Richard James (tailor) explained

Richard James
Type:Private
Industry:Tailoring
Predecessors:-->
Successors:-->
Founders:-->
Areas Served:-->
Owners:-->
Website:https://www.richard-james.com

Richard James is a bespoke Savile Row tailors and contemporary menswear company.[1] It was founded in 1992 by designer Richard James, a graduate of Brighton College of Art and a former buyer for the London boutique Browns, and his business partner Sean Dixon. The Design and Brand Director is Toby Lamb, a graduate of Central Saint Martins.[2] Richard James has won both the British Fashion Council's Menswear Designer of the Year and Bespoke Designer of the Year awards.[3]

History

The first of the "new establishment" or "new bespoke movement" of Savile Row – the new, more fashion orientated wave of tailors who moved onto the street in the nineties – Richard James is credited as having done much to revitalise the reputation and fortunes of what is acknowledged to be a world centre of quality tailoring.[4]

Richard James's trademark slim, modern tailoring and bold use of colour have earned it a large celebrity following. Mark Ronson,[5] Daniel Craig,[6] David Beckham,[5] Tinie Tempah,[7] Mo Farah,[8] David Cameron,[9] P Diddy, Jude Law, Tom Cruise, Benicio del Toro, Bryan Ferry, Christian Lacroix, Sir Elton John, Hugh Grant, Manolo Blahnik, Pierce Brosnan,[10] Sir Mick Jagger and Sir Paul McCartney number amongst the company's customers.[11] [12] [13] [14] [15] [16] [17]

Richard James is a founding member of the Savile Row Bespoke Association, the trade organisation that represents bespoke tailoring on Savile Row, but Richard James' fashion-led approach, marketing techniques and introduction of Saturday opening to Savile Row was initially met with concern by some of the street's established tailors.[18]

One early supporter of Richard James, however, was established British couturier Hardy Amies who had opened his business on Savile Row in 1946.[19] "Sir Hardy Amies was marvellous," recalled James. "I well recall his chauffeur-driven car pulling up outside Richard James and Sir Hardy emerging like Lady Bracknell. He'd cast a lugubrious eye over the bright pink and acid green jackets in our window before shaking his head at us in mock disbelief. And then he smiled."[20]

Richard James now has two shops on Savile Row, one of which is home to its bespoke and made-to-measure tailoring, and a flagship store in New York.[21] Bespoke suits start at £4,500 inclusive of VAT.[14] The company's ready-to-wear collections are also sold worldwide through stockists such as Harrods,[22] Selfridges, Bloomingdales, Barneys New York[23] and Lane Crawford.[24]

House style

Richard James's tailoring has always centred on what has become known in the style press as its 'modern classic' style:[25] one or two-button single-breasted suits with slightly longer, more waisted jackets, incorporating deep side vents and a slightly higher armhole to give a slim, definitive silhouette.The overall design philosophy is to produce classic clothing, but to push the barriers through experimenting with fabrics and making bold use of pattern and, particularly, colour.[26] The British fashion writer and academic Colin McDowell has described James as being 'the best colourist working in menswear in London today'.[25]

Collaborations

Throughout its history, Richard James has collaborated on a number of collaborations with a diverse number of companies and individuals, including SpongeBob SquarePants,[27] Elton John,[15] Spencer Tunick (picture, right),[28] Condor Cycles,[29] Umbro and Tretorn.[30]

Timeline

1992The first Richard James shop opens at 37a Savile Row.[31] Richard James's arrival is noticed by Nick Sullivan in British Esquire magazine: "There is an odd atmosphere these days in Savile Row. Nothing tangible, you understand. But from time to time, people stop to peer with uncertainty, with incomprehension, even with vague horror through the plate glass window of No. 37a. There's a new boy on The Row and he's causing quite a stir."[32]

