Aldeburgh Explained

Country:England
Coordinates:52.15°N 1.6°W
Official Name:Aldeburgh
Civil Parish:Aldeburgh
Static Image Name:Moot Hall, Aldeburgh.jpg
Static Image Caption:The Moot Hall
Population:2,466
Population Ref:(2011 Census)[1]
Shire District:East Suffolk
Region:East of England
Shire County:Suffolk
Constituency Westminster:Suffolk Coastal
Post Town:ALDEBURGH
Postcode District:IP15
Postcode Area:IP
Dial Code:01728
Os Grid Reference:TM463566
Embedded:
Static Image 2 Caption:The town's flag

Aldeburgh is a coastal town and civil parish in the East Suffolk district, in the county of Suffolk, England, north of the River Alde. Its estimated population was 2,276 in 2019.[2] It was home to the composer Benjamin Britten and remains the centre of the international Aldeburgh Festival of arts at nearby Snape Maltings, which was founded by Britten in 1948.[3] [4] It also hosts an annual poetry festival[5] and several food festivals and other events.[3]

Aldeburgh, as a port, gained borough status in 1529 under Henry VIII. Its historic buildings include a 16th-century moot hall and a Napoleonic-era Martello Tower. A third of its housing consists of second homes.[6] Visitors are drawn to its Blue Flag beach and fisherman huts, where fresh fish is sold, to Aldeburgh Yacht Club and to its cultural offerings. Two family-run fish and chip shops have been rated among the country's best.[7] The independent Aldeburgh bookshop has been in business for more than seventy years, is locally thought to have been the site of the birthplace of George Crabbe (1754–1832)[8] and has organised the annual Aldeburgh Literary Festival since 2002.[9] [10] [11]

History

The name "Aldeburgh" derives from the Old English ald (old) and burh (fortification),[12] although this structure, along with much of the Tudor town, has now been lost to the sea. In the 16th century, Aldeburgh was a leading port and had a flourishing shipbuilding industry. The flagship of the Virginia Company, the Sea Venture is believed to have been built here in 1608. Aldeburgh's importance as a port declined as the River Alde silted up and larger ships could no longer berth. It survived mainly on fishing until the 19th century, when it also became a seaside resort. Much of its distinctive, whimsical architecture dates from that period. The river is now home to a yacht club and a sailing club.

Between 1959 and 1968, the village was the location of a Royal Observer Corps monitoring bunker, to be used in the event of a nuclear attack. The bunker was later demolished and no trace survives.[13]

Geography

Aldeburgh is on the North Sea coast, about 87miles north-east of London, 200NaN0 north-east of Ipswich and 230NaN0 south of Lowestoft. Locally it is 40NaN0 south of the town of Leiston and 20NaN0 south of the village of Thorpeness. It lies just north of the River Alde, with the narrow shingle spit of Orford Ness all that stops the river meeting the sea at Aldeburgh – instead it flows another 90NaN0 to the south-west.

The beach is mainly shingle and wide in places, allowing fishing boats to draw up onto the beach above the high tide, but it narrows at the neck of Orford Ness. The shingle bank allows access to the Ness from the north, passing a Martello tower and two yacht clubs at the site of the former village of Slaughden. Aldeburgh was flooded in the North Sea flood of 1953, after which its flood defences were strengthened.[14] The beach received a Blue Flag rural beach award in 2005.

The town is within the Suffolk Coast and Heaths Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB), with a number of Sites of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI) and nature reserves in its locality. The Alde-Ore Estuary SSSI covers the area surrounding the river from Snape to its mouth, including the whole of Orford Ness. This contains several salt marsh and mudflat habitats.[15] The Leiston-Aldeburgh SSSI extends from the northern edge of the town over a range of habitats, including grazing marsh and heathland.[16] [17] It includes Thorpeness Mere and the North Warren RSPB reserve, an area of wildlife and habitat conservation, and nature trails run by the Royal Society for the Protection of Birds.[17] [18]

Two smaller geological SSSI units lie on the southern edges. Aldeburgh Brick Pit, of 0.84ha, shows a clear stratigraphy of Red Crag deposits above Corralline Crag.[19] Aldeburgh Hall Pit is a shallow pit 0.8ha in area, featuring a section of Corralline Crag. It is seen as one of the best sites in Britain for Neogene fauna.[20]

The town's churches include the pre-Reformation Anglican parish church of St Peter and St Paul and the Catholic Church of Our Lady and St Peter.

