Moschino Explained

Moschino S.p.A.
Logo Upright:0.8
Logo Alt:Moschino logo
Image Upright:0.8
Image Alt:Moschino storefront in London
Type:Subsidiary
Foundation: in Milan, Italy
Locations:150+ boutiques
Founder:Franco Moschino
Area Served:Worldwide
Industry:Fashion
Revenue: €215.4 million (2020)[1]
Parent:Aeffe S.p.A.
Homepage:moschino.com

Moschino (pronounced as /it/) is an Italian luxury fashion house founded in 1983 by Franco Moschino in Milan known for over-the-top, campy designs.[2] The company specializes in ready-to-wear, handbags, and fashion accessories.[3] Moschino's creative director is Adrian Appiolaza.[4] [5]

History

Founding and 1990s

Franco Moschino was born on 27 February 1950 and raised in Abbiategrasso, Italy. Moschino studied at Accademia di Belle in Milan from 1968 to 1971, at the dismay of his father, who hoped Franco would continue his family's work in the iron industry. While a student, Franco freelanced designs and illustrations for magazines and fashion houses. Upon graduation, Franco worked as a design sketcher for Versace from 1971 to 1977 and designed for Italian fashion house Cadette until 1982. The following year, Franco created "Moschino Couture!",[6] owned by Moonshadow, its Milan-based holding company.[7] Franco gained a reputation for implementing innovative, colorful, and witty designs into his apparel, such incorporating a Roy Lichtenstein pop art piece in a suit[8] and designing a t-shirt featuring a TV tuned to “Channel No. 5" (sparking a lawsuit by Chanel due to the reference to its Chanel No. 5 perfume).

By the late 1980s, Moschino's popularity in Europe had begun to replicate in the United States, with US sales accounting for 15 to 20 percent of business. By the 1990s, Franco became known for his social awareness campaigns and his criticism of the fashion industry.[9] In 1994, Franco expressed desire to develop an ecological line “Nature Friendly Garment”, however Franco died later that year from HIV/AIDS-related causes.[10] In recent times, Moschino has made an effort to combat the HIV/AIDS epidemic through a partnership with Product Red and Nickelodeon, creating a Moschino x SpongeBob collection, bringing awareness to HIV/AIDS and fundraising by donating the collection's proceeds to Project Red.[11]

Rossella Jardini, 1994–2013

After Franco's death in 1994, his friend Rossella Jardini became the brand's creative director. Responsible for the brand's image and style, Jardini's whimsical designs fit in nicely with the brand's established eccentricity. While Jardini was creative director, Moschino created outfits and accessories for artists Madonna[12] and Lady Gaga[13] for their world tours and created the opening ceremony outfits for the 2006 Winter Olympics.[14] In 2009, Moschino opened its hotel concept, Maison Moschino.[15]

In 1999, Moschino joined Aeffe S.p.A., an Italian group.[16]

With the F/W 2008–2009 pre-collection, Moschino Jeans changed its name to Love Moschino.[17]

Jeremy Scott, 2013–2023

In October 2013, Jeremy Scott became Moschino's creative director, debuting his first collection in Fall 2014.[18] Starting in 2014 under Scott's direction, Moschino Cheap and Chic was consolidated into a new women's line—"Boutique Moschino"—established to target a wider array of costumers, with a price-point about 40 percent lower than Moschino's mainline.[19] In 2014, Scott designed a smiley face themed outfit for Katy Perry's world tour[20] and in 2015 designed a black one-piece outfit with Swarovski crystals for Madonna's world tour.