1995The Sunday Telegraph reveals that Queen Elizabeth II's cousin David Linley is measured for his Richard James suits astride his motorcycle.[33] Richard James moves to new, 2,000 square feet premises at 31 Savile Row.[34] 1996Richard James's 'suicide' cinema advertisement, which shows a Richard James attired man throwing himself off the top of a building, is banned.[35]

1996Richard James is awarded the Evening Standard's Eros Award as Retailer of the Year. Richard James is profiled in a feature on cutting edge British design and style in the defining Cool Britannia edition of Vanity Fair.[36]

1998'Dustin Hoffman and Robert De Niro wear Richard James camouflage suits on the cover of George.[37]

2000Richard James moves to 29 Savile Row, the largest premises on the street, which becomes its flagship shop, design studio and showroom.[38]

2001Richard James receives the Menswear Designer of the Year award from the British Fashion Council and the Designer of the Year award at the British GQ Men of the Year awards. Richard James supplies all the suits for its customer Hugh Grant's wardrobe in Bridget Jones's Diary.

2004Richard James launches its trainers in conjunction with Tretorn.[30] Richard James is one of the founding members of the Savile Row Bespoke Association, which is formed to promote and protect the traditions of bespoke tailoring on Savile Row.[39]

2006Central Saint Martins graduate Toby Lamb is appointed Design & Brand Director.[40]

2007Richard James opens another shop, Richard James Bespoke, opposite its Savile Row flagship shop, which is dedicated to bespoke tailoring.[41]

2008Richard James wins Best Advertising Campaign for Autumn/Winter '07 at the Wallpaper Magazine Design Awards.[38] Richard James is the inaugural winner of the Bespoke Designer of the Year award at the British Fashion Council Awards.[42]

2010Richard James launches Mayfair, its contemporary entry level line, which is made available through John Lewis (department store) in the UK and Barneys New York in the USA.[43]

2011Richard James enters ecommerce with the launch of its global online shop.[44] Richard James launches a capsule collection in collaboration with SpongeBob SquarePants.[45] In conjunction with Swarovski, Richard James produces the wardrobe for Sir Elton John's The Million Dollar Piano shows at Caesars Palace in Las Vegas.[46]

2012Richard James celebrates its twentieth birthday.[32] Richard James shows its Spring/Summer '13 collection at London Collections: Men, the British Fashion Council's inaugural menswear-specific fashion week.[47]

2013Richard James shows its Autumn/Winter '13 collection at the second London Collections:Men in January. The refurbished flagship store at 29 Savile Row is unveiled in November.[48]

2014Richard James shows its Autumn/Winter '14 and Spring/Summer '15 collections at London Collections: Men and launches its new, significantly larger online store.[49] Richard James Savile Row eau de toilette is relaunched.[50]

2015Richard James shows its Autumn/Winter '15 and Spring/Summer '16 collections at London Collections: Men.[51] [52]

2016 Richard James show its Autumn/Winter '16 and Spring/Summer '17 collections at London Collections:Men.[53] [54]

2017 Richard James unveils its Autumn/Winter '17 Camofleur collection in January during London Fashion Week Men's.[55] Real estate developer and film producer Charles S. Cohen takes a majority stake in Richard James and assumes the role of chairman.[56] Richard James Bespoke expands upstairs at 19 Clifford Street and now boasts two floors and 150 m2 devoted to bespoke and made-to-measure tailoring.[57]

2018Richard James the man is made an OBE (Order of the British Empire) in the New Year Honours list for services to fashion.[58] Richard James crosses the Atlantic and opens its first New York store at 461 Park Avenue.[59]

2019To celebrate the release of the Elton John biopic Rocketman, Richard James displays some of the special pieces it has made for the star at its Savile Row and Park Avenue, New York stores.[60] [61]

2020All-round changes at the top as Richard James the man steps back from a full-time role on Savile Row and, to much interest, puts his Mayfair penthouse on the market.[62]

2021The Savile Row store's art programme is inaugurated with an exhibition by Jamie Fitzpatrick.[63]

