The North Face is the northern side of Mount Everest.[1] George Mallory's body was found on the North face by the 1999 Mallory and Irvine Research Expedition.[1] The North Face is a place where one climber noted, "a simple slip would mean death."[1]
Standard route from north, mainly identical with Mallory's route in 1924; high camps on c.7700 m and 8300 m (indicated by two triangles), present day camp on 8300 m is located a bit further west (for general reference, the route's topographic map and elevation profile can be found here). | ||
Zakharov Couloir. | ||
Messner's traverse from north ridge to Norton Couloir in 1980 ("Everest Solo by Fair Means") w/o O2. | ||
Great Couloir or Norton Couloir. | ||
Complete northeast ridge with Three Pinnacles; Japanese route to the top. Climbed before by Russell Brice & Comp., but only the purple-marked part of the ridge, without going to the summit; descent via standard route. | ||
American 1963, "The West Ridge" on the 1963 American Mount Everest expedition. | ||
Yugoslavian route, 1979. | ||
Hornbein Couloir. | ||
†1 | Resting place of Mallory's body, discovered in 1999 (graveyard with more than 15 bodies, according to Conrad Anker). | |
†2 | 1st Step, resting place of Francys Arsentiev, "Green Boots", David Sharp. | |
†3 | 2nd Pinnacle, resting place of Peter Boardman (+1982) in 1992. | |
? | 2nd step, base at 8605 m, c.30 m high, (difficulty: 5–9/10). | |
(a) | Point at ca. 8321 m, reached by George Ingle Finch with supplementary oxygen in 1922. | |
(b) | Point at 8572.8 m on the western side of the Couloir, reached by Edward Felix Norton 1924 without supplementary oxygen (Norton preferred climbing the wall rather than climbing the ridge). | |
(c) | Area left out by the Yugoslavian party on their "complete West Ridge" ascent in 1979. | |
(d) | Difficult area that forced Americans, Tom Hornbein and Willi Unsoeld, to traverse from the west ridge to the north face in 1963. | |
Changtse is in the foreground |