Max Mara Explained

MaxMara
Type:Private
Foundation:1951
Founder:Achille Maramotti
Location Country:Italy
Locations:2,334 (March 2019)
Area Served:105 countries
Key People:Luigi Maramotti (chairman)
Laura Lusuardi (design director)
Products:Ready-to-wear clothing
Revenue:€1.2bn
Owner:Luigi, Ignazio and Ludovica Maramotti

Max Mara (Italian [maks 'ma:ra]) is an Italian fashion business. It markets up-market ready-to-wear clothing. It was established in 1951 in Reggio Emilia by Achille Maramotti (7 January 1927 – 12 January 2005). In March 2008, the company had 2,254 stores in 90 countries. It sponsors the Max Mara Art Prize for Women.

History

Founded in 1951 by Achille Maramotti in Reggio Emilia, the fashion house was initially named Confezioni Maramotti with the aim of introducing American industrial processes into European tailoring culture, thus creating Italian pret-a-porter.[1]

In 1957, the company expanded and moved to its new headquarters designed by industrial architect Eugenio Salvarani, changing its name to Max Mara. "Max" is a superlative, while "Mara" is a diminutive form of the founder's surname.

Achille Maramotti chose the men's coat as an iconic garment for women's wardrobes, and in the 1960s, Max Mara established its creative studio to research the expression and personalization of outerwear.[2]

In the 1970s and 1980s, Max Mara began collaborating with international designers such as Anne-Marie Beretta,[3] Emmanuelle Khanh, Karl Lagerfeld, Jean-Charles de Castelbajac, Narciso Rodriguez, Proenza Schouler, as well as fashion photographers including Richard Avedon, Arthur Elgort, Steven Meisel, Sarah Moon, Max Vadukul, Mario Sorrenti, David Sims, and Craig McDean.

During the same period, Max Mara also introduced the Manuela coat, made of pure camel hair with a notched collar, side pockets, wrap-around closure, and a belt. It has since become a distinctive outerwear piece for the fashion house.

In 1981, French designer Anne-Marie Beretta created the model 101801 coat, a camel-coloured wool and cashmere overcoat that became an iconic symbol of Max Mara. Inspired by the men's Ulster coat, the most noticeable feature of this model is the "puntino," a stitching detail derived from men's tailored suits.[4]

In 1989, the MM Magazine was launched, a biannual fashion and lifestyle publication distributed in the brand's stores and selected multi-brand retailers.

In 2003, Max Mara relocated to its new campus in Reggio Emilia on Via Giulia Maramotti, designed by John McAslan & Partners.[5]

In 2013, the brand presented the Teddy Bear coat on the Autumn/Winter runway, made of alpaca wool and silk with a faux fur effect, inspiring a series of imitations.[6]

In 2015, Max Mara collaborated with Renzo Piano Building Workshop to create the Whitney Bag for the opening of the new Whitney Museum of American Art in New York's Meatpacking District.[7]

Brands

Max Mara has spawned 35 labels, although Max Mara womenswear, usually stylized as MaxMara, remains the core of the company. Other brands include Sportmax, Sportmax Code, Weekend Max Mara, Marella, Pennyblack, iBlues, MAX&Co. (the trendy, youth division), and Marina Rinaldi. This last, founded in 1980 and named after Achille Maramotti's great grandmother, is one of the best-known: in her obituary of Maramotti for The Independent.[8] [9]

In 2013, Jennifer Garner became the first celebrity spokesperson for Max Mara.[10] [11] Starting in September 2013, the campaign appeared in Vogue, Harper's Bazaar, Elle, W, InStyle, The New York Times, and the International Herald Tribune.[11]

Other activities

Max Mara had a licensing agreement with Italian eyewear manufacturer Safilo from 1997 to 2020.[12] From 2019 to 2023, Sportmax had a five-year licensing agreement with Marcolin for the development, production and global distribution of the brand’s eyewear collections.[13]

For the development, production and distribution of its fragrances, Max Mara has had licensing agreements with Procter & Gamble’s Cosmopolitan Cosmetics division (–2004), Selective Beauty (2006–2024) and Shiseido (since 2024).[14]

