Lead climbing at the 2021 IFSC Climbing World Cup explained

Event:Lead climbing
Competition:2021 IFSC Climbing World Cup
Location:
Dates:23 June – 4 September 2021
Men: Stefano Ghisolfi
Women: Janja Garnbret
Prev:2020
Next:2022

Competition lead climbing at the 2021 IFSC Climbing World Cup was held at five locations, from 23 June to 4 September 2021. The International Federation of Sport Climbing had initially scheduled six competition-lead climbing events concluding on 17 October, but COVID-19 travel restrictions resulted in the cancellation of the event in Xiamen, China.[1]

The top three in each competition received medals, and at the end of the season, the overall winners were awarded trophies. The overall winners were determined based upon points, which athletes were awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event. Stefano Ghisolfi won the men's seasonal title, Janja Garnbret won the women's seasonal title, and Slovenia won the national team title.[2]

Overview

!Date!Location!Venue!Route-setters*!Men!Women
June, 23–26 Innsbruck, AustriaKletterzentrum Innsbruck[3]
  • Adam Pustelnik
  • Jan Zbranek
  • Okano Hiroshi
 Jakob Schubert Janja Garnbret
July, 1–3 Villars, SwitzerlandPlace du Rendez-Vous[4]
  • Julien Gras
  • Christian Bindhammer
  • Reinhard Fichtinger
 Sean Bailey Janja Garnbret
July, 12–13 Chamonix, FrancePlace du Mont Blanc[5]
  • Marcin Wszolek
  • Vincent De Girolamo
  • Florian Murnig
 Sean Bailey Laura Rogora
July, 17–18 Briançon, FranceParc des Sports[6]
  • Martin Hammerer
  • Anna Gallyamova
  • Alberto Gnerro
 Stefano Ghisolfi Eliška Adamovská
September, 3–4 Kranj, SloveniaDvorana Zlato polje[7]
  • Vincent De Girolamo
  • Julien Gras
  • Martin Hammerer
 Masahiro Higuchi Janja Garnbret
OVERALL WINNERS Stefano Ghisolfi Janja Garnbret
NATIONAL TEAM Slovenia
* Chief route-setters are in bold.

Overall ranking

The overall ranking is determined based upon points, which athletes are awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event. There are five competitions in the season. The national ranking is the sum of the points of that country's three best male and female athletes. Results displayed in parentheses are not counted.

Men

The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Lead World Cup 2021:[8]

RankNAMEPointsInnsbruckVillarsChamonixBriançonKranj
1 Stefano Ghisolfi3192. 8011. 312. 801. 10012. 28
2 Sean Bailey277(—)1. 1001. 1004. 5515. 22
3 Masahiro Higuchi2634. 557. 439. 3712. 281. 100
4 Luka Potočar2127. 4325. 67. 438. 402. 80
5 Sascha Lehmann2043. 6512. 284. 555. 5126. 5
6 Martin Stráník192.8712. 2832. 0.873. 653. 6510. 34
7 Alberto Ginés López1695. 515. 5114. 247. 43(—)
8 Sebastian Halenke160.057. 04. 5515. 2217. 183. 65
9 Domen Škofic13517. 1815. 2225. 610. 344. 55
10 Alexander Megos1276. 472. 80(—)(—)(—)

Women

The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Lead World Cup 2021:[9]

RankNAMEPointsInnsbruckVillarsChamonixBriançonKranj
1 Janja Garnbret3001. 1001. 100(—)(—)1. 100
2 Natalia Grossman29625. 63. 652. 802. 803. 65
3 Laura Rogora2787. 432. 801. 100(—)4. 55
4 Vita Lukan2696. 475. 514. 553. 655. 51
5 Lucka Rakovec1858. 407. 4323. 86. 476. 47
6 Aleksandra Totkova16818. 166. 473. 658. 40(—)
7 Eliška Adamovská16212. 28(—)10. 341. 100(—)
8 Momoko Abe14613. 264. 5511. 3125. 612. 28
9 Natsuki Tanii128(—)(—)5. 519. 378. 40
9 Lana Skusek12816. 2011. 3143. 07. 4310. 34

National Teams

The results of the ten most successful countries of the Lead World Cup 2021:[10]

