Sailor dress explained

A sailor dress is a child's or woman's dress that follows the styling of the sailor suit, particularly the bodice and collar treatment. A sailor-collared blouse is called a middy blouse ("middy" derives from "midshipman").^[1] In early 20th-century America, sailor dresses were very popularly known as Peter Thomson dresses after the former naval tailor credited with creating the style.^[2]

Peter Thomson dress

Peter Thomson (sometimes spelled Thompson)^[3] had tailoring establishments in New York and Philadelphia in around 1900.^[4] His original sailor dresses and suits, for both women and children (including young boys), are represented in several American museum collections including the Metropolitan Museum's Costume Institute,^[5] and the Philadelphia Museum of Art.^[6] The 'Peter Thomson dress' was made from cotton or linen for summer wear, or wool in winter.^[7] It was promoted as an ideal costume or uniform for female students and schoolchildren, and was popular with those trying to establish a "standardized style" of clothing.^{[8] [9]} By 1919, the Peter Thomson dress was regarded as a valid option for school uniforms, and was described as synonymous with "good taste for girls of 14-18 years old for many years."^[9] Peter Thomson styling was also applied to the bodices of early bathing costumes.^[10]

Dresses with sailor styling were known before the Peter Thomson design took hold. In Sweden in 1887, a sailor dress with natural waist and pleated skirt was among the designs promoted by the dress reform movement as appropriate for young girls.^[11]

Late 20th century and early 21st century

Although sailor styling is sometimes seen on women's dresses, since the mid-20th century it is mainly associated with dresses for babies and small children.^[12] During the late 20th century sailor styling became associated with maternity dresses, which has led to some negativity towards sailor styles for womenswear and the general idea of a woman dressing 'like a child'.^[13] The maternity clothing designer Liz Lange declared "She shouldn't have to dress like a child just because she's having a child; it's one thing to put a toddler in a sailor suit but it's another thing completely to condemn a grown woman to such a fate."^[14]

See also

• Japanese school uniform
• Sailor hat

Notes and References

1. Book: Lewandowski . Elizabeth J. . The complete costume dictionary . 2011 . Scarecrow Press, Inc. . Lanham, Md. . 9780810840041 .
2. Book: Brooks Picken . Mary . Textiles and sewing materials: Textiles, laces, embroideries and findings, shopping hints, mending, household sewing, trade and sewing terms. 1923. International textbook company. 250. A kind of dress worn by young girls, the waist of which is made in exact imitation of a sailor's blouse. This style of dress derives its name from its creator, Peter Thomson, who was a tailor in the navy....
3. [The Flapper]
4. Web site: Suit: Peter Thomson (American) Date: 1902. The Collection Online. Metropolitan Museum of Art. 25 September 2014.
5. Web site: Sailor Suit: Peter Thomson (American) Date: ca. 1900. The Collection Online . Metropolitan Museum of Art. 25 September 2014.
6. Web site: Boy's Sailor Suit: Shirt and Knickers . Search the Collections: Philadelphia Museum of Art. Philadelphia Museum of Art. 25 September 2014.
7. Book: Mrs. Mathews . The Anchora of Delta Gamma. January 1916. Delta Gamma Fraternity . 168 . https://books.google.com/books?id=Qh_jKz2g_q0C&pg=PA168. Neglected Fraternity Opportunities. (originally printed in The Alpha Phi Quarterly
8. Book: Przybyszewski . Linda. The Lost Art of Dress The Women Who Once Made America Stylish . 2014 . Basic Books . New York . 9780465080472 . 1944 . https://books.google.com/books?id=ef1NAgAAQBAJ&pg=PA1944. Much for Little.
9. Book: Dwyer-McNulty. Sally. Common threads : a cultural history of clothing in American Catholicism . 2014 . UNC Press Books. 9781469614090. 102–104. 1 [edition]. . https://books.google.com/books?id=AZflAgAAQBAJ&pg=PA102 . School Uniforms: A New Look for Catholic Girls.
10. Book: Gold. Annalee. 90 years of fashion . limited. 1991 . Fairchild Fashion Group. New York. 9780870056802. 61.
11. Book: Cunningham. Patricia A.. Reforming women's fashion, 1850-1920 : politics, health, and art. 2003. Kent State University Press. Kent. 9780873387422.
12. Book: Lee . Jaeil . Steen . Camille . Technical sourcebook for designers. 2014. Bloomsbury Pub.. New York . 9781609018566 . 107 . Second.
13. Book: Iovine. Vicky. The Girlfriends' Guide to Pregnancy. 2007. Simon and Schuster. 9781416551874. 129, 131, 135.
14. Book: Lange. Liz. Liz Lange's maternity style : how to look fabulous during the most fashion-challenged time. 2003. Clarkson Potter. New York . 9780609809174 . 8 . 1. .