Advertising campaigns

For its advertising campaigns, the Max Mara brands have been working with photographers like Arthur Elgort, Paolo Roversi, Peter Lindbergh, Max Vadukul (1993, 1995–1996), Steven Meisel (1994, 1997, 1999–2001, 2016),[15] Elaine Constantine (1995), Miles Aldridge (1996),[16] Richard Avedon (1998), Craig McDean (2006),[17] David Sims, Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin[18] and Mario Sorrenti (2013–2014).[19] Past campaigns have featured actresses Jennifer Garner (2013)[20] and Amy Adams (2014).[21]

Philanthropy

Women In Film Max Mara Face of the Future Award

Introduced at the Women In Film's 2006 Crystal + Lucy Awards, this award is given to an actress who is experiencing a particularly interesting period in the film and television industry. The award recognizes their social commitment, contributions to the community at large, and their ability to stand out in terms of grace, elegance, and style. Past recipients of this award include:

Max Mara Art Prize for Women

This project was launched in 2005 in collaboration with the Whitechapel Gallery and is dedicated to women living in the United Kingdom. The jury consists of four members: a gallerist, a journalist and/or critic, an artist, and a collector, and it is renewed for each edition.[32]

The prize, awarded every two years, provides an opportunity to spend six months in Italy collaborating with local artists and conducting research. The resulting artwork is then exhibited at the Whitechapel Gallery in London and later at the Collezione Maramotti in Reggio Emilia, Italy.[33]

Recognition

In 2012, Max Mara received the "Brand Heritage Award" from the global association Fashion Group International during the FGI's 29th Annual Night of Stars in New York.[34]

Criticism

In 1995, Max Mara was placed under investigation by Florentine magistrate Antonio Grassi for alleged commercial fraud; at issue were Mara labels that allegedly overstated the percentages of plush fibers such as cashmere, angora and mohair mixed with the wool of certain garments.[35]

Research of the social democratic party in the European Parliament, the Sheffield Hallam University and further groups accused Max Mara in 2023 of using forced labour camps exploiting muslim Uyghurs in china provided by the Anhui Huamao Group Co., Ltd. for production.[36]

In 2024, the Humane Society of the United States campaigned for Max Mara to stop trafficking in the fur trade of foxes, mink, and raccoon dogs, stating "Max Mara has fallen behind their competitors—including Gucci, Versace, Armani, Prada and Valentino—that have already gone fur-free."[37]

Family

Achille Maramotti was born on 7 January 1927, in Reggio Emilia in Italy. Maramotti was educated in Rome and received a law degree from the University of Parma. According to the Forbes Rich List of 2005, Maramotti was one of the world's richest men with a fortune of US$2.1 billion.

He died in Albinea, Italy on 12 January 2005. Maramotti's two sons and daughter, Luigi, Ignazio and Ludovica, followed him into the business; Luigi Maramotti is chairman of the company.[38] After his death, according to Maramotti's will, a large and important collection of contemporary art from Europe and America was made open to the public.[39]

