Sport climbing at the 2020 Summer Olympics – Women's combined explained

Event:Women's combined
Games:2020 Summer
Venue:Aomi Urban Sports Park, Tokyo
Dates:4 August 2021 (qualification)
6 August 2021 (final)
Competitors:20
Nations:15
Gold:Janja Garnbret
Goldnoc:SLO
Silver:Miho Nonaka
Silvernoc:JPN
Bronze:Akiyo Noguchi
Bronzenoc:JPN
Next:2024

The women's combined event at the 2020 Summer Olympics was a climbing competition combining three disciplines (speed, bouldering, lead). It took place between 4 and 6 August 2021 at the Aomi Urban Sports Park in Tokyo.[1] 20 athletes from 15 nations competed. Sport climbing was one of four new sports added to the Olympic program for 2020.

The medals for the competition were presented by Ivo Ferriani, IOC Executive Member, Italy, Olympian; and the medalists' bouquets were presented by Marco Maria Scolaris, IFSC President; Italy.

Qualification

See main article: Sport climbing at the 2020 Summer Olympics – Qualification.

Competition format

In the qualification round each of the twenty competitors competed in speed climbing, bouldering and lead climbing. The scores were multiplied and the 8 competitors with the lowest total scores proceeded to the finals.[2]

In speed climbing, climbers raced against each others in pairs on a standardized wall of 15m in height. In the qualification round, climbers had two runs on two different lanes; their best times were recorded and used for seeding placement in the Finals. In the final round, climbers raced head-to-head with the fastest winning.

In bouldering, climbers needed to top boulder problems set on 4.5m-high wall within a certain amount of time. In the qualification round, climbers were faced with 4 boulder problems and given 5 minutes on each problem to top them. The final round had 3 boulder problems to top within a 4 minutes time limit.

In lead climbing, climbers were given a route set on 15m-high wall to top within 6 minutes. If there was a tie, the climber with the fastest elapsed time won.

Route-setting

Speed climbing wall is standardized: 15 meters tall, 5 degrees overhanging. Bouldering and lead climbing have route-setting teams.

The bouldering route-setters were Percy Bishton (chief) from the United Kingdom, Manuel Hassler from Switzerland, Romain Cabessut from France and Garrett Gregor from the United States.[3] [4]

The lead route-setters were Adam Pustelnik (chief) from Poland, Jan Zbranek from Czech Republic, Hiroshi Okano and Akito Matsushima from Japan.[5]

Records

Prior to this competition, the existing world and Olympic records were as follows.The following records were established during the competition:

DateRoundClimberNationTimeRecord
August 4align=left Speed QualificationAleksandra Mirosław6.97[6]
August 6align=left Speed FinalAleksandra Mirosław6.84[7] WR

Schedule

All times are Japan Standard Time (UTC+9)

Date[8] TimeRound
Wednesday, 4 August 2021 17:00Speed Qualification
18:00Bouldering Qualification
21:10Lead Qualification
Friday, 6 August 2021 17:30 Speed Final
18:30Bouldering Final
21:10Lead Final

Results

Qualification

The top 8 climbers of 20 advanced to the finals.