Governance

Aldeburgh has a town council and lies within the East Suffolk non-metropolitan district. Aldeburgh ward, including Thorpeness and other communities, had a population of 3225 in the 2011 census, when the mean age of the inhabitants was 55 and the median age 61.[21]

The town is located within the Suffolk Coastal parliamentary constituency represented since 2024 by the Labour MP Jenny Riddell-Carpenter. The constituency was previous seen as a safe seat for the Conservatives, having been represented by John Gummer from 1979 to 2010 and Thérèse Coffey from 2010 to 2024.

Aldeburgh was a parliamentary borough from 1571 and returned two Members of Parliament (MPs), the right to vote being vested in the town's freemen. By the mid-18th century it was classed as a rotten borough, as the votes were controlled by a City of London merchant, Thomas Fonnereau:[22] and memorably described it as "a venal little borough in Suffolk".[23] It lost its representation under the Great Reform Act of 1832.

In 1908 Aldeburgh became the first British town to elect a female mayor: Elizabeth Garrett Anderson, whose father, Newson Garrett, had been mayor in 1889. In 2006, Sam Wright became Aldeburgh's town crier and mace bearer at 15, and so the youngest in the world.[24]

In 1885 Aldeburgh became a municipal borough in the administrative county of East Suffolk, the district contained the parish of Aldeburgh.[25] On 1 April 1934 part of Hazlewood parish was added Aldeburgh parish and district from Plomesgate Rural District when Hazlewood was abolished.[26] On 1 April 1974 the district was abolished and became part of Suffolk Coastal in the non-metropolitan county of Suffolk.[27] A successor parish was formed covering the same area as the former district and its parish.[28] In 2019 Aldeburgh became part of East Suffolk district.

Transport

Aldeburgh is linked to the A12 by the A1094 road, at Friday Street in Benhall. The B1122 leads to Leiston.

There are direct bus services from the town to Saxmundham, Beccles, Halesworth, Woodbridge and Ipswich. Buses in the area are operated by First Eastern Counties and Borderbus.

Aldeburgh railway station opened in 1860 as the terminus of the Aldeburgh Branch Line from Saxmundham, but was closed in 1966 under the Beeching Axe. Nowadays, the nearest railway station is on the East Suffolk Line,[29] approximately 7miles away. Saxmundham station is served by hourly weekday services to, for connections towards London Liverpool Street, and to for connections to .[30]

Landmarks

Lifeboat station

See main article: Aldeburgh Lifeboat Station. The RNLI station in the town was operating two lifeboats in 2016.

Moot Hall

The Moot Hall is a Grade I listed timber-framed building, used for council meetings for more than 400 years. The Town Clerk's office remains there and it houses the local museum. It was built in about 1520 and altered in 1654. The brick and stone infilling of the ground floor is later. The hall was restored and the external staircase and gable ends were rebuilt in 1854–1855 under the direction of R. M. Phipson, chief architect of the Diocese of Norwich, in which Aldeburgh then stood. There are 64 other listed historic buildings and monuments in the town.

Martello Tower

A unique quatrefoil Martello Tower stands at the isthmus leading to the Orford Ness shingle spit. It is the largest and northernmost of 103 English defensive towers built in 1808–1812 to resist a threatened Napoleonic invasion. The Landmark Trust now runs it as holiday apartments.[31] From May 2015 to May 2016, an Antony Gormley statue was on display on the roof as part of his LAND art installation.

The Martello Tower is the only surviving building of the fishing village of Slaughden, which had been washed away by the North Sea by 1936. Near the Martello Tower at Slaughden Quay are barely visible remains of the fishing smack Ionia. It had become stuck in the treacherous mud of the River Alde and was then used as a houseboat. It was burnt in 1974 after becoming unsafe.

Fort Green Mill

See main article: Fort Green Mill, Aldeburgh. The four-storey windmill at the southern end of the town was built in 1824 and converted into a dwelling in 1902.

