Kangchenjunga Explained

Kangchenjunga
Elevation M:8586
Elevation Ref:
Prominence M:3922
Prominence Ref:
Range:Himalayas
Map:India Sikkim#Nepal Province1#India#Nepal
Coordinates:27.7025°N 88.1467°W
First Ascent:25 May 1955 by Joe Brown and George Band on the 1955 British Kangchenjunga expedition
(First winter ascent 11 January 1986 by Jerzy Kukuczka and Krzysztof Wielicki)
Easiest Route:glacier/snow/ice climb

Kangchenjunga, also spelled Kanchenjunga, Kanchanjanghā and Khangchendzonga, is the third-highest mountain in the world. Its summit lies at in a section of the Himalayas, the Kangchenjunga Himal, which is bounded in the west by the Tamur River, in the north by the Lhonak River and Jongsang La, and in the east by the Teesta River. It lies in the border region between Koshi Province of Nepal and Sikkim state of India, with the two peaks West and Kangbachen in Nepal's Taplejung District and the other three peaks Main, Central and South directly on the border.

Until 1852, Kangchenjunga was assumed to be the highest mountain in the world, but calculations and measurements by the Great Trigonometrical Survey of India in 1849 showed that Mount Everest, known as Peak XV at the time, is actually higher. After allowing for further verification of all calculations, it was officially announced in 1856 that Kangchenjunga is the third-highest mountain of the world.

The Kangchenjunga is a sacred mountain in Nepal and Sikkim and was first climbed on 25 May 1955 by Joe Brown and George Band, who were part of the 1955 British Kangchenjunga expedition. They stopped just short of the true summit, keeping a promise given to Tashi Namgyal, the Chogyal of the Kingdom of Sikkim, that the top of the mountain would remain inviolate. The Indian side of the mountain is off-limits to climbers. In 2016, the adjoining Khangchendzonga National Park was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Etymology

Kangchenjunga is the official spelling adopted by Douglas Freshfield, Alexander Mitchell Kellas and the Royal Geographical Society that gives the best indication of the Tibetan pronunciation. Freshfield referred to the spelling used by the Indian Government since the late 19th century. Alternative spellings include Kanchenjunga, Khangchendzonga and Kangchendzönga.[1] [2] [3]

The brothers Hermann, Adolf and Robert Schlagintweit explained the local name 'Kanchinjínga' meaning "The five treasures of the high snow" as originating from the Tibetan word "gangs" in Tibetan pronounced as /kaŋ/ meaning snow, ice; "chen" in Tibetan pronounced as /tɕen/ meaning great; "mdzod" meaning treasure; "lnga" meaning five.[4] Local Lhopo people believe that the treasures are hidden but reveal themselves to the devout when the world is in peril; the treasures comprise salt, gold, turquoise and precious stones, sacred scriptures, invincible armor or ammunition, grain and medicine.[5]

Geography

The Kangchenjunga Himal section of the Himalayas lies both in Nepal and India and encompasses 16 peaks over . In the north, it is limited by the Lhonak Chu, Goma Chu and Jongsang La, and in the east by the Teesta River. The western limit runs from the Jongsang La down the Gingsang and Kangchenjunga glaciers and the rivers of Ghunsa and Tamur.[6] [7] It lies in the border region between Koshi Province of Nepal and Sikkim state of India, with the peaks West and Kangbachen in Nepal's Taplejung District,[8] and three of the five peaks, namely Main, Central and South, directly on the border.[9]

Kanchenjunga rises about south of the general alignment of the Great Himalayan range about east-southeast of Mount Everest as the crow flies. South of the southern face of Kanchenjunga runs the high Singalila Ridge that separates Sikkim from Nepal and northern West Bengal.[10] Until 1852, Kangchenjunga was assumed to be the highest mountain in the world, but calculations and measurements by the Great Trigonometrical Survey of India in 1849 showed that Mount Everest, known as Peak XV at the time, is actually higher. After allowing for further verification of all calculations, it was officially announced in 1856 that Kangchenjunga was the third-highest mountain[11] after Everest and K2 of Karakoram.[12]

Kangchenjunga and its satellite peaks form a huge mountain massif.[13] The massif's five highest peaks are listed in the following table.

