Sport climbing at the 2020 Summer Olympics – Men's combined explained

Event:Men's combined
Games:2020 Summer
Venue:Aomi Urban Sports Park, Tokyo
Dates:3 August 2021 (qualification)
5 August 2021 (final)
Competitors:20
Nations:15
Win Value:28
Win Label:Winning Score
Gold:Alberto Ginés López
Goldnoc:ESP
Silver:Nathaniel Coleman
Silvernoc:USA
Bronze:Jakob Schubert
Bronzenoc:AUT
Next:2024

The men's combined event at the 2020 Summer Olympics was a climbing competition combining three disciplines (speed, bouldering, lead). It was held from August 3 to August 5, 2021 at the Aomi Urban Sports Park in Tokyo.[1] A total of 20 athletes from 15 nations competed. Sport climbing was one of four new sports added to the Olympic program for 2020.

During the qualifying round, Bassa Mawem of France suffered an injury to his lower bicep tendon in his left arm and was forced to withdraw from the final.[2]

Qualification

See main article: Sport climbing at the 2020 Summer Olympics – Qualification.

Competition format

In the qualification round each of the twenty competitors competed in speed climbing, bouldering and lead climbing. The scores were multiplied and the 8 competitors with the lowest total scores proceeded to the finals.[3]

In speed climbing, climbers raced against each others in pairs on a standardized wall of 15m in height. In the qualification round, climbers had two runs on two different lanes; their best times were recorded and used for seeding placement in the Final rounds. In the final round, climbers raced head-to-head with the fastest to the top winning.

In bouldering, climbers needed to top boulder problems set on 4.5m-high wall within a certain amount of time. In the qualification round, climbers were faced with 4 boulder problems and given 5 minutes on each problem to top them. The final round had 3 boulder problems to top within a 4 minutes time limit.

In lead climbing, climbers were given a route set on 15m-high wall to top within 6 minutes. If there was a tie, the climber with the fastest elapsed time won.

Route-setting

Speed climbing wall is standardized: 15 meters tall, 5 degrees overhanging. Bouldering and lead climbing have route-setting teams.

The bouldering route-setters were Percy Bishton (chief) from the United Kingdom, Manuel Hassler from Switzerland, Romain Cabessut from France and Garrett Gregor from the United States.[4] [5]

The lead route-setters were Adam Pustelnik (chief) from Poland, Jan Zbranek from Czech Republic, Hiroshi Okano and Akito Matsushima from Japan.[6]

Records

Prior to this competition, the existing world and Olympic records were as follows.

The following records were established during the competition:

Schedule

All times are Japan Standard Time (UTC+9)

Date[8] TimeRound
Tuesday, 3 August 2021 17:00Speed Qualification
18:00Bouldering Qualification
21:10Lead Qualification
Thursday, 5 August 2021 17:30 Speed Final
18:30Bouldering Final
21:10Lead Final

Results

Qualification

The top 8 climbers of 20 advanced to the Finals.

RankClimberNationSpeed[9] Bouldering[10] Lead[11] Total [12] Notes
1234Results
1 5.95 7.75 3 T2z2 T1z1 T1z1 z1 3T4z 4 5 1 28+ 2:24 11 33.00
2 5.94 2 T2z1 T4z4 z1 z1 2T4z 6 7 2 26+ 2:11 14 56.00
3 6.23 6.85 6 T10z6 – T7z6 – 2T2z 17 12 5 42+ 4:44 2 60.00
4 6.70 6.94 12 z9 – z3 T2z1 1T3z 2 13 7 42+ 4:02 1 84.00
5 7.46 8.16 18 T4z4 – z4 T3z3 2T3z 7 11 3 39+ 4 216.00
6 6.48 6.32 7 – – T12z4 – 1T1z 12 4 14 41+3 294.00
7 5.45 5.67 1 z4 – – – 0T1z 0 4 18 7 20 360.00
8 6.51 6.52 10 z1 – T4z3 z2 1T3z 4 6 11 395 550.00
9 9.89 7.47 19 T2z1 z6 z7 z1 1T4z 2 15 6 36+ 6 684.00
10 6.21 Fall 5 z4 – T3z3 z3 1T3z 3 10 10 26+ 2:34 16 800.00
11 6.90 6.19 4 – – z3 – 0T1z 0 3 17 28+ 3:09 13 884.00
12 6.63 Fall 11 z2 – T3z3 z3 1T3z 3 8 9 29+9 891.00
13 8.09 7.23 16 T6z3 – – T1z1 2T2z 7 4 4 26+2:29 15 960.00
14 8.63 7.59 20 T2z2 – z12 z1 1T3z 2 15 8 36 7 1120.00
15 6.33 6.46 8 T5z5 – z2 – 1T2z 5 7 13 28+ 2:33 12 1248.00
16 6.48 7.55 9 z7 – z8 – 0T2z 0 15 16 2910 1440.00
17 9.18 6.93 14 z2 – z1 – 0T2z 0 3 15 35+ 8 1680.00
18 Fall 7.08 15 T4z1 – z7 – 1T2z 4 8 12 25+ 17 3060.00
19 6.71 7.39 13 – – – – 0T0z 0 0 19.5 25 2:48 18 4563.00
20 7.34 12.20 17 – – – – 0T0z 0 0 19.5 25 3:58 19 6298.50

