Ramón Julián Puigblanqué Explained
Ramón Julián Puigblanque |
Nationality: | Spanish |
Birth Date: | 9 November 1981 |
Birth Place: | Vic (Barcelona, Spain) |
Height: | 159 cm |
Weight: | 48 kg |
Highestonsight: | [1] |
Knownfor: | Winning 2 World Championships and 21 World Cup stages |
Updated: | November 13, 2017 |
Show-Medals: | yes |
Ramón Julián Puigblanque (also known as Ramonet, which means little Ramon in Catalan language; born November 9, 1981, in Vic) is a professional Spanish rock climber specializing in competition lead climbing and sport climbing. He won two World Championships, in 2007[2] and 2011,[3] three European Championships, in 2004[4] 2010[5] and 2015,[6] and one Lead Climbing World Cup in 2010.[7] From 2001 to 2016, he participated in 16 seasons of the World Cup, winning 21 World Cup stages. He has also redpointed several sport routes above, and made the first free ascent of La Rambla.
Climbing career
Competition climbing
He started climbing when he was a child with his parents[8] and competed in senior categories from 2001. On November 17, 2002, he took his first victory and first podium in the Lead World Cup, in Kranj, which was the last stage of the 2002 season.[9]
In 2004, he won the gold medal at the European Championships in Lecco, Italy.
In 2007, he took his first gold medal at the World Championships in Avilés, Spain, and ended the Lead World Cup in second place.[10]
In 2010, he won his first Lead World Cup title, with three wins and a second place and took his second gold medal at the European Championships in Imst, Austria.
In 2011, he won his second gold medal at the World Championships in Arco, Italy and ended the Lead World Cup in second place.[11]
Rock climbing
On March 8, 2003, he came to wider attention with the first free ascent of La Rambla, in Siurana, one of the first sport climbing routes in history, and the highest grade at that time.[12] In the same year he ended the Lead World Cup in second place with three wins, two seconds and two podiums finishes. The Cup was won by Alexandre Chabot, with five wins and two seconds.[13]
On May 29, 2006, he succeeded in onsighting the sport route Suma O in Cuenca, Spain. Puigblanque became the fourth person ever to onsight at grade 8c after Yuji Hirayama, Tomáš Mrázek and Patxi Usobiaga.[14] [15]
On October 11, 2011, he became the third person ever to onsight a sport climbing route at grade, after Patxi Usobiaga and Adam Ondra, with the onsight of The Crew in Rifle, Colorado.[16] [17]
Rankings
See also: Best IFSC results.
Climbing World Championships
Youth
Adult
Climbing European Championships
Number of medals in the Climbing World Cup
Lead
Season | Gold | Silver | Bronze | Total |
---|
2002 | 1 | | | 1 |
2003 | 3 | 2 | 2 | 7 |
2004 | | | | 0 |
2005 | 2 | 1 | 1 | 4 |
2006 | 2 | | 1 | 3 |
2007 | 1 | 3 | | 4 |
2008 | 1 | 1 | | 2 |
2009 | | 1 | | 1 |
2010 | 3 | 1 | | 4 |
2011 | 2 | 3 | 2 | 7 |
2012 | 3 | 1 | | 4 |
2013 | 2 | | 1 | 3 |
2014 | | 1 | | 1 |
2015 | 1 | | 1 | 2 |
Total | 21 | 14 | 8 | 43 | |
Notable ascents
The table below shows the impressively large number of routes graded or more ascended by Puigblanque in about 16 years, from August 10, 2001 (when he redpointed his first 8a) to November 27, 2017. The total number is 1123, of which 13 were at and 345 were onsights, including 1 onsight at .[18] [19]
Number of ascended routes!Grade !! Redpoint !! Flash !! On-sight !! Total | 13 | | | 13 |
| 36 | | | 36 |
| 85 | | 1 | 86 |
| 4 | | | 4 |
| 134 | 2 | 6 | 142 |
| 152 | 2 | 22 | 176 |
| 134 | 2 | 55 | 191 |
| 100 | 2 | 92 | 194 |
| 105 | 7 | 169 | 281 |
Total | 763 | 15 | 345 | 1123 | |
- Mejorando Imagen - Margalef (ESP) - July 26, 2013 - First ascent. Initially graded 9a, Alex Megos would upgrade the route to 9b after his ascent in April 2021.[20]
- Nit de bruixes - Margalef (ESP) - July 1, 2012 - Second ascent (first ascent by Iker Pou)[21]
- Directa Open your mind - Santa Linya (ESP) - December 8, 2008 - First ascent[25]
- Le Cadre Nouvelle Version - Céüse (FRA) - August 3, 2011
- Duele la realidad - Oliana (ESP) - November 1, 2010 - First ascent[28]
- Era Vella - Margalef (ESP) - June 5, 2010 - Second ascent (first ascent by Chris Sharma)
- Supernowa - Vadiello (ESP) - September 12, 2009
- El Gran Bellanco - Montanejos (ESP) - May 1, 2009 - First ascent by Pedro Pons, 2003
- La Novena enmienda - Santa Linya (ESP) - December 9, 2008
- Fabelita r2 - Santa Linya (ESP) - December 9, 2008
- Fuck The system - Santa Linya (ESP) - November 29, 2008[30]
- Victimas Perez - Margalef (ESP) - October 26, 2008 - First ascent
- Gancho perfecto - Margalef (ESP) - July 5, 2008 - Second ascent (first ascent by Chris Sharma)[31]
- El templo del cafe - Alquezar (ESP) - March 24, 2008
- M. ALBA - Savassona (ESP) - December 2, 2007
- Definicion de resistencia democrata - Terradets (ESP) - November 20, 2007[32]
- Esclatamasters - (ESP) - April 17, 2006 - First ascent
- Estado critico - Siurana (ESP) - March 15, 2004 - First ascent[33]
- Amistad - Rodellar (ESP) - September 11, 2009[35]
- Malsoñando - Gandía (ESP) - November 23, 2006
- iron man r2 - Rodellar (ESP) - September 10, 2006
See also
External links
Notes and References
- Web site: Ramon Julian Sends Three New 5.14's in Spain. rockandice.com. 4 April 2013. 11 May 2013.
