La Grenouille (restaurant) explained

La Grenouille
Established:[1]
Current-Owner:Philippe Masson
Previous-Owner:The Massons, Charles Sr. and Gisèle
Head-Chef:Philippe Masson
Food-Type:French
Dress-Code:Jacket required
Street-Address:3 East 52nd Street
City:New York
State:New York
Postcode:10022
Country:United States
Coordinates:40.7596°N -73.9756°W
Other-Label:-->
Website:https://www.la-grenouille.com/

La Grenouille (French for "The Frog") is a French restaurant at 3 East 52nd Street between Fifth Avenue and Madison Avenue in Midtown Manhattan, New York City.[1] [2] Founded in 1962 by former Henri Soulé apprentice Charles Masson Sr. and his wife Gisèle, later with sons Philippe and Charles, La Grenouille became a location of choice among New York, U.S., and eventually international diners, including designers from the nearby Garment District of Manhattan.[3] It is the last operating New York French haute cuisine restaurant from the 1960s, and remains a highly rated restaurant. Staff at La Grenouille are represented by UNITE HERE Local 100.[4]

History

The building at 3 East 52nd Street dates back to 1871.[5] La Grenouille, the restaurant that now occupies the building, was founded in 1962 by Charles Masson Sr., a former Henri Soulé apprentice,[6] and his wife Gisèle.[7] Charles Masson Sr. had worked under Henri Soulé in Soule's original Le Pavillon restaurant at the 1939 World's Fair.

After the death of Charles Sr. in 1975,[7] Gisèle continued to manage the restaurant until 2010. Their eldest son, Charles Jr., assisted Gisèle with her management duties from 1975 until 1994. At that time, Gisèle's younger son Philippe took over Charles Jr's duties until 2000, whereupon Charles Jr. returned. Gisèle died on November 5, 2014.[8] After her death, Charles Jr. stepped down as manager in 2014 amidst a dispute with his brother.[9] [8] [10]

La Grenouille is currently operated by Philippe Masson, and has been since 2014. It is the last operating New York French haute cuisine restaurant from the 1960s,[11] having outlasted other well-known French restaurants like Lutèce, which closed in 2004.

In 2014, Charles Masson Jr. stepped down from his longtime role as general manager amid a bitter, longstanding dispute with his younger brother Philippe, who then took over direction of the restaurant.[12] [9] [8] [10] In 2021, the dispute between the brothers even led to fears that La Grenouille might close.[13] [14]

In June 2023, the restaurant was closed by Con Ed personnel when new gas meter detected a gas leak. The restaurant reopened on November 3, 2023.[15]

Antoine de Saint-Exupéry and Le Petit Prince

Earlier in the 20th century, before La Grenouille occupied the building of 3 East 52nd Street, the French painter Bernard LaMotte has his studio in the upper floors. An informal salon of creative people visited him, including Charlie Chaplin, Marlene Dietrich, Jean Gabin, and the writer and aviator Antoine de Saint-Exupéry, who wrote a good deal of Le Petit Prince there.[7] In 2000, La Section Americaine du Souvenir Francais, put up a plaque outside the restaurant, memorializing the aviator and writer Antoine de Saint-Exupery, who often visited the building while in exile from German-occupied France during World War II.

Menu

The menu of La Grenouille is essentially entirely "haute French cuisine,"[1] [16] with menus presenting the French names of classic and more modern dishes, followed by the English translation, and an English description.[17] Classic dinner menu staples include quenelles de brochet, sole grillée (grilled sole), sautéed frog legs, and the chocolate and Grand Marnier soufflés for dessert.[18] [16] As of June 2023, the three-course prix-fixe "main seating" menu was $185 per person and the two-course prix-fixe main seating menu was $155 per person. There is also a "Late Night Jazz Menu" and a take-out menu.[18]

Renown

Aside from its haute French cuisine, La Grenouille is notable for its clientele, and is considered a location of choice among New York, U.S., and international diners.[2] A segment of this clientele includes designers from the nearby New York fashion district;[2] it has been spoken of as a hotspot for its notables, e.g. Elle magazine creative director Joe Zee.[19] Throughout its history, La Grenouille's patrons and visitors have included Salvador Dalí,[7] Carolina Herrera,[16] Pauline Trigère,[3] former New York City Mayor Michael Bloomberg, Woody Allen and more.

