North Face (Everest) Explained

The North Face is the northern side of Mount Everest.[1] George Mallory's body was found on the North face by the 1999 Mallory and Irvine Research Expedition.[1] The North Face is a place where one climber noted, "a simple slip would mean death."[1]

Routes

Standard route from north, mainly identical with Mallory's route in 1924; high camps on c.7700 m and 8300 m (indicated by two triangles), present day camp on 8300 m is located a bit further west (for general reference, the route's topographic map and elevation profile can be found here).
Zakharov Couloir.
Messner's traverse from north ridge to Norton Couloir in 1980 ("Everest Solo by Fair Means") w/o O2.
Great Couloir or Norton Couloir.
Complete northeast ridge with Three Pinnacles; Japanese route to the top. Climbed before by Russell Brice & Comp., but only the purple-marked part of the ridge, without going to the summit; descent via standard route.
American 1963, "The West Ridge" on the 1963 American Mount Everest expedition.
Yugoslavian route, 1979.
Hornbein Couloir.
1Resting place of Mallory's body, discovered in 1999 (graveyard with more than 15 bodies, according to Conrad Anker).
21st Step, resting place of Francys Arsentiev, "Green Boots", David Sharp.
32nd Pinnacle, resting place of Peter Boardman (+1982) in 1992.
?2nd step, base at 8605 m, c.30 m high, (difficulty: 5–9/10).
(a)Point at ca. 8321 m, reached by George Ingle Finch with supplementary oxygen in 1922.
(b)Point at 8572.8 m on the western side of the Couloir, reached by Edward Felix Norton 1924 without supplementary oxygen (Norton preferred climbing the wall rather than climbing the ridge).
(c)Area left out by the Yugoslavian party on their "complete West Ridge" ascent in 1979.
(d)Difficult area that forced Americans, Tom Hornbein and Willi Unsoeld, to traverse from the west ridge to the north face in 1963.
Changtse is in the foreground

See also

External links

Notes and References

  1. Web site: The Other Side of Everest: Climbing the North Face Through the Killer Storm. Matt. Dickinson. October 5, 2011. Crown. Google Books.