| Toni Dürnberger | |
| Birth Date: | 11 November 1932 |
| Birth Place: | Sankt Martin bei Lofer, Austria |
| Death Place: | Khan Tengri, Tian Shan |
Toni Dürnberger (11 September 1932 – 17 August 1992)[1] was an Austrian mountaineer and expedition leader.
From April to July 1962, Dürnberger led the Austro-German Expedition to Greenland (Österreichische Deutsche Grönland Expedition 1962) that climbed a number of unscaled peaks in the Sermilik sector from April to July 1962. The expedition climbed a total of 37 peaks in the area,[2] including some near the Southern Sermilik fjord.[3]
In 1966 Dürnberger led a second expedition that climbed for the first time remote Mount Paatusoq, considered the highest unclimbed peak in southern Greenland. Battling very difficult conditions, some of the team members fell into a crevasse and one of them was seriously injured.[4]
Together with Austrian expedition member Ernst Herzinger and German members Stefan Rausch and Alois Häusl, Toni Dürnberger published articles of geographical interest on the little-known areas of Greenland he visited.[5]
Toni Dürnberger died in a fall, together with his wife Elfi, while descending Khan Tengri after having successfully climbed the 7,010m high peak located in the Kyrgyzstan–Kazakhstan–China border on 17 August 1992.[6]