The Wheel of Life explained

The Wheel of Life
Map:Australia Victoria
Map Width:280
Location:Grampians National Park, Australia
Coordinates:-37.2078°N 142.3997°W
Climbing Area:Hollow Mountain Cave
Route Type:Bouldering
Vertical Gain:21m (69feet) (length of roof)
Grade: (as boulder route); (as sport climb)
First Ascent:Dai Koyamada, May 12, 2004

The Wheel of Life is a 21m (69feet) long sandstone bouldering route on the roof of the Hollow Mountain Cave in the Grampians of Australia. When first solved, it was graded at, one of the world's first-ever boulder routes at that grade. With repeats, it was graded at, and some consider it to really be a sport climbing traverse route, at the sport grade of .

History

The sandstone roof of the Hollow Mountain Cave in the Grampians attracted some of the leading boulderers, including Austrian Klem Loskot, Swiss Fred Nicole, and Dutchman Toni Lamprecht, who had created a web of hard bouldering routes. In 2000, when Nicole solved Sleepy Hollow at, it opened up the possibility of linking up a chain of all the routes across the roof of the cave, namely: Loskot's X-treme Cool, Nicole's Sleepy Hollow, Loskot's Cave Man, Loskot's Dead Can't Dance, and finally exiting via Loskot's Rave Heart .

Japanese climber Dai Koyamada traveled to the Hollow Mountain Cave in April 2004, with a plan to spend over 50 days bouldering in the area and working on the full link-up. As well as repeating many routes and creating many new routes in the area, he linked up Sleepy Hollow, Cave Man and Dead Can't Dance into a route he called Sleepy Rave and graded at . On May 12, 2004, Koyamada completed the full 70-move link-up and called it The Wheel of Life and proposed a boulder grade of, which would have made it the world's first-ever boulder at that grade.

It took three years for the first repeat, which was by Australian climber Chris Webb Parsons in 2007. On the recovery path from a serious injury, American climber Ethan Pringle made the third ascent in 2010 and suggested that the significant length of the route made it more akin to a sport climbing route, which he felt could be at sport-grade . American climber Dave Graham made the sixth ascent in 2012 and said that "For myself, it's not possible to compare it to other boulder problems, due to its length. I must regard it as a [sport] route", and that "The breakdown of the climb puts it in a league above 9a's that I have climbed, which makes me believe its 9a+". In 2013, American climber Daniel Woods made the ninth ascent and felt that it was no harder than as a boulder route, or (Ewbank 35) as a sport climbing route, because of the rests between sections.

Wood's grading became the consensus for the route, and by 2016, the additional development of kneepads that can be used for extended knee bar rests between the sections, has if anything slightly further softened the consensus grade.

Variations

In November 2012, Australian climber James Kassey linked The Wheel of Life to Amniotic World, and called it The Wheel of Life Direct. Kassey's variation was repeated in 2015 by Dutch climber, who felt that it did not change the then consensus grading of (as a boulder route) or Ewbank 35 (as a sport climbing route).

Ascents

The Wheel of Life has been ascended by:

Filmography

See also

External links

Notes and References

  1. Web site: . Koyamada Completes V16 . 17 May 2004 . 5 August 2023 . Dougald . MacDonald.
  2. Web site: UKClimbing . The wheel of life direct, ~8C+ . 27 June 2013 . 5 August 2023 . Bjorn . Pohl .
  3. Web site: . Second Ascent of V16 Boulder . 15 October 2007 . 5 August 2023 . Dougald . MacDonald.
  4. Web site: . Spotlight: The Double Life of Chris Webb Parsons . 15 December 2014 . 5 August 2023 . Chelsea . Brunkhorst.
  5. Web site: . The Wheel of Life 3rd Ascent: Interview with Ethan Pringle . 24 June 2010 . 5 August 2023 . Amanda . Fox.
  6. Web site: . Ethan Pringle on The Wheel of Life (V16/5.14d) . 17 August 2011 . 5 August 2023 . Amanda . Fox.
  7. Web site: . Wheel of Life (V16/5.14d) Repeated by Kassay . 8 September 2011 . 5 August 2023 . Amanda . Fox.
  8. Web site: . James Kassay Gets FA of Wheel of Life Direct, Australia . 16 November 2012 . 5 August 2023 . Bjorn . Pohl.
  9. Web site: . Video: James Kassay on the First Ascent of The Wheel of Life Direct (V16) . 27 June 2023 . 5 August 2023 . Chris . Parker.
  10. Web site: Jens . Larssen . Graham comments The Wheel of Life . 8a.nu . 13 June 2012 . 5 August 2023 .
  11. Web site: . Dave Graham chains 'The wheel of life' in the Grampians . es . es . 11 June 2012 . 5 August 2023.
  12. Web site: Amanda . Fox . . Ian Dory Climbs The Wheel of Life . 5 July 2012 . 5 August 2023 .
  13. Web site: . Alex Megos Sends The Wheel of Life (V15) . 5 August 2023 . July 2023 .
  14. Web site: . Alexander Megos on the Wheel of Life (V15) . 26 October 2013 . 5 August 2023 . Climbing Desk.
  15. Web site: . Alex Megos chains 'The wheel of life' in the Grampians in a couple of days . es . es . 11 July 2013 . 5 August 2023.
  16. Web site: . Daniel Woods: "The Wheel of Life is a 9a track without plates" . es . es . 23 August 2013 . 5 August 2023.
  17. Web site: . Woods Repeats Wheel of Life (V15/5.14d) in Grampians . 31 July 2023 . 5 August 2023 . Climbing Desk.
  18. Web site: . Jorg Verhoeven repeats 'The wheel of life' 8C and compares it with 'The nose' . es . es . 6 November 2015 . 5 August 2023.
  19. Web site: Gripped Magazine . Jorg Verhoeven Sends Wheel of Life V15 . 4 November 2015 . 5 August 2023.
  20. Web site: Wheel of Life 8C for Alex Barrows . Nathalie . Berry . 6 June 2016 . 5 August 2023 . UKClimbing . en.
  21. Web site: . Tom O’Halloran Sends The Wheel of Life (8C/V15) – Grampians . 31 October 2017 . 5 August 2023 . Thomas . Halloran.
  22. Web site: . Jake Bresnehan Going Round and Round on “The Wheel of Life” (V15) . 9 March 2019 . 5 August 2019.