Speed climbing at the 2019 IFSC Climbing World Cup explained

Event:Speed climbing
Competition:2019 IFSC Climbing World Cup
Location:
Dates:12 April – 20 October 2019
Men: Bassa Mawem
Women: YiLing Song
Prev:2018
Next:2021

Competition speed climbing in the 2019 IFSC Climbing World Cup was held over six stages at six different locations, from 12 April to 20 October 2019. The top three in each competition received medals, and at the end of the season, the overall winners were awarded trophies. The overall winners were determined based upon points, which athletes were awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event. Bassa Mawem won the men's seasonal title, YiLing Song won the women's seasonal title, and Russian Federation defended its national team title.[1] [2]

Winners overview

!Date!Location!Men!Women
April, 12–14 Moscow, Russia Bassa Mawem YiLing Song
April, 26–28 Chongqing, China Alfian Muhammad YiLing Song
May, 3–5 Wujiang, China Dmitrii Timofeev Aleksandra Miroslaw
July, 4–6 Villars, Switzerland Aleksandr Shikov Anouck Jaubert
July, 11–13 Chamonix, France Alfian Muhammad YiLing Song
October, 18–20 Xiamen, China QiXin Zhong Aries Susanti Rahayu
OVERALL WINNERS Bassa Mawem YiLing Song
NATIONAL TEAM Russian Federation

Records broken

EventRoundClimberLocationTimeDate
Women's speedFinal YiLing SongChongqing, China7.101[3] April 26, 2019
Aries Susanti RahayuXiamen, China6.995[4] October 19, 2019

Overall ranking

The overall ranking is determined based upon points, which athletes are awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event. There are six competitions in the season, but only the best five attempts are counted. The national ranking is the sum of the points of that country's three best male and female athletes. Results displayed in parentheses are not counted.

Men

The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Speed World Cup 2019:[5]

RankNAMEPointsXiamenChamonixVillarsWujiangChongqingMoscow
1 Bassa Mawem329.005. 51.007. 43.004. 55.002. 80.0015. (22.00)1. 100.00
2 Vladislav Deulin312.003. 65.003. 65.005. 51.005. 51.0014. (24.00)2. 80.00
3 Alfian Muhammad286.008. 40.001. 100.0020. 12.0010. 34.001. 100.0024. (7.00)
4 QiXin Zhong285.001. 100.002. 80.007. 43.0024. 7.004. 55.00(—)
5 Dmitrii Timofeev283.007. 43.0016. 20.002. 80.001. 100.0016. (20.00)8. 40.00
6 Reza Alipourshenazandifar236.006. 47.0023. (8.00)8. 40.004. 55.005. 51.007. 43.00
7 Sergey Rukin234.004. 55.006. 47.0016. 20.00(—)3. 65.006. 47.00
8 Aleksandr Shikov203.0012. 28.0014. 24.001. 100.00(—)(—)5. 51.00
9 Kostiantyn Pavlenko181.0022. 9.0011. 31.0019. 14.006. 47.002. 80.00(—)
10 Jan Kriz162.0024. (7.00)18. 16.003. 65.007. 43.0018. 16.0015. 22.00

Women

The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Speed World Cup 2019:[6]

RankNAMEPointsXiamenChamonixVillarsWujiangChongqingMoscow
1 YiLing Song460.002. 80.001. 100.002. 80.0016. (20.00)1. 100.001. 100.00
2 Anouck Jaubert355.004. 55.0016. (20.00)1. 100.003. 65.004. 55.002. 80.00
3 Aries Susanti Rahayu333.001. 100.004. 55.0019. (14.00)2. 80.005. 51.006. 47.00
4 Elizaveta Ivanova261.0029. (2.00)2. 80.003. 65.0012. 28.009. 37.005. 51.00
5 Di Niu201.007. 43.0015. 22.004. 55.006. 47.0010. 34.00(—)
6 Anna Tsyganova197.00(—)(—)6. 47.004. 55.008. 40.004. 55.00
7 Aleksandra Kalucka194.0020. (12.00)3. 65.0015. 22.008. 40.0014. 24.007. 43.00
8 Patrycja Chudziak188.00(—)7. 43.007. 43.005. 51.0016. 20.0011. 31.00
9 Aleksandra Miroslaw180.00(—)(—)(—)1. 100.002. 80.00(—)
10 Iuliia Kaplina172.0018. 16.00(—)(—)13. 26.003. 65.003. 65.00

