Stefano Ghisolfi Explained
| Stefano Ghisolfi |
| Birth Date: | 18 February 1993 |
| Birth Place: | Turin, Italy |
| Occupation: | Professional rock climber |
| Height: | 170 cm |
| Weight: | 58 kg |
| Apeindex: | +4cm |
| Updated: | December 7, 2018 |
| Show-Medals: | yes |
Stefano Ghisolfi (born February 18, 1993) is an Italian professional rock climber, who specializes in competition climbing, sport climbing, and bouldering. In competition climbing, he completes in competition lead climbing, competition bouldering, and competition speed climbing, with lead being his strongest discipline. As a sport climber, he has redpointed sport climbing routes of grade, onsighted routes of, and solved boulder problems at grade . In December 2018, after climbing Perfecto Mundo, he became the fourth climber in history to redpoint a route.
Climbing career
Competition climbing
In 2007, Ghisolfi participated in his first international competition: the IFSC European Youth Cup.
Both in 2010 and 2011, he won the bronze medal in Lead climbing at the IFSC World Youth Championships.In the same years, he also participated in the IFSC World Championships as a senior competitor, for all disciplines (lead, bouldering, and speed) and placed tenth in the overall ranking.
On October 13, 2012, he first got on the podium in the World Cup, obtaining a bronze medal in Xining, China. He obtained gold medals in the World Cup stages at Wujiang (China), in 2014, Xiamen (China), in 2016, and then again at Wujiang (China), in 2017.
Rock climbing
On November 2, 2015, he made the first free ascent (FFA) of Lapsus, in Andonno (Italy), a 70-hold sport climbing route for which he proposed a grade of .
On December 7, 2018, after climbing the sport route Perfecto Mundo (Margalef, ESP), he became the fourth climber in history to redpoint a route at that grade, after Adam Ondra, Chris Sharma, and Alex Megos.
On September 2, 2020, he made the second ascent of , in Flatanger, Norway; the first-ever 9b+ route in history, established by Adam Ondra in 2012.[1]
On August 24, 2021, he made the second ascent of Bibliographie, in Céüse, France. Originally graded with a proposed 9c (5.15d) rating, the route was first established by Alex Megos. Ghisolfi then downgraded it to 9b+.[2]
On February 2, 2023, made the FFA of Excalibur, in Arco, in Italy, for which he proposed a grade of .[3]
Rankings
Climbing World Cup
| Discipline | 2009 | 2010 | 2011 | 2012 | 2013 | 2014 | 2015 | 2016 | 2017 | 2018 | 2019 | 2021 |
|---|
| Lead | | 21 | 24 | 10 | 10 | 9 | 9 | 4 | 2 | 2 | 5 | 1 |
| Bouldering | | 65 | 83 | | | 30 | | | | | 41 | |
| Speed | 17 | 30 | 38 | | | | | | | | | |
| Combined | | 10 | 10 | | | 4 | | | 9 | | | | |
Climbing World Championships
Youth[4]
| Discipline | 2008
Youth B | 2009
Youth A | 2010
Youth A | 2011
Juniors | 2012
Juniors |
|---|
| Lead | 5 | 15 | 3 | 3 | 13 |
| Speed | 5 | 6 | 5 | - | 17 | |
Adult
| Discipline | 2011 | 2012 | 2014 | 2016 | 2018 |
|---|
| Lead | 27 | 16 | 10 | 7 | 22 |
| Bouldering | 25 | 16 | | | |
| Speed | 30 | 33 | | | | |
Climbing European Championships
Youth
Adult
| Discipline | 2010 | 2013 | 2015 | 2017 |
|---|
| Lead | 37 | 16 | 7 | 10 |
| Bouldering | 37 | 35 | 35 | - |
| Speed | 18 | 32 | 26 | - | |
Number of medals in the Climbing World Cup
Lead
| Season | Gold | Silver | Bronze | Total |
|---|
| 2012 | | | 1 | 1 |
| 2013 | | | | 0 |
| 2014 | 1 | | | 1 |
| 2015 | | | | 0 |
| 2016 | 1 | 1 | | 2 |
| 2017 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 3 |
| 2018 | 2 | 2 | | 4 |
| 2019 | | | 1 | 1 |
| 2020 | | | | 0 |
| 2021 | 1 | 2 | | 3 |
| Total | 6 | 6 | 3 | 15 | |
Number of medals in the Climbing European Youth Cup
Lead
| Season | Category | Gold | Silver | Bronze | Total |
|---|
| 2011 | Juniors | 1 | | 3 | 4 |
| 2012 | Juniors | | 1 | | 1 |
| Total | 1 | 1 | 3 | 5 | |
Speed
| Season | Category | Gold | Silver | Bronze | Total |
|---|
| 2011 | Juniors | | | 2 | 2 |
| Total | 0 | 0 | 2 | 2 | |
Rock climbing
- Perfecto Mundo - Margalef (ESP) - December 7, 2018 - First repeat, first ascent was by Alex Megos, 2018
- Excalibur - Arco (ITA) - February 5, 2023 - First ascent.