WW2 tank trap

A WW2 tank trap can be seen next to Slaughden Road.[32]

Aldeburgh Beach Lookout

The Aldeburgh Beach Lookout is a historic landmark on the Aldeburgh seafront. Grade II listed, it was built in about 1830 as a lookout tower to assist or plunder shipping along the hazardous North Sea coast. The South African writer Laurens van der Post did his writing there for more than thirty years. Since 2010, the lookout has provided an artistic space for residents and tourists, with Antony Gormley sculptures on display between the lookout and the sea.

Scallop

On Aldeburgh's beach, a short distance north of the town centre, stands a sculpture called Scallop, dedicated to Benjamin Britten, who would walk along the beach in the afternoons. Created from stainless steel by the Suffolk-based artist Maggi Hambling, it stands 15feet high and was unveiled in November 2003.[33] The piece is made up of two interlocking scallop shells, each broken, the upright shell being pierced by the words, "I hear those voices that will not be drowned," taken from Britten's opera Peter Grimes. The sculpture is meant to be enjoyed both visually and in a tactile way: people are encouraged to sit on it and watch the sea.

The upright portion of the shell splits into three sections positioned at different angles. The positioning of these effects a visual transformation, depending on the vantage point from which the sculpture is viewed.

The sculpture is controversial in the local area,[34] with some local residents considering it "spoils the beach". It has been vandalised with graffiti and paint on thirteen occasions.[33] There have been petitions both for its removal and retention.[33]

First World War

A nearby aerodrome, Royal Naval Air Station Aldeburgh, was used in the First World War as a night landing ground and for training observers.[35]

Notable residents

Culture

Outside the town, the Snape Maltings is the venue for the Aldeburgh Festival held every June.

Aldeburgh Music Club, founded by Benjamin Britten and Peter Pears in 1952,[59] has since evolved into one of East Anglia's leading choirs, with about 100 members and more than 120 supporting patrons. It rehearses from early September to late May each year and holds three major performances, two of them at Snape Maltings Concert Hall.

The annual Aldeburgh Carnival in August has been held at least since 1892 and possibly since 1832, when "Ye Olde Marine Regatta" was mentioned. The focal point today is a carnival procession featuring locals and visitors dressed in homemade costumes and on floats, often with a topical or local theme. In the evening, a parade with Chinese lanterns and a firework display are traditional. The procession has been led for more than thirty years by Chief Marshal Trevor Harvey, also a Carnival Committee member for more than fifty years.[60]

The Suffolk Craft Society hold an annual themed exhibition in the Peter Pears Gallery over July and August, showing the work of its members.

The town of Aldeburgh, or "Owlbarrow", is the setting of a series of children's illustrated books centred on Orlando (The Marmalade Cat) written by Kathleen Hale, who spent holidays in the town. Many illustrations in the books feature landmarks in the town, including the Moot Hall. The town features in the 1989 thriller Cross of Fire by novelist Colin Forbes, as do the nearby villages of Dunwich and Snape Maltings.[61] James Herbert based his book The Jonah in the area, using several names represented in the local area for characters, including Slaughden.

Aldeburgh (spelt there Aldborough) is the location of a key scene in Wilkie Collins's novel No Name, where Captain Wragge and Magdalen Vanstone enact their conspiracy against Noel Vanstone and Mrs Lecount. The town's Martello Tower is (1862) mentioned as a landmark. Aldeburgh also features in Joseph Freeman's novel Arcadia Lodge as "Seaburgh", and in the M. R. James story A Warning to the Curious. The Maggi Hambling sculpture appears in an early scene, as do various other landmarks.

Fishing

Aldeburgh is notable for its line fishing for amateur anglers; it has been called "a great spot for bass, flounders, sole, dabs, cod, whiting and eels".[62] However, the East Anglian Daily Times says "countless years of commercial over-fishing has all but destroyed many of our [Suffolk's] offshore sea fisheries"[62] and traditional, sustainable inshore fishing is under threat, with likely knock-on effects for the coastal community.[63] Local fishermen featured in the "Fish Fight" campaigns of Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall and Greenpeace, supporting small-scale inshore fishermen.[64] [65]

Rugby

Aldeburgh is home to Aldeburgh and Thorpeness Rugby Club, based at Kings Field in Aldeburgh. The club runs an adult team in the Eastern Counties Leagues, an Under-15s team, Midi/Mini rugby, and Women's touch rugby. The club started out in nearby Thorpeness and moved in 2015 to work with Aldeburgh Town Council and Aldeburgh Community Centre.