Country names as used by the IFSC

RankNationPointsInnsbruckVillarsChamonixBriançonKranj
1 Slovenia1244.02. 274.02. 229.05. 135.01. 230.01. 376.0
21041.01. 279.03. 193.04. 158.05. 134.02. 277.0
3905.955. 110.551. 269.02. 237.02. 200.55. 88.9
4 Italy796.83. 149.756. 132.851. 244.54. 164.04. 105.7
5593.958. 80.755. 147.23. 192.07. 87.06. 87.0
6 Germany547.210. 57.24. 159.07. 91.356. 95.853. 143.8
7 Czech Republic396.557. 96.019. 0.96. 99.853. 165.813. 34.0
8 Austria364.254. 117.657. 71.7513. 35.59. 77.758. 61.6
9 Switzerland340.156. 96.39. 50.48. 86.810. 70.9512. 35.7
10 Russia262.559. 57.7511. 41.812. 40.08. 80.011. 43.0

Innsbruck, Austria (June, 23–26)

Men

99 men competed in the event.[11]

Italy's Stefano Ghisolfi set an early high-point in the final which could only be surpassed by Austria's Jakob Schubert who took first place in front of his home crowd. Switzerland's Sascha Lehmann took third place after pushing Japan's Masahiro Higuchi to fourth place on count-back. Czech Republic's superstar Adam Ondra slipped low down on the final route and placed 8th.[12]

RankNameQualificationSemi-FinalFinal
Route 1Route 2Points
ScoreRankScoreRank
Jakob Schubert38138+31.7339+47+
Stefano Ghisolfi3733565.131+47
Sascha Lehmann34+831+1411.6239+38+
4 Masahiro Higuchi373118918.9734+38+
5 Alberto Ginés López321634+812.3341+37+
6 Alexander Megos37339+22.8338+37+
7 Luka Potočar32+13233421.8239+27+
8 Adam Ondra37+2TOP11.4142+17

Women

75 women competed in the event.[13]

Slovenia's Janja Garnbret claimed the only top on the final route, claiming the win. USA's Brooke Raboutou placed second while Japan's Akiyo Noguchi placed third.

RankNameQualificationSemi-FinalFinal
Route 1Route 2Points
ScoreRankScoreRank
Janja GarnbretTOP1TOP11.4142+TOP
Brooke Raboutou39+4TOP12.8336.5+40
Akiyo Noguchi311135+47.532+33+
4 Viktoriia Meshkova31+733+1010.913522+
5 Miho Nonaka311133+1013.233222+
6 Vita Lukan4133474.935+19+
7 Laura Rogora46+2TOP12.04213+
8 Lucka Rakovec3353476.3236.5+13+

Villars, Switzerland (July, 1–3)

Men

68 men competed in the event.[14]

USA's Sean Bailey won the gold medal. Germany's Alexander Megos took second while USA's Colin Duffy took third.[15] [16]

RankNameQualificationSemi-FinalFinal
Route 1Route 2Points
ScoreRankScoreRank
Sean BaileyTOP132+189.644038
Alexander Megos39+8TOP15.6137+35+
Colin Duffy38+16TOP17.043631+
4 Sebastian Halenke39+832+1818.0437+26.5+
5 Alberto Ginés López39+8331512.9640+26.5
6 Paul Jenft3521TOP18.313626
7 Masahiro Higuchi39+832+1818.0437+12
8 Zento Murashita352134814.7836+11+

Women

53 women competed in the event.[17]

Slovenia's Janja Garnbret topped all the routes in the competition, taking the win. Italy's Laura Rogora also topped the final route, but took silver due to count-back. USA's Natalia Grossman took bronze.

RankNameQualificationSemi-FinalFinal
Route 1Route 2Points
ScoreRankScoreRank
Janja GarnbretTOP1TOP11.41TOPTOP
Laura Rogora20+17TOP17.3545+TOP
Natalia Grossman35+540+45.2434+42+
4 Momoko Abe36+3TOP12.6535+40+
5 Vita Lukan20+1740+412.1935+40+
6 Aleksandra Totkova32+635+118.4636+33+
7 Lucka Rakovec37240+43.3240+17+
8 Mia Krampl36+335126.483517+

Chamonix, France (July, 12–13)

Men

73 men competed in the event.[18]

USA's Sean Bailey claimed his second win in the Lead World Cup. Italy's Stefano Ghisolfi and Czech Republic's Martin Stráník fell at the same crux in the final round and placed second and third respectively on count-back.[19] [20]

RankNameQualificationSemi-FinalFinal
Route 1Route 2Points
ScoreRankScoreRank
Sean Bailey37+540108.314334+
Stefano Ghisolfi32+26TOP111.624632
Martin Stráník35+10391714.94332
4 Sascha Lehmann378TOP16.047+29
5 Victor BaudrandTOP138215.6141+28+
6 Marcello Bombardi35+1040+910.3941+26+
7 Luka Potočar33+19401015.914525+
8 Paul Jenft32+26TOP111.6245+25

Women

62 women competed in the event.[21]

Italy's Laura Rogora topped three out of four routes in the competition, earning her a gold medal. USA's Natalia Grossman placed second while Bulgaria's Aleksandra Totkova placed third.