National Teams

The results of the ten most successful countries of the Lead World Cup 2019:[7]

Country names as used by the IFSC

RankNationPointsXiamenChamonixVillarsWujiangChongqingMoscow
1 Russian Federation1637318294383293(292)349
2 People's Republic of China1375343268263209292(180)
3 France1004204(113)219215129237
4 Indonesia979172232(46)187250138
5 Poland874(59)210149217184114
6 Ukraine3283586615789(—)
7 Islamic Republic of Iran25751(8)40555160
8 Italy250(0)1550831290
9 Ecuador19526653536(22)33
10 Czech Republic162(7)1665431622

Moscow, Russia (April, 12–14)

Men

91 men attended the event.[8]

France's Bassa Mawem took the win. Russia's Vladislav Deulin placed second while Indonesia's Aspar Jaelolo placed third. World record holder, Iran's Reza Alipourshenazandifar placed 7th.[9]

RankNameFinalSmall1/21/41/8Qual.
Bassa Mawem5.7305.6565.7615.7925.699
Vladislav Deulin11.5455.9195.8646.0215.874
Aspar Jaelolo6.083Sturz6.6176.7805.838
4 Long Cao10.0046.6639.3915.7975.731
5 Aleksandr Shikov7.1265.8916.096
6 Sergey Rukin7.2635.9085.809
7 Reza Alipourshenazandifar7.5875.9225.826
8 Dmitrii TimofeevSturz5.9275.913
9 Aleksandr Shilov6.0686.207
10 Stanislav Kokorin6.0946.163
11 Amir Maimuratov6.0966.083
12 Gian Luca Zodda6.3106.230
13 Georgy Artamonov6.8046.162
14 Ludovico Fossali6.9606.157
15 Jan Kriz7.6656.222
16 Lev Rudatskiy7.6816.138

Women

76 women attended the event.[10]

China's YiLing Song won her first gold medal in the World Cup circuit after a tight race in the final against France's Anouck Jaubert who took second place. Russia's Iuliia Kaplina took third place.

RankNameFinalSmall1/21/41/8Qual.
YiLing Song7.3897.4357.7237.6687.880
Anouck Jaubert7.6828.3637.8008.3728.024
Iuliia Kaplina8.2337.4447.5627.7217.464
4 Anna TsyganovaSturzSturz7.8338.0367.999
5 Elizaveta Ivanova7.7967.9908.130
6 Aries Susanti Rahayu7.9157.7927.711
7 Aleksandra Kalucka9.6848.6398.438
8 Elena Remizova10.7178.1597.860
9 Aurelia Sarisson8.3418.462
10 Anna Calanca8.4778.544
11 Patrycja Chudziak8.4808.395
12 Andrea Rojas8.6148.590
13 Ekaterina Barashchuk8.8158.577
14 MingWei Ni10.0197.967
15 Anna Brozek10.4198.259
16 Mariia KrasavinaSturz8.102

Chongqing, China (April, 26–28)

Men

85 men attended the event.[11]

Indonesia's Alfian Muhammad took the win. Ukraine's Kostiantyn Pavlenko placed second and Russia's Sergey Rukin third. France's Bassa Mawem, Moscow's winner, was eliminated early in the competition, placing 15th.[12] [13]

RankNameFinalSmall1/21/41/8Qual.
Alfian Muhammad5.9706.1005.9615.9635.914
Kostiantyn Pavlenko6.3155.7995.9976.1306.206
Sergey Rukin6.8089.8426.6375.8136.020
4 QiXin ZhongSturz5.8205.6165.9125.618
5 Reza Alipourshenazandifar5.7335.9966.115
6 Nikolai Iarilovets6.3106.3456.263
7 ZhiYong Ou7.0348.4276.279
8 Fatchur Roji7.5186.3276.212
9 Marcin Dzienski6.0806.317
10 JinBao Long6.1646.128
11 Aspar Jaelolo6.2865.876
12 Aleksandr Shilov7.3796.085
13 ZhiXing Chen8.1155.842
14 Vladislav Deulin8.9366.133
15 Bassa MawemSturz5.677
16 Dmitrii TimofeevSturz5.827

Women

74 women attended the event.[14]

China's YiLing Song won her second gold medal. Song also set a new world record (7.101 seconds) in the quarter-final race against Poland’s Natalia Kalucka. Poland's Aleksandra Miroslaw took silver and Russia's Iuliia Kaplina took bronze.