In April 2018, Moschino announced a collaboration with H&M.[21] The following year, Moschino collaborated with EA Games for a Sims 4 collection. The collection featured clothing with pixelated illusions inspired by the computer game.[22]

With the 2019 Met Gala's theme Camp: Notes on Fashion, Katy Perry wore a gown that looked like a chandelier, created by Moschino, and Kacey Musgraves arrived appearing like a life-size Barbie, also by Moschino.[23]

In 2021, Aeffe S.p.A. gained full control of Moschino, by acquiring the remaining 30 percent stake it did not originally own, at the price of 66.6 million euros ($78.51 million).[24] [25]

In March 2023, Scott announced his exit from the creative director position.[26]

Davide Renne, 2023

In October 2023, Aeffe announced Davide Renne as the new creative director of Moschino, overseeing the women's and men's lines and accessories. He joined Moschino after a 20-year career at Gucci.[27] [28] He assumed the role on 1 November, but died from a suspected heart attack in Milan nine days later, at the age of 46.[27]

Adrian Appiolaza, 2024–present

In January 2024, Adrian Appiolaza was appointed as the new creative director of Moschino.[29] Prior to his appointment, Appiolaza worked at Loewe for 10 years as womenswear design director under Jonathan Anderson.[29] Appiolaza is a graduate of Central Saint Martins and has also worked at Chloé, Alexander McQueen, and Miu Miu.[30]

Advertising

For its advertising campaigns, Moschino has been working with renowned photographers including Steven Klein (1990), Steven Meisel (1999, 2014),[31] Patrick Demarchelier (2001–2002),[32] Mario Testino (2003) and Peter Lindbergh (2007).[33]

Controversy

In a 2015 lawsuit, New York-based graffiti artist Rime claimed the Moschino dress worn by Katy Perry at the 2015 Met Gala copied his work.[34] The case was settled in 2016.[35]

In 2016, Nordstrom responded to pressure from consumers and pulled Moschino's pill-themed merchandise from its shelves, amid allegations it trivialized the opioid epidemic.[36] [37]

Philanthropy

For its fashion show in Milan in September 2023, Moschino showed its solidarity with the Elton John AIDS Foundation, founded by Elton John, which works to help and support people affected by HIV.[38]