Name of peakHeightProminenceNearest Higher NeighbourLocation
metersFtsmetersFts
Kangchenjunga Main[14] 8,58628,16927.7031°N 88.1478°W3,92212,867Mount Everest – South SummitMangan district, Sikkim, India / Taplejung, Koshi Province, Nepal
Yalung Kang (Kangchenjunga West)[15] 8,50527,90427.705°N 88.1367°W135443KangchenjungaTaplejung, Koshi Province, Nepal
Kangchenjunga Central[16] 8,48227,82827.6961°N 88.1511°W32105Kangchenjunga SouthMangan district, Sikkim, India / Taplejung, Koshi Province, Nepal
Kangchenjunga South[17] 8,49427,86727.6917°N 88.1542°W119390KangchenjungaMangan district, Sikkim, India / Taplejung, Koshi Province, Nepal
Kangbachen[18] 7,90325,92827.7117°N 88.1083°W103337Kangchenjunga WestTaplejung, Koshi Province, Nepal

The main ridge of the massif runs from north-northeast to south-southwest and forms a watershed to several rivers.[13] Together with ridges running roughly from east to west they form a giant cross.[6] These ridges contain a host of peaks between . The northern section includes Yalung Kang, Kangchenjunga Central and South, Kangbachen, Kirat Chuli and Gimmigela Chuli, and runs up to the Jongsang La. The eastern ridge in Sikkim includes Siniolchu. The southern section runs along the Nepal–Sikkim border and includes Kabru I to III.[7] This ridge extends southwards to the Singalila Ridge.[19] The western ridge culminates in the Kumbhakarna, also known as Jannu.[7]

Four main glaciers radiate from the peak, pointing roughly to the northeast, southeast, northwest and southwest. The Zemu glacier in the northeast and the Talung glacier in the southeast drain to the Teesta River; the Yalung glacier in the southwest and the Kangchen glacier in the northwest drain to the Arun and Kosi rivers.[20] The glaciers spread over the area above approximately, and the glacialized area covers about in total.[21] There are 120 glaciers in the Kanchenjunga Himal, of which 17 are debris-covered. Between 1958 and 1992, more than half of 57 examined glaciers had retreated, possibly due to rising of air temperature.[22]

Kangchenjunga Main is the highest elevation of the Brahmaputra River basin, which forms part of the southeast Asian monsoon regime and is among the globally largest river basins.[23] Kangchenjunga is one of six peaks above located in the basin of the Kosi River, which is among the largest tributaries of the Ganges.[24] The Kangchenjunga massif forms also part of the Ganges Basin.[25]

Although it is the third highest peak in the world, Kangchenjunga is only ranked 29th by topographic prominence, a measure of a mountain's independent stature. The key col for Kangchenjunga lies at a height of, along the watershed boundary between Arun and Brahmaputra rivers in Tibet.[26] It is, however, the fourth-most-prominent peak in the Himalayas, after Everest, and the western and eastern anchors of the Himalaya, Nanga Parbat and Namcha Barwa, respectively.[27]

Protected areas

The Kangchenjunga landscape is a complex of three distinct ecoregions: the eastern Himalayan broad-leaved and coniferous forests, the Eastern Himalayan alpine shrub and meadows and the Terai-Duar savanna and grasslands.[28] The Kangchenjunga transboundary landscape is shared by Nepal, India, Bhutan and China, and comprises 14 protected areas with a total of :[29]

These protected areas are habitats for many globally significant plant species such as rhododendrons and orchids and many endangered flagship species such as snow leopard (Panthera uncia), Asian black bear (Ursus thibetanus), red panda (Ailurus fulgens), white-bellied musk deer (Moschus leucogaster), blood pheasant (Ithaginis cruentus) and chestnut-breasted partridge (Arborophila mandellii).[29]