RankNameFinalSmall1/21/41/8Qual.
YiLing Song7.6737.1107.1017.6877.471
Aleksandra MiroslawSturz7.3687.5647.7657.484
Iuliia Kaplina8.429Sturz8.1807.4917.618
4 Anouck JaubertSturz7.3217.4007.8187.738
5 Aries Susanti Rahayu7.4297.6527.739
6 Elena Timofeeva7.9347.9398.042
7 Natalia Kalucka7.9758.2458.205
8 Anna TsyganovaSturz7.9577.990
9 Elizaveta Ivanova7.6728.218
10 Di Niu8.0658.212
11 Aurelia Sarisson8.1278.358
12 Iqamah Nurul8.2748.334
13 PeiYang Tian8.2818.174
14 Aleksandra Kalucka8.8568.312
15 MingWei Ni8.9138.213
16 Patrycja Chudziak10.7408.310

Wujiang, China (May, 3–5)

Men

85 men attended the event.[15]

Russia's Dmitrii Timofeev beat France's Bassa Mawem in the final race and claimed the gold medal. Mawem took second place while Italy's Ludovico Fossali took third place.[16]

RankNameFinalSmall1/21/41/8Qual.
Dmitrii Timofeev5.5975.5805.6955.8565.683
Bassa Mawem5.8105.9625.8555.8895.769
Ludovico Fossali5.8566.5665.7836.0666.182
4 Reza Alipourshenazandifar6.4365.6275.7395.9045.657
5 Vladislav Deulin5.8436.0155.932
6 Kostiantyn Pavlenko5.8485.9845.964
7 Jan Kriz5.9266.0346.059
8 ZhiXing Chen8.2796.4385.820
9 Fatchur Roji6.0026.112
10 Alfian Muhammad6.0645.812
11 PengHui Lin6.1146.028
12 Arsenii Bogomolov6.1296.053
13 Marcin Dzienski6.2026.179
14 Aleksandr Shilov6.4406.138
15 Aspar Jaelolo7.0975.598
16 ZhiYong Ou8.3546.054

Women

68 women attended the event.[17]

Poland's Aleksandra Miroslaw won the gold medal after a tight final race against Indonesia's Aries Susanti Rahayu. Rahayu placed second while France's Anouck Jaubert placed third. China's YiLing Song, who had just set a new world record last week in Chongqing, slipped in an early race against Poland’s Aleksandra Kalucka and finished the competition in 16th place.

RankNameFinalSmall1/21/41/8Qual.
Aleksandra Miroslaw7.3137.2807.6247.5417.285
Aries Susanti Rahayu7.6077.7177.8288.1977.793
Anouck Jaubert7.5167.6687.7787.9277.732
4 Anna Tsyganova7.5417.7208.5927.8388.089
5 Patrycja Chudziak7.9578.0288.071
6 Di Niu8.8118.1488.287
7 Aurelia Sarisson10.5668.2758.233
8 Aleksandra KaluckaSturz9.1738.291
9 MingWei Ni8.0807.971
10 PeiYang Tian8.2268.219
11 Elena Timofeeva8.6737.960
12 Elizaveta Ivanova8.9857.774
13 Iuliia Kaplina8.9917.684
14 Anna Brozek9.0388.368
15 Andrea Rojas9.8078.260
16 YiLing Song13.6527.566

Villars, Switzerland (July, 4–6)

Men

84 men attended the event.[18]

Russia's Aleksandr Shikov and Dmitrii Timofeev placed first and second respectively. The Czech Republic’s Jan Kriz beat France's Bassa Mawem in the small final and earned a bronze medal.[19]

RankNameFinalSmall1/21/41/8Qual.
Aleksandr Shikov5.5425.8926.8806.3555.630
Dmitrii TimofeevSturz5.5135.7356.3545.716
Jan Kriz7.7656.0785.9976.1826.040
4 Bassa MawemSturz5.5735.6555.7655.686
5 Vladislav Deulin5.7545.8995.956
6 Danyil Boldyrev6.0116.0325.964
7 QiXin ZhongSturz20.0005.873
8 Reza AlipourshenazandifarFehlstart6.0755.923
9 Ludovico Fossali5.8636.142
10 Lev Rudatskiy6.3005.803
11 JinBao Long6.5565.755
12 Long Cao6.9705.799
13 Aleksandr Shilov7.3676.099
14 Rishat Khaibullin7.4996.149
15 Seungbeom LeeSturz5.871
16 Sergey RukinFehlstart5.909

Women

73 women attended the event.[20]

France's Anouck Jaubert took the gold medal after winning a final race against China's YiLing Song. Song earned a silver medal while Russia's Elizaveta Ivanova earned bronze after beating China's Di Niu in the small final.