Media

Local news and television programmes are provided by BBC East and ITV Anglia. Television signals are received from the Tacolneston TV transmitter and the local relay transmitter situated north-east of the town.[66]

Local radio stations are BBC Radio Suffolk, Heart East, Greatest Hits Radio Ipswich & Suffolk and Alde and Blyth Community Radio (ABC), a community radio station.[67]

The town is served by the local newspaper the East Anglian Daily Times.

Other amenities

These include Aldeburgh Cottage Hospital,[68] [69] a traditional English cottage hospital, the Aldeburgh Library,[70] which also relies on volunteers,[71] and the Aldeburgh cinema,[72] which puts on films and cultural events.

Arms

Escutcheon:Azure on water in base an ancient ship of three masts in full sail a ladder affixed to the side amidships Proper the mainsail charged with a lion rampant the fore and aft sails and pennons each charged with a cross Gules.
Notes:Granted 5 February 1951.[73]

References

The Shell Guide to Suffolk, 1976

External links

Notes and References

  1. Web site: Town population 2011 . 14 September 2015 . https://web.archive.org/web/20160314145632/http://www.neighbourhood.statistics.gov.uk/dissemination/LeadKeyFigures.do?a=7&b=11119884&c=Aldeburgh&d=16&e=62&g=6466913&i=1001x1003x1032x1004&m=0&r=1&s=1442224122316&enc=1 . 14 March 2016 . dead.
  2. https://www.citypopulation.de/en/uk/eastofengland/suffolk/E34003232__aldeburgh/ Retrieved 2 March 2021.
  3. http://www.aldeburghtowncouncil.co.uk/index.php?pid=1 Aldeburgh Town Council
  4. https://archiveshub.jisc.ac.uk/search/archives/afb9d93b-65e3-3b9c-9d19-06ac6051be61 Archives Hub
  5. Web site: Home . 2022-11-08 . poetryinaldeburgh . en.
  6. News: Brown . Griselda Murray . Follow the music . https://ghostarchive.org/archive/20221210221212/https://www.ft.com/content/eeec7aa2-7b84-11e2-8eb3-00144feabdc0#axzz2MMsDkPDc . 10 December 2022 . subscription . 1 March 2013 . March 2013 . ft.com . 3 March 2013 . live .
  7. News: Top 10 chip shops . The Guardian . London . Gavin . Newsham . 10 February 2002 . 23 April 2010 . https://web.archive.org/web/20100414023640/http://www.guardian.co.uk/lifeandstyle/2002/feb/10/foodanddrink.features14. 14 April 2010 . live.
  8. Web site: THE ALDEBURGH BOOKSHOP . 2022-11-08 . THE ALDEBURGH BOOKSHOP . en-US.
  9. Web site: Aldeburgh Bookshop – Yale Representation . 2022-11-08 . www.yalerep.co.uk.
  10. Web site: 3 March 2022 . Four of the best independent book shops in Suffolk to mark World Book Day . 8 November 2022 . Suffolk News . en.
  11. Web site: Who's taking part in this year's Aldeburgh Literary Festival? . 2022-11-08 . East Anglian Daily Times . 4 April 2022 . en.
  12. Book: Field, John . Place-names of Great Britain and Ireland . 1980 . David & Charles . 0389201545 . Newton Abbot, Devon . 6964610 . 22.
  13. Web site: Aldeburgh ROC Post – Subterranea Britannica . 2022-10-10 . www.subbrit.org.uk.
  14. https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-suffolk-18107396 Alde and Ore estuary gets new flood defence partnership
  15. http://www.sssi.naturalengland.org.uk/citation/citation_photo/1003208.pdf Alde-Ore Estuary
  16. http://www.natureonthemap.naturalengland.org.uk/map.aspx?map=sssi&feature=2000370,sssi,HYPERLINK,LABEL Leiston-Aldeburgh