- Web site: IX Climbing World Championship Aviles: full results. planetmountain.com. 24 September 2007. 6 June 2013.
- Web site: Final Lead Men report. arco2011.it. Vinicio Stefanello. 6 June 2013.
- Web site: UIAA European Championship - Lecco (ITA) 2004. ifsc-climbing.org. 27 June 2004. 6 June 2013.
- Web site: European Championship 2010, the results. planetmountain.com. Vinicio Stefanello. 21 September 2010. 6 June 2013.
- Web site: European Championship - Chamonix (FRA) 2015. ifsc-climbing.org. 12 July 2015. 26 July 2017.
- Web site: Ramón Julián, campeón de la Copa del Mundo. desnivel.com. 15 November 2010. 6 June 2013. Spanish.
- Web site: Entrevista a Ramon Julián. feec.cat. Xavier Maduell. December 2010. 6 June 2013. Spanish. dead. https://archive.today/20130414210730/http://www.feec.cat/entrevista-ramon-juli%C3%A1n-v%C3%A8rtex-n%C3%BAm-233-novembre-desembre-2010. 14 April 2013.
- Web site: UIAA Worldcup - Kranj (SLO) 2002 - Result: MEN lead. ifsc-climbing.org. 17 November 2002. 6 June 2013.
- Web site: World Cup Lead 2007 won by Usobiaga and Vidmar. planetmountain.com. 20 November 2007. 6 June 2013.
- Web site: Puigblanque reigns in Spain, along with Eiter, Kim and Markovic. planetmountain.com. 29 November 2011. 6 June 2013.
- Web site: Ramonet y La Rambla, 9a+. desnivel.com. 17 March 2003. 6 June 2013. Spanish.
- Web site: UIAA Climbing-Worldcup 2003: MEN lead. ifsc-climbing.org. 31 December 2003. 6 June 2013.
- Web site: Ramonet Onsights 5.14b. climbing.com. Dougald MacDonald. June 2006 . 6 June 2013.
- Web site: Ramonet, 8c a vista. desnivel.com. 31 May 2006. 6 June 2013. Spanish.
- Web site: Ramon Julien Puigblanque 8c+ on-sight. planetmountain.com. 13 October 2011. 6 June 2013.
- Web site: Ramon Julián escala 8c+ a vista con 'The crew', en Rifle (EE.UU). desnivel.com. 13 October 2011. 6 June 2013. Spanish.
- Web site: Puigblanque. Ramon Julian. List of climbed routes. 8a.nu. November 27, 2017.
- Web site: Puigblanque. Ramon Julian. List of climbed boulder problems. 8a.nu. November 27, 2017.
- Web site: Mejorando Imagen. September 10, 2022.
- Web site: 9a+ e 9a+/b per Ramonet. up-climbing.com. July 2, 2012. July 6, 2012. dead. https://web.archive.org/web/20160305073349/http://www.up-climbing.com/it/news/falesia/9a--e-9a--b-per-ramonet. March 5, 2016.
- Web site: Ramonet, 9a+ a Santa Linya. up-climbing.com. June 27, 2012. July 1, 2012. dead. https://web.archive.org/web/20160305143646/http://www.up-climbing.com/it/news/boulder/ramonet--9a--a-santa-linya. March 5, 2016.
- Web site: Ramonet: 2^ ripetizione di Demencia Senil 9a+. up-climbing.com. October 13, 2010. January 8, 2012.
- Web site: 3rd ascent of Papichulo by Ramonet. ukclimbing.com. Björn Pohl. 22 March 2009 . August 27, 2012.
- Web site: Santa Linya e Ramon Julian Puigblanque. planetmountain.com. December 10, 2008. August 30, 2012.
- Web site: Ramonet y La Rambla, 9a+. desnivel.com. March 17, 2003. January 8, 2012.
- Web site: Otro noveno de Ramonet con 'Sankukai' en Entraygues. desnivel.com. August 8, 2011. January 8, 2012.
- Web site: 9a FA by Ramonet. ukclimbing.com. Björn Pohl. 2 November 2010 . January 8, 2012.
- Web site: Ramonet makes 2nd ascent of Samfaina, 9a. ukclimbing.com. Björn Pohl. 5 July 2010 . January 8, 2012.
- Web site: Ramón Julián repite Fuck the system (9a). desnivel.com. December 1, 2008. August 27, 2012.
- Web site: Ramón Julián repite Gancho perfecto (9a). desnivel.com. July 7, 2008. January 8, 2012.
- Web site: Ramonet repite Definición de resistencia demócrata (9a+). desnivel.com. November 22, 2007. January 8, 2012.
- Web site: Ramón Julián en Estado crítico. desnivel.com. March 17, 2004. August 27, 2012.
- Web site: Ramon Julian 8c+ a vista. up-climbing.com. October 13, 2011. January 8, 2012. dead. https://web.archive.org/web/20111016014833/http://www.up-climbing.com/it/news/falesia/ramon-julian-8c--a-vista. October 16, 2011.
- Web site: Ramonet on form. ukclimbing.com. Björn Pohl. 13 September 2009 . January 8, 2012.
- Web site: 8c onsight by Ramonet. June 2006 . ukclimbing.com. January 8, 2012.