List of grade milestones in rock climbing explained
In rock-climbing, a first free ascent (FFA) is the first redpoint, onsight or flash of a single-pitch, multi-pitch (or big wall), or boulder climbing route that did not involve using aid equipment to help progression or resting; the ascent must therefore be performed in either a sport, a traditional, or a free solo manner. First-free-ascents that set new grade milestones are important events in rock climbing history, and are listed below. While sport climbing has dominated absolute-grade milestones since the mid-1980s (i.e. are now the highest grades), milestones for modern traditional climbing, free solo climbing, onsighted, and flashed ascents, are also listed.
A route's grade is provisional until enough climbers have repeated the route to have a "consensus". At the highest grades, this can take years as few climbers are capable of repeating these routes. For example, in 2001, Realization was considered the world's first, however, the first repeat of the 1996 route , which only happened in 2008, suggested that it was possibly the first . Open Air has had no further repeats, and has had holds broken since 1996, whereas Realization has had many ascents and is thus a "consensus" 9a+. Therefore, where known, the 2nd, 3rd, and 4th ranked candidates are also chronicled.[1] [2]
As of October 2024, the hardest single-pitch redpoint was at the grade of for men and for women. The hardest onsight was at the grade of for men and for women. The hardest boulder solved was at the boulder grade of for men and for women. The hardest multi-pitch (or big wall) redpoint was at the grade of . The hardest single-pitch free solo was at the grade of, and the hardest multi-pitch (or big wall) free solo was at .
Single-pitch routes
Redpointed by men
- Silence – Flatanger Municipality (NOR) – September 3, 2017 – First ascent by Adam Ondra, who described it as "much harder than anything else" he had previously done, and cautiously suggested the 9c rating for the 45 m route.[3] [4] Remains unrepeated (August 2024).
- – Verdon Gorge (FRA) – April 29, 2022 – First ascent by Sébastien Bouin who proposed the grade of 9c, saying "Comparing this route to Bibliographie, Move, Beyond [Integral], it seems a step ahead", and "To choose 9c is to take a risk". Remains unrepeated (August 2024).[5]
- B.I.G. (also Project Big) – Flatanger Municipality (NOR) – September 20, 2023 – First ascent by Jakob Schubert, who worked on the route with Adam Ondra, and after consulting with Ondra, proposed 9c on the basis it was "definitely harder" than Perfecto Mundo, a "benchmark" 9b+. Remains unrepeated (August 2024).[6]
- Hugh – Les Eaux-Claires (FRA) – 1993 – Fourth-ever consensus 9a, by Fred Rouhling.
- Liquid Ambar – Pen Trwyn, (WAL) – May 1990 – First ascent by Jerry Moffatt who graded, but subsequent repeats have regraded it to 8c+.[20] [21]
- Hubble – Raven Tor, Peak District (ENG) – June 1990 – Considered first-ever consensus in history, by Ben Moon; later considered a possible first 8c+/9a, or even the first-ever 9a.
- Anaïs et le canabis – Saint Loup (SUI) – 1988 – Second-ever consensus, by Fred Nicole.
- Maginot Line (Plafond) – Volx (FRA) – 1989 – Fourth-ever consensus, by Ben Moon.
- La Rage de Vivre – Buoux (FRA) – 1986 – Second-ever consensus, by .
- Le Minimum – Buoux (FRA) – 1986 – Fourth-ever consensus, by .
- Les Mains Sales – Buoux (FRA) – 1985 – Second-ever consensus, by .[24]
- Le fluide enchanté – Mouriès (FRA) – 1985 – Third-ever consensus, by .
- La Rose et le Vampire – Buoux (FRA) – 1985 – Fourth-ever consensus, and iconic route, by .
- Le Bidule – Buoux (FRA) – 1984 – Second-ever consensus, by .
Pre-sport era
Many of the notable first ascents that achieved a new highest grade prior to The Face are traditional climbing routes:
- Cosmic Debris – Yosemite Valley, CA (US) – May, 1980 – Early 8a led by Bill Price.[26]
- Sphinx Crack – South Platte, CO (US) – April, 1981 – Early 8a led by Steve Hong.
