Lead climbing at the 2019 IFSC Climbing World Cup explained

Event:Lead climbing
Competition:2019 IFSC Climbing World Cup
Location:
Dates:4 July – 27 October 2019
Men: Adam Ondra
Women: Chaehyun Seo
Prev:2018
Next:2020

Competition lead climbing at the 2019 IFSC Climbing World Cup was held over six stages at six different locations, from 4 July to 27 October 2019. The top three in each competition received medals, and at the end of the season, the overall winners were awarded trophies. The overall winners were determined based upon points, which athletes were awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event. Adam Ondra won the men's seasonal title, Chaehyun Seo won the women's seasonal title, and Japan won the national team title.[1]

Winners overview

!Date!Location!Men!Women
July, 4–6 Villars, Switzerland Sascha Lehmann Janja Garnbret
July, 11–13 Chamonix, France Adam Ondra Chaehyun Seo
July, 19–20 Briançon, France Hidemasa Nishida Chaehyun Seo
September, 28–29 Kranj, Slovenia Adam Ondra Chaehyun Seo
October, 18–20 Xiamen, China Adam Ondra Chaehyun Seo
October, 26–27 Inzai, Japan Hiroto Shimizu Jain Kim
OVERALL WINNERS Adam Ondra Chaehyun Seo
NATIONAL TEAM Japan

Overall ranking

The overall ranking is determined based upon points, which athletes are awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event. There are six competitions in the season, but only the best five attempts are counted. The national ranking is the sum of the points of that country's three best male and female athletes. Results displayed in parentheses are not counted.

Men

The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Lead World Cup 2019:[2]

RankNAMEPointsInzaiXiamenKranjBriançonChamonixVillars
1 Adam Ondra300.00(—)1. 100.001. 100.00(—)1. 100.00(—)
2 Alberto Ginés López256.002. 80.005. 51.003. 65.0022. 9.005. 51.0026. (5.00)
3 Sean McColl206.006. 47.0026. (5.00)4. 55.005. 51.007. 43.0021. 10.00
4 Kai Harada195.0025. 6.004. 55.002. 80.00(—)8. 40.0019. 14.00
5 Stefano Ghisolfi190.003. 65.0013. 25.006. 47.0015. 22.0026. (5.00)11. 31.00
6 Hiroto Shimizu180.001. 100.00(—)(—)2. 80.00(—)(—)
7 Kokoro Fujii165.0020. 12.0011. 31.005. 51.00(—)11. 31.008. 40.00
7 Alexander Megos165.00(—)(—)(—)16. 20.002. 80.003. 65.00
9 Sean Bailey158.008. 40.008. 40.0014. 24.006. 47.0024. 7.00(—)
10 Sascha Lehmann152.00(—)(—)(—)13. 26.0013. 26.001. 100.00

Women

The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Lead World Cup 2019:[3]

RankNAMEPointsInzaiXiamenKranjBriançonChamonixVillars
1 Chaehyun Seo480.003. (65.00)1. 100.001. 100.001. 100.001. 100.002. 80.00
2 Janja Garnbret352.002. 80.004. 55.0013. (26.00)2. 80.009. 37.001. 100.00
3 Natsuki Tanii243.006. 47.005. 51.00(—)3. 65.008. 40.008. 40.00
4 Lucka Rakovec226.0016. (20.00)6. 47.003. 65.0014. 24.007. 43.006. 47.00
5 Akiyo Noguchi224.004. 55.002. 80.00(—)(—)10. 34.004. 55.00
6 Ai Mori220.0020. 12.009. 37.005. 51.00(—)4. 55.003. 65.00
7 YueTong Zhang207.00(—)7. 43.00(—)6. 47.002. 80.009. 37.00
8 Jain Kim206.001. 100.003. 65.009. 37.00(—)(—)27. 4.00
9 Mia Krampl189.0022. 9.0024. (7.00)7. 43.004. 55.0011. 31.005. 51.00
10 Jessica Pilz176.00(—)(—)2. 80.00(—)3. 65.0011. 31.00

National Teams

The results of the ten most successful countries of the Lead World Cup 2019:[4]

Country names as used by the IFSC

RankNationPointsInzaiXiamenKranjBriançonChamonixVillars
11695345368306375(220)301
2 Slovenia988(109)112210224139303
3 Republic of Korea758174206137116(106)125
461215110375179104(22)
5 Austria525(47)531439116672
6 Czech Republic48418136146(0)14737
744066(44)6511211186
8 Italy434115909187(29)51
9 Germany381(24)79305113883
10 Great Britain3606862(31)7511045

Villars, Switzerland (July, 4–6)

97 men and 86 women attended the event.