RankClimberNationSpeed[9] Bouldering[10] Lead[11] Total[12] Notes
1234Results
1 9.44 10.32 14 T1z1 T1z1 T1z1 T1z1 4T4z 4 4 1 30 4 56.00
2 10.01 11.74 17 T3z1 T2z2 z1 z1 2T4z 5 5 5 40+ 1 85.00
3 7.55 7.74 4 T2z1 z1 z1 – 1T3z 2 3 8 30+ 3 96.00
4 8.27 8.23 9 T2z1 z1 T2z1 T1z1 3T4z 5 4 3 27+ 6 162.00
5 8.67 8.81 12 T2z1 T1z1 z1 T1z1 3T4z 4 4 2 26+ 3:40 8 192.00
6 8.51 8.63 11 T3z1 z3 z1 – 1T3z 3 5 9 33+ 2 198.00
7 6.97 7.01 1 – – – – 0T0z 0 0 20 12 19 380.00
8 7.12 7.29 2 T4z1 – – – 1T1z 4 1 13 16+ 2:14 15 390.00
9 9.54 9.73 15 T6z1 T2z2 z1 z1 2T4z 8 5 6 29+ 5 450.00
10 9.65 10.07 16 T2z1 T1z1 z1 z1 2T4z 3 4 4 21+ 2:23 13 832.00
11 8.12 8.08 7 T4z1 – z1 z3 1T3z 4 5 11 22+ 11 847.00
12 8.74 7.46 3 z5 – – – 0T1z 0 5 19 13+ 18 1026.00
13 8.43 8.17 8 z1 z7 z1 – 0T3z 0 9 15 25+ 9 1080.00
14 8.17 7.99 6 z1 – z1 – 0T2z 0 2 16 21+ 2:14 12 1152.00
15 10.50 Fall 19 z1 z2 T1z1 z1 1T4z 1 5 7 25 10 1330.00
16 8.42 8.67 10 T3z1 z3 z4 – 1T3z 3 8 10 16+ 1:49 14 1400.00
17 Iuliia Kaplina7.65 Fall 5 z2 – – – 0T1z 0 2 18 14+ 17 1530.00
18 10.44 10.43 18 z1 z1 z1 z2 0T4z 0 5 14 26+ 3:16 7 1764.00
19 8.83 9.38 13 T3z1 – z1 – 1T2z 3 2 12 15+ 16 2496.00
20 Fall 11.10 20 z1 – – – 0T1z 0 1 17 7+ 20 6800.00

Final

RankClimberNationSpeed[13] Bouldering[14] Lead[15] Total [16]
QuarterfinalsSemifinalsFinals123Results
3 6 10 5 T4z1 T1z1 z1 2T3z 5 3 1 37+ 1 5
4 8 11 3 – z4 z1 0T2z 0 5 321 5 45
2 7 11 4 z5 z2 – 0T2z 0 7 4 29+ 4 64
4 1 7 12 WR 1 – – – 0T0z 0 0 8 9+ 8 64
5 4 6 9 7 z5 z3 z2 0T3z 0 10 220+ 6 84
6 3 8 12 2 z2 – – 0T1z 0 2 6 13+ 7 84
7 2 5 10 6 z7 z3 – 0T2z 0 10 5 34+ 3 90
8 1 5 9 8 – – – 0T0z 0 0 7 35+ 2 112