- 13 Boulevard du Vol – Rochers de Freyr, (BEL) – 1981 – Early consensus, by Arnould t'Kint.
- La Crépinette – Les Eaux-Claires (FRA) – 1983 – Early consensus in history, by Fabrice Guillot (and first 8a in France).[27]
- Le Toit – Baou de Quatre Ouro (FRA) – 1981 – Second-ever consensus in history, by Patrick Edlinger.
- Chimpanzodrome – Le Saussois (FRA) – April, 1981 – Fourth-ever consensus in history, by Jean-Pierre Bouvier.
- Psycho Roof – Eldorado, CO (US) – 1975 – Estimated as the first-ever in history, by Steve Wunsch; only one ascent, due to large broken flake, and was possibly harder than 7c in 1975.[29] [30]
- The Pirate – Suicide Rock, CA – (US) – 1978 – Early 7c (5.12d) by Tony Yaniro.[31]
- Genesis – Eldorado, CO – (US) – 1979 – Early 7c (5.12d) by Jim Collins.[33]
- Super Crack – Shawangunks, (US) – 1974 Oct – Long considered the first-ever consensus by Steve Wunsch.[34]
- English Hanging Gardens – Big Rock, Lake Perris, California, (US) – 1970 – Regraded as possible first in history, by John Gosling.
- Constable's Overhang – Wilton, (ENG) – 1973 – Possible early 7b (5.12b), as is graded "hard" E5 6b, by Hank Pasquill.[36]
- Macabre Roof – Ogden, Utah, (US) – 1967 – First-ever roped 7a+ (5.12a) in history, flashed by Greg Lowe.[38] [39]
- Orchrist – Almscliff, (ENG) – July 1973 – Early 7a+ (5.12a) as was graded E5 6b, by Hank Pasquill.[40]
- The Throne – Shawangunks, NY (US) – 1973 – Very early climb, led by John Stannard.[41]
- Footless Crow – Goat Crag, Borrowdale, (ENG) – April 19, 1974 – Early 7a+ (5.12a) as was graded E5 6b, by Pete Livesey.
- Foops – Shawangunks, NY (US) – 1967 October – Often considered a first-ever consensus, by John Stannard.
Redpointed by women
La Planta de Shiva –
Villanueva del Rosario (ESP) – October 22, 2017 – First-ever female ascent of a 9b route, by
Angela Eiter.
[43] [44] Repeated by
Anak Verhoeven in 2024, making her only the fouth-ever female to redpoint a 9b route.
[45]
Madame Ching –
Tyrol (
AUT) – December 16, 2020 – Third female 9b, and first-ever female
FFA of a 9b, by
Angela Eiter; unrepeated.
[46] Erebor – Eremo di San Paolo,
Arco (ITA) – October 2, 2021 – Fourth-ever female ascent of a 9b (downgraded from 9b+), by
Laura Rogora.
[47] [48]
- Sweet neuf – Pierrot Beach (FRA) – September 11, 2017 – Second-ever female ascent, and first-ever female FFA of a 9a+, by Anak Verhoeven.[49] [50] Confirmed by (2019).[51]
- Papichulo – Oliana (ESP) – March 22, 2019 – Fourth-ever female ascent of a 9a+ route, by Margo Hayes.[53]
- Bimbaluna – Saint Loup (SUI) – 1 May 2005 – World's first-ever female ascent of a 9a/9a+ route, by Josune Bereziartu.[54]
- Open your Mind direct – Santa Linya (ESP) 17 March 2015 – Second female ascent of a 9a/9a+ route, by Ashima Shiraishi.[55]
- Logical Progression – Jo Yama (JPN) – November, 2004 – Second-ever female ascent of a 9a route, by Josune Bereziartu.
- Les 3 P – La grotte du Galetas, Verdon Gorge (FRA) – August, 2011 – Third-ever female ascent of a 9a route, by ; initially disputed, later verified.[57] [58]
- Honky Tonk Mix – Onate (ESP) – June, 2000 – First-ever female ascent of an 8c+ route, by Josune Bereziartu.[60]
- Noia – Andonno (ITA) – October, 2001 – Second-ever female ascent of an 8c+ route, by Josune Bereziartu.