In men's, Switzerland's Sascha Lehmann topped the final route and claimed victory in front of his home crowd. China's YuFei Pan and Germany's Alexander Megos, also topped the final route, placed second and third respectively due to count-backs to the semi-final. Japan's Tomoa Narasaki, who was leading in the semi-final round, stepped on the rope and slipped, taking sixth place.[5] [6]

In women's, Slovenia's Janja Garnbret was the winner of the event. In the semi-final round, Garnbret claimed the only top of the route despite dropping her chalk bag. South Korea's 15-year-old Chaehyun Seo took second place in her first adult World Cup competition. Japan's Ai Mori, also 15 years old, took third place. South Korea's Jain Kim was forced to withdraw from the competition after suffering a finger injury in the qualification round.

MenWomen
RankNameQualificationSemi-FinalFinalRankNameQualificationSemi-FinalFinal
R1R2R1R2
Sascha Lehmann23+TOP36+TOP Janja GarnbretTOPTOPTOP36+
YuFei Pan17+TOP32TOP Chaehyun Seo33+3248+35+
Alexander MegosTOPTOP31+TOP Ai Mori40+32+4735+
4 Domen ŠkoficTOP3736+39+4 Akiyo Noguchi35+31+42+35+
5 Meichi Narasaki32+31+31+39+5 Mia Krampl35+333835+
6 Tomoa Narasaki37+3037+34+6 Lucka Rakovec3130+30+35+
7 Yuki Hada35+3036+227 Julia Chanourdie28+33+3035+
8 Kokoro Fujii35+29+33+88 Natsuki Tanii33+32+39+35

Chamonix, France (July, 11–13)

111 men and 103 women attended the event.

In men's, Czech Republic's Adam Ondra topped both qualification routes, ascended higher than anyone else on the semi-final and final routes, and thus securing the win. Germany's Alexander Megos took second place while Austria's Jakob Schubert took third. Ondra would skip the Briançon's event to prepare for the World Championships.[7] [8]

In women's, the final's bottleneck led to count-backs to semi-final results. Eventually, South Korea's Chaehyun Seo took the win. China's YueTong Zhang placed second and Austria's Jessica Pilz third. The winner of last week's event, Slovenia's Janja Garnbret slipped on the semi-final route, placing 9th, barely missing the final. This was the first time Garnbret ever missed a Lead World Cup final.

MenWomen
RankNameQualificationSemi-FinalFinalRankNameQualificationSemi-FinalFinal
R1R2R1R2
Adam OndraTOPTOP44+47+ Chaehyun SeoTOPTOP5034+
Alexander Megos40+TOP3544 YueTong Zhang36+39+5034+
Jakob Schubert32+TOP36+43+ Jessica Pilz41+26+5034+
4 William Bosi21.5+4038+39+4 Ai Mori35+41+4534+
5 Alberto Ginés López20+TOP42+33+5 Ashima Shiraishi41+36+42+34+
6 Martin Stráník30+41+35+31+6 Molly Thompson-Smith2436+42+26+
7 Sean McColl21.5+36+3625+7 Lucka Rakovec4226+49+25+
8 Kai Harada32+TOP38+228 Natsuki Tanii37+26+52+17+

Briançon, France (July, 19–20)

88 men and 79 women attended the event.

In men's, the Japanese team swept the podium. Hidemasa Nishida claimed the win, Hiroto Shimizu placed second, and Shuta Tanaka placed third. None of them had been on a World Cup podium before.[9] [10]

In women's, last week's winner, South Korea's Chaehyun Seo took the win again. Seo and Slovenian superstar Janja Garnbret topped the final route, but Seo pushed Garnbret to second place by count-back to the semi-final results. Japan's Natsuki Tanii placed third.

