The Lairig Ghru (Gaelic; Scottish Gaelic: Làirig Dhrù) is one of the mountain passes through the Cairngorms of Scotland. The route and mountain pass partially lies on the Mar Lodge Estate.
Like many traditional routes, the ends of the route through the Lairig Ghru are like the ends of a frayed rope. From the south the Lairig Ghru can be approached from Braemar through Glen Lui, or Glen Dee, and from Blair Atholl through Glen Tilt. From the north the Lairig Ghru can be approached from Glenmore through the Chalamain Gap, and from Aviemore through the Rothiemurchus Forest by way of the Crossroads above Allt Drùidh.
Watson gives the place name "Làirig Dhrù", meaning pass of Dhru or Druie, with the local pronunciation "Laarig Groo". He suggests the "probable" derivation as from Drùdhadh meaning oozing.[1] Any visitor to the summit of the Lairig Ghru would accept that as a possible derivation because two watercourses, one on each side of the summit, appear to "ooze" from the valley floor.
However, Gordon is much less certain about the derivation of the name, writing:
The weight of suggestion is - therefore - that Lairig Ghru is certainly the hill pass (of something) and that something is probably related to the water flowing from the floor of the valley close to the summit.[2]
Many Gaelic place names have lost their original spelling and meaning through translation into English. The prolific and late Dundonian mountaineer, Syd Scroggie felt that the name Lairig Ghru was such a case and suggested that the Lairig Ghru was the Lairig Ruadh (Red Pass).[3] This fits with the original name of the mountain range, "Am Monadh Ruadh" (The Red Mountains).
Historically the Lairig Ghru has been used simply as a route between Deeside and Strathspey. It is often referred to as a Drove Road, and while it's not wrong to do so, arguably that over-emphasises one specific use. The Lairig Ghru has been a route used by many different people, for many different purposes as made clear in Haldane (1952), and was in regular use long before the height of the droving trade in the more peaceful times after the middle of the 18th century:
The Lairig Ghru was used as a droving-route as late as 1873 - Haldane (1952) - to Braemar and farther south. Until approximately the 1870s men from Rothiemurchus annually, in the spring, cleared the track of rocks that had fallen on to it during the winter.
Modern road traffic now travels over the Pass of Drumochter via the A9 or The Lecht on the A939, and the Lairig Ghru is left to walkers.
The full route from Aviemore to Braemar is about 43km (27miles), though many walkers cut the walk short by starting or finishing at Linn of Dee. The 8km (05miles) from there to Braemar is along a tarmac road.
Although the Lairig Ghru has long been used by travellers to get between Strathspey and Deeside, it has also been used recreationally since at least the early twentieth century. Anderson (1911) writes:
An even earlier recreational mention is a report on the snow conditions in the Lairig Ghru by C. G. Cash in April 1901:
This snow report by C. G. Cash implies a familiarity with the Lairig Ghru, both his own, and his readers.
There are many waypoints and features in the Lairig Ghru which, because of map scale, do not appear on the old 1-inch, nor 1:50,000 scale maps. Others only exist in older-books Gordon (1925), Watson (1975) - for example - because the authors, acquainted with local-people and local-traditions, have described these features and recorded their names.
There is no objective measure of where the ends of the Lairig Ghru are. 'Gordon defines "Lairig" as a "Hill Pass".[4] In that case, the landscape is arguably too open for the "ends" of the Lairig's track to extend much beyond the imaginary lines drawn between the summits of Carn a' Mhaim and The Devil's Point at the southern end - and Carn Eilrig and Castle Hill at the northern end.
From the south, the two main approaches to the Lairig Ghru follow the Glen Lui Route or the Glen Dee Route. These two routes come together soon after crossing the imaginary line between Carn a' Mhaim and The Devil's Point creating the first waypoint. Soon after this coming together, the track splits again with the left-hand (roughly NW) branch leading to the Cairngorm Club footbridge across the River Dee towards Corrour Bothy and the mountains to the west of the Lairig Ghru.
See main article: Corrour Bothy. Corrour Bothy is a simple stone building below Coire Odhar, which lies between The Devil's Point and Cairn Toul on the western side of the river. It is now used as a mountain refuge and maintained by the Mountain Bothies Association. The single room has a fireplace and chimney in its northern gable, there is also an outer composting toilet facility in its own room had recently been installed.
Literally "stone of the tailors" (Watson (1975)) is a large ribbed stone by the side of the Lairig Ghru track close to where the Allt Coire an t-Saighdeir joins the river.
Gordon describes how this stone got its name, writing:
All the rain that falls on the slopes at either side of the southern half of the Lairig Ghru eventually drains into the River Dee, and the "official" source of the River Dee, the Wells of Dee, is high on Braeriach. However the River Dee (as a named watercourse on maps) starts at the confluence of Allt a' Gharbh choirie and Allt na Lairig Ghru. At this point, near the head of Glen Dee, the main valley turns roughly west towards An Garbh Choire, and the Lairig Ghru track continues northward into the hanging valley as shown in the photograph.
Only shown on the 1:25,000 scale maps, The Duke's Path is a made-path on the western side of the Lairig Ghru, following the course of the burn draining Coire Ruadh and leading to the bealach between Braeriach and Sron na Lairige.
During the nineteenth century, what was then the Mar Estate (see Mar Lodge Estate), was a private hunting estate owned by the Duke of Fife (created Duke in 1889, and dying in 1912). In Gordon (1925) the author describes using this path on an ascent of Braeriach, continuing:
The Lairig Ghru track winds around a series of pools on the Mar side of the summit. These are thought by many (incorrectly) to be the source of the River Dee. Watson (1975) explains that the Pools of Dee are an invention rather than a pure Anglicisation of the old name Lochan Dubh na Lairige (black tarn of the Lairig). At least one of these pools is reputed to contain trout in spite of these pools having no obvious outflow, nor inflow.
Slightly to the south of the largest pool, the burn named Allt na Lairig Ghru flows from the floor of the valley flowing south to join with the burn named Allt a' Gharbh choirie to create the River Dee proper.
The March Burn is a burn on the Mar side of the summit, draining the eastern-slope above it and disappearing below the rocks before it reaches the floor of the valley. Gordon (1925) describes it as falling in a white spray to the Lairig from the northern spur of Ben Mac Dhui.
"March has nothing to do with the month of the year, but refers to the old use of the word meaning boundary. The summit of the Lairig Ghru marks the boundary between Deeside (Aberdeenshire) and Strathspey (Inverness-shire). Watson (1975) gives the old name of Allt na Criche (the burn of the boundary), giving the local pronunciation as Creech."
Watson gives the summit height as about,[5] and the Cairngorm Tourist Map (1975) gives a spot-height of 2,733 feet.
A bothy was built in 1957 by members of the Edinburgh University OTC as a memorial to Dr William Angus Sinclair FRSE, who died on Cairn Gorm on 21 December 1954. The refuge was located near the cross-roads where the tracks from Sron na Lairige and the Chalamain Gap cross the Lairig Ghru. Like many other man-made shelters in the mountains of Scotland that were very accessible from public roads, it was demolished and removed in about 1991.
This boulder-strewn ravine is used as a route between the Lairig Ghru and Glen More. The name "Chalamain Gap" has been applied relatively recently to this ravine, since in Alexander (1928) the author does not name the gap, but describes it - writing:
Watson does not name the ravine "Chalamain Gap" either, but refers to it as the location of the Sinclair Hut: More recently, Diack (2006) gives the name as Eag Coire na Comhdhalack .