RankNameQualificationSemi-FinalFinal
Route 1Route 2Points
ScoreRankScoreRank
Laura Rogora44+21TOP19.81TOPTOP
Natalia Grossman502TOP13.24TOP41+
Aleksandra Totkova5024874.58TOP38+
4 Vita Lukan49+541+128.49TOP38+
5 Natsuki Tanii44+2147814.83TOP32+
6 Julia Chanourdie498TOP15.77TOP29+
7 Ashima Shiraishi471840+1415.87TOP29+
8 Dinara Fakhritdinova498TOP15.77TOP28+

Briançon, France (July, 17–18)

Men

68 men competed in the event.[22]

Italy's Stefano Ghisolfi fell high on the head-wall and won the gold medal. Russia's Dmitrii Fakirianov and Czech Republic's Martin Stráník placed second and third respectively.[23]

RankNameQualificationSemi-FinalFinal
Route 1Route 2Points
ScoreRankScoreRank
Stefano Ghisolfi32+232+43.042+42+
Dmitrii Fakirianov155233+211.5140+39+
Martin Stráník29+32985.6639+37+
4 Sean Bailey29+327168.042+36
5 Sascha Lehmann22+1632+49.2537+35
6 Fedir Samoilov29627+139.543735
7 Alberto Ginés López22+1633+26.893727+
8 Luka Potočar33130+72.653722

Women

56 women competed in the event.[24]

Czech Republic's Eliška Adamovská claimed her first gold medal. USA's Natalia Grossman placed second while Slovenia's Vita Lukan placed third.

RankNameQualificationSemi-FinalFinal
Route 1Route 2Points
ScoreRankScoreRank
Eliška Adamovská30527+179.35TOP36
Natalia Grossman34+13611.0TOP35+
Vita Lukan124935+213.1TOP29
4 Ashima Shiraishi23+2332+813.98TOP27+
5 Ryu Nakagawa31+3243711.5336+27+
6 Lucka Rakovec33+235+22.65TOP26+
7 Lana Skusek28+734+67.553824+
8 Aleksandra Totkova27+14281514.734122+

Kranj, Slovenia (September, 3–4)

Men

61 men competed in the event.[25]

Japan's Masahiro Higuchi won his first World Cup gold medal. Slovenia's Luka Potočar placed second and Germany's Sebastian Halenke placed second and third respectively on count-back. Italy's Stefano Ghisolfi, placing 12th in the competition, was crowned this season overall Lead World Cup champion.[26]

RankNameQualificationSemi-FinalFinal
Route 1Route 2Points
ScoreRankScoreRank
Masahiro Higuchi29+1437+812.9641+37
Luka Potočar18+46TOP110.954131+
Sebastian Halenke29+143859.840+31+
4 Domen ŠkoficTOP1TOP13.7129+31+
5 Fedir Samoilov25+2537+816.8437+30+
6 Satone Yoshida29+1437+812.9640+16+
7 Milan PreskarTOP1351910.4934+15+
8 Ao YurikusaTOP13855.7433+15+

Women

45 women competed in the event.[27]

Slovenia's Janja Garnbret, back from the 2020 Tokyo Olympics, claimed the gold medal and by doing so also claimed the overall Lead World Cup title. South Korea's Chaehyun Seo claimed silver while USA's Natalia Grossman claimed bronze.