- Na Nai – Baltzola (ESP) – June 18, 2003 – Third-ever female ascent of an 8c+ route, by Josune Bereziartu.
- Powerade – Vadiello (ESP) – May 21, 2007 – Fourth-ever female ascent of an 8c+ route, by Josune Bereziartu.
- Honky Tonky – Onate (ESP) – May, 1998 – First-ever female ascent of an 8c route, by Josune Bereziartu.
- White Zombie – Baltzola (ESP) – May, 1999 – Second-ever female ascent of an 8c route, by Josune Bereziartu.
- Raz – Baltzola (ESP) – May, 1999 – Third-ever female ascent of an 8c route, by Josune Bereziartu.
- Welcome to Tijuana – Rodellar (ESP) – May, 2000 – Fourth-ever female ascent of an 8c route, by Josune Bereziartu.
- No Sika, No Crime – Lehn (CHF) – 1993 – Second-ever female ascent of an 8b route, by Suzi Good.[62]
- Sortilèges – Le Cimai (FRA) – 1989 – Third-ever female ascent of an 8b route, by .
- Come Back – Val San Nicolò (ITA) – 1986 – First-ever female ascent of an 8a route, by .
- Rêve de Papillon – Buoux (FRA) – 1987 – Second-ever female ascent of an 8a route, by .
- Rêve de Papillon – Buoux (FRA) – 1987 – Third-ever female ascent of an 8a route, by Lynn Hill.
Pre-sport era
Many of the notable first female ascents that achieved a new highest grade pre Fleur de Rocaille, are traditional climbing routes:
- Chimpanzodrome – Le Saussois (FRA) – 1985 – Third-ever female ascent of a 7c+ route, by .
- Ophir Broke – Telluride (US) – 1979 – First free ascent and first-ever female lead of a 7c route (subsequently upgraded), by Lynn Hill.
- La Brujas – Tozal del Mallo, Aragon (ESP) – 1975 – Female redpoint of a 6b+ route by Marisa Montes.
Onsighted / Flashed by men
With route beta on the internet, the distinction between an onsight (no prior beta) and a flash (had prior beta) is less relevant; it is recorded where noted.
- Super Crackinette – Saint Léger (FRA) – 10 February 2018 – First-ever 9a+ flash (not onsight) in history, by Adam Ondra.[69]
- Southern Smoke Direct – Red River Gorge (USA) – 29 October 2012 – First-ever 9a flash (not onsight), by Adam Ondra.[70] [71]
- Estado Critico – Siurana (ESP) – 24 March 2013 – First-ever 9a onsight, by Alex Megos.
- Cabane au Canada – Rawyl (SUI) – 9 July 2013 – Second-ever 9a onsight, by Adam Ondra.[72]
- Il Domani – Baltzola (ESP) – 3 May 2014 – Third-ever 9a onsight, by Adam Ondra.[73]
- Water World – Pajkova Streha (SLO) – November 2022 – Fourth-ever 9a onsight, by Adam Ondra.[74]
- Kidetasunaren Balio Erantsia – Etxauri (ESP) – March 6, 2011 – Second-ever 8c+ onsight, by Adam Ondra.
- Powerade – Vadiello (La Caverna) (ESP) – March 9, 2011 – Fourth-ever 8c+ onsight, by Adam Ondra.
- White Zombie – Baltzola (ESP) – October 6, 2004 – First-ever 8c onsight, by Yuji Hirayama.[77]
- Pata Negra – Rodellar (ESP) – August 10, 2005 – Second-ever 8c onsight, by Tomáš Mrázek.
- Gaua – Lezaia (ESP) – October 10, 2005 – Third-ever 8c onsight, by Patxi Usobiaga.
- La Teoria Dell'8a – Grotta dell'Aeronauta (ITA) – November 23, 2005 – Fourth-ever 8c onsight, by Tomáš Mrázek.
- Massey Fergusson – Calanques (FRA) – 1995 – First-ever 8b+ onsight, by .[78]
- Maldita María – Cuenca (ESP) – 1996 – Second-ever 8b+ onsight, by .
