List of Mount Everest guides explained

This is a list of notable Mount Everest guides, which are professional mountaineers (and mountaineering firms) who help people to ascend Mount Everest in the Himalayas in return for fees. Previously, the summit was only accessible to expert mountaineers who were often self-guided, or assisted by local sherpas.

Role

Guides can, for example, set fixed lines of rope for others to use, organize rescues in times of trouble, or use communication tools to call in helicopter evacuations.^[1] Another job on Mount Everest is as an "icefall doctor" using ladders and ropes to make a path across the Khumbu Icefall, which guides might do themselves or delegate to others.^[2] Guides, especially if they are guiding for a mountaineering or adventure company, often call the people they help up "clients".

Another task on Everest is helping people with medical problems, although the work can be dangerous.^[3] When potentially deadly health conditions strike, the guides can sometimes lose their clients or abort the climb. One mother of two died after developing a health problem at the Everest base camp.^[4]

Mount Everest guides assist climbers on what are called "guided" climbs, and guided ascent can cost double an unguided one.^[5] Many climbers in more recent times are unguided but can get some support from a Sherpa, which, though more similar to an Alpinist porter, is much cheaper and also called a guide.^[5] The term guide can mean something along the lines of an assistant all the way to a World-famous mountaineer.^[5]

Notable guides

• Adrian Ballinger^[6]
• Andy Harris
• Andy Tyson^[7]
• Anatoli Boukreev^[8]
• Andrew LockHome
• Arnold Coster
• Bill Allen
• Dan Nash^[6]
• Daniel Mazur^[9]
• Dave Hahn^[10]
• David Breashears^[11]
• David Hamilton^[12]
• David Morton^{[13] [14]}
• Jacob Schmitz
• Dean Staples^[15]
• Eric Simonson^[16]
• Garrett Madison^[17]
• Gheorghe Dijmărescu
• Kenton Cool^[18]
• Lydia Bradey^[15]
• Mike Hamill
• Mark Whetu^[19]
• Mark Woodward^[15]
• Michael Horst^[20]
• Michael Groom
• Mike Roberts^[15]
• Neal Beidleman^[21]
• Phil Crampton^[22]
• Phil Ershler^[23]
• Rob Hall^{[1] [24]}
• Russell Brice^[25]
• Scott Fischer^[24]
• Vernon Tejas
• Wally Berg^[26]
• Ryan Waters
• Willie Benegas

Notable Nepali guides

• Ang Rita (Angrita Sherpa)
• Ang Dorje Sherpa
• Ang Tharkay
• Apa Sherpa
• Babu Chiri Sherpa
  • Kami Rita Sherpa Lakpa Gelu
• Lopsang Jangbu Sherpa
• Nawang Gombu
• Pem Dorjee Sherpa
• Pertemba (Pertemba Sherpa)
• Phurba Tashi
• Sungdare Sherpa
• Temba Tsheri
• Tashi Tenzing
• Tenzing Norgay

Notable firms

• Adventure Consultants
• Asian Trekking
• Himex (Himalayan Experience)
• Jagged Globe^[12]
• Mountain Madness

See also

• List of summiters of Mount Everest
• List of people who died climbing Mount Everest
• Nepal Mountaineering Association

External links

• Alan's page on guides

Notes and References

1. Web site: Fixed ropes - climbers guide to Everest. mounteverest.net. 23 March 2015.
2. Web site: Elite Sherpa Dies in Fall on Everest. April 8, 2013.
3. Web site: Rutgers graduate dies on Mount Everest. Courier News.
4. Web site: British mother Debra Wilding dies climbing Everest.
5. http://www.vsthemountain.com/2010/05/cost-of-climbing-everest.html The Cost$ of Climbing Everest, 2010
6. Web site: Speeding Up Everest. April 3, 2014.
7. Web site: Andy Tyson. April 16, 2015. Teton Valley News.
8. Web site: Into Thin Air: A Personal Account of the Mount Everest Disaster by Jon Krakauer (9780385494786) Riverbend Books . www.riverbendbooks.com.au . dead . https://web.archive.org/web/20150714205436/http://www.riverbendbooks.com.au/products/603495?barcode=9780385494786&title=IntoThinAir%3AAPersonalAccountoftheMountEverestDisaster . 2015-07-14.
9. Web site: Inside Dateline: Everest survivor. June 21, 2006. NBC News.
10. Web site: National Geographic. https://web.archive.org/web/20130607230858/http://ngm.nationalgeographic.com/2013/06/125-everest-maxed-out/jenkins-text. dead. June 7, 2013.
11. Web site: The Adventurer: Dick Bass' Many Summits. https://web.archive.org/web/20040511035411/http://www.forbes.com/2003/11/12/cz_jc_1112sport.html. dead. May 11, 2004. Forbes.
12. News: Everest: is it right to go back to the top? . 2015-04-12. The Guardian. 2018-01-12. en-GB.
13. Web site: After the Shock: Walking the Everest Route Outside Online . www.outsideonline.com . dead . https://web.archive.org/web/20150510101416/http://www.outsideonline.com/1978001/after-shock-walking-everest-route . 2015-05-10.
14. Web site: Dave Morton is Quitting Everest. Maybe. (It's Complicated.). 5 April 2016.
15. Web site: Record-breaking glory on Mt Everest. May 25, 2023. NZ Herald.
16. Web site: Conrad Anker, the Wildest Dream: Conquest of Everest -- National Geographic . 2013-08-19 . dead . https://web.archive.org/web/20130607063501/http://adventure.nationalgeographic.com/adventure/expeditions/everest-mallory-anker/ . 2013-06-07 .
17. Web site: Mount Everest avalanche survivor: 'I had to survive'. USA TODAY.
18. News: What is it like to climb Everest?. BBC News .
19. Web site: The Fatal Game - Alpinist.com. www.alpinist.com.
20. Web site: Everest and Lhotse in Less Than 21 Hours . Climbing.com . 16 October 2011 . dead . https://web.archive.org/web/20110920230624/http://www.climbing.com/news/hotflashes/everest_and_lhotse_in_less_than_21_hours/ . 20 September 2011 .
21. Web site: Facts & Statistics | Storm Over Everest | FRONTLINE | PBS. www.pbs.org.
22. Web site: Everest on hold as Sherpas call for fairer pay. NDTV.com.
23. Web site: Conquering life's lows has been the true test of climbing couple's mettle.
24. Web site: Those Who Died | Storm Over Everest | FRONTLINE | PBS. www.pbs.org.
25. Book: The Times They Are A Changin': The Effect of Institutional Change on Cooperative Behaviour at 26,000ft over Sixty Years. D.. Savage. B.. Torgler. February 25, 2015. Springer. 9781137525154 . Google Books.
26. Web site: Everest: Wally Berg. May 14, 2010.