Kering Explained

Former Name:Pinault S.A.
Pinault-Printemps-Redoute
PPR
Type:Public (Société Anonyme)
Traded As:
CAC 40 Component
Hq Location:40 rue de Sèvres, Paris 7e, France
Founder:François Pinault
Key People:François-Henri Pinault
(Chairman and CEO)
Industry:Luxury
Products:Luxury goods
Revenue:€19.6 billion (2023)
Operating Income:€4.7 billion (2023)
Net Income:€3.0 billion (2023)
Assets:€41.367 billion (2023)
Equity:€41.367 billion (2023)
Num Employees:49,000 (2023)
Footnotes:[1]

Kering (in French kɛːʁiŋ/) is a French-based multinational corporation specializing in luxury goods. It owns the brands Gucci, Balenciaga, Bottega Veneta, Yves Saint Laurent, Creed and Alexander McQueen.

The timber-trading company Pinault S.A. was founded in 1962, by François Pinault. After the company was quoted on Euronext Paris in 1988, it became the retail conglomerate Pinault-Printemps-Redoute (PPR) in 1994, and the luxury group Kering in 2013. The group has been a constituent of the CAC 40 since 1995. François-Henri Pinault has been president and CEO of Kering since 2005. In 2023, the group's revenue reached €19.6 billion.

History

Timber (1962-1988)

See main article: article and François Pinault. In 1962, François Pinault opened the Établissements Pinault in Brittany (France) specialized in timber trading with a 100,000 francs loan from the bank. His business grew rapidly by acquiring many failing local timber operations and building its own import bridges, turning Pinault S.A. into a leading timber trader in France in the 1980s. By 1988, the group owned 180 companies and 33 factories for an annual revenue of 10 billion francs.[2]

Retail (1988-2013)

In 1988, Pinault S.A. was listed on the Paris Stock Exchange.[3] In 1989, Pinault S.A. purchased 20% of CFAO, a French distribution conglomerate active throughout Africa. In 1990, Pinault S.A. and CFAO merged, and François Pinault became head of the newly formed group which acquired Conforama (French furniture retailer) in 1991, Printemps (department stores in France) in 1992, which also owned 54% of La Redoute (French mail-order shopping retailer), and Fnac (French bookstore, multimedia and electronics retailer) in 1994. The group was renamed Pinault-Printemps-Redoute in 1994.

In 1999, Pinault-Printemps-Redoute purchased a controlling 42% stake of the Gucci group for $3 billion and 100% of Yves Saint Laurent.[4] [5] [6] Through Gucci, Pinault-Printemps-Redoute acquired Boucheron in 2000,[7] Bottega Veneta in 2001,[8] Balenciaga in 2001,[9] and signed partnerships with Alexander McQueen[10] and Stella McCartney.[11] In 2003, François-Henri Pinault, son of the founder François Pinault, became general manager of Artémis, the family holding company that controlled Pinault-Printemps-Redoute. In 2005, he was named president and CEO of Pinault-Printemps-Redoute,[12] a year after the group had reached a 99.4% ownership of Gucci.[13] The group continued acquiring luxury brands: Sowind Group (watch company owner of Girard-Perregaux)[14] and Brioni (Italian tailor) in 2011,[15] Pomellato Group (jewelry company owner of Pomellato and Dodo)[16] and Qeelin (jewelry) in 2012,[17] Christopher Kane (British fashion house)[18] and Richard Ginori (porcelain) in 2013, Ulysse Nardin (watches) in 2014.[19] The group also sold its retail assets: Le Printemps in 2006,[20] Conforama in 2011,[21] CFAO in 2012,[22] Fnac in 2012, and La Redoute in 2013.[23] PPR developed a Sport & Lifestyle portfolio with the acquisition of Puma in 2007, Cobra Golf in 2010,[24] and Volcom in 2011,[25] all of which were sold the following decade.[26]

Luxury (since 2013)

In March 2013, PPR changed its name to Kering.[27] The leather-weaver Bottega Veneta was transformed into a "quiet luxury" icon, hitting the billion-dollar mark in sales in 2012.[28] In 2014, Kering created its own eyewear production arm, Kering Eyewear, growing its revenue to 1.5 billion euros in 2023, and acquired the eyewear brands Lindberg in 2021[29] and Maui Jim in 2022.[30] The traditional Balenciaga house was turned into a disruptive fashion house[31] and Yves Saint Laurent hit the 2-billion dollar sales mark in 2019.[32] However, from 2015 to 2022, the group's revenue was essentially driven by Gucci's year-on-year high performance, hitting the 10-billion dollars sales mark in 2022.[33] The group divested its interests in Stella McCartney in 2018,[34] Christopher Kane in 2019,[35] and its entire watch division (Girard-Perregaux and Ulysse Nardin) in 2022.[36]

In 2023, Kering's annual results declined to 19.6 billion (-4%), mainly caused by the deceleration of Gucci's streak, a transition phase according to the group's executives.[37] That same year, Kering Beauté was launched to manage in-house the development of beauty products for the group's brands.[38]

Activities

Kering's headquarters are located in the former Hopital Laennec in the 7th arrondissement of Paris. The parent holding company of Kering is Groupe Artémis. In 2023, Kering made 19.6 billion euros in revenue. The group has 46,000 employees and 1,381 stores.[1]

Kering fully or partially owns the following brands:

BrandAcquisition YearCountry
Gucci1999Italy
Yves Saint Laurent1999France
Boucheron2000France
Bottega Veneta2001Italy
Balenciaga2001Spain
Alexander McQueen2001UK
Brioni2011Italy
Qeelin2012China
Pomellato2012Italy
Dodo2012Italy
Ginori 1735(formerly Richard Ginori)2013[39] Italy
Lindberg2021Denmark
Maui Jim2022United States
Creed2023[40] UK/France
Valentino (30%)2023[41] Italy
Kering also owns Kering Eyewear (luxury eyewear production arm)[42] and Kering Beauté (cosmetics division).

Governance

François-Henri Pinault is the chairman of the board of Kering.

Financial data

Results (in € millions)!Year! 2006! 2007! 2008! 2009! 2010! 2011! 2012! 2013! 2014! 2015! 2016! 2017! 2018! 2019! 2020! 2023
Sales17 93117 76120 20116 52511 00812 2279 7369 74810 03711 58412 38515 47813 665.215 883.313 100.219 566
EBITDA1 5402 0962 1401 7901 6491 9112 0671 7501 6471 8862 9483 943.84 778.34 574.2
Net results6801 0589249859659861 04850528.96968141 7863 714.93 211.51 972.22 983
Net debt3 4616 1215 5104 3674 0003 3952 4913 4434 6794 3713 049

Commitments

The Kering Foundation was created in 2008 to combat violence against women. Kering was one of the first companies to endorse the Women's Empowerment Principles of the UN Women.[43] Starting in 2019, the Kering Foundation developed actions to combat violence against children, making it a pillar of its operations in 2023.[44]

In 2015, Kering became an official partner of the Cannes Film Festival and launched the diversity program Women in Motion[45] which was extended to the Rencontres d'Arles photography festival[46] and the Tokyo Film Festival in 2019.[47]

In 2015, the group released the environmental profit and loss account (EP&L).[48] Kering launched the Regenerative Fund for Nature in 2021 to finance the transition to regenerative farming practices[49] and the Climate Fund for Nature in 2022 to finance nature conservation and restoration initiatives.[50]

In May 2024, Kering partenered with the National University of Singapore to create