- Liaisons Dangereuses – Les Calanques (Les Goudes), (FRA) – 1993 – First-ever 8b onsight, by
- Public Enemy – Cuenca, (ESP) – 1993 – Originally considered the first 8a+/8b onsight, by Stefan Glowacz, but consensus grade is now 8b.
(unknown)
- Samizdat – Cimai (FRA) – 1987 – First-ever 8a on-sight, by .[79]
- Equinox – Joshua Tree (US) – 1982 – First-ever 7c flash (not onsight), by Jerry Moffatt (originally considered 7b+).
- Chasin' the Trane – Frankenjura (GER) – 1983 – Third-ever 7c onsight, by Jerry Moffatt.
- Super Crack – Shawangunks (US) – 1982 – First-ever 7b+ flash (not onsight), by Jerry Moffatt.[82]
Onsighted / Flashed by women
With route beta on the internet, the distinction between an onsight (no prior beta) and a flash (had prior beta) is less relevant; it is recorded where noted.
- La Fabelita -– Santa Linya (ESP) – December 31, 2015 – First-ever female 8c flash, by Janja Garnbret (her flash of Rollito Sharma two days earlier was downgraded to 8b+).[84]
- American Hustle – Oliana (ESP) – November 4, 2021 – Second-ever female 8c onsight, by Janja Garnbret
- L'Antagonista – Montsant (ESP) – November 25, 2022 – Third-ever female (and the second female) 8c onsight, by Chaehyun Seo.[87]
- Hidrofobia – Montsant (ESP) – April, 2006 – First-ever female 8b+ onsight, by Josune Bereziartu (later considered possible 8b).[88]
- Humildes pa casa – Oliana (ESP) – April, 2010 – Second-ever female 8b+ onsight, by Maja Vidmar (later considered possible 8b+/c).[89]
- Les Rois du Pétrole – Pic Saint-Loup (FRA) – July, 2010 – Third-ever female 8b+ onsight, by (once considered the first 8c, but the route was downgraded).[90]
- Il Veccho et il Mare – Millennium Cave, Sardinia (ITA) – July, 2005 – Second-ever female 8b onsight, by .
- Bon Vintage – Terradets (ESP) – April, 2000 – First-ever female 8a+ onsight, by Josune Bereziartu.
- Déversé Satanique – Gorges du Loup (FRA) – October, 2001 – Third-ever female 8a+ onsight, by Josune Bereziartu.
- Simon – Frankenjura (GER) – 1992 – First-ever female 8a onsight, by Lynn Hill.
- Trojan – Mount Arapiles, Victoria (AUS) – 1981 – Onsight lead at grade 25 (5.12b) by Louise Shepherd.
- Crimson Cringe – Yosemite Valley, CA (US) – 1981 – Onsight lead by Louise Shepherd.
- Kloeberdanz – Eldorado Canyon, CO (US) – 1977 – Onsight lead at 5.11c by Coral Bowman.
- Vulcan – Tremadog, (WAL) – 1980 – Onsight lead at E4 6a by Jill Lawrence.[93]
- Wide Country (first pitch) – Eldorado Canyon CO (US) – June 1973 – Early female onsight at 5.11a by Diana Hunter.[94]
- Valhalla – Suicide Rock CA (US) – 1976 – Early female onsight at 5.11a by Maria Cranor.[95]
- Naked Edge (first pitch) – Eldorado Canyon CO (US) – October 1976 – Onsight lead at 5.11a by Beth Bennett.
Free-solo by men
Important free-solos, all were rehearsed except as noted; does not include "highball" boulder ascents as the climbers here did not use padding or spotters.[96]
- Panem et Circenses – Length: 15m (49feet) – Arco (IT) – March 2021 – First-ever 8c free solo, by Alfredo Webber, aged 52.[97]
- Darwin Dixit – Length: 15m (49feet) – Margalef (ESP) – March 2008 – Originally 8c, but downgraded to 8b+, by Dave MacLeod.[99]
- Revelations – Length: 15 meters – Raven Tor, Peak District (ENG) – 1985 – First-ever 8a free solo, by .
