in this 12, Binn an tSaighdiúra has a prominence of only 8 metres and would not qualify as an independent mountain on any recognised scale (the lowest prominence is 15 metres for the Vandeleur-Lynam classification); Maumonght does have a prominence exceeding 50 metres, and even has a subsidiary peak (Maumonght SW Top), however, Maumonght rarely appears on historic maps of the range and is not considered a "Ben"; Bencorrbeag also has a non-trivial prominence of 42 metres, however, it is considered unlikely given its positioning that it could have been distinguished by mariners from the sea (Ó Flaithbheartaigh's original premise).^[12]

Peaks of the Twelve Bens Mountain range (MountainViews Online Database, July 2019)

Height Rank	Prom. Rank	Name	Irish Name (if different)	Translation	Area	Height (m)	Prom. (m)	Height (ft)	Prom. (ft)	Topo Map	OSI Grid Reference
1	1	Benbaun	Binn Bhán	White Peak	12 Bens - Core	729	684	2,392	2,244	37
2	4	Bencorr	Binn Chorr	Pointed Peak	12 Bens - Core	711	306	2,333	1,004	37
3	10	Bencollaghduff	Binn Dubh	Black Peak/Peak of Black Hags	12 Bens - Core	696	191	2,283	627	37
4	11	Benbreen	Binn Braoin	Braon's Peak	12 Bens - Core	691	186	2,267	610	37
5	38	Bencorr North Top	—	—	12 Bens - Core	690	5	2,264	16	37
6	31	Benbreen Central Top	—	—	12 Bens - Core	680	25	2,231	82	37
7	16	Derryclare	Binn Doire Chláir	Peak of Derryclare	12 Bens - Core	677	129	2,221	423	37
8	35	Benbreen North Top	—	—	12 Bens - Core	674	16	2,211	52	37
9	9	Bengower	Binn Gabhar	Goats' Peak	12 Bens - Core	664	196	2,178	643	37
10	12	Muckanaght	Muiceanach	Hill like a Pig	12 Bens - Core	654	179	2,146	587	37
11	37	Binn an tSaighdiúra	—	Peak of the Soldier	12 Bens - Core	653	8	2,142	26	37
12	24	Benfree	Binn Fraoigh	Peak of the Heather	12 Bens - Core	638	48	2,093	157	37
13	14	Bencullagh	An Chailleach	[Peak of] The Hag/Witch	12 Bens - Core	632	154	2,073	505	37
14	23		Mám Uchta	Pass of the Breast/Ridge	12 Bens - Core	602	54	1,975	177	37
15	2		Maolchnoc	Bald Hill	Garraun Complex	598	553	1,962	1,814	37
16	36	Benchoona East Top	—	—	Garraun Complex	585	15	1,919	49	37
17	7	Benbrack	Binn Bhreac	Speckled Peak	12 Bens - Core	582	264	1,909	866	37
18	28	Benchoona	Binn Chuanna	Peak of Cuanna	Garraun Complex	581	36	1,906	118	37
19	21	Benlettery	Binn Leitrí	Peak of the Wet Hillsides	12 Bens - Core	577	62	1,893	203	44
20	26	Bencorrbeg	Binn an Choire Bhig	Peak of the Little Corrie	12 Bens - Core	577	42	1,893	138	37
21	29	Garraun South Top	—	—	Garraun Complex	556	31	1,824	102	37
22	32	Garraun South-West Top	—	—	Garraun Complex	549	21	1,801	69	37
23	8	Doughruagh	Dúchruach	Black Stack	Garraun Complex	526	211	1,726	692	37
24	33	Doughruagh South Top	—	—	Garraun Complex	525	17	1,722	56	37
25	25	Benglenisky	Binn Ghleann Uisce	Peak of the Glen of Water	12 Bens - Core	516	48	1,693	157	37
26	27	Benbaun (477 m)	Binn Bhán/Maolán	White Peak	12 Bens - Core	477	42	1,565	138	37
27	30	Maumonght SW Top	Binn Bhreac	Speckled Peak	12 Bens - Core	454	29	1,490	95	37
28	5	Diamond Hill	Binn Ghuaire	Guaire's Peak	12 Bens - Outlier	442	277	1,450	909	37
29	22		Cnoc Breac	Speckled Hill	12 Bens - Core	442	55	1,450	180	37
30	34		Binn Charrach	Rocky Peak	12 Bens - Core	412	17	1,352	56	37
31	3	Tully Mountain	—	—	12 Bens - Outlier	356	331	1,168	1,086	37
32	6		Binn Mhór	Big Peak	Garraun Complex	333	268	1,093	879	37
33	15	Cregg	—	—	12 Bens - Outlier	297	142	974	466	37
34	20	Currywongaun	Corr Uí Mhongáin	Uí Mhongáin's Hill	Garraun Complex	273	109	896	358	37
35	18	Townaloughra East Top	—	—	12 Bens - Outlier	216	112	709	367	37
36	19	Gortrumnagh	(unknown)	(unknown)	12 Bens - Outlier	174	110	571	361	37
37	13	Maumfin	Mám Fionn	White Pass	12 Bens - Outlier	172	157	564	515	37
38	17	Knockaunbaun	An Cnocán Bán	White Hillock	12 Bens - Outlier	146	128	479	420	37