  17. http://www.sssi.naturalengland.org.uk/citation/citation_photo/2000370.pdf Leiston-Aldeburgh
  18. http://www.rspb.org.uk/reserves/guide/n/northwarren/index.aspx The RSPB: North Warren
  19. http://www.sssi.naturalengland.org.uk/citation/citation_photo/1002444.pdf Aldeburgh Brick Pit
  20. http://www.sssi.naturalengland.org.uk/citation/citation_photo/1001559.pdf Aldeburgh Hall Pit
  21. Aldeburgh demographics. Retrieved 15 December 2014.
  22. L. Namier, The Structure of Politics at the Accession of George III (London 1929) I, pp. 70 and 180.
  23. Crabbe, quoted in E. M. Forster, Two Cheers for Democracy (Penguin 1965) p. 178.
  24. http://www.eadt.co.uk/news/rain_fails_to_take_shine_off_carnival_1_76752. Rain fails to take shine off carnival Retrieved 22 August 2006.
  25. Web site: Relationships and changes Aldeburgh MB through time. A Vision of Britain through Time. 1 July 2024.
  26. Web site: Relationships and changes Aldeburgh AP/CP through time. A Vision of Britain through Time. 1 July 2024.
  27. Web site: The English Non-metropolitan Districts (Definition) Order 1972. legislation.gov.uk. 1 July 2024.
  28. Web site: The Local Government (Successor Parishes) Order 1973. legislation.gov.uk. 1 July 2024.
  29. http://www.nationalrail.co.uk/stations_destinations/nonrail/towns/aldeburgh.html Aldeburgh
  30. http://www.suffolkonboard.com/timetables_leaflets/timetables_by_area/saxmundham_leiston_aldeburgh_surrounding_area Saxmundham, Leiston, Aldeburgh and surrounding area
  31. Web site: The Landmark Trust | Martello Tower . Bookings.landmarktrust.org.uk . 7 August 2012.
  32. Web site: Tank Barrier Aldeburgh . tracesofwar.com . 17 August 2020.
  33. News: Aldeburgh: Scallop vandal fails to cover their tracks . East Anglian Daily times . 4 February 2013 . 4 March 2016 . https://web.archive.org/web/20160304053758/http://www.eadt.co.uk/news/aldeburgh_scallop_vandal_fails_to_cover_their_tracks_1_1168800 . dead .
  34. Web site: The Aldeburgh Scallop: Have your say! . BBC Suffolk . 4 February 2013.
  35. Sturtivant/Page 1992, p. 448.
  36. https://en.wikisource.org/wiki/Crabbe,_George_(DNB00) Dictionary of National Biography, 1885–1900, Volume 12, Crabbe, George
  37. News: George Crabbe: The man behind Benjamin Britten . Morrison . Blake . 14 June 2013 . The Guardian . en-GB . 0261-3077 . 1 March 2016.
  38. Augener, 1868. See Fuller Maitland, "Hatton, John Liptrot", Old D.N.B. p. 166, col. 2.
  39. Web site: BBC - History - Elizabeth Garrett Anderson . 1 March 2016.
  40. The Oxford Index . Oxford Dictionary of National Biography. 23 September 2004. 10.1093/ref:odnb/55688 . Stephan . Megan A. .
  41. http://www.ucl.ac.uk/bloomsbury-project/institutions/ladies_dwellings.htm UCL BLOOMSBURY PROJECT, Ladies' Dwellings Company
  42. Web site: The Fawcett Society History . 17 March 2016 .
  43. The Haunted Dolls' House and Other Ghost Stories, Penguin Press 2006.
  44. Web site: Mabel Lilian Basham - Groups and Centres . 2023-05-24 . www.uea.ac.uk.
  45. Web site: Imogen Holst. Faber Music. 18 April 2022.
  46. Web site: Britten Biographical Information . www.its.caltech.edu . 1 March 2016.
  47. [Stephen Lock]
  48. https://www.imdb.com/name/nm0719334/ IMDb Database. Retrieved December 2017.
  49. http://www.ipswichstar.co.uk/news/suffolk-trio-honoured-at-st-edmundsbury-cathedral-service-1-1363268 Ipswich Star – Trio honoured at St Edmundsbury