Notes and References

  1. Luisa Zargani (28 July 2021), Aeffe Takes Full Control of Moschino Women's Wear Daily.
  2. Web site: McCall . Tyler . 24 February 2022 . Jeremy Scott Brings the House Down at Moschino . 25 August 2022 . Fashionista . en.
  3. Web site: Kaybeewrites . 30 May 2022 . Fashion History: The history of Moschino . 18 August 2022 . GLAMSQUAD MAGAZINE . en-US.
  4. Web site: Moschino's new creative director is Adrian Appiolaza . The Spin Off . January 30, 2024.
  5. News: Milan fashion house Moschino taps Adrian Appiolaza as its new creative director . The Independent . January 30, 2024.
  6. Web site: 4 September 2018 . How to Create an Iconic brand – Volume 11: Moschino . 19 August 2022 . The Blonde Salad.
  7. Glynis Costin and Sara Gay Forden (20 September 1994), Franco Moschino Dies in Italy Women's Wear Daily.
  8. Web site: Talon . Kettj . 2 May 2019 . Roy Lichtenstein: when Pop Art influences fashion . 19 August 2022 . Nss Magazine . en.
  9. Web site: 20 September 1994 . Obituary: Franco Moschino . 19 August 2022 . The Independent . en.
  10. http://www.harpersbazaar.com/fashion/fashion-articles/fashionable-life-rossella-jardini-0107 "A fashionable life: Rosella Jardini". Harper's Bazaar
  11. Web site: Lockwood . Lisa . 7 June 2017 . Nickelodeon, Moschino and (RED) Team Up for SpongeBob . 19 August 2022 . WWD . en-US.
  12. News: Bernstein . Jacob . 5 August 2008 . Madonna's Costumes for Her Sticky and Sweet Tour . Women's Wear Daily . 4 October 2017.
  13. Web site: Calvert . John . 11 September 2012 . This Megalith Reality: Lady Gaga Live . 18 August 2022 . The Quietus . en-us.
  14. "Moschino Gets Gold Medal:Brand designs costumes for winter Olympics," Thursday, 19 January 2006. Fashion Week Daily Web site: Fashion Week Daily - Dispatch - Moschino Gets Gold Medal . dead . https://web.archive.org/web/20090506010214/http://www.fashionweekdaily.com/news/fullstory.sps?iNewsid=296594 . 6 May 2009 . 17 October 2007.
  15. "Head to Milan for Maison Moschino", 31 October 2008. Harper's Bazaar. Web site: | Harper's Bazaar . dead . https://web.archive.org/web/20150505072712/http://www.harpersbazaar.co.uk/travel/Head-to-Milan-for-Maison-Moschino/buzz . 5 May 2015 . 24 July 2009.
  16. [Suzy Menkes]
  17. Web site: 31 January 2008. LOVE MOSCHINO. 13 October 2021. British Vogue. en-GB.
  18. Web site: Zargani, Luisa . 29 October 2013 . Moschino Names Jeremy Scott Creative Director . 29 October 2013 . Women's Wear Daily.
  19. Web site: 14 November 2017 . Moschino . 18 August 2022 . MAM-E srls . it-IT.
  20. Web site: Muller . Marissa . 30 April 2014 . Katy Perry Adds Moschino To Prismatic World Tour Wardrobe . https://web.archive.org/web/20220827213932/https://www.mtv.com/news/wz523l/katy-perry-prismatic-tour-wardrobe-moschino . dead . 27 August 2022 . 27 August 2022 . MTV . en.
  21. News: Lance . Jennifer . Moschino Is H&M's Newest Designer Collaboration . Glamour . 18 July 2018.
  22. Web site: Masters . Johannah . 12 April 2019 . Moschino taps 'The Sims' for Coachella's big fashion moment . 12 April 2019 . New York Post.
  23. Web site: 13 September 2021 . Photos from Moschino's Most Memorable Met Gala Looks . 25 August 2022 . E! Online.
  24. Silvia Recchimuzzi (28 July 2021), Italy's Aeffe raises stake in Moschino to 100% Reuters.
  25. Luisa Zargani (28 July 2021), Aeffe Takes Full Control of Moschino Women's Wear Daily.
  26. Web site: Zargani . Luisa . 20 March 2023 . Jeremy Scott Is Exiting Moschino . 20 March 2023 . WWD . en-US.
  27. News: Davide Renne, Moschino Creative Director, Dead at 46. Paton. Elizabeth. The New York Times. 10 November 2023. 10 November 2023. limited.
  28. Elisa Anzolin (16 October 2023), Moschino names former Gucci designer Renne creative director Reuters.
  29. Web site: 2024-01-30 . Adrian Appiolaza Is Named the New Creative Director of Moschino . 2024-01-30 . Vogue . en-US.
  30. Web site: Zargani . Louisa . Moschino’s New Creative Director Is Former Loewe Designer Adrian Appiolaza . Womenswear Daily . Fairchild Media . 30 January 2024.
  31. Cynthia Martens (4 June 2014), Linda Evangelista and Steven Meisel Sign On for Moschino Campaign Women's Wear Daily
  32. Luisa Zargani (20 July 2001), Fall Ads, Italian Style Women's Wear Daily
  33. Amy Wicks (2 November 2007), Photographers’ Ad Game Women's Wear Daily.
  34. David Shortell (10 August 2015), Fashion house Moschino accused of copying graffiti artist's work CNN.
  35. Rosemary Feitelberg (29 June 2016), Street Artist Rime Settles Lawsuit With Jeremy Scott but Not Moschino Women's Wear Daily.
  36. Phil Wahba (7 October 2016), Nordstrom Pulls Moschino Drug-Themed Clothing Line After Protests Fortune.
  37. Kyle Munzenrieder (10 October 16), Nordstrom Pulls Moschino’s Pill-Themed Collection Amidst Controversy W.
  38. Web site: Un t-shirt Moschino pour soutenir la Fondation Elton John Aids. . 21 September 2023 . Journal du Luxe.