Patxi Usobiaga Explained
| Patxi Usobiaga Lakunza |
| Birth Date: | 7 September 1980 |
| Birth Place: | Eibar, Spain |
| Occupation: | Professional rock climber |
| Height: | 174 cm |
| Weight: | 62 kg |
| Typeofclimber: | Sport climbing |
| Knownfor: | Winning 2 World Cups and being first who onsighted an route |
| Updated: | October 31, 2017 |
| Show-Medals: | yes |
Patxi Usobiaga Lakunza (born September 7, 1980), best known as Patxi Usobiaga, is a Spanish professional rock climber, sports climber and boulderer. He is known for winning two Lead Climbing World Cups in a row, and for being the first-ever climber in history to onsight an route.
Biography
Usobiaga started climbing in Atxarte when he was 10 years old. For four years he was belayed by his father. When he was 15, he climbed his first 8a route, ConanDax Librarian, in Araotz. When he was 18 he redpointed his first 8b route, Parva Naturalia, in Araotz.
From 1997 to 1999 he participated in youth competitions. In 2000, he started competing at the Lead Climbing World Cup. In 2003 he earned his first gold medal in Edinburgh. When he was 26 he earned his first Lead climbing World Cup.[1] Next year, he won his second one.[2] Due to these outstanding achievements he was awarded the Salewa Rock Award in 2007.
In 2009 he won the Lead Climbing World Championships in Qinghai (CHN).[3] At the end of 2009 he underwent a shoulder surgery and after three months of rehabilitative therapy he started training again.
In June 2010 a car accident caused a painful slipped disk.[4] In 2011, he announced his retirement from competitions.
He climbed 267 routes graded between 8a and 9a+, 158 of which were onsighted. He was the first climber who onsighted a 8c+ route (Bizi Euskaraz, in Etxauri, 2007).[5]
Rankings
See also: Best IFSC results.
Climbing World Championships
| 1999 | 2001 | 2003 | 2005 | 2007 | 2009 |
|---|
| Lead | 61 | 49 | 2 | 2 | 2 | 1 |
| Bouldering | - | - | - | - | - | 21 | |
Climbing European Championships
Number of medals in the Climbing World Cup
Lead
| Season | Gold | Silver | Bronze | Total |
|---|
| 2003 | 1 | 1 | | 2 |
| 2004 | | | 2 | 2 |
| 2005 | | 1 | 1 | 2 |
| 2006 | 1 | 4 | 1 | 6 |
| 2007 | 1 | 3 | 1 | 5 |
| 2008 | 1 | | 1 | 2 |
| 2009 | 1 | 3 | | 4 |
| 2010 | 1 | 1 | | 2 |
| Total | 6 | 13 | 6 | 25 | |
Rock climbing
Number of ascended routes:
- Pachamama – Oliana (ESP) – November 10, 2017[6]
- La novena enmienda – Santa Linya (ESP) – December 3, 2007
- Hades – Nassereith (AUT) – August 23, 2009 – Redpointed on second attempt. First ascent by Andreas Bindhammer, 2008[10]
- Nice to eat you – Pierrot beach (FRA) – July 22, 2008 – Second ascent. First ascent by Mike Fussilier
- Fabela Pa La Enmienda – Santa Linya (ESP) – March 22, 2008
- Mendeku – Egino (ESP) – December 16, 2007 – Second ascent. First ascent by Iker Pou
- Fuck The system – Santa Linya (ESP) – December 9, 2007 – First ascent
- Faxismoaren txontxogiloak – Etxauri (ESP) – December 22, 2007 – First ascent
- Begi Puntuan – Etxauri (ESP) – December 1, 2006 – First ascent[12]
- Psikoterapia – Valdegobia (ESP) – July 8, 2004 – First ascent
- Iñi Ameriketan – Baltzola (ESP) – April 1, 2003
- Il Domani – Baltzola (ESP) – March 21, 2003 – First ascent
- Bizi Euskaraz – Etxauri (ESP) – December 11, 2007 – First ascent and first-ever 8c+ onsight in history. Project by Ekaitz Maiz.
- Absinth – Sparchen (AUT) – July 25, 2010[13]
- Nuska – Baltzola (ESP) – August 1, 2008
- Home sweet home – Pierrot Beach (FRA) – July 20, 2008[14]
- Mosca cullonera – Montsant (ESP) – November 30, 2007
- Pata negra – Rodellar (Bierge, (ESP) – October 7, 2006[16]
- Gaua – Lezain (ESP) – October 10, 2005[17]
See also
Notes and References
- Web site: World Cup Lead 2006: vittoria di Patxi Usobiaga e Angela Eiter. planetmountain.com. Vinicio Stefanello. November 23, 2006. January 8, 2012.
- Web site: World Cup Lead 2007 a Usobiaga e Vidmar. planetmountain.com. November 19, 2007. January 8, 2012.
- Web site: Campionati del mondo di arrampicata – Qinghai (CHN). planetmountain.com. Vinicio Stefanello. July 7, 2009. January 8, 2012.
- Web site: Patxi Usobiaga, frenado por una lesión. desnivel.com. Isaac Fernández. February 4, 2011. January 8, 2012.
- Web site: Patxi Usobiaga show: Bizi euskaraz primo 8c+ a vista del mondo. planetmountain.com. December 13, 2007. January 8, 2012.
- Web site: Patxi Usobiaga surpasses himself on Pachamama at Oliana. planetmountain.com. November 14, 2017. November 15, 2017.
- Web site: Patxi Usobiaga a spasso su La Rambla, e non solo. planetmountain.com. December 4, 2007. January 8, 2012.
- Web site: Patxi Usobiaga ripete Realization 9a+ a Ceuse. planetmountain.com. August 2, 2004. January 8, 2012.
- Web site: Usobiaga ripete Punt-X 9a. up-climbing.com. September 10, 2010. January 8, 2012. dead. https://web.archive.org/web/20160308053347/http://www.up-climbing.com/it/news/falesia/usobiaga-ripete-punt-x-9a. March 8, 2016.
- Web site: I limiti dell'arrampicata: il 9a come riscaldamento?. planetmountain.com. September 15, 2009. January 8, 2012.
- Web site: Patxi Usobiaga repeats Action Directe F9a. ukclimbing.com. Jack Geldard. 27 October 2008 . January 8, 2012.
- Web site: Usobiaga ripete Begi puntuan, Marin Garcia e Sharma ripetono La Rambla 9a+. planetmountain.com. December 4, 2006. January 8, 2012.
- Web site: 8c a vista per Patxi Usobiaga. up-climbing.com. July 28, 2010. January 8, 2012. dead. https://web.archive.org/web/20100801171436/http://www.up-climbing.com/it/news/falesia/8c-a-vista-per-patxi-usobiaga. August 1, 2010.
- Web site: Patxi Usobiaga Onsights 5.14b/c. climbing.com. Dougald MacDonald. January 8, 2012. dead. https://web.archive.org/web/20110826173745/http://www.climbing.com/news/hotflashes/patxi_usobiaga_onsights_514bc/. August 26, 2011.
- Web site: Otro 8c a vista para Usobiaga. desnivel.com. July 17, 2008. January 8, 2012.
- Web site: Usobiaga Onsights Second 8c. ukclimbing.com. Chris Van Leuven. 15 October 2006 . January 8, 2012.
- Web site: Patxi Usobiaga, 8c a vista con Gaua. desnivel.com. November 10, 2005. January 8, 2012.