- Thimble – Length: 9 meters – Needles, SD, (US) – 1961 – First ascent and first-ever 7a+ free solo in history (and first-ever redpoint, see above), flashed by John Gill.[101]
- Spider Line – Length: 16 meters – Joshua Tree National Park, CA, (US) – February 1978 – First lead (free solo) and first free solo at 5.11d by John Yablonski.[102]
- Wall of Horrors – Length: 18 meters – Almscliff, (ENG) – 1961 – First lead (free solo) and first free solo at E3 6a by Allan Austin.[103]
- Western Front – Length: 13 meters – Almscliff, (ENG) – 1958 – First ascent, unrehearsed, now rated E3 5c, by Allan Austin.
- Left Wall – Length: 38 meters – Llanberis Pass, (ENG) – 1964 – First free ascent (free solo) rated E2 5c, by Rowland Edwards.[105]
- Sometime Crack – Length: 15 meters – Devil's Lake, WI, (US) – 1959 – Onsight first ascent by John Gill.
- Cave Arete Indirect – Length: 18 meters – Laddow Rocks, (ENG) – 1916 – Free solo first ascent by Ivar Berg.[106]
Boulder problems
Solved by men
- Alphane – Chironico (SUI) – April 6, 2022 – First ascent by Shawn Raboutou,[111] [112] and first repeat by Aidan Roberts (October 2022); Roberts was silent on the grade having never climbed at V17, and having previously failed on Burden of Dreams.[113] William Bosi made a second repeat in November 2022, and after feeling that it was less of a challenge than his FA of Honey Badger 8C+, later felt it was still at .[114]
- – Varazze (ITA) – 2008 – Considered the first-ever, by Christian Core. First repeat in 2011 by Adam Ondra who proposed an 8C+ grade, describing the boulder as one of the hardest in the world, together with Terranova (see below).[116] Third ascent by Nalle Hukkataival in 2014, and Niccolo Ceria in 2020, who were silent on grade.[117] [118] In 2015, it was discovered that new holds were chipped on the route, which Core tried to fix but not with complete success, leaving one new crimp that Core felt does lower the grade.[119] In 2021, a fifth repeat by Elias Lagnemma suggested a slightly lower grade of 8C/+ (using a kneepad).[120]
- Hypnotized Minds – Rocky Mountain (US) – October 2010 – Considered one of the first-ever consensus boulders, by Daniel Woods who initially proposed V15;[123] first repeat by (2016), and a second repeat by Dave Graham (2019), confirmed it as V16.[124]
- Viva l'Evolution – Tyrol (AUT) – September 2002 – Third-ever consensus in history, by .
- Walk Away SDS – Lake District, (ENG) – October 2002 – Considered the fourth-ever in history, by John Gaskins; unrepeated (2023)
- Nanuk – Königsee (GER) – 1997 – After repeated in 2012, considered the second-ever, by Klem Loskot.[128]
- La Danse des Balrogs – Branson, Valais, (SUI) – 1992 – First-ever consensus, by Fred Nicole.
- Enigma – Fontainebleau, (FRA) – 1992 – Considered the second-ever, by Philippe le Denmatt.
- Trice – Boulder, Colorado (US) – 1975 – Ungraded and unrepeated for 32 years, but is now considered the world's first, by Jim Holloway.[131]
- Slapshot – Flatirons (US) – 1977 – Ungraded and unrepeated for years, but considered one of the world's first, by Jim Holloway, and possibly .
- L’à Plat du Gain – Fontainebleau, (FRA) – 1988 – Considered one of the first-ever ascents of an, by Alain Ghersen.
- C’était Demain – Fontainebleau (FRA) – 1984 – Considered one of the first-ever ascents of an, by .
- Red Cross Overhang, or Gill Problem – Teton Range (US) – 1959 – Considered one of the first-ever ascents of a, by John Gill.
- Double Clutch – Flagstaff Mountain, Boulder, CO (US) – 1972 – Very early 7c (V8-V9) by Bob Williams.[132]
- Speed of Light Dyno – Black Mountains (US) – 1979 – Considered an important early ascent of a, by John Long.