Notes and References

  1. News: Horyn . Cathy . 2005-01-14 . Achille Maramotti, Italian Fashion Leader, Dies at 78 . en-US . The New York Times . 2023-06-09 . 0362-4331.
  2. Web site: 2017-11-29 . Max Mara celebra 60 anni di moda con la mostra Coats! a Seoul . 2023-06-09 . Vanity Fair Italia . it-IT.
  3. News: 'Soy' dress, Anne-Marie Beretta. Palais Galliera Musée de la mode de la Ville de Paris. 2018-08-24. en.
  4. Web site: Amico . Alexandra . 2021-12-09 . Max Mara coat, the most famous in the world . 2023-06-09 . en-US.
  5. Web site: Max Mara Headquarters, John McAslan + Partners . The Plan.
  6. News: Trebay . Guy . 2019-03-06 . That Cuddly Teddy Bear Coat Is a Monster . en-US . The New York Times . 2023-06-09 . 0362-4331.
  7. Web site: Weiss . Zachary . 2015-04-23 . Max Mara Unveils the Whitney Bag . 2023-06-09 . Observer . en-US.
  8. http://www.marinarinaldi.com/en/About-Us-History-and-Philosophy History & Philosophy’
  9. Annalisa Barbieri, ‘Achille Maramotti’, The Independent, 24 January 2005.
  10. News: Mara Executives Still Think She's That Chick from The Hunger Game. July 17, 2013 . The Express.
  11. Web site: Jennifer Garner is the new face of Max Mara . USA Today . 16 July 2013 . 17 July 2013 . Puente, Maria.
  12. Martino Carrera (19 June 2020), Max Mara, Safilo Terminate Eyewear License Women's Wear Daily.
  13. Martino Carrera (19 February 2019), Sportmax, Marcolin Ink Five-Year Eyewear License Women's Wear Daily.
  14. Jennifer Weil and Luisa Zargani (4 July 2024), Shiseido, Max Mara to Ink Fragrance License Women's Wear Daily.
  15. Luisa Zargani (20 June 2016), Gigi Hadid Fronts Max Mara Accessories Ads for Fall Women's Wear Daily.
  16. Lisa Lockwood (28 June 1996), Fall Ads: Taking it on the Road Women's Wear Daily.
  17. Alessandra Ilari (8 December 2006), Max Mara Goes Modern With New Ad Campaign Women's Wear Daily.
  18. Alessandra Turra (5 October 2011), Max Mara: The Quiet Approach Women's Wear Daily.
  19. Luisa Zargani (15 July 2013), Max Mara Puts Focus on Accessories Women's Wear Daily.
  20. Luisa Zargani (15 July 2013), Max Mara Puts Focus on Accessories Women's Wear Daily.
  21. Luisa Zargani (15 July 2014), Max Mara Calls On Amy Adams Women's Wear Daily.
  22. Marcy Medina (17 June 2011), Max Mara, Vanity Fair Fete Katie Holmes Women's Wear Daily.
  23. Emily Holt (26 February 2012), Italian-Style: MaxMara Hosts a Fete in Honor of Chloë Moretz Vogue.
  24. Merle Ginsberg (13 June 2013), MaxMara Hosts Annual Party Before Women in Film Awards The Hollywood Reporter.
  25. Web site: Johns . Nikara . 2014-06-10 . Rose Byrne Is Max Mara's Face of the Future . 2023-06-09 . Variety . en-US.
  26. Web site: 2015-06-16 . Two Maras Are Better Than One . 2023-06-09 . W Magazine . en.
  27. Web site: 2016-06-15 . Max Mara honours Natalie Dormer with Women In Film 'Face of the Future' Award . 2023-06-09 . The Telegraph . en.
  28. Web site: 2017-02-23 . Zoey Deutch Is the Face of the Future at Max Mara's 2017 Women in Film Celebration . 2023-06-09 . Vogue . en-US.
  29. Luisa Zargani (21 February 2019), Elizabeth Debicki to Receive the Women in Film Max Mara Face of the Future Award Women's Wear Daily.
  30. Booth Moore (23 September 2021), Zazie Beetz Is Max Mara’s Face of the Future Honoree for 2021 Women's Wear Daily.
  31. Luisa Zargani (21 September 2023), Yara Shahidi to Receive WIF Max Mara Face of the Future Award Women's Wear Daily.
  32. News: Jonze . Tim . 2023-03-28 . Dominique White wins Max Mara art prize for women . en-GB . The Guardian . 2023-06-09 . 0261-3077.
  33. Web site: Helen Cammock Wins Whitechapel's Max Mara Art Prize for Women . 2023-06-09 . Artlyst . en-GB.
  34. Web site: Redazione . 2012-11-01 . Max Mara premiata con il "Brand Heritage Award" . 2023-06-09 . Fashion Times . it-IT.
  35. Alessandra Ilari (25 May 1995), Max Mara Probed Women's Wear Daily.
  36. Book: Tailoring Responsibility: Tracing Apparel Supply Chains from the Uyghur Region to Europe . 2023 . 17 . En.
  37. Web site: 2024-02-09 . Tell Max Mara to go fur-free!. The Humane Society . en.
  38. Web site: Max Mara Steadfast in Growth Plan . WWD . 5 November 2013 . 6 November 2013 . Kaiser, Amanda.
  39. http://www.collezionemaramotti.org Collezionemaramotti.org