Climbing routes

There are four climbing routes to reach the summit of Kangchenjunga, three of which are in Nepal from the southwest, northwest, and northeast, and one from northeastern Sikkim in India. To date, the northeastern route from Sikkim has been successfully used only three times. The Indian government has banned expeditions to Kanchenjunga; therefore, this route has been closed since 2000.[30]

Climbing history

Early reconnaissances and attempts

First ascent

See main article: 1955 British Kangchenjunga expedition. In 1955, Joe Brown and George Band made the first ascent on 25 May, followed by Norman Hardie and Tony Streather on 26 May.[41] The full team also included John Clegg (team doctor), Charles Evans (team leader), John Angelo Jackson, Neil Mather and Tom Mackinnon.[1] The ascent proved that Aleister Crowley's 1905 route (also investigated by the 1954 reconnaissance) was viable. The route starts on the Yalung Glacier to the southwest of the peak, and climbs the Yalung Face, which is 3000m (10,000feet) high. The main feature of this face is the "Great Shelf", a large sloping plateau at around 7500m (24,600feet), covered by a hanging glacier. The route is almost entirely on snow, glacier and one icefall; the summit ridge itself can involve a small amount of travel on rock. The first ascent expedition made six camps above their base camp, two below the Shelf, two on it, and two above it. They started on 18 April, and everyone was back to base camp by 28 May.[42] Other members of this expedition included John Angelo Jackson and Tom Mackinnon.[43]

Other notable ascents

Despite improved climbing gear the fatality rate of climbers attempting to summit Kanchenjunga is high. Since the 1990s, more than 20% of people died while climbing Kanchenjunga's main peak.[63]

Tourism

See also: Tourism in North East India. Because of its remote location in Nepal and the difficulty involved in accessing it from India, the Kangchenjunga region is not much explored by trekkers. It has, therefore, retained much of its pristine beauty. In Sikkim too, trekking into the Kangchenjunga region has just recently been permitted. The Goecha La trek is gaining popularity amongst tourists. It goes to the Goecha La Pass, located right in front of the huge southeast face of Kangchenjunga. Another trek to Green Lake Basin has recently been opened for trekking. This trek goes to the Northeast side of Kangchenjunga along the famous Zemu Glacier. The film Singalila in the Himalaya is a journey around Kangchenjunga.

In myth

The area around Kangchenjunga is said to be home to a mountain deity, called Dzö-nga[64] or "Kangchenjunga Demon", a type of yeti or rakshasa. A British geological expedition in 1925 spotted a bipedal creature which they asked the locals about, who referred to it as the "Kangchenjunga Demon".[65]

For generations, there have been legends recounted by the inhabitants of the areas surrounding Kanchenjunga, both in Sikkim and in Nepal, that there is a valley of immortality hidden on its slopes. These stories are well known to both the original inhabitants of the area, the Lepcha people and Limbu people, and those of the Tibetan Buddhist cultural tradition. In Tibetan, this valley is known as Beyul Demoshong. In 1962, a Tibetan Lama by the name of Tulshuk Lingpa led over 300 followers into the high snow slopes of Kanchenjunga, to ‘open the way’ to Beyul Demoshong. The story of this expedition is recounted in the 2011 book A Step Away from Paradise.[66]

In literature

Further reading

The above Himalayan Journal references were all also reproduced in the "50th Anniversary of the First Ascent of Kangchenjunga" The Himalayan Club, Kolkata Section 2005.