2022Richard James joins a host of names from the worlds of tailoring and fashion to raise money for the Crisis (charity) with the huge Pop-up at the Cop Shop sale at the old West End Central Police Station on Savile Row.[64]

2023The Clifford Street store in London undergoes a complete redesign and reopens as Richard James House, featuring a first-floor lounge, a cocktail bar, an events space, a cloth library, and a fully equipped bespoke tailoring workshop and cutting room.[65]

Notes and References

  1. Web site: Personal Style: Richard James – GQ Style – GQ.co.uk. gq-magazine.co.uk. 2015-01-29.
  2. Web site: Why Men’s Designer Richard James is Beloved by Royalty, from Diddy to Prince William. 27 August 2023 .
  3. Web site: British Fashion Awards. britishfashionawards.com. 2015-01-29.
  4. Web site: The tailors putting Savile Row back on the map – Life & Style – London Evening Standard. Evening Standard. London. 2015-01-29. dead. https://web.archive.org/web/20110823113412/http://www.thisislondon.co.uk/lifestyle/article-23931099-the-tailors-putting-savile-row-back-on-the-map.do. 23 August 2011.
  5. Nick Carvell, "GQ Savile Row Guide", ' 'GQ' ', May 2016
  6. Matthew Hambly, "Style Masterclass", ' 'Esquire' ', March 2014,
  7. Justin Rowlatt, "Tinie Tempah and PM Hit It Off Over Men's Fashion", ' 'BBC Today' ', 9 January 2013
  8. Kate Carter, "Beijing Olympic Hopefuls Kitted Out", ' 'The Guardian' ', 16 June 2008
  9. News: Friedman . Vanessa . Politicians’ wardrobes: David Cameron . June 13, 2024 . Financial Times . April 23, 2010.
  10. You Tube, "The Mecca of Men's Tailoring", ' 'CBS News' ', 25 September 2011
  11. Web site: Mark Ronson/Josephine De La Baume & Lauren Bush Wedding (Vogue.com UK) (Vogue.co.uk). vogue.co.uk. 2015-01-29.
  12. Web site: A La Mále: A LA MÁLE MEETS: Sean Dixon and Richard James – Savile Row's Contemporary Residents . . . . a-la-male.com . dead . https://web.archive.org/web/20111124060450/http://www.a-la-male.com/2011/11/la-male-meets-sean-dixon-and-richard.html . 2011-11-24.
  13. Web site: Savile Row's New Look – Articles Travel + Leisure. travelandleisure.com. 2015-01-29.
  14. Web site: Elegant-Lifestyle.com: Clothing: Shirts & Suits: United Kingdom: Savile Row's Best Bespoke Suit Tailors. Elegant-Lifestyle.com. elegant-lifestyle.com. 2015-01-29.
  15. Web site: Elton John: News: Article . eltonjohn.com . dead . https://web.archive.org/web/20120415014641/http://www.eltonjohn.com/news/article.jsp?ymd=20110929&contentid=25386684 . 2012-04-15.
  16. Web site: Savile Row's Richard James pops-up – Telegraph. fashion.telegraph.co.uk. 2015-01-29.
  17. Web site: Richard James Bespoke, London – London – United Kingdom Qantas Travel Insider. travelinsider.qantas.com.au. 2015-01-29. dead. https://web.archive.org/web/20110308155647/http://travelinsider.qantas.com.au/richard_james_bespoke_london.htm. 8 March 2011.
  18. Web site: It's scissors at dawn in Savile Row – This Britain – UK – The Independent. The independent. 2015-01-29.
  19. Web site: Fit for a Princess: The Hardy Amies exhibition – News – Fashion – The Independent. The independent. 2015-01-29.
  20. Web site: Savile Row: The Master Tailors of British Bespoke The Row Blog – Contemporary Savile Row Tailors, Savile Row Bespoke, Custom-Made, Made-To-Measure Men's Suits. richardjames.co.uk. 2015-01-29.
  21. Web site: Richard James opens US store. 12 December 2018By Olivia. Pinnock. Drapers.