RankNameQualificationSemi-FinalFinal
Route 1Route 2Points
ScoreRankScoreRank
Janja GarnbretTOP143+85.3447+49+
Chaehyun SeoTOP1TOP13.03646
Natalia Grossman29+10TOP16.037+41+
4 Laura RogoraTOP1TOP13.044+39
5 Vita Lukan34+643+88.1538+39
6 Lucka Rakovec291544710.4236+34+
7 Dinara Fakhritdinova34+6TOP14.5835+31+
8 Natsuki Tanii25+18362824.1734+26

Notes and References

  1. Web site: 20 August 2021. Sport climbing World Cup events in China canceled because of COVID-19. 2021-09-05. www.insidethegames.biz.
  2. Web site: Results. 2021-09-03. www.ifsc-climbing.org.
  3. Web site: 2021 Innsbruck info sheet.
  4. Web site: 2021 Villars info sheet.
  5. Web site: 2021 Chamonix info sheet.
  6. Web site: 2021 Briançon info sheet.
  7. Web site: 2021 Kranj info sheet.
  8. Web site: IFSC CLIMBING WORLD CUP 2021: LEAD MEN. 2021-09-05. www.ifsc-climbing.org.
  9. Web site: IFSC CLIMBING WORLD CUP 2021: LEAD WOMEN. 2021-09-05. www.ifsc-climbing.org.
  10. Web site: IFSC CLIMBING WORLD CUP 2021: LEAD NATIONAL TEAM RANKING. 2021-09-05. www.ifsc-climbing.org.
  11. Web site: IFSC - CLIMBING WORLD CUP (B,L) - INNSBRUCK (AUT) 2021 - GENERAL RESULT LEAD MEN. 2021-09-05. www.ifsc-climbing.org.
  12. Web site: NEWS: IFSC Lead and Boulder World Cup Innsbruck 2021 - Report. 2021-09-06. www.ukclimbing.com.
  13. Web site: IFSC - CLIMBING WORLD CUP (B,L) - INNSBRUCK (AUT) 2021 - GENERAL RESULT LEAD WOMEN. 2021-09-05. www.ifsc-climbing.org.
  14. Web site: IFSC - CLIMBING WORLD CUP (L,S) - VILLARS (SUI) 2021 - GENERAL RESULT LEAD MEN. 2021-09-05. www.ifsc-climbing.org.
  15. Web site: 2021-07-03. Sean Bailey Wins Gold, Colin Duffy and Natalia Grossman Get Bronze at World Cup—On a Roll. 2021-09-06. Climbing.
  16. Web site: NEWS: IFSC Lead and Speed World Cup Villars 2021. 2021-09-06. www.ukclimbing.com.
  17. Web site: IFSC - CLIMBING WORLD CUP (L,S) - VILLARS (SUI) 2021 - GENERAL RESULT LEAD WOMEN. 2021-09-05. www.ifsc-climbing.org.
  18. Web site: IFSC - CLIMBING WORLD CUP (L) - CHAMONIX (FRA) 2021 - GENERAL RESULT LEAD MEN. 2021-09-05. www.ifsc-climbing.org.
  19. Web site: 2021-07-13. Unreal—Another Gold for Sean Bailey, That's Two In a Row. 2021-09-06. Climbing.
  20. Web site: NEWS: IFSC Lead World Cups Chamonix and Briançon 2021 - Report. 2021-09-06. www.ukclimbing.com.
  21. Web site: IFSC - CLIMBING WORLD CUP (L) - CHAMONIX (FRA) 2021 - GENERAL RESULT LEAD WOMEN. 2021-09-05. www.ifsc-climbing.org.
  22. Web site: IFSC - CLIMBING WORLD CUP (L) - BRIANÇON (FRA) 2021 - GENERAL RESULT LEAD MEN. 2021-09-05. www.ifsc-climbing.org.
  23. Web site: 2021-07-18. Briançon Threatens to Crush Team USA Under the Weight of Medals. 2021-09-06. Climbing.
  24. Web site: IFSC - CLIMBING WORLD CUP (L) - BRIANÇON (FRA) 2021 - GENERAL RESULT LEAD WOMEN. 2021-09-05. www.ifsc-climbing.org.
  25. Web site: IFSC - CLIMBING WORLD CUP (L) - KRANJ (SLO) 2021 - GENERAL RESULT LEAD MEN. 2021-09-05. www.ifsc-climbing.org.
  26. Web site: 2021-09-04. Garnbret, Grossman Battle At Climbing's World Cup Lead Finals In Slovenia. Results and Highlights.. 2021-09-06. Climbing.
  27. Web site: IFSC - CLIMBING WORLD CUP (L) - KRANJ (SLO) 2021 - GENERAL RESULT LEAD WOMEN. 2021-09-05. www.ifsc-climbing.org.

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