See also

External links

Notes and References

  1. Band, G. . 1955 . Kanchenjunga Climbed . The Geographical Magazine . 28 . 422–438.
  2. Nirash, N. . 1982 . The Lepchas of Sikkim . Bulletin of Tibetology . 18 . 2 . 18–23 .
  3. Denjongpa, A. B. . 2002 . Kangchendzönga: Secular and Buddhist perceptions of the mountain deity of Sikkim among the Lhopos . Bulletin of Tibetology . 38 . 5–37 .
  4. Book: De Schlagintweit, H.. de Schlagintweit, A.. de Schlagintweit, R. . 1863 . Results of a Scientific Mission to India and High Asia, undertaken between the years MDCCCLIV and MDCCCLVIII by order of the court of Directors of the Honourable East India Company. Volume III . Brockhaus, Leipzig and Trübner & Co. . London . IV. Names explained . 207 . https://books.google.com/books?id=jOE-AAAAYAAJ&pg=PA207.
  5. Scheid . C. S. . 2014 . Hidden land and changing landscape: Narratives about Mount Khangchendzonga among the Lepcha and the Lhopo . Journal of the Irish Society for the Academic Study of Religions . 1 . 1 . 66–89.
  6. Book: Freshfield, D. W. . 1903 . Round Kangchenjunga: a narrative of mountain travel and exploration . Edward Arnold . London .
  7. Carter . H. A. . 1985 . Classification of the Himalaya . American Alpine Journal . 27 . 59 . 109–141 .
  8. Book: Bhuju, U. R. . Shakya, P. R. . Basnet, T. B. . Shrestha, S. . 2007 . Nepal Biodiversity Resource Book. Protected Areas, Ramsar Sites, and World Heritage Sites . Kathmandu, Nepal . International Centre for Integrated Mountain Development, Ministry of Environment, Science and Technology, in cooperation with United Nations Environment Programme, Regional Office for Asia and the Pacific . 978-92-9115-033-5 .
  9. Book: Gurung, H. . Shrestha, R. K. . amp . 1994 . Nepal Himalaya Inventory . Ministry of Tourism and Civil Aviation . Kathmandu.
  10. Dhar. O. N.. Nandargi. S. . 2000 . 55 . 10.1002/j.1477-8696.2000.tb04065.x . An appraisal of precipitation distribution around the Everest and Kanchenjunga peaks in the Himalayas . Weather . 7. 223–234 . 2000Wthr...55..223D . 121273656.
  11. Book: Gillman, P. . 1993 . Everest: The Best Writing and Pictures from Seventy Years of Human Endeavour . Little, Brown and Company . Boston . 978-0316904896 . 208.
  12. Book: Searle, M.P. . Colliding Continents: A Geological Exploration of the Himalaya, Karakoram, and Tibet . OUP Oxford . EBL ebooks online . 2013 . 978-0-19-965300-3 . 65.
  13. Smythe, F. S. (1930). The Kangchenjunga adventure. Victor Gollancz Ltd., London
  14. Web site: Jurgalski, E. . de Ferranti, J. . Maizlish, A. . 2000–2005 . High Asia II – Himalaya of Nepal, Bhutan, Sikkim and adjoining region of Tibet . Peaklist.org . 16 May 2019.
  15. Peakbagger.com (1987–2012). Yalung Kang
  16. Peakbagger.com (1987–2012). Kanchenjunga Central
  17. Peakbagger.com (1987–2012). Kanchenjunga South
  18. Peakbagger.com (1987–2012). Kangbachen
  19. Mason, K. (1932). The Recent Assaults on Kangchenjunga: Review. The Geographical Journal 80 (5): 439–445.
  20. Freshfield, D. W. (1902). The Glaciers of Kangchenjunga. The Geographical Journal 19: 453–475.
  21. Asahi, K. (1999). Data on inventoried glaciers and its distribution in eastern part of Nepal Himalaya. Data Report 2, Basic studies for assessing the impacts of the global warming on the Himalayan cryosphere, 1994–1998. Institute for Hydrospheric-Atmospheric Sciences, Nagoya University and Department of Hydrology and Meteorology, HMG/Nepal.