  50. News: Obituaries . Telegraph . 2020-07-06 . Francis Carnwath, devoted his later years to Tate Modern and countless other causes – obituary . en-GB . The Telegraph . 2020-10-26 . 0307-1235.
  51. https://www.whatsontv.co.uk/news/crossroads-actress-sue-lloyd-dies-aged-72-170284/ WhatssonTV. Retrieved 8 March 2020.
  52. Web site: Famous Suffolk People . May 2018.
  53. News: Obituary: Malcolm Bowie . Michael . Sheringham . 14 February 2007 . The Guardian.
  54. Web site: Aldeburgh Celebrity Walk Aldeburgh Tourist Information 2016 . www.lovealdeburgh.co.uk . 2 March 2016.
  55. http://news.bbc.co.uk/local/suffolk/hi/people_and_places/music/newsid_8645000/8645843.stm Cevanne Horrocks-Hopayian reference
  56. http://news.bbc.co.uk/sport2/hi/football/teams/i/ipswich_town/9346787.stm Retrieved 9 September 2019.
  57. News: My perfect weekend: Miranda Raison . Venning . Nicola . Telegraph.co.uk . 16 July 2017 . en.
  58. Web site: Aldeburgh: Florence and the Machine writer set to release new music . Barnes . Jonathan . Eastern Daily Press . 1 March 2016 . dead . https://web.archive.org/web/20160306202956/http://www.edp24.co.uk/going-out/aldeburgh_florence_and_the_machine_writer_set_to_release_new_music_1_769911 . 6 March 2016 . dmy-all.
  59. Web site: » Aldeburgh Music Club . www.aldeburgh.club.
  60. Web site: Aldeburgh, Suffolk . Aldeburgh Carnival . 7 August 2012.
  61. Web site: Diwekar . Rujuta . Cross of Fire 0330322419: Book: COLIN FORBES (9780330322416) . https://archive.today/20120527150907/http://www.flipkart.com/cross-fire-colin-forbes/0330322419-4tw3f9a26g . dead . 27 May 2012 . Flipkart.com . 7 August 2012 .
  62. Web site: A guide to fishing in Suffolk . East Anglian Daily Times . 4 February 2013.
  63. Web site: 2011 Conference: An Appetite for Change: Suffolk & the Sea . Aldeburgh Food & Drink Festival . 4 February 2013 . dead . https://web.archive.org/web/20130825052904/http://www.aldeburghfoodanddrink.co.uk/conference/programme/ . 25 August 2013.
  64. Web site: The Last Fishermen . Greenpeace UK . 4 February 2013 . dead . https://web.archive.org/web/20121227232244/http://www.greenpeace.org.uk/last-fishermen-film . 27 December 2012 . dmy-all.
  65. "Hugh Fearnley Whittingstall's Fish Fight and Greenpeace, in association with NUTFA (the New Under Ten Fishermen's Association) are campaigning to support the UK inshore fishing industry."Web site: From ship to Shaw . https://archive.today/20130505085808/http://www.placesandfaces.co.uk/articles/1015/from-ship-to-shaw.html . dead . 5 May 2013 . Places & Faces Magazine . 4 February 2013 .
  66. Web site: Freeview Light on the Aldeburgh (Suffolk, England) transmitter. 1 May 2004. UK Free TV. 15 January 2024.
  67. Web site: Alde and Blyth Community Radio . 15 January 2024.
  68. Web site: The National Archives - Hospital Records . www.nationalarchives.gov.uk.
  69. Web site: Overview – Aldeburgh Community Hospital . www.nhs.uk.
  70. Web site: Aldeburgh Library. suffolklibraries.co.uk.
  71. Web site: Aldeburgh: Community steps forward to save library . Craig . Robinson . Ipswich Star. 4 March 2011 .
  72. Web site: Aldeburgh Cinema. aldeburghcinema.co.uk.
  73. Web site: East of England Region . Civic Heraldry of England . 9 March 2021.