Sportroccia Explained

Sportroccia was the very first international climbing competition. Four annual Sportroccia editions were held in 1985, 1986, 1988, and 1989, in the village of Bardonecchia and Arco, Italy.^{[1] [2]}

History

The first edition of Sportroccia was organized in 1985 on the initiative of Andrea Mellano, a strong climber of the '60s and a member of the Italian Academic Alpine Club, and the journalist and writer Emmanuel Cassara. The jury was composed of Riccardo Cassin, Oscar Soravito, Maurizio Zanolla and Heinz Mariacher.^[3] The competition was contested on the Parete dei Militi (Wall of the Soldiers) in Valle Stretta, near Bardonecchia. The fact that the races were held on the rock and not on artificial walls put the organizers in the vanguard of several issues that eventually led to moving climbing competitions to artificial walls only.

• In 1985 and 1986, Sportroccia was also used to proclaim the Italian champion, giving the title to the best Italian athletes in the competition.
• In 1986, the event was divided into two stages: the first in Arco on the wall of Colodri, and the second in Bardonecchia.
• In 1987, Sportroccia gave way for the first time to Rock Master in Arco, but the event was still held on the rock, not yet on an artificial wall.
• In 1988 began the artificial wall era.
• In 1989 the competition became a stage of the newly formed World Cup of rock climbing.
• In 2005, during the annual events, a conference was held in Bardonecchia, called "1985-2005 Sportroccia twenty years after, the future of sport climbing."^[4]

Editions

Sportroccia 85

The competition was held from July 5 to 7.

Best Italian (men): Roberto Bassi (7th), Andrea Gallo (8th).

Pos.	Men	Women
1	Stefan Glowacz	France Catherine Destivelle
2	France Jacky Godoffe	Italy Luisa Iovane
3	France Thierry Renault	France Martine Rolland

Sportroccia 86

The competition was held from July 11 to 13. Only Patrick Edlinger finished the final climb, which was named Caduta degli dei, 7c+ ("Damned").

Best Italian: Roberto Bassi (men) (10th) and Rosanna Manfrini (women).

Pos.	Men	Women
1	France Patrick Edlinger	France Catherine Destivelle
2	United Kingdom Ben Moon	United States Lynn Hill
3	France Jacky Godoffe	France Isabelle Patissier

Sportroccia 88

The competition was held from July 15 to 17.

Pos.	Men	Women
1	France Didier Raboutou	France Catherine Destivelle
2	France Jean-Baptiste Tribout	France Isabelle Patissier
3	Belgium Arnould T'Kint	Italy Luisa Iovane

Sportroccia 89

The competition was held from July 14 to 16. The 1989 edition of Sportroccia also represents the third stage of the Lead Climbing World Cup, 1989.

Best Italian: Nicola Sartori (men) (4th).

Pos.	Men	Women
1	United Kingdom Simon Nadin	France Nanette Raybaud
2	United Kingdom Jerry Moffatt	France Corinne Labrune
3	France Didier Raboutou	Italy Luisa Iovane

References

Further reading

• Giulio Malfer, Vinicio Stefanello, Rock Master, Nicolodi, 2005.
• Rivista della Montagna - N.70 settembre 1985, pp. 400–407 - Fatti e notizie: speciale gare
• ALP - N.17 settembre 1986, pp. 30–33 - Arco e Bardonecchia Sportroccia '86
• Rivista della Montagna - N.79 ottobre 1986, pp. 84–87 - Carnet d'alpinismo: le gare ad Arco e a Bardonecchia
• Rivista della Montagna - N.113 novembre 1989, pp. 14–16 - Carnet d'alpinismo: Bardonecchia, Arco e le altre gare
• ALP - N.43 novembre 1988, pp. 46–59 - Le gare di Bardonecchia e di Arco
• Punto Rosso - N.1 gennaio 1991, p. 7 - La strada delle competizioni

Notes and References

1. Web site: . A brief history of competition climbing. Toby . Dunne . 17 August 2021 . 20 December 2022 .
2. Web site: Gripped Magazine . A History of Climbing Competitions Since 1985 . 15 July 2019 . 24 February 2023.
3. Web site: Il nuovo Palaroccia di Torino.
4. Web site: 1985-2005 Bardonecchia 20 anni dopo. dead. https://web.archive.org/web/20131012071946/http://www.planetmountain.com/News/shownews4.lasso?keyid=34896. 2013-10-12.