MenWomen
RankNameQualificationSemi-FinalFinalRankNameQualificationSemi-FinalFinal
R1R2R1R2
Hidemasa Nishida39+42+31+39+ Chaehyun Seo39+TOPTOPTOP
Hiroto Shimizu40+42+38+38+ Janja Garnbret38+TOP43+TOP
Shuta Tanaka4140+3438+ Natsuki Tanii39+TOP43+41+
4 William Bosi39+4037+384 Mia Krampl3735+4336
5 Sean McColl4043+36+385 Ashima Shiraishi30+35+41+36
6 Sean Bailey40+42+38+34+6 YueTong Zhang31+35+42+33+
7 Domen Škofic40+43+32+34+7 Vita Lukan3035+37.532+
8 Marcello Bombardi40+38+32+34+8 Nina Arthaud22+2637.5+24+

Kranj, Slovenia (September, 28–29)

72 men and 53 women attended the event.

In men's, Czech Republic's Adam Ondra, having just won the Lead World Championships in August, claimed the only top of the final route, securing the win. Japan's Kai Harada took second place and Spain's Alberto Ginés López took third.[11] [12] [13]

In women's, South Korea's Chaehyun Seo continued her winning streak, claiming her third gold medal. Austria's Jessica Pilz took second place and Slovenia's Lucka Rakovec took third. Japan's Ai Mori topped both qualification routes and led the field in the semi-fnal round, but struggled in the final and had to settle for 5th place. Slovenia's Janja Garnbret, having just won the Lead World Championships in August, struggled in the semi-final and placed 13th. This event marked the return of South Korea's Jain Kim to the World Cup circuit after her finger injury. Kim placed 9th, barely missing a spot in the final.

MenWomen
RankNameQualificationSemi-FinalFinalRankNameQualificationSemi-FinalFinal
R1R2R1R2
Adam OndraTOPTOP39+TOP Chaehyun SeoTOP29+3834.5+
Kai HaradaTOPTOP35+32 Jessica PilzTOP29+34+34.5
Alberto Ginés LópezTOPTOP29+31.5+ Lucka Rakovec36+29+38+34+
4 Sean McColl37+3527+30+4 Anak VerhoevenTOP35+34+34+
5 Kokoro FujiiTOPTOP28+27+5 Ai MoriTOPTOP38+20+
6 Stefano GhisolfiTOPTOP30+25+6 Natsumi HiranoTOP27+37+20+
7 Jakob Schubert37+TOP37+12+7 Mia KramplTOP32+34+20+
8 Martin Stráník37+3530+12+8 Mei KotakeTOP2334+20+

Xiamen, China (October, 18–20)

55 men and 51 women attended the event.

In men's, Czech Republic's Adam Ondra claimed his third win, undefeated in the lead events he participated in. Japan's Taisei Homma and Tomoa Narasaki placed second third respectively. Japan's Kai Harada led the semi-final round but fell short in the final round, placing 4th.[14] [15]

In women's, South Korea's Chaehyun Seo topped all the routes of the event, securing her fourth consecutive win and the overall Lead World Champion title. Japan's Akiyo Noguchi claimed second place, while South Korea's Jain Kim claimed third. Slovenia's Janja Garnbret, along with Seo, topped qualification and semi-final routes, but fell trying to jump to the top on the final route, thus finishing in 4th place.

MenWomen
RankNameQualificationSemi-FinalFinalRankNameQualificationSemi-FinalFinal
R1R2R1R2
Adam OndraTOPTOP31+TOP Chaehyun SeoTOPTOPTOPTOP
Taisei Homma37+TOP31+TOP Akiyo Noguchi35+TOP38+TOP
Tomoa Narasaki37TOP31+TOP Jain Kim35+TOP38+TOP
4 Kai HaradaTOPTOP35+31+4 Janja GarnbretTOPTOPTOP37+
5 Alberto Ginés LópezTOPTOP31+29+5 Natsuki Tanii35+TOP33.537+
6 Meichi Narasaki38TOP31+266 Lucka RakovecTOPTOP33+37+
7 Jesse GrupperTOPTOP31+25+7 YueTong Zhang35+TOPTOP34+
8 Sean Bailey37+TOP31+23+8 Ievgeniia Kazbekova35+TOP36+31+
9 Ai MoriTOPTOP33+10+

Inzai, Japan (October, 26–27)

54 men and 52 women attended the event.