Notes and References

  1. Web site: Sport Climbing – Olympic Schedule & Results . Olympics . 3 August 2021 . 24 July 2021 . https://web.archive.org/web/20210724085512/https://olympics.com/tokyo-2020/olympic-games/en/results/sport-climbing/olympic-schedule-and-results.htm . live .
  2. Web site: Sport Climbing. 3 August 2021. Olympics. 2 July 2021. https://web.archive.org/web/20210702085642/https://olympics.com/tokyo-2020/en/sports/sport-climbing/. live.
  3. Web site: 2020-02-20. Interview: Olympic Bouldering Chief Route-Setter Percy Bishton. 2021-08-01. Climbing. 1 August 2021. https://web.archive.org/web/20210801094737/https://www.climbing.com/competition/interview-olympic-bouldering-chief-route-setter-percy-bishton/. live.
  4. Web site: Percy Bishton, IFSC Chief Route-setter Bouldering, talks Tokyo 2020 Olympic Games. 2021-07-31. PlanetMountain.com. en. 4 August 2021. https://web.archive.org/web/20210804112418/https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/percy-bishton-ifsc-chief-route-setter-bouldering-talks-tokyo-2020-olympics.html. live.
  5. Web site: Adam Pustelnik, IFSC Chief Route-setter Lead, talks Tokyo 2020 Olympic Games. 2021-08-04. PlanetMountain.com. en. 2 August 2021. https://web.archive.org/web/20210802110323/https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/adam-pustelnik-ifsc-chief-route-setter-lead-talks-tokyo-2020-olympic-games.html. live.
  6. Web site: Sport Climbing – Olympic Records | Tokyo 2020. olympics.com. 7 October 2021. 26 September 2021. https://web.archive.org/web/20210926135432/https://olympics.com/tokyo-2020/olympic-games//en/results/sport-climbing/records.htm. live.
  7. Web site: Polish climber Aleksandra Miroslaw breaks speed climbing world record in Olympic final | NBC Olympics. www.nbcolympics.com. 7 August 2021. 7 August 2021. https://web.archive.org/web/20210807044724/https://www.nbcolympics.com/news/polish-climber-aleksandra-miroslaw-breaks-speed-climbing-world-record-olympic-final. live.
  8. Web site: Sport Climbing – Olympic Schedule & Results Tokyo 2020. live. 2021-08-03. Olympics.com/tokyo-2020/. Tokyo Organising Committee of the Olympic and Paralympic Games. en-us. 24 July 2021. https://web.archive.org/web/20210724085512/https://olympics.com/tokyo-2020/olympic-games/en/results/sport-climbing/olympic-schedule-and-results.htm.
  9. Web site: en. Sport Climbing – Women's Combined – Speed Qualification. Tokyo 2020. 2021-08-04. PDF. 2021-08-04. 2021-08-04. https://web.archive.org/web/20210804115240/https://olympics.com/tokyo-2020/olympic-games/resOG2020-/pdf/OG2020-/CLB/OG2020-_CLB_C73S_CLBWCOMBINED----------QUAL0001SP--.pdf.
  10. Web site: en. Sport Climbing – Women's Combined – Bouldering Qualualification. Tokyo 2020. 2021-08-04. PDF. 2021-08-04. 2021-08-04. https://web.archive.org/web/20210804115240/https://olympics.com/tokyo-2020/olympic-games/resOG2020-/pdf/OG2020-/CLB/OG2020-_CLB_C73B_CLBWCOMBINED----------QUAL0001BL--.pdf.
  11. Web site: en. Sport Climbing – Women's Combined – Lead Qualification. Tokyo 2020. 2021-08-04. PDF. https://web.archive.org/web/20210804135316/https://olympics.com/tokyo-2020/olympic-games/resOG2020-/pdf/OG2020-/CLB/OG2020-_CLB_C73L_CLBWCOMBINED----------QUAL0001LD--.pdf. 2021-08-04. 2021-08-04.
  12. Web site: en. Sport Climbing – Women's Combined – Qualification. Tokyo 2020. 2021-08-04. PDF. https://web.archive.org/web/20210804135230/https://olympics.com/tokyo-2020/olympic-games/resOG2020-/pdf/OG2020-/CLB/OG2020-_CLB_C74_CLBWCOMBINED----------QUAL--------.pdf. 2021-08-04. 2021-08-04.
  13. Web site: Sport Climbing – Women's Combined – Speed Final Brackets. live. 7 August 2021. 6 August 2021. https://web.archive.org/web/20210806120324/https://olympics.com/tokyo-2020/olympic-games/resOG2020-/pdf/OG2020-/CLB/OG2020-_CLB_C75S_CLBWCOMBINED----------FNL-0001SP--.pdf.
  14. Web site: Sport Climbing – Women's Combined – Bouldering Final Results. live. 7 August 2021. 6 August 2021. https://web.archive.org/web/20210806120317/https://olympics.com/tokyo-2020/olympic-games/resOG2020-/pdf/OG2020-/CLB/OG2020-_CLB_C73B_CLBWCOMBINED----------FNL-0001BL--.pdf.
  15. Web site: Sport Climbing – Women's Combined – Lead Final Results. live. 7 August 2021. 6 August 2021. https://web.archive.org/web/20210806131538/https://olympics.com/tokyo-2020/olympic-games/resOG2020-/pdf/OG2020-/CLB/OG2020-_CLB_C73L_CLBWCOMBINED----------FNL-0001LD--.pdf.
  16. Web site: Sport Climbing – Women's Combined – Final Results Summary. live. 7 August 2021. 6 August 2021. https://web.archive.org/web/20210806131528/https://olympics.com/tokyo-2020/olympic-games/resOG2020-/pdf/OG2020-/CLB/OG2020-_CLB_C74_CLBWCOMBINED----------FNL---------.pdf.

This article is licensed under the GNU Free Documentation License. It uses material from the Wikipedia article "Sport climbing at the 2020 Summer Olympics – Women's combined".

Except where otherwise indicated, Everything.Explained.Today is © Copyright 2009-2024, A B Cryer, All Rights Reserved. Cookie policy.