Final

RankClimberNationSpeed[13] [14] Bouldering[15] Lead[16] Total [17]
Quarterfinals SemifinalsFinals123Results
2 7 12 1z1 z7 z10T3z 0 9738+428
Nathaniel Coleman4 6 10 6T1z1 T3z2 z1 2T3z 4 4134+530
Jakob Schubert3 6 9 7T1z1z5z11T3z 1 75Top135
4 Tomoa Narasaki3 8 12 2T1z1z3z11T3z 1 5333+636
5 Mickaël Mawem4 8 11 3T1z1z1z11T3z 1 3223+742
6 Adam Ondra1 7 11 4T2z1– z11T2z 2 2642+ 248
7 Colin Duffy2 5 10 5T1z1z3z11T3z 1 5440 360
8 Bassa Mawem1 5 9 8– ––88512
* Injured and could not compete.

Notes and References

  1. Web site: Sport Climbing – Olympic Schedule & Results . Olympics . 3 August 2021 . 24 July 2021 . https://web.archive.org/web/20210724085512/https://olympics.com/tokyo-2020/olympic-games/en/results/sport-climbing/olympic-schedule-and-results.htm . live .
  2. Web site: 2021-08-04. Climbing-Injury forces France's Bassa Mawem out of men's final. 2021-08-04. Reuters. 4 August 2021. https://web.archive.org/web/20210804112416/https://www.reuters.com/lifestyle/sports/climbing-injury-forces-frances-bassa-mawem-out-mens-final-2021-08-04/. live.
  3. Web site: Sport Climbing . Olympics . 3 August 2021 . 2 July 2021 . https://web.archive.org/web/20210702085642/https://olympics.com/tokyo-2020/en/sports/sport-climbing/ . live .
  4. Web site: 2020-02-20. Interview: Olympic Bouldering Chief Route-Setter Percy Bishton. 2021-08-01. Climbing. 1 August 2021. https://web.archive.org/web/20210801094737/https://www.climbing.com/competition/interview-olympic-bouldering-chief-route-setter-percy-bishton/. live.
  5. Web site: Percy Bishton, IFSC Chief Route-setter Bouldering, talks Tokyo 2020 Olympic Games. 2021-07-31. PlanetMountain.com. en. 4 August 2021. https://web.archive.org/web/20210804112418/https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/percy-bishton-ifsc-chief-route-setter-bouldering-talks-tokyo-2020-olympics.html. live.
  6. Web site: Adam Pustelnik, IFSC Chief Route-setter Lead, talks Tokyo 2020 Olympic Games. 2021-08-04. PlanetMountain.com. en. 2 August 2021. https://web.archive.org/web/20210802110323/https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/adam-pustelnik-ifsc-chief-route-setter-lead-talks-tokyo-2020-olympic-games.html. live.
  7. Web site: Sport climbing at Tokyo 2020: Records set at Olympic debut. Tokyo 2020. 7 August 2021. 7 August 2021. https://web.archive.org/web/20210807044724/https://olympics.com/tokyo-2020/en/news/bassa-mawem-dominates-speed-climbing-tokyo-2020. live.
  8. Web site: Sport Climbing – Olympic Schedule & Results Tokyo 2020. live. 2021-08-03. Olympics.com/tokyo-2020/. Tokyo Organising Committee of the Olympic and Paralympic Games. en-us. 24 July 2021. https://web.archive.org/web/20210724085512/https://olympics.com/tokyo-2020/olympic-games/en/results/sport-climbing/olympic-schedule-and-results.htm.
