Masherbrum should not be confused with Gasherbrum.
| Masherbrum | |
| Other Name: | K1 |
| Photo Size: | 260 |
| Elevation M: | 7821 |
| Elevation Ref: | [1] Ranked 22nd |
| Prominence M: | 2457 |
| Listing: | Ultra |
| Location: | Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan |
| Map: | India#Gilgit Baltistan |
| Map Size: | 260 |
| Label Position: | left |
| Range: | Karakoram |
| Coordinates: | 35.64°N 76.3058°W |
| First Ascent: | 1960 by George Bell and Willi Unsoeld |
| Easiest Route: | glacier/snow/ice climb |
Masherbrum (Urdu: {{nq|ما شربرم ; formerly known as K1) is a mountain located in the Ghanche District in the Gilgit Baltistan region of Pakistan. With an elevation of 7,821 metres (25,659 feet), it ranks as the 22nd highest mountain globally and the 9th highest in Pakistan. It holds the distinction of being the first mapped peak in the Karakoram mountain range during the Great Trigonometrical Survey, leading to its K-number designation as "K1".[2]
The etymology of the name "Masherbrum" is indeed a subject of some debate and uncertainty, the exact origin of the name may still be open to interpretation and further research. While "brum" is understood to mean "mountain" in Balti, the origin of "masher" remains less clear. One suggestion is that it may come from "Mashedar," which means a muzzle-loader, possibly alluding to the distinctive curvature or shape of its summit as observed from the Baltoro Glacier (and in Persia, "masheh" means both matchlock and trigger, and "dar" is a suffix meaning "having"). Others have noted that "Masha" means lady, and "Masherbrum" is the "Queen of Peaks".[3] Still others have noted that "Masher" means "no sunlight", in reference to the year-round snow cover at the summit.
In India, this mountain peak is known as "Mahasherbaram", which comes from Sanskrit word referring to "The White Tiger".
Masherbrum is the highest peak of the Masherbrum Mountains, a subrange of the Karakoram range. It is a large and striking peak, which is somewhat overshadowed by the nearby 8000m (26,000feet) peaks of the main range of the Karakoram which includes four of the fourteen Eight-thousanders, namely K2, Gasherbrum I, Broad Peak and Gasherbrum II. The Masherbrum Mountains lie to the south of the Baltoro Glacier and the main range of the Karakoram lies to the north of the Baltoro (which is the route most commonly used to access the 8000m peaks of the Karakoram). However, the "normal route" to Masherbrum is along the Hushe Valley which flows south from the summit.[4]
In 1856, Thomas Montgomerie, a British Royal Engineers lieutenant, noticed a tall mountain in the Karakorams and called it K1 (denoting peak 1 of the Karakorams; K2 was the name he gave to the nearby peak behind K1 when viewed from Harmukh). To the local people of the area, it is known as Masherbrum.[5]
Masherbrum was reconnoitered in 1911 by Fanny Bullock Workman and her husband, Dr. William H. Workman.[6] It was first attempted in 1938 from the south, by a group led by James Waller which included Dawa Thondup and J. O. M. Roberts. The attempt failed just short of the summit, when J.B. Harrison and R.A. Hodgkin, severely frostbitten, had to return due to bad weather.[7] [8]
Two more unsuccessful expeditions took place, in 1955 by a team from New Zealand and in 1957 by a UK team which included Don Whillans (on his first visit to the greater ranges).[9] In 1955 the team reached c. 7000m.[10] During the 1957 attempt Bob Downes died on the mountain[11] and the highest point reached by the team was c. 200m below the summit.[12]
Masherbrum was first climbed in 1960 by George Irving Bell and Willi Unsoeld, led by the former, in an American-Pakistani expedition including Nick Clinch.[13] They succeeded in climbing the southeast face route that had stymied the earlier parties.
The Himalayan Index lists three additional ascents and six additional failed attempts on Masherbrum. The ascents include two by additional routes, the NW Face and the NW Ridge/N Face.
In her book, Voyage au Bout du Vide: Une Cordėe Alpine au Masherbrum,[14] the French mountaineer provides a dramatic account of her 1980 attempt, with David Belden, to ascend Masherbrum in alpine style. Their three-month expedition, bedeviled by bad weather, ended in failure when avalanches swept their camp and injured de Colombel, leading to a desperate three-day retreat in whiteout conditions.