  22. Web site: Richard James Brand Shop Harrods. harrods.com. 2015-01-29.
  23. Web site: Richard James – Men's Clothing & Accessories – Men's Designer Shoes, Designer Denim Jeans, Designer Bags & Wallets Barneys New York. barneys.com. 2015-01-29.
  24. Web site: Luxury Is Now Online. Shop Your Way, Anytime, Anywhere. – Lane Crawford – Shop Designer Brands Online. Lane Crawford.
  25. Web site: Style icons News Design Week. designweek.co.uk. 2015-01-29.
  26. Web site: Style: Another Nutter on the Row: Richard James, like Tommy Nutter before him, is shaking up Savile Row with his range of designer clothes, says Roger Tredre – News – Fashion – The Independent. 2 October 1992 . The independent. 2015-01-29.
  27. Web site: Richard James x Spongebob Squarepants – GQ Style News – GQ.co.uk. gq-magazine.co.uk. 2015-01-29. dead. https://web.archive.org/web/20150113201106/http://www.gq-magazine.co.uk/style/articles/2011-06/06/gq-style-news-richard-james-spongebob-squarepants-suit. 13 January 2015.
  28. Web site: A see through suit designed by Richard James and Spencer Tunick at the Esqu – London Evening Standard. 10 April 2012 . Evening Standard. London. 2015-01-29.
  29. Web site: Richard James x Condor Cycles HYPEBEAST. 23 July 2008 . hypebeast.com. 2015-01-29.
  30. Web site: Snippets Life and style The Guardian. 20 August 2004 . The Guardian. 2015-01-29.
  31. Web site: The tailors putting Savile Row back on the map – Life & Style – London Evening Standard. 10 April 2012 . Evening Standard. London. 2015-01-29.
  32. Web site: The Interview – Richard James The Gentlemans Journal The latest in style and grooming, food and drink, business, lifestyle, culture, sports, restaurants, nightlife, travel and power.. thegentlemansjournal.co.uk. 2015-01-29.
  33. News: The New York Times. The New York Times. 9 November 2010 . 2015-01-29. Sherwood . James .
  34. Web site: Savile Row – Articles – Departures. departures.com. 2015-01-29.
  35. Book: Art for Art's Sake: Aestheticism in Victorian Painting. Prettejohn, E.. Elizabeth Prettejohn. 2007. Yale University Press for The Paul Mellon Centre for Studies in British Art. 9780300135497. 194. 2015-01-29.
  36. Web site: Couture club: Meet the men behind the bespoke-casual revolution – Features – Fashion – The Independent. 18 September 2010 . The independent. 2015-01-29.
  37. limited . 26 August 2023 . Register . HellsKitchenMag . 182854004672438272 .
  38. Web site: Richard James ad campaigns Fashion Wallpaper* Magazine. wallpaper.com. 2015-01-29. dead. https://web.archive.org/web/20120117222720/http://www.wallpaper.com/fashion/richard-james-ad-campaigns/2054. 17 January 2012.
  39. http://www.thetailoringdirectory.co.uk/news/abercrombie-fitch-in-savile-row-it-doesn-t-suit-us-say-traditional-tailors-evening-standard-16th-august
  40. Web site: Richard James Savile Row Suits American Expansion . Avenue Magazine .
  41. Web site: Shortlist. https://web.archive.org/web/20101017052128/http://magazine.shortlist.com/1R4cb45646924e9012.cde/page/52 . 2010-10-17 . dead. 2015-01-29.
  42. Web site: Fashion News, Women's Style Tips & Fashion Trends Grazia Daily. graziadaily.co.uk. 2015-01-29.
  43. Web site: John Lewis ramps up younger branded offer as sales soar News Drapers. 26 March 2010 . drapersonline.com. 2015-01-29.