  9. Web site: Sport Climbing – Men's Combined – Speed Qualification Results. TOCOG. 3 August 2021. 3 August 2021. 3 August 2021. https://web.archive.org/web/20210803164452/https://olympics.com/tokyo-2020/olympic-games/resOG2020-/pdf/OG2020-/CLB/OG2020-_CLB_C73S_CLBMCOMBINED----------QUAL0001SP--.pdf. live.
  10. Web site: Sport Climbing – Men's Combined – Bouldering Qualification Results. TOCOG. 3 August 2021. 3 August 2021. 3 August 2021. https://web.archive.org/web/20210803220313/https://olympics.com/tokyo-2020/olympic-games/resOG2020-/pdf/OG2020-/CLB/OG2020-_CLB_C73B_CLBMCOMBINED----------QUAL0001BL--.pdf. live.
  11. Web site: Sport Climbing – Men's Combined – Lead Qualification Results. TOCOG. 3 August 2021. 3 August 2021. 3 August 2021. https://web.archive.org/web/20210803164556/https://olympics.com/tokyo-2020/olympic-games/resOG2020-/pdf/OG2020-/CLB/OG2020-_CLB_C73L_CLBMCOMBINED----------QUAL0001LD--.pdf. live.
  12. Web site: Sport Climbing – Men's Combined – Qualification Results Summary. TOCOG. 3 August 2021. 3 August 2021. 3 August 2021. https://web.archive.org/web/20210803164558/https://olympics.com/tokyo-2020/olympic-games/resOG2020-/pdf/OG2020-/CLB/OG2020-_CLB_C74_CLBMCOMBINED----------QUAL--------.pdf. live.
  13. Web site: en. Sport Climbing – Men's Combined – Speed Final – Brackets. Tokyo 2020. 2021-08-05. PDF. 2021-08-05. 2021-08-05. https://web.archive.org/web/20210805091301/https://olympics.com/tokyo-2020/olympic-games/resOG2020-/pdf/OG2020-/CLB/OG2020-_CLB_C75S_CLBMCOMBINED----------FNL-0001SP--.pdf.
  14. Web site: en. Sport Climbing – Men's Combined – Speed Final – Race Analysis. Tokyo 2020. 2021-08-05. PDF. 2021-08-05. 2021-08-05. https://web.archive.org/web/20210805091137/https://olympics.com/tokyo-2020/olympic-games/resOG2020-/pdf/OG2020-/CLB/OG2020-_CLB_C77S_CLBMCOMBINED----------FNL-0001SP--.pdf.
  15. Web site: en. Sport Climbing – Men's Combined – Bouldering Final. Tokyo 2020. 2021-08-05. PDF. 2021-08-05. 2021-08-05. https://web.archive.org/web/20210805112655/https://olympics.com/tokyo-2020/olympic-games/resOG2020-/pdf/OG2020-/CLB/OG2020-_CLB_C73B_CLBMCOMBINED----------FNL-0001BL--.pdf.
  16. Web site: Sport Climbing – Men's Combined – Lead Final Results. live. 6 August 2021. 5 August 2021. https://web.archive.org/web/20210805131617/https://olympics.com/tokyo-2020/olympic-games/resOG2020-/pdf/OG2020-/CLB/OG2020-_CLB_C73L_CLBMCOMBINED----------FNL-0001LD--.pdf.
  17. Web site: Sport Climbing – Men's Combined – Final Results Summary. live. 6 August 2021. 5 August 2021. https://web.archive.org/web/20210805131632/https://olympics.com/tokyo-2020/olympic-games/resOG2020-/pdf/OG2020-/CLB/OG2020-_CLB_C74_CLBMCOMBINED----------FNL---------.pdf.

This article is licensed under the GNU Free Documentation License. It uses material from the Wikipedia article "Sport climbing at the 2020 Summer Olympics – Men's combined".

Except where otherwise indicated, Everything.Explained.Today is © Copyright 2009-2024, A B Cryer, All Rights Reserved. Cookie policy.