RankNameFinalSmall1/21/41/8Qual.
Anouck Jaubert7.66020.0007.5907.7387.638
YiLing Song8.4157.4287.2397.4837.224
Elizaveta Ivanova7.586Fehlstart7.3598.7467.602
4 Di Niu10.6577.9148.4758.1718.345
5 Natalia Kalucka7.8987.9968.115
6 Anna Tsyganova8.0649.2488.311
7 Patrycja Chudziak8.2368.2778.208
8 Kseniia Petrova9.3688.7998.478
9 Anna Brozek8.2858.257
10 Miho Nonaka8.4328.571
11 Capucine Viglione8.4788.642
12 Andrea Rojas8.9648.626
13 MingWei Ni9.0567.833
14 Mariia Krasavina9.2888.011
15 Aleksandra Kalucka9.4767.959
16 Iqamah Nurul10.1378.239

Chamonix, France (July, 11–13)

Men

97 men attended the event.[21]

Indonesia's Alfian Muhammad took the win. China's QiXin Zhong placed second while Russia's Vladislav Deulin placed third.[22]

RankNameFinalSmall1/21/41/8Qual.
Alfian Muhammad5.7645.6906.0375.8546.174
QiXin Zhong6.3825.6985.8405.9865.708
Vladislav Deulin6.0575.79999.0006.4026.055
4 Danyil BoldyrevSturz5.84899.0005.8575.862
5 Marcin Dzienski6.3626.0876.035
6 Sergey Rukin7.4485.8355.980
7 Bassa MawemFehlstart5.9475.793
8 John BroslerFehlstart6.0966.097
9 Aspar Jaelolo5.8785.998
10 Seungbeom Lee5.9436.064
11 Kostiantyn Pavlenko5.9936.156
12 Stanislav Kokorin6.1806.185
13 Long Cao7.4075.829
14 Aleksandr Shikov7.4945.918
15 Aleksandr Shilov7.8995.975
16 Dmitrii TimofeevSturz5.780

Women

83 women attended the event.[23]

China's YiLing Song earned a gold medal. Russia's Elizaveta Ivanova placed second while Poland's Aleksandra Kalucka placed third.

RankNameFinalSmall1/21/41/8Qual.
YiLing Song99.0007.2547.2917.5627.842
Elizaveta IvanovaFehlstart7.5567.6867.7847.824
Aleksandra Kalucka7.6617.6267.6877.8258.161
4 Aries Susanti RahayuSturz9.8087.8167.9887.885
5 Anna Brozek7.9708.1958.493
6 Andrea Rojas8.3189.2638.538
7 Patrycja Chudziak8.3478.5998.204
8 Mariia Krasavina8.5488.2348.203
9 Iqamah Nurul8.3528.719
10 Elena Remizova8.3668.667
11 MingWei Ni9.0378.680
12 Alexandra Elmer9.0379.002
13 Capucine Viglione9.0908.937
14 Kseniia Petrova9.2828.508
15 Di Niu9.6768.780
16 Anouck JaubertSturz8.886

Xiamen, China (October, 18–20)

Men

65 men attended the event.[24]

China's QiXin Zhong won the gold medal. Russia's Lev Rudatskiy and Vladislav Deulin placed second and third respectively.[25] [26]

RankNameFinalSmall1/21/41/8Qual.
QiXin Zhong7.2085.5685.5285.7545.490
Lev RudatskiySturz5.5286.3055.7335.872
Vladislav Deulin5.6355.5605.6085.8225.832
4 Sergey Rukin5.7635.899Wildcard5.9225.968
5 Bassa Mawem5.8065.8555.950
6 Reza Alipourshenazandifar6.3667.3835.658
7 Dmitrii Timofeev6.4575.7355.648
8 Alfian MuhammadFehlstart5.7595.668
9 Seungbeom Lee5.8565.988
10 JinBao Long5.9045.953
11 PengHui Lin5.9145.967
12 Aleksandr Shikov5.9505.762
13 Rishat Khaibullin6.0125.887
14 Pierre Rebreyend6.0646.057
15 Fatchur Roji6.7956.041
16 Aleksandr Shilov8.8235.999

Women

51 women attended the event.[27]

Indonesia's Aries Susanti Rahayu set a new world record (6.995 seconds) in the final race against China's YiLing Song and claimed the gold medal. Rahayu also became the first woman in the history to break the 7-second barrier. Song claimed the silver while Russia's Mariia Krasavina claimed the bronze.