  22. Ashahi, K., Watanabe, T. (2000). Past and recent glacier fluctuations in Kanchenjunga Himal, Nepal. Journal of Nepal Geological Society (22): 481–490.
  23. Bajracharya, S. R., Palash, W., Shrestha, M. S., Khadgi, V. R., Duo, C., Das, P. J., & Dorji, C. (2015). Systematic Evaluation of Satellite-Based Rainfall Products over the Brahmaputra Basin for Hydrological Applications. Advances in Meteorology: 398687.
  24. Shijin, W., & Tao, Z. (2014). Spatial change detection of glacial lakes in the Koshi River Basin, the Central Himalayas. Environmental Earth Sciences 72(11): 4381–4391.
  25. Web site: Peakbagger.com . 1987–2015 . Kangchenjunga, India/Nepal . 11 May 2014.
  26. Web site: Key Col for Kangchenjunga. Peakbagger.com. 3 April 2016.
  27. Web site: World Top 100 by Prominence. Peakbagger.com. 3 April 2016.
  28. Book: Wikramanayake, E. D.. 2001 . Ecoregion-based Conservation in the Eastern Himalaya: Identifying Important Areas for Biodiversity Conservation . World Wildlife Fund and International Centre for Integrated Mountain Development . Kathmandu . 978-9993394006.
  29. Book: Chettri, N. . amp . Bajracharya, B. . Thapa, R. . 2008 . Feasibility Assessment for Developing Conservation Corridors in the Kangchenjunga Landscape . 21–30 . Biodiversity Conservation in the Kangchenjunga Landscape . Chettri, N. . Shakya, B. . Sharma, E. . International Centre for Integrated Mountain Development . Kathmandu . http://lib.icimod.org/record/7890/files/attachment_520.pdf.
  30. News: Climbers banned from sacred peak. Harding. Luke. 2000 . The Guardian. 16 October 2017. en-GB. 0261-3077.
  31. Book: Hooker, J. D. . 1854 . Himalayan journals; or, Notes of a naturalist in Bengal, the Sikkim and Nepal Himalayas, the Khasia Mountains, &c. . John Murray . London.
  32. Book: Schlagintweit, H. v. . 1871 . https://archive.org/stream/reiseninindienu02sakgoog#page/n255/mode/2up . Die Singhalila Kette zwischen Sikkim und Nepal . Reisen in Indien und Hochasien. Eine Darstellung der Landschaft, der Kultur und Sitten der Bewohner, in Verbindung mit klimatischen und geologischen Verhältnissen. Zweiter Band . Hermann Costenoble . Jena.
  33. Book: Das, S. C. . 1902 . A Journey to Lhasa and central Tibet . New York, London . E. P. Dutton & Company, John Murray .
  34. Blaser, W. . amp . Hughes, G. . 2009 . Kabru 1883. A Reassessment . The Alpine Journal . 114 . 219–228 . 27 February 2013 . 12 May 2012 . https://web.archive.org/web/20120512104810/http://www.himalaya-info.org/Kabru%20Alpine%20Journal%202010.pdf . dead .
  35. Ward, M. . 2001 . Early Exploration of Kangchenjunga and South Tibet by the pundits Rinzin Namgyal, Sarat Chandra Das and Lama Ugyen Gyatso . The Alpine Journal . 106 . 191–196 .
  36. Book: Isserman, M. . amp . Weaver, S. . 2008 . Fallen Giants: a history of Himalayan mountaineering from the age of empire to the age of extremes . Devon . Duke & Company . 61–63 . 978-0-300-11501-7.
  37. Book: Crowley, A. . Chapter 52 . The Confessions of Aleister Crowley An Autohagiography . 1979 . London; Boston . Routledge & Kegan Paul . 0-7100-0175-4.
  38. Bauer, P. (1955). Kangchenjunga Challenge. William Kimber, London.
  39. Braham, T. H. . 1955–1956 . Kangchenjunga Reconnaissance, 1954 . The Himalayan Journal . 19 . dead . 6 January 2014 . https://web.archive.org/web/20140106041509/http://www.himalayanclub.org/journal/kangchenjunga-reconnaissance-1954/.
