Torre Egger Explained

Torre Egger
Elevation M:2685
Prominence M:275
Prominence Ref:[1]
Location:Patagonia, Argentina, Chile (disputed)
Range:Andes
Coordinates:-49.2928°N -73.0983°W
First Ascent:February 1976: Bragg, Donini, Wilson (US)
Easiest Route:rock/snow/ice

Torre Egger is one of the peaks in the Southern Patagonian Ice Field in South America, located between Argentina and Chile,[2] west of Cerro Chalten (or Fitz Roy). Torre Egger lies between Cerro Torre, the highest in a four mountain chain[3] and Cerro Standhardt. It is named after the Austrian alpinist Toni Egger (1926–1959), who died while climbing on Cerro Torre.

First ascent

In 1976, John Bragg, Jim Donini and Jay Wilson from the United States climbed Torre Egger by climbing first to the col between the peak and Cerro Torre, the Col of Conquest, and then up the ridge to the peak. The ascent was hampered by bad weather and took from December 1975 to February 22, 1976, when the 3-person team summited.[4]

Other ascents

In January 2008, Rolando Garibotti and Colin Haley made the first complete traverse of the entire massif, climbing Aguja Standhardt, Punta Herron, Torre Egger and Cerro Torre together. They rate their route at YDS VI 5.11 A1 WI6 Mushroom Ice 6, with 2200-2NaN-2 total vertical gain. This had been "one of the world's most iconic, unclimbed lines", first attempted by Ermanno Salvaterra.[14]

External links

Notes and References

  1. 8645. Torre Egger, Argentina. 2014-06-10. Note: The prominence value given here was calculated from the difference between an elevation of 2850m for Torre Egger and 2575m for Col de la Conquista, the key col for Torre Egger.
  2. From Rodrigo Jordan, "Cerro Torre", in World Mountaineering, Audrey Salkeld, editor, Bulfinch Press,, p. 156: Cerro Torre rises "on the border between Chile and Argentina." However, Chile and Argentina have long-standing border disputes.
  3. http://www.huberbuam.de/aktuell/en/pat20051.htm Torre Egger 2005, Huberbuam
  4. Bragg . John . Torre Egger . American Alpine Journal . 21 . 51 . 49–56 . American Alpine Club . New York . 1977 . 978-0-930410-31-5 .
  5. Karo . Silvo . Torre Egger's Southeast Face . American Alpine Journal . 30 . 62 . 49–51 . American Alpine Club . New York . 1988 . 978-0-930410-33-9.
  6. Orlandi . Elio . The Eastern Pillar of Torre Egger . American Alpine Journal . 30 . 62 . 52–55 . American Alpine Club . New York . 1988 . 978-0-930410-33-9.
  7. Web site: Cerro y Agujas del Cordon Torre. Climbing in Patagonia. 2009-05-27. dead. https://web.archive.org/web/20090620000214/http://www.climbinginpatagonia.freeservers.com/To2_mocho.htm. 2009-06-20.
  8. Web site: Wild Times in Patagonia. 14 March 2005.
  9. Web site: Against the odds. TheGuardian.com. 5 May 2007.
  10. Web site: Steph Davis . Cerro Standhardt, New Route, Torre Egger, First One-Day And First Female Ascent . Alpinist.com . 2005-06-01 . 2022-08-12.
  11. Web site: EpicTV | Matteo della Bordella Describes First Route on West Face, Torre Egger, Patagonia - EpicTV . 2013-12-12 . dead . https://web.archive.org/web/20131212053319/http://daily.epictv.com/blog/2013/03/12/matteo-della-bordella-describes-first-route-on-west-face-torre-egger-patagonia/ . 2013-12-12 .
  12. Web site: Carpenter . Hayden . Marc-André Leclerc Solos Patagonia's Torre Egger in Winter . Rock and Ice . 28 September 2016 . 1 June 2019.
  13. Web site: Slavsky . Bennett . Marc-André’s Visión: New Route Established on Torre Egger in Honor of the Late Alpinist . Climbing.com . 3 March 2020 . 15 February 2023.
  14. Garibotti . Rolando . The Torre Traverse . Alpinist . 2008 . 25 . 52–59 . Alpinist Magazine . Jackson, Wyoming . September 2008 .

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