Tapis (Indonesian weaving style) explained

Indonesian: Tapis
Type:Art Fabric
Material:silk, cotton, gold, silver
Location:Lampung, Indonesia[1] [2] [3] [4]

Tapis ({{script|Rjng|ꤳꤶꥇꤼ꥓; Indonesian: kain tapis or simply Indonesian: tapis) is a traditional Tenun style and also refers to resulting cloth that originated from Lampung, Indonesia.[5] [6] [7] [8] It consists of a striped, naturally-coloured cloth embroidered with warped and couched gold thread. Traditionally using floral motifs, it has numerous variations. It is generally worn ceremonially, although it can be used as a decoration. It is considered one of the symbols of Lampung and Lampungese.[9]

Production

Tapis is generally made by Lampungese women. It consists of a woven, naturally coloured fabric with warped gold and silk embroidery. The gold thread, shaped in stripes, chevrons, and checks, contrasts the colours of the fabric. Tapis can also be decorated with beads, mica chips, or old colonial coins.[10]

The gold embroidery is affixed using couching techniques, minimalizing waste. The gold thread is attached in sections, then couched with a different, less expensive, thread at turns. This ensures that none of the gold thread is used in a non-visible area.

Traditionally, tapis has floral motifs. However, modern tapis may also be based on the weaver's own design and include non-floral motifs, such as Arabic calligraphy.[10] Other designs may include snakes, ships, and mythical creatures. Some tapis, called tapis tua (old tapis), are covered entirely in golden embroidery.

Although generally produced by Lampungese home industries, tapis is also produced in other areas, including Kendal, Central Java and Pisang Island.

Use

Traditionally, tapis is worn as a sarong for weddings, Eid ul-Fitr celebrations, and welcoming ceremonies. However, tapis can also be used as a wall decoration.[10] When worn, it forms a cylinder around the wearer's legs.

Reception

Indonesian: Tapis has come to be seen as a symbol of Lampung.[11] Some people describes Indonesian: tapis as having "exceptional beauty and sophistication",[12] while some describes viewing Indonesian: tapis as "like seeing countless possibilities in art and life portrayed in cloth".

The price of Indonesian: tapis reflects its age. Generally, the older a Indonesian: tapis the more it costs. Antique Indonesian: tapis are also collectors items, collected by both Indonesians and foreigners.[11]

See also

References

Footnotes
Bibliography

Notes and References

  1. Book: Totton, Mary Louise . 2009 . Wearing Wealth and Styling Identity: Tapis from Lampung, South Sumatra, Indonesia . Hanover, New Hampshire, United States of America . Hood Museum of Art, Dartmouth College. 978-0944722374.
  2. Mary . Louise Totton . 1994 . A Red Ikat Tapis: Ships and the Lands Beyond. Bulletin of the Detroit Institute of Arts . 68 . 3 . 4–15 . 10.1086/DIA41504888 . 187976059 . 15 March 2021.
  3. Richter. Anne. 1994 . Arts and crafts of Indonesia . Chronicle Books LLC.
  4. Wardwell . Anne E . 1985. Tapis: A Rare Sarong from South Sumatra . The Bulletin of the Cleveland Museum of Art  . 72 . 5.
  5. Book: Totton, Mary Louise . 2009 . Wearing Wealth and Styling Identity: Tapis from Lampung, South Sumatra, Indonesia . Hanover, New Hampshire, United States of America . Hood Museum of Art, Dartmouth College. 978-0944722374.
  6. Mary . Louise Totton . 1994 . A Red Ikat Tapis: Ships and the Lands Beyond. Bulletin of the Detroit Institute of Arts . 68 . 3 . 4–15 . 10.1086/DIA41504888 . 187976059 . 15 March 2021.
  7. Richter. Anne. 1994 . Arts and crafts of Indonesia . Chronicle Books LLC.
  8. Wardwell . Anne E . 1985. Tapis: A Rare Sarong from South Sumatra . The Bulletin of the Cleveland Museum of Art  . 72 . 5.
  9. Subagio . Puji Yosep. 1999 . North Coast Java Batik. Tokyo University . 15 March 2021.
  10. Web site: Lampung offers a whole lot more besides jungle adventures. Nia S. Kim. 10 June 2001. The Jakarta Post. 6 August 2011. 12 October 2012. https://web.archive.org/web/20121012165552/http://www.thejakartapost.com/news/2001/06/10/lampung-offers-a-whole-lot-more-besides-jungle-adventures.html. dead.
  11. Web site: Rusiana Makki, empowering women through 'tapis' . Oyos Saroso . 22 January 2007 . The Jakarta Post . 6 August 2011 . 24 March 2012 . https://web.archive.org/web/20120324192352/http://images.thejakartapost.com/news/2007/01/22/rusiana-makki-empowering-women-through-039tapis039.html . dead .
  12. Web site: Journeying through textile traditions . Stevie Emilia. 10 April 2011. The Jakarta Post . 6 August 2011.