  40. Braham, T. H. . 1996 . Kangchenjunga: The 1954 Reconnaissance . The Alpine Journal . 101 . 33–35 . .
  41. Book: Kapadia, H. . 2001 . Across Peaks and Passes in Darjeeling and Sikkim . Indus Publishing Company . New Delhi . 978-8173871269.
  42. Evans, C. . Band, G. . Kangchenjunga Climbed . The Geographical Journal . 1956 . 122 . 1 . 1–12 . 10.2307/1791469 . 1791469 . 1956GeogJ.122....1E.
  43. News: Perrin, J. . 2005 . Obituary: John Jackson. Key climber and trainer of British mountaineers . The Guardian . 31 October 2013.
  44. Higuchi, H. . Alpine Journal . The First Ascent of Yalung Kang . 1975 . 17–27 . 2020-07-30.
  45. American Alpine Journal . Kangchenjunga from the East . Kumar, N. . 1978 . 2020-07-30.
  46. Wojciech Wróż: Święta góra Sikkimu. Warszawa: "Sport i Turystyka", 1982. .
  47. Scott . D. K. . Kangchenjunga from the North . American Alpine Journal . 22 . 53 . 437–444 . 1980 .
  48. Asia, Nepal, Kangchenjunga Tragedy . American Alpine Journal . 1985 . 27 . 59 . 250–251 .
  49. Book: Bremer-Kamp, C. . Living on the Edge: The Winter Ascent of Kanchenjunga . 1987. 9780715390030 . David & Charles .
  50. Kangchenjunga climbed in winter . Himalayan Journal. 1987. A. . Machnik . 43 . 7–9 .
  51. Book: Kukuczka, J. . My Vertical World: Climbing the 8000-Metre Peaks . 1992 . 0340534850 . Hodder & Stoughton .
  52. Braham . T. . Forty Years after the First Ascent of Kangchenjunga . The Alpine Journal . 57–58 . 1996 .
  53. Web site: Ginette Harrison . Everest History.
  54. Web site: List of Kangchenjunga ascents . 8000ers.com . 2008 . 14 June 2011.
  55. Mysza (2009). Kinga Baranowska zdobyła Kangchenjungę . wspinanie.pl, 18 May 2009.
  56. News: Tunç Fındık zirvede . CNN Turk . 2011.
  57. News: Member spotlight: Freedom lies in the mountains for Turkish climber Tunc Findik . UIAA . International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation . 2014 . dead . https://web.archive.org/web/20141008212759/http://www.theuiaa.org/news-163-Member-spotlight-Freedom-lies-in-the-mountains-for-Turkish-climber-Tunc-Findik.html . 8 October 2014.
  58. Web site: 2011 . Expeditions . Mountaineers' Association . 23 October 2017.
  59. News: 5 climbers feared dead on world's 3rd highest peak . 2013 . NBC News . 14 January 2014.
  60. News: 2014 . Novinite . Bulgarian Mountaineer Boyan Petrov Climbs Kangchenjunga Summit . 23 October 2017.
  61. News: Ace mountaineers from across the country hail Gayen's effort . 2014 . 1 August 2019.
  62. News: 2022 . Indian climber dies in Nepal-hiking official . Reuters.
  63. Web site: Hansen, L. . 2012 . 5 Mountains Deadlier Than Everest . dead . https://web.archive.org/web/20150923175946/http://mentalfloss.com/article/30757/5-mountains-deadlier-everest . 23 September 2015.
  64. Anna Belikci Denjongpa, Kangchendzönga: Secular and Buddhist perceptions of the mountain deity of Sikkim among the Lhopos
  65. Web site: 2010 . The Abominable Snowman: Bear, Cat or Creature? . myfoxdfw.com . https://web.archive.org/web/20100806210517/http://www.myfoxdfw.com/dpps/news/weird/the-yeti-abominable-snowman-bear-cat-or-creature-monster-dpgoha-20100803-fc_8978008 . 6 August 2010.
  66. Book: Shor, Thomas. A Step Away from Paradise. City Lion Press. 2017. 9780999291894. USA.