RankNameFinalSmall1/21/41/8Qual.
Aries Susanti Rahayu6.9957.1637.3117.3877.204
YiLing Song9.0327.1697.2018.6997.423
Mariia Krasavina7.947Sturz7.2877.5547.707
4 Anouck Jaubert14.3757.6987.4427.7707.592
5 LiJuan Deng7.3987.6318.207
6 PeiYang Tian7.6848.1828.097
7 Di Niu8.1327.7637.718
8 Aurelia Sarisson8.2268.0178.152
9 Elena Remizova7.9858.712
10 Victoire Andrier8.1598.486
11 Natalia Kalucka8.3028.415
12 LiRong Yan8.4578.508
13 Tetiana Kolkotina8.7158.635
14 Andrea Rojas8.7188.602
15 Sol Sa8.9568.712
16 GuiZhen Xie9.2848.528

Notes and References

  1. Web site: Results. 2021-09-03. www.ifsc-climbing.org.
  2. Web site: Competition calendar 2019.
  3. Web site: New Women’s Speed World Record by Song Yi Ling.
  4. Web site: 20 October 2019. Aries Susati Pecahkan Rekor Dunia Panjat Tebing. CNN Indonesia.
  5. Web site: IFSC CLIMBING WORLD CUP 2019: M E N SPEED. www.ifsc-climbing.org. 2019-10-28.
  6. Web site: IFSC CLIMBING WORLD CUP 2019: W O M E N SPEED. www.ifsc-climbing.org. 2019-10-28.
  7. Web site: IFSC SPEED WORLD CUP 2019: NATIONAL TEAM RANKING. www.ifsc-climbing.org. 2019-10-28.
  8. Web site: General result M E N speed. 2021-09-04. www.digitalrock.de.
  9. Web site: 2019-04-15. Recap and Photo Gallery: IFSC Moscow World Cup 2019—Bouldering and Speed. 2021-09-05. Climbing.
  10. Web site: General result W O M E N speed. 2021-09-04. www.digitalrock.de.
  11. Web site: General result M E N speed. 2021-09-05. www.digitalrock.de.
  12. Web site: 2019-04-30. Recap and Photo Gallery: IFSC Chongqing World Cup 2019—Bouldering and Speed. 2021-09-05. Climbing.
  13. Web site: NEWS: IFSC World Cup Chongqing - Boulder & Speed Report. 2021-09-05. www.ukclimbing.com. en.
  14. Web site: General result W O M E N speed. 2021-09-05. www.digitalrock.de.
  15. Web site: General result M E N speed.
  16. Web site: 2019-05-06. Recap and Photo Gallery: IFSC Wujiang World Cup 2019—Bouldering and Speed. 2021-09-05. Climbing.
  17. Web site: General result W O M E N speed. 2021-09-05. www.digitalrock.de.
  18. Web site: General result M E N speed. 2021-09-05. www.digitalrock.de.
  19. Web site: 2019-07-08. Recap and Photo Gallery: IFSC Villars World Cup 2019—Lead and Speed. 2021-09-05. Climbing.
  20. Web site: General result W O M E N speed. 2021-09-05. www.digitalrock.de.
  21. Web site: General result M E N speed. 2021-09-05. www.digitalrock.de.
  22. Web site: 2019-07-15. Recap and Photo Gallery: IFSC Chamonix World Cup 2019—Lead and Speed. 2021-09-05. Climbing.
  23. Web site: General result W O M E N speed. 2021-09-05. www.digitalrock.de.
  24. Web site: General result M E N speed. 2021-09-05. www.digitalrock.de.
  25. Web site: 2019-10-21. Recap and Photo Gallery: IFSC Xiamen World Cup 2019—Lead and Speed. 2021-09-05. Climbing.
  26. Web site: NEWS: IFSC Lead and Speed World Cup 2019: Xiamen - Report. 2021-09-05. www.ukclimbing.com. en.
  27. Web site: General result W O M E N speed. 2021-09-05. www.digitalrock.de.

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