See also

• Mweelrea, major range in Killary Harbour
• Maumturks, major range in Connemara
• List of Irish counties by highest point
• Lists of mountains in Ireland
• Lists of mountains and hills in the British Isles

References

Further reading

• Book: Lynam . Joss . Robinson . Tim . Mountains of Connemara: Hill Walker's Guide . Folding Landscape . 978-0950400242 . 1988 .
• Book: Dillion . Paddy . The Mountains of Ireland: A Guide to Walking the Summits . Cicerone . 978-1852841102 . 1993 .
• Book: Dillion . Paddy . Connemara: Collins Rambler's guide . Harper Collins . 978-0002201216 . 2001 .
• Book: Paul Phelan . 2011 . Connemara & Mayo - A Walking Guide: Mountain, Coastal & Island Walks . Collins Press . 978-1848891029 .
• Book: Fairbairn . Helen . Ireland's Best Walks: A Walking Guide . Collins Press . 978-1848892118 . 2014 .
• Book: Connemara (Superwalker) Map (Waterproof Folded Map) (1:30,000 scale) . Harvey Maps . 978-1851373383 . 2015 .

External links

• Mountainview: The Twelve Bens Range
• The Twelve Bens Challenge: Routecard (2015)
• Irish Rock Climbing Database: Gleann Eighneach
• Irish Rock Climbing Database: Inagh Valley (Benorr & Derryclare)

Notes and References

1. Web site: Benbaun. MountainViews Online Database. 8 February 2019.
2. https://www.logainm.ie/en/1165510 "The Twelve Pins or Benna Beola" (English), Beanna Beola (Irish)
3. Web site: Twelve Bens. Encyclopædia Britannica. 6 March 2020.
4. Two Mountain Names: Slieve Felim and Mauherslieve . North Munster Antiquarian Journal . Paul Tempan . 6 . 2006 . 121 . The formula is preserved in the range known in English as "The Twelve Bens of Connemara", although the names of the exact twelve peaks are no longer known.
5. Book: Lynam . Joss . Robinson . Tim . Mountains of Connemara: Hill Walker's Guide . Folding Landscape . 978-0950400242 . 1988 .
6. Web site: Connemara before Clifden: The Geology of Connemara. Ronán Hennessy. 29 August 2012. 29 July 2019. University College Cork.
7. Web site: Site Name: The Twelve Bens/Garraun Complex SAC. 2017. 29 July 2019. Department of Culture, Heritage and the Gaeltacht. Site Code: 002031.
8. Web site: Connemara National Park: Geology. Connemara National Park. 2017. 29 July 2019.
9. News: A walk for the weekend: Twelve Bens, Connemara, Co Galway . John G. Dwyer . 29 October 2015 . 8 March 2020 . Irish Times.
10. Web site: A walk for the weekend: The Twelve Bens of Connemara are a hard walk but worth it. Irish Times. Tom Doherty. 22 June 2016. Even if you had to crawl across bogs to get to them, it would be worth it as the nine [should be six] peaks which form the Glencoaghan Horseshoe provide some of the most exhilarating mountaineering on this island..
11. Book: Ireland's Best Walks: A Walking Guide (Walking Guides) . Helen Fairbairn. Collins Press. 30 December 2014. 978-1848892118. ROUTE 34: The Glencoaghan Horseshoe. A true classic.
12. Book: Dillion . Paddy . Connemara: Collins Rambler's guide . Harper Collins . 978-0002201216 . 2001 . Walk 30: Gleann Chóchan Horseshoe .
13. Book: Paul Phelan . 2011 . Connemara & Mayo - A Walking Guide: Mountain, Coastal & Island Walks . Collins Press . 978-1848891029 . Route 12: Glencoaghan Horseshoe. one of Ireland's most dramatic walks .
14. Book: Dillion . Paddy . Connemara: Collins Rambler's guide . Harper Collins . 978-0002201216 . 2001 . Walk 24: Owenglin Horseshoe .
15. Book: Dillion . Paddy . Connemara: Collins Rambler's guide . Harper Collins . 978-0002201216 . 2001 . Walk 28: Gleann Eidhneach Horseshoe .
16. Book: Ireland's Best Walks: A Walking Guide (Walking Guides) . Helen Fairbairn. Collins Press. 30 December 2014. 978-1848892118. ROUTE 33: The Glencorbet Horseshoe. A true classic.
17. Book: Paul Phelan . 2011 . Connemara & Mayo - A Walking Guide: Mountain, Coastal & Island Walks . Collins Press . 978-1848891029 . Route 11: Glencorbet Horseshoe.
18. Web site: Glenn Eighneach. Irish Climbing Wiki. The finest rock formations in the Twelve Bens are found in the south wall of Gleann Eidheanach (Glen Inagh), running from Binn an Choire Bhig to Mám na bFhonsaí, east of Binn Dubh (L808530)..
19. Web site: Inagh Valley: Log an Choire Mhóir, Log and Choire Bhig. Irish Online Climbing Wiki. 1 August 2019.