Marceline (fabric) explained

Marceline (sometimes marcelline or merceline) is a type of grain fabric made from taffeta-silk but more pronounced than plain taffeta.Its main usage is in the linings in hatmaking or in women's dresses but there are other applications.^{[1] [2] [3] [4]}

Its threads are crossed "in groups in a two-pass report, are individually introduced in the meshes of the heights so that they are fixed exactly and parallel in their crosses with the weft".^[5]

The 1893 US Supreme Court case Cadwalader v. Wanamaker addressed the question of whether marcelines or "chinas" should be considered trimmings for tariff purposes. It was classified by the US as a sheer fabric.^[6]

In "Journées de Lecture", Marcel Proust recalls having a marceline quilt in his room "...la jonchée de couvre-pieds en marceline...".^{[7] [8]}

Notes and References

1. Book: Matthews, Kolanjikombil. Encyclopaedic Dictionary of Textile Terms: Volume 3. 2018-01-31. CRC Press. 978-0-429-89329-2. en.
2. Book: Picken, Mary Brooks. The Language of Fashion - Dictionary and Digest of Fabric, Sewing and Dress. 2013-04-16. Read Books Ltd. 978-1-4474-9361-7. en.
3. Book: Labour, Coercion, and Economic Growth in Eurasia, 17th-20th Centuries. 2012-09-28. BRILL. 978-90-04-23645-5. en.
4. Book: Tortora, Phyllis G.. The Fairchild Books Dictionary of Textiles. Johnson. Ingrid. 2013-09-17. A&C Black. 978-1-60901-535-0. en.
5. Web site: About: Marceline. 2020-09-29. data.silknow.org.
6. Book: Commission, United States Tariff. Broad-silk Manufacture and the Tariff. 1926. U.S. Government Printing Office. en.
7. Web site: MARCELINE : Définition de MARCELINE. 2020-09-29. www.cnrtl.fr.
8. Book: Proust, Marcel. Days of Reading. 2008-08-07. Penguin UK. 978-0-14-196339-6. en.