Muriel Sarkany Explained
| Muriel Sarkany |
| Nationality: | Belgian |
| Birth Date: | 5 August 1974 |
| Birth Place: | Brussels, Belgium |
| Occupation: | Professional rock climber |
| Height: | 153 cm |
| Weight: | 47 kg |
| Knownfor: | First person, male or female, to win the annual lead climbing World Cup 5 times, 4th Woman in history to climb |
| Updated: | October 16, 2017 |
Muriel Sarkany (born August 5, 1974) is a Belgian professional rock climber who specialized in competition lead climbing where she is known for winning five Climbing World Cups. She also specialized in outdoor sport climbing and is considered the fourth-ever female climber in history to redpoint a -graded route, which was PuntX, in Gorges du Loup, in FRA.
Climbing career
Competition climbing
Sarkany started climbing at the age of 17 and at the age of 18 started participating in international lead climbing competitions. She became Youth World Champion in Basel in 1992.
She won the silver medal three times for lead climbing at the World Championships (1997, 1999, and 2001), and the gold medal in 2003.[1]
Sarkany was the 1998 European Lead Champion and won the bronze medal at the 2002 European Lead Championships.
After a break from competition climbing in 2005 and 2006, she returned in 2007 to win the silver medal at the World Championships in Avilles, and the bronze medal at the World Cup that year.
She won the Lead Climbing World Cup 5 times in 1997, 1999, 2001, 2002, and 2003.
She retired in 2010, and as of 2022, still holds the record for the most Lead World Cup gold medals (male or female).
Rock climbing
After retiring from competition climbing, Sarkany devoted herself to outdoor rock climbing. In November 2013, at the age of 39, she became the fourth-ever woman in history to climb a graded route when she ascended PuntX in the (Gorges du Loup, FRA).
In 2016, at 43 years old, Sarkany ascended Era Vella in Margalef in Spain, becoming the first woman aged over 40 to climb a graded route.
Rankings
See also: Best IFSC results.
World Championships Lead Climbing
Early on, she won a gold medal in the junior category. In the adult difficulty, after three silver medals at the 1997, 1999, and 2001 UIAA Climbing World Championships, Muriel Sarkany became the 2003 World Climbing Champion and is a finalist in the 2007 IFSC Climbing World Championships.
Climbing World Cup
Muriel won 31 podiums at the World Cup of Difficulty.
- Winner of the difficulty world cup for the years 1997, 1999, 2001, 2002 and 2003.
- Silver medal for the years 1995, 1998, 2000 and 2004.
- Bronze medal in 2007.
Climbing European Championships
| Discipline | 1996 | 1998 | 2000 | 2002 | 2006 | 2008 | 2010 |
|---|
| Lead | 5 | 1 | 5 | 3 | 12 | 13 | 18 |
| Bouldering | - | - | - | - | - | 12 | - | |
Number of medals in the Climbing World Cup
Lead
| Season | Gold | Silver | Bronze | Total |
|---|
| 1995 | | 2 | | 2 |
| 1996 | | 1 | | 1 |
| 1997 | 3 | 1 | | 4 |
| 1998 | 1 | 2 | | 3 |
| 1999 | 1 | 2 | 1 | 4 |
| 2000 | 1 | 1 | 2 | 4 |
| 2001 | 2 | 3 | | 5 |
| 2002 | 4 | 2 | | 6 |
| 2003 | 5 | 1 | 1 | 7 |
| 2004 | 3 | 2 | 1 | 6 |
| 2006 | | | 1 | 1 |
| 2007 | | 3 | | 2 |
| Total | 21 | 20 | 6 | 47 | |
Other tributes
She is represented on the painting in Namur, in Belgium.
Rock climbing
- Punt-X - Gorges du Loup (FRA) - November 21, 2013 - At the time, Sarkany became the 4th female climber in history to climb a 9a route.[4]
- Ultimate Sacrifice - Gorges du Loup (FRA) - 2012
- Rollito Sharma Extension - Santa Linya - February 4, 2012
- Last soul sacrifice - Gorges du Loup (FRA) - September 30, 2011
- Quoussaï les maux de la fin - Gorges du Loup (FRA) - September 13, 2011[7]
- Hot chili X - Gorges du Loup (FRA) - August 28, 2011[8]
- Drop City - Antalya (TUR) - April 5, 2008[9]
- Hot Chilli Beans Volcano - Gorges du Loup (FRA) - August 7, 2011
- Soul Sacrifice - Gorges du Loup (FRA) - July 25, 2011
- Collection automne hiver - Saint-Léger-du-Ventoux (FRA) - October 17, 2010
- Trio Ternura - Santa Linya (ESP) - May 31, 2010[10]
- Rolito Sharma - Santa Linya (ESP) - December 10, 2009[11]
- Philippe cuisinière - Rodellar (ESP) - October 3, 2009
- El chorreras - Rodellar (ESP) - September 29, 2009
- Mortal combat - Castillon (FRA) - December 10, 2003
- Skyline - Bürs (AUT) - July 18, 2003
See also
Notes and References
- Web site: July 14, 2003 . planetmountain.com . Sarkany e Mrazek Campioni del mondo Difficoltà. Jenny Lavarda è 4a . March 10, 2012.
- Web site: Sarkany climbs Era Vella in Margalef. Up-Climbing.
- Web site: Sarkany redpoints 9a. 30 September 2017 . Planet Mountain.
- Web site: Sarkany climbs 9a at the Gorges du Loup. Planet Mountain.
- Web site: Sarkany climbs La Rubla (8c+). mountainblog.it.
- Web site: Ancora 8c per Muriel Sarkany. up-climbing.com. March 10, 2012. March 10, 2012. dead. https://web.archive.org/web/20160309054935/http://www.up-climbing.com/it/news/falesia/ancora-8c-per-muriel-sarkany. March 9, 2016.
- Web site: Secondo 8c estivo per Muriel Sarkany. https://archive.today/20130412034708/http://www.up-climbing.com/it/news/falesia/secondo-8c-estivo-per-muriel-sarkany. dead. April 12, 2013. planetmountain.com. September 16, 2011. December 23, 2011.
- Web site: Hot chili X by Muriel Sarkany and more. ukclimbing.com. Björn Pohl. 31 August 2011 . December 23, 2011.
- Web site: First 8c for Muriel. belclimb.be. April 9, 2008. December 23, 2011.
- Web site: Muriel Sarkany enchaîne Trio Ternura 8b+. https://archive.today/20120723161022/http://www.belclimb.be/news-details.asp?lgid=2&id=1977. dead. July 23, 2012. belclimb.be. June 3, 2010. December 23, 2011.
- Web site: Muriel Sarkany sent Rollito Sharma 8b+. belclimb.be. December 22, 2009. December 23, 2011.