- L'Arenauta - Sperlonga (ITA) - February 10, 2022 - First ascent.
- The Lonely Mountain - Arco (ITA) - December 17, 2021 - First Ascent.
- Erebor - Arco (ITA) - January 11, 2021 - First Ascent. Originally graded 9b/+, downgraded by Adam Ondra.
- One Slap - Arco (ITA) - November 22, 2017 - First ascent by Adam Ondra, 2017
- First Round, First Minute - Margalef (ESP) - January 30, 2017[6]
- Lapsus - Andonno (ITA) - November 2, 2015 - First ascent
- Ultimatum - Massone (Arco, (ITA)) - December 19, 2016[9]
- Jungle Boogie - Céüse (FRA) - October 2, 2016
- Thunder Ribes - Massone (Arco, (ITA)) - December 16, 2016 - Combination of the routes Reini's Vibes, Ultima Pietra, and Stonehenge.
- L'Attimo - Covolo (ITA) - October 11, 2015[13] - First ascent by Silvio Reffo, 2012
- Underground - Massone (Arco, (ITA)) - July 5, 2014 - First ascent by Manfred Stuffer, 1998
- Biologico - Narango (Arco, (ITA)) - June 8, 2014 - First ascent by Adam Ondra, 2012
- TCT - Gravere (ITA) - May 31, 2014 - First ascent
- Grandi Gesti - Grotta dell'Arenauta (Sperlonga, ITA) - December 30, 2013 - First ascent by Gianluca Daniele, 2009
- Ground Zero - Tetto di Sarre (ITA) - June 9, 2013 - First ascent by Alberto Gnerro, 2002
- Fish Eye - Oliana (ESP) - January 8, 2017
- Falconeti - Montsant (ESP) - January 2013
- L-mens - Montsant (ESP) - January 2013
Ghisolfi climbed five and two boulder problems.
He won the 2013, 2014, 2015 and 2016 editions of Melloblocco.[14]
See also
External links
Notes and References
- Web site: Second Ascent of Change 9b+ by Stefano Ghisolfi. Natalie Berry. September 28, 2020. October 14, 2020.
- Web site: Et bam... Stefano Ghisolfi décote Bibliographie à 9b+.... August 27, 2021. August 27, 2021.
- Web site: dmiller . 2023-02-22 . Stefano Ghisolfi On Prying Excalibur From the Stone, Exclusive Q&A . 2023-05-14 . Climbing . en.
- http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition/calendar#!comp=1260&cat=18 WY Championships 2011, not included in Ghisolfi's IFSC profile
- Web site: NEWSFLASH: Second Ascent of Change 9b+ by Stefano Ghisolfi. 2020-09-29. www.ukclimbing.com. 28 September 2020 . en.
- Web site: First Round, First Minute is done! Today I finally climbed my second 9b, FA. https://ghostarchive.org/iarchive/instagram/steghiso/1439332844089822751 . 2021-12-25 . registration. January 30, 2017. January 30, 2017.
- Web site: Stefano Ghisolfi sale La Rambla a Siurana al quarto tentativo. planetmountain.com. March 21, 2017. March 20, 2017.
- Web site: Stefano Ghisolfi e Pietro Biagini, grandi salite a Margalef e Varazze. planetmountain.com. February 14, 2017. January 31, 2017.
- Web site: Stefano Ghisolfi chiude Ultimatum a Massone, nuovo 9a+ ad Arco. planetmountain.com. December 20, 2016. December 27, 2016.
- Web site: Stefano Ghisolfi chiude Biographie 9a+ a Ceuse. planetmountain.com. June 23, 2015. July 7, 2015.
- Web site: Stefano Ghisolfi risolve Demencia Senil 9a+ a Margalef. planetmountain.com. March 15, 2015. November 4, 2015.
- Web site: Stefano Ghisolfi, primo 9a+ con Le moustache qui fâche. planetmountain.com. August 25, 2014. July 7, 2015.
- Web site: Stefano Ghisolfi da 9a in un weekend al Covolo. planetmountain.com. October 13, 2015. November 4, 2015.
- Web site: Melloblocco 2013: day ten, l'arrivederci alla Valle. planetmountain.com. May 5, 2013. May 6, 2013.