In addition, the restaurant is famous for its lavish floral arrangements and romantic lighting,[7] a tradition started by Charles Masson Sr. and continued by his sons Charles Jr.[20] [16] and Philippe Masson. In 2008, Charles Jr. recounted for Vanity Fair magazine the story of his father painting individual lightbulbs with peach-colored paint to achieve the desired lighting effect, until G.E. started producing a similar bulb.[16] When G.E. eventually discontinued the bulb in 1974, a crisis was averted when the Massons were able to custom order 50,000 similar lightbulbs from Westinghouse.[16]

In 1972 W magazine referred to it one of "Les Six, the last bastions of grand luxe dining in New York." The other five were Lutèce, La Caravelle, La Côte Basque, Lafayette, and Quo Vadis.[21] [16] La Grenouille is the last operating New York French haute cuisine restaurant from the 1960s, a time when it dominated New York City's French haute cuisine.[22]

In 2012, the restaurant won the James Beard Foundation Award for Outstanding Service.[23]

References

  1. Web site: Zagat. 2015. New York City, Rating and Reviews: La Grenouille. April 28, 2015. Still 'extraordinaire' after 'so many years', this Midtown 'institution' leaves 'all your senses satisfied' with 'superb' haute French cuisine, 'pampering' service and a 'soigné' setting festooned with 'soaring floral arrangements'; jackets and deep pockets are de rigueur here, but it’s 'well worth the splurge' for a 'memorable' meal at what is surely the 'last of its breed'; P.S. the departure of its beloved front-of-house leader, Charles Masson, has loyalists waiting to see what happens next..
  2. Web site: History. La Grenouille.
  3. News: Pauline Trigère, Exemplar of American Style, Dies at 93. Enid. Nemy. February 14, 2002. The New York Times.
  4. Web site: Eat Union – UNITE HERE Local 100 .
  5. News: Gray . Christopher . 2001-04-22 . Streetscapes/3 East 52nd Street; An 1871 Building With a Plaque Honoring a Visitor . en-US . The New York Times . 2023-06-29 . 0362-4331.
  6. News: Charles Masson, Owner Of La Grenouille, Is Dead. Lawrence . Van Gelder. February 6, 1975. The New York Times.
  7. McGrath . Douglas . 2008-08-07 . An Immovable Feast . 2023-06-29 . Vanity Fair . en-US.
  8. News: Weber . Bruce . 2014-11-14 . Gisèle Masson Dies at 89; Fed the Famous at La Grenouille . en-US . The New York Times . 2023-06-29 . 0362-4331.
  9. Web site: Robinson . Whitney . 2016-09-06 . Two French Brothers Duke It Out in New York's Fine Dining Scene . 2023-06-29 . Town & Country . en-US.
  10. News: Fabricant . Florence . Moskin . Julia . 2014-03-26 . From France to Midtown, a Rift Rocks La Grenouille . en-US . The New York Times . 2023-06-29 . 0362-4331.
  11. Web site: La Grenouille - Restaurants in Midtown East, New York. Time Out New York.
  12. News: Krishna . Priya . 2021-11-01 . Live at La Grenouille: Caviar, Crystal and the Owner's Flashy Crooning . en-US . The New York Times . 2023-06-29 . 0362-4331.
  13. Web site: Ong . Bao . 2021-08-23 . One of NYC's Most Iconic French Restaurants May Shutter Amid Family Feud . 2023-06-29 . Eater NY . en.
  14. News: Boniello . Kathianne . 2021-08-21 . NYC hot spot La Grenouille may shutter amid brothers' battle . New York Post . 2023-06-29 . en-US.
  15. Web site: Cuozzo . Steve . 2023-11-05 . Famed NYC French restaurant La Grenouille reopens after gas leak . New York Post . 2023-11-06 . en-US.
  16. Web site: Martin . Brett . 2012-01-05 . La Grenouille Turns 50 . 2023-06-30 . Bon Appétit . en-US.
  17. Web site: La Grenouille Menu. 2015. New York Magazine. 2015-04-28 . dead . https://web.archive.org/web/20150409054023/http://nymag.com/listings/restaurant/la-grenouille/menus/main.html . April 9, 2015 . mdy-all .
  18. Web site: Menu . 2023-06-30 . La Grenouille . en.
  19. Web site: Alexandra. Vallis. Elle Creative Director Joe Zee Styles Julia Roberts, Loves Roadside Burritos and Setagaya. Grub Street. March 20, 2009. April 28, 2015.
  20. Book: Masson, Charles . The Flowers of La Grenouille . 1994 . Crown Publishing Group . 978-0-517-59057-7 . en.
  21. Colatello. Bob. January 30, 2012. Here's to the Ladies Who Lunched!. Vanity Fair. February 19, 2016.
  22. Mimi. Sheraton. The Frog at Forty-Five. The New Yorker. December 24, 2007. April 28, 2015. subscription.
  23. News: Chou . Jessica . The James Beard Foundation Award Winners for 2012 . February 12, 2019 . The Daily Meal . May 8, 2013.

Further reading