In men's, Japan's Hiroto Shimizu claimed the gold medal. Spain's Alberto Ginés López placed second and Italy's Stefano Ghisolfi third. Czech Republic's Adam Ondra, absent from the competition, claimed the lead season's champion title.[16] [17] [18]

In women's, South Korea's veteran Jain Kim topped the final route and secured the win, claiming her 30th gold medal in the World Cup competitions. Slovenia's Janja Garnbret was leading the competition coming into the final, but could not match Kim's top in the final round, thus placed second. South Korea's Chaehyun Seo, the lead season's overall champion, finished in third place.

MenWomen
RankNameQualificationSemi-FinalFinalRankNameQualificationSemi-FinalFinal
R1R2R1R2
Hiroto Shimizu38+38+32+38+ Jain KimTOPTOP33+TOP
Alberto Ginés López34+TOPTOP36+ Janja GarnbretTOPTOP4139
Stefano Ghisolfi38+TOP32+32+ Chaehyun Seo35+35+33+37+
4 Yuki Hada38+TOP31+28+4 Akiyo NoguchiTOPTOP3036+
5 Jesse Grupper31+17+30+28+5 Miho Nonaka35+TOP 28+34+
6 Sean McColl38+2+3427+6 Natsuki TaniiTOP3528+34+
7 Loïc Timmermans30+33+30+22+7 Laura RogoraTOP3628+20
8 Sean Bailey35+31+3419+8 Aika Tajima30+35+2919+
9 Meichi Narasaki31+17+30+19+

Notes and References

  1. Web site: Results. 2021-09-03. www.ifsc-climbing.org.
  2. Web site: IFSC CLIMBING WORLD CUP 2019: M E N LEAD. www.ifsc-climbing.org. 2019-10-28.
  3. Web site: IFSC CLIMBING WORLD CUP 2019: W O M E N LEAD. www.ifsc-climbing.org. 2019-10-28.
  4. Web site: IFSC LEAD WORLD CUP 2019: NATIONAL TEAM RANKING. www.ifsc-climbing.org. 2019-10-28.
  5. Web site: 2019-07-08. Recap and Photo Gallery: IFSC Villars World Cup 2019—Lead and Speed. 2021-09-03. Climbing.
  6. Web site: NEWS: IFSC Lead World Cup Villars 2019 - Report. 2021-09-04. www.ukclimbing.com.
  7. Web site: 2019-07-15. Recap and Photo Gallery: IFSC Chamonix World Cup 2019—Lead and Speed. 2021-09-04. Climbing.
  8. Web site: NEWS: IFSC Lead World Cup Chamonix 2019: Report. 2021-09-04. www.ukclimbing.com.
  9. Web site: 2019-07-22. Recap and Photo Gallery: IFSC Briançon World Cup 2019—Lead. 2021-09-04. Climbing.
  10. Web site: NEWS: IFSC Lead World Cup Briançon 2019: Report. 2021-09-04. www.ukclimbing.com.
  11. Web site: 2019-10-01. Recap and Photo Gallery: IFSC Kranj World Cup 2019—Lead. 2021-09-04. Climbing.
  12. Web site: NEWS: IFSC Lead World Cup 2019: Kranj - Report. 2021-09-04. www.ukclimbing.com.
  13. Web site: Lead Climbing Results From Kranj 2019 - IFSC Climbing World Cup - Climber News. 2021-09-04. www.climbernews.com.
  14. Web site: 2019-10-21. Recap and Photo Gallery: IFSC Xiamen World Cup 2019—Lead and Speed. 2021-09-04. Climbing.
  15. Web site: NEWS: IFSC Lead and Speed World Cup 2019: Xiamen - Report. 2021-09-04. www.ukclimbing.com.
  16. Web site: 2019-10-28. Recap and Photo Gallery: IFSC Inzai World Cup 2019—Lead. 2021-09-04. Climbing.
  17. Web site: NEWS: IFSC Lead World Cup Inzai 2019: Report. 2021-09-04. www.ukclimbing.com.
  18. Web site: 2019-10-27. A Legendary Showing at Inzai World Cup 2019. 2021-09-04. Gripped Magazine.

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