- L'Abbé Résina – Fontainebleau, (FRA) – 1983 – Considered an important early ascent of a, by Pierre Richard.
- Le Carnage – Fontainebleau (FRA) – 1977 – Considered the first-ever ascent of a, by Jérôme Jean-Charles.[133]
- Le Joker – Fontainebleau (FRA) – 1953 – Considered one of the first-ever ascents of a, by .
- Marie-Rose – Fontainebleau (FRA) – 1946 – Considered one of the first-ever ascents of a, by .
Solved by women
- Kryptos – Morchelstock, Balsthal, (SUI) – June, 2018 – Third-ever female ascent of an, by Kaddi Lehmann.[140]
- Byaku-dou – Mount Hurai, (JPN) – May 5, 2019 – Fourth-ever female ascent of an, by Mishka Ishi.[141] [142]
- La traversia De Balzola – Balzola, (ESP) – 2002 – First-ever female ascent of an boulder traverse, by Josune Bereziartu.
- Catharsis – Shiobara, (JPN) – 20 October 2012 – First-ever female ascent of an, by Tomoko Ogawa.[143]
- New Base Line – Magic Wood, (SUI) – 12 July 2014 – Third-ever female ascent of an, by Shauna Coxsey.[145]
- The Riverbed – Magic Wood, (SUI) – 16 September 2010 – Second-ever female ascent of an, by Anna Stöhr.
- Solaris – Baltzoia, (SPA) – 15 April 2003 – Third-ever female to ascend a, by Josune Bereziartu.
- Berezi – Larraona, (SPA) – 2001 – Second-ever female ascent of a consensus, by Josune Bereziartu.
- Trois graines d'éternité – Fontainebleau, (FRA) – 1995 – Second-ever female ascent of a, by Dany Riche.
Multi-pitch routes
Given the smaller number of entries for multi-pitch and big wall routes, the sections below combine milestones for overall and female ascents. In some cases (e.g. the Salathé Wall and Dawn Wall), the first free ascent was by a climbing pair alternating leads, and in such instances, the first individual to free climb all the pitches is also recorded.
Redpointed
- Wu Wei (180-metres, 5-pitches) – Picco delle Aquile, Dolomites (ITA) – 16 August 2023 – Second-ever multi-pitch redpoint at, by Alessandro Zeni.[151] [155]
- Lurgorri (250-metres, 6-pitches) – Naranjo de Bulnes (ESP) – 13 August 2006 – First-ever multi-pitch redpoint at, by brothers and .[151] [156]
- Nirwana (200-metres, 5-pitches) – Sonnwendwand, (AUT) – 9 September 2012 – Second-ever multi-pitch redpoint at at, by Alexander Huber.[151] [157] [158]
- (500-metres, 10-pitches) – Cima Ovest, Dolomites (ITA) – 18 July 2001 – First-ever big wall redpoint at, by Alexander Huber;[151] [159] repeating the route in 2007 (to create Pan Aroma, also 8c), Huber found some key holds were "treated" from a 2005 attempt, and the crux was heavily lined with pegs, which had softened the grade to 8b/8b+.[160] [161]
- (250-metres, 7-pitches) – Rätikon (SUI) – 26 July 2008 – Third-ever multi-pitch redpoint at, by a 15-year old Adan Ondra;[151] created by who never fully freed the line, which he named in honour of Wolfgang Gullich.[164]
- Neverending Story (450-metres, 11-pitches) – 7th Kirlichspitze, Rätikon (SUI) – 1991 – First multi-pitch at, by .[151]
- The Nose (870-metres, 31-pitches) – El Capitan, Yosemite (USA) – 1993 – Second multi-pitch at,[151] by Lynn Hill (partnered by Brooke Sandahl); the big-wall free climb is considered as one of the most important ascents in rock climbing history, and also a major milestone in female rock climbing; in 1994, Hill repeated it in under 24 hours; took over a decade for the first clean repeat.[166]
- After The Nose, the were the next graded multi-pitch routes to be fully freed:[151]
- (185-metres, 6-pitches) – Rätikon (SWZ) – 1993/94 – Multi-pitch at, by .