  44. Web site: Richard James tailors to global consumers with new ecommerce store – Luxury Daily – Internet. 6 December 2011 . luxurydaily.com. 2015-01-29.
  45. Web site: Richard James x SpongeBob SquarePants launch party – GQ Style News – GQ.com (UK) – GQ.co.uk. gq-magazine.co.uk. 2015-01-29. dead. https://web.archive.org/web/20131109014625/http://www.gq-magazine.co.uk/style/articles/2011-05/12/gq-style-news-richard-james-spongebob-squarepants-launch-party-suit. 9 November 2013.
  46. Web site: SWAROVSKI – Sir Elton John shines in Swarovski in 'The Million Dollar Piano' Show. brand.swarovski.com. 2015-01-29.
  47. Web site: Richard James Menswear Spring/Summer 2013 – London Collections: Men – GQ.co.uk. gq-magazine.co.uk. 2015-01-29. dead. https://web.archive.org/web/20120620221227/http://www.gq-magazine.co.uk/style/articles/2012-06/17/richard-james-collection-spring-summer-menswear-2013-photos. 20 June 2012.
  48. Web site: Savile Row tailor Richard James London Collections: Men interview for Autumn Winter 2013 – GQ.co.uk. gq-magazine.co.uk. 2015-01-29. dead. https://web.archive.org/web/20150924045501/http://www.gq-magazine.co.uk/style/articles/2012-12/07/richard-james-london-collections-men-interview-autumn-winter-2013. 24 September 2015.
  49. Web site: US fashion brand Carfina at Summer '15 collections. Cision. 15 May 2015.
  50. Web site: The return of Richard James Savile Row – Perfume Society : Perfume Society. 26 October 2014 . perfumesociety.org. 2015-01-29.
  51. Web site: Richard James Autumn/Winter 2014 Menswear show report. British Vogue.
  52. Web site: 4 big summer trends you need to know from LCM. Nick. Carvell. British GQ. 16 June 2015 .
  53. Web site: Richard James At London Collections: Men Autumn / Winter 2016 . esquire.co.uk . dead . https://web.archive.org/web/20160116234430/http://www.esquire.co.uk/style/fashion/9333/richard-james-at-london-collections-men-autumn-winter-2016/ . 2016-01-16.
  54. Web site: Richard James Spring 2017 Menswear Fashion Show. Vogue. 12 June 2016 .
  55. Web site: Richard James unveils AW17 – Dust PR London. dustpr.com.
  56. Web site: Property investor acquires majority stake in Richard James. Tara. Hounslea. Drapers. March 2017.
  57. Web site: Richard James increases Savile Row footprint. 12 October 2017.
  58. Web site: Richard James: The Rebel of Savile Row Receives OBE. Teo Van den. Broeke. British GQ. 3 May 2019.
  59. Web site: Traversing the Atlantic: Richard James to Open First New York Store. Samantha. Conti. 9 May 2017.
  60. Web site: Richard James pays homage to Elton John's outré style. Mark C. O'Flaherty. Financial Times. London.
  61. Web site: Richard James celebrates Rocketman and Elton John. Kristopher. Fraser. FashionUnited. 24 May 2019.
  62. Web site: British Fashion Designer Richard James' Penthouse. Bill. Cary. 6 November 2020. Mansion Global.
  63. Web site: Jamie Fitzpatrick art work at Richard James. November 2021. ArtRabbit.
  64. Web site: Tailors of Savile Row Join Arms for a Pop-Up Shop in Support of Crisis. December 2022. 10magazine.
  65. Web site: Savile Row Tailoring House Unveils The House Of Richard James. March 2023. Forbes.

This article is licensed under the GNU Free Documentation License. It uses material from the Wikipedia article "Richard James (tailor)".

Except where otherwise indicated, Everything.Explained.Today is © Copyright 2009-2024, A B Cryer, All Rights Reserved. Cookie policy.