Matty Hong Explained

Birth Date:1991 9, df = yes [1]
Birth Place:Boulder, Colorado, United States
Occupation:Rock climber, film director, photographer
Knownfor:Becoming the fourth American climber to send a route
Education:University of Colorado Boulder

Matthew Jacob Hong (born September 4, 1991) is an American rock climber, filmmaker and photographer. In 2018, he became the fourth American to climb a route graded at . As a filmmaker, he directed the 2017 film Break on Through, which documented Margo Hayes completing the first-ever female ascent of a graded sport climbing route, and is featured on the Reel Rock Film Tour.[2]

Early life and education

Hong was born in Boulder, Colorado in 1991. He began climbing at an early age, brought to climbing spots in Rifle Canyon as a baby by his father Steve Hong and mother Karin Budding, who were both pioneering rock climbers.[3] He joined a climbing team in middle school and began climbing more seriously at age 15, when he climbed his first and routes in Rifle.[4]

After earning a Bachelor of Fine Arts in Film Production at the University of Colorado Boulder,[5] Hong climbed his first route, Papichulo in Oliana, Spain, in March 2016.[4]

Climbing career

Sport climbing

In 2011, Hong recorded the first ascent of Bad Girls Club in Rifle[6] and in 2015, he bolted and completed his first route, La Cucaracha in Wicked Cave, also in Rifle.[7]

In May 2018, he climbed the Fight or Flight in Oliana, Spain, becoming the fourth American to climb the grade[8] after Chris Sharma, Ethan Pringle and Daniel Woods.[9]

In October 2021, Hong completed the second-ever ascent of Flex Luthor, first sent by Tommy Caldwell in 2003. Hong suggested the grade be revised to from after multiple holds broke making the climb harder.[10] [11] In November 2022, Jonathan Siegrist made the third repeat of Flex Luthor and downgraded it back to .[12]

In May 2023, Hong made the 20th ascent of Sharma's 2001 route, Realization/Biographie, in Ceuse.

Competition climbing

Hong competed at IFSC Climbing World Youth Championships in 2009 and 2010 in the Male Youth Junior (age 17–19) category.[13] He has also competed in the senior climbing circuit, making the final at the 2011 IFSC Lead World Cup event in Boulder, finishing sixth.[14]

Notable ascents

[15]

Redpoint

First ascent

Onsight

Bouldering

Competition climbing

Filmography

External links

Notes and References

  1. Web site: Matty Hong . Scarpa . October 14, 2021.
  2. News: Davis . Shannon . Behind the Lens of Reel Rock, Climbing's Best Film Tour . October 14, 2021 . . November 20, 2017.
  3. News: Strong Climber Matty Hong Grew Up in a Climbing Family . October 15, 2021 . Gripped . April 29, 2018.
  4. News: Chrobak . Ura . Generation 5.16: Matty Hong . October 15, 2021 . . April 28, 2018.
  5. Web site: Matty Hong . Black Diamond Equipment . October 15, 2021.
  6. News: Carpenter . Hayden . Margo Hayes, 18, Breaks the "Boys Club" of Bad Girls Club (5.14d) . October 14, 2021 . Rock & Ice . August 15, 2016.
  7. News: Purtell . Joe . Snapshot: Matty Hong – Raised on Rifle . October 15, 2021 . Rock & Ice . December 7, 2017.
  8. News: Anderson . Sam . Matty Hong Claims First Repeat of 'Flex Luthor,' 5.15b, 18 Years After First Ascent . October 14, 2021 . explorersweb.com . October 13, 2021.
  9. News: Matty Hong Becomes Fourth American to Climb 5.15b . October 15, 2021 . Rock & Ice . May 3, 2018.
  10. News: Potter . Steven . Matty Hong Sends Tommy Caldwell's Flex Luther—Upgrades to 5.15b. . October 19, 2021 . Climbing . October 18, 2021.
  11. News: Breaking News: Matty Hong repeats Flex Luthor, proposes 5.15b . October 15, 2021 . Gripped . October 13, 2021.
  12. Web site: Climbing . Jonathan Siegrist Repeats 'Flex Luthor', Skeptical of 5.15b Upgrade.. Stephen . Potter . November 9, 2022 . November 21, 2022 .
  13. Web site: Matty Hong — IFSC . . October 15, 2021.
  14. News: Fox . Amanda . Austrians Rule American Roost: Lead World Cup . October 15, 2021 . Climbing . October 10, 2011.
  15. Web site: Matty Hong . UKC . October 19, 2021.
  16. Web site: . Hong Does 'Biographie,' Cobra Crack Sees a Repeat, and 70th Anniversary of Everest FA . 30 May 2023 . 20 July 2023 . Delaney . Miller.
  17. News: The Extraordinary Effort of Margo Hayes. Salabert. Shawnte. 2020-03-12. Outside Online. en. 2021-10-19.

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