- New Age (150-metres, 5-pitches) – 7th Kirlichspitze, Rätikon (SUI) – 1989 – First multi-pitch at, by .
- Via Acacia (330-metres, 9-pitches) – 5th Kirlichspitze, Rätikon (SUI) – 1988 – First big wall free climb at, by .
- Regular Northwest Face (690-meters, 24 pitches) – Half Dome, Yosemite (USA) – 1976 – First big wall free climb at 7b+ (5.12c) by Art Higbee and Jim Erickson.[171] [172] 20 years later, a variation to the crux pitch was found to keep the entire route at 5.12a.
- Hall of Mirrors (650-meters, 16 pitches) – Glacier Point, Yosemite (USA) –1980 – Second big wall free climb at 7b+ (5.12c) by Chris Cantwell, Scott Burk, Scott Cole.[173]
- Amarcord (400-metres, 9-pitches) – 7th Kirlichspitze, Rätikon (SUI) – 1984 – Third big wall free climb at, by .[174]
- Pegasus (360-meters, 14-pitches) Quarter Dome, Yosemite Valley (US) – 1979 – Big Wall free climb at 5.12b by Max Jones and Mark Hudon.
- Macabre Wall (180-meters, 5-pitches) – Ogden, UT (US) – 1967 – Multi-pitch free climb at 5.12a led by Greg Lowe.
- Footless Crow (60-meters, 2-pitches) – Goat Crag, Lake District (UK) – April 1974 – Multi-pitch free climb at E5 6b by Pete Livesey, harder today due to large broken flake.
- Air Voyage (550-meters, 13-pitches) – Black Canyon National Park CO (US) – 1979 – Big Wall free climb at 5.12a by Leonard Coyne and Ken Sims.
- Infinite (91-meters, 3-pitches) – Clamshell Rock, City of Rocks, ID (US) –1967 – Multi-pitch climb at 5.11d led onsight by Greg Lowe.[176]
- Mittelpfeiler (300-meters, 7-pitches) Sass dla Crusc, Dolomites, (ITA) – July 1968 – Multi-pitch free climb at UIAA Grade VIII led on sight by Reinhold and Günther Messner.
- New Frontier (75-meters, 2-pitches) – Millbrook Shawangunks NY (US) – 1969 – Multi-pitch Free Ascent at 5.11b by Gary Brown and John Stannard.[177]
- Naked Edge (205-meters, 7-pitches) – Redgarden Wall Eldorado Canyon CO (US) – Oct 1971 – Multi-pitch Free Ascent at 5.11b by Jim Erickson and Duncan Ferguson.[178]
- Wide Country (120-meters, 4-pitches) – Bastille Eldorado Canyon CO (US) – June 1972 – First Free Ascent at 5.11b by Duncan Ferguson and Don Peterson.[179]
- Basket Case (255-meters, 7-pitches) – Basket Dome Yosemite CA (US) – June 1972 – Multi-pitch free climb at 5.11b by Mark Klemens, Jim Bridwell and Jim Donini.
- Solleder Route, Direct Finish (700-meters total, 19-pitches total) –Furchetta Dolomites (ITA) – 1932 – New five-pitch variation at UIAA Grade VII added to the route by Giovanni Vinatzer and Vincenzo Perista.
- Rebitsch-Spiegl (300-meters, 8-pitches) – Fleischbank Wilde Kaiser (AUT) – 1946 – Multi-pitch free climb at UIAA Grade VII by Mathias Rebitsch and Sepp Spiegl.
- Nordverschneidung (800-meters, 20-pitches) – Lalidererspitze Karwendel (AUT) – 1947 – Big wall free climb at UIAA Grade VII by Mathias Rebitsch and Franz Lorenz.
- Via Vinatzer (180-meters, 6-pitches) – Stevia, Val Gardena, Dolomites, (ITA) – 1933 – Multi-pitch at UIAA Grade VII- by Giovanni Vinatzer and Vincenzo Peristi.[180]
- Via Solda (650-meters, 18-pitches) – Marmolada, Dolomites, (ITA) – August 1936 – Big wall free climb at UIAA Grade VII- by Gino Solda and Umberto Conforto.
