| Associated Cuisine: | Brazilian cuisine |
| Region: | Cidade Ocidental and Luziânia in Goiás |
| Place Of Origin: | Brazil |
| Name Italics: | true |
| Name Lang: | pt |
| Course: | Dessert or snack |
(pronounced as /pt/) is a variety of quince cheese that is traditional to the Brazilian state of Goiás. The confection is produced in the municipalities of Cidade Ocidental and Luziânia primarily by artisans of Quilombola descent. In 2022, the confection was recognized as an Immaterial Cultural Heritage of Goiás.
is made artisanally by producers at their farms and homes. There are at least three producer associations in the regions of Cidade Ocidental and Luziânia that produce : the Association of Small Rural Producers of Mesquita and Água Quente (Associação dos Pequenos Produtores Rurais do Mesquita e Água Quente, APROMAQ), the Mesquita Quilombo Renovation Association (Associação Renovadora do Quilombo Mesquita, AREQUIM), and the Association of Small Rural Producers of Xavier (Associação dos Pequenos Produtores Rurais de Xavier). There are around 30 quince fruit producers and 10 producers between both organizations. Each producer has an annual production of 1000kg (2,000lb) on average.[1] [2]
The recipe used to make has been passed down through generations.[3] The quince fruit that is used is a variety of Portuguese quince and is harvested when it ripens in January. The fruit is prepared by removing the hairs outside of the fruit with a cloth and removing its seeds. The fruit is then ground into a paste, run through a sieve to remove large solids, and then stirred with a wooden spoon in a copper pan with sugar syrup or sugar until reaching the desired consistency. The confection is then scooped into small wooden boxes that are also produced by the artisans, wherein they can be preserved for up to a year. The wood from local Samanea saman or Didymopanax macrocarpus trees are used as it doesn't influence the taste of the .
In recent years, the artisanal production of has decreased drastically due to competition with regional companies who industrialize the production of and import quince fruit from outside the region.
The texture of is similar to goiabada, but the flavor is not as sweet.
is typically eaten after meals as a dessert or enjoyed with local cheeses in the manner of Romeu e Julieta. Additionally, it can be eaten with requeijão, avocado, or mixed with milk in smoothies.[4] According to one producer, it can also be eaten immediately after it's been made while it's still warm.
The first quince fruit sapling was brought to Santa Luzia, a region that is today the municipality of Luziânia, in 1770 and was planted by João Pereira Guimarães at his farm, the Engenho da Palma farm. The sapling was either brought by from Minas Gerais or a Portuguese royal from the house of Bragança. The conditions in the region were ideal for the fruit and saplings from that tree were planted at farms such as Ponte Alta, Barreiros, Jataí, Vargem, Mesquita, Santa Bárbara, Riacho Frio, and Saia Velha, where they became extensive orchards. These orchards were used to produce quince cheese, which became the major mover of the local economy. A 1951 book regarding the interior of Brazil in 1817 and 1821 noted that the residents of Santa Luzia primarily worked with making "a famous quince cheese that is known all the way in Rio de Janeiro".
The production of this confectionery was done primarily by enslaved Afro-Brazilians. Many modern day producers are descendants of quilombolas who continued to produce after escaping slavery and forming quilombos in the region of Luziânia. Some of these quilombos, such as Quilombo Mesquita and Quilombo Xavier, still exist and produce using recipes that have been passed down through generations.
The largest quince fruit orchards existed in the 20th century but were gradually replaced by industrialization or field crops such as soy. The introduction of new crops introduced pests and diseases which further decreased the quince orchards and led to different various quince fruit cultivars being planted.
The first (Quince Fruit Festival) was held in Cidade Ocidental in 2002. The event is held annually in November and attracts thousands of visitors. The events serves to recognize the importance of the confection in the region and for producers to sell their product.[5]
In May 2022, State Law No. 21.278, passed under the governorship of Ronaldo Caiado, recognized as a (Immaterial Cultural Heritage) of Goiás.
is mentioned in the Anthem of the Municipality of Luziânia established by Municipal Law No. 1959, of 18 March 1997.
won the first place award in the sweets category at the Centennial Exhibition of 1876 in Philadelphia, United States.[6]