- Via Vinatzer-Castiglioni (900-meters, 29-pitches) – Marmolada, Dolomites, (ITA) – Sept 1936 – Big wall free climb at UIAA Grade VII- by Giovanni Vinatzer and Ettore Castiglioni.
- Micheluzzi Route (720-meters, 19-pitches) – Marmolada, Dolomites, (ITA) –1929 – Big wall free climb at UIAA Grade VI+ by Luigi Micheluzzi, Roberto Perathoner, Demitrio Christomannos.
- Ha-He Verschneidung (360-meters, 12-pitches) – Dreizinkenspitze, Karwendel (AUT) – August 1921 – Big wall free climb at UIAA Grade VI by Otto Herzog and Gustav Haber.[182]
- Solleder Route (1,100-meters, 44-pitches) Monte Civetta, Dolomites, (ITA) – August 4, 1925 – Big wall free climb at UIAA Grade VI by Emil Solleder and Gustl Lettenbauer.
Free-soloed
All of these climbs were rehearsed except as noted below.
- The Moonlight Buttress (364-meters, 10-pitches) – Zion National Park (USA) – 1 April 2008 – Likely the second-ever big wall free solo at, by Alex Honnold; took 83 minutes.[188]
- Nabisco Wall (via Butterballs) (110-meters, 3-pitches) – Yosemite Valley, (USA) – 1979 – First-ever multi-pitch free solo at, by John Bachar.
- Astroman (300-meters, 12-pitches) – Yosemite Valley, (USA) – 1987 – First-ever Big Wall free solo at 5.11c by Peter Croft.
- The Boldest (75-meters, 2-pitches) – Clogwyn (WAL) – 1969 – Multi-pitch free solo at E4 5c by Alan Rouse.
- Pipeline (140-meters, 4-pitches) – Squamish BC (CAN) – 1979 – Onsight First Free Ascent at 5.10d by Greg Cameron.
- Scenic Cruise (600-meters, 14-pitches) – Black Canyon, CO – (US) – 1979 – Big wall free solo at 5.10d, four of the pitches soloed on sight, by Earl Wiggins.
- Vector (90-meters, 4-pitches) – Tremadog (UK) – 1969 – Multi-pitch free solo at E2 5c by Alan McHardy.
- Sooberb (70-meters, 3-pitches) – Eldorado Canyon CO (US) – 1972 – Onsight First Free Ascent at 5.10c by Jim Erickson.
- Cassin Route (800-meters, 21-pitches) – Piz Badile, Bregaglia, (SUI) – 1952 – Onsight Big Wall free solo, in four and a half hours, by Hermann Buhl.[194]
- Solleder Route (1,100-meters, 44-pitches) – Civetta, Dolomites, (ITA) – 1952 – Big Wall free solo by Cesare Maestri.
- Piaz Route (240-meters, 6-pitches) – Punta Emma, Cima Catinaccio, Dolomites, (ITA) – 1901 – Onsight multi-pitch first ascent by Tita Piaz.
- Via Preuss (110-meters, 5-pitches) – Campanile Basso, Dolomites, (ITA) – 1911 – Onsight multi-pitch first ascent by Paul Preuss.
See also
- History of rock climbing
- Notable ascents and grade milestones in deep-water soloing
- Hardest routes in traditional climbing
- Evolution of grade milestones in dry-tooling
- Evolution of grade milestones in mixed climbing
- Evolution of grade milestones in ice climbing
References
Further reading
External links
Notes and References
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- Web site: PlanetMountain . Jakob Schubert proposes 9c for B.I.G. at Flatanger. 28 September 2023 . 28 September 2023 .
- Web site: Second Ascent of Change 9b+ by Stefano Ghisolfi. Natalie Berry. September 28, 2020. October 14, 2020.
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- Web site: EveningSends . Andrew . Bisharat . Setting and Revising the Record in Climbing . 4 April 2016 . 21 June 2022 . The other interesting point about Open Air that’s worth mentioning is that the route reportedly contains some rather flaky holds that have broken off over the years. So was the Open Air that Ondra climbed the exact same route that Alex Huber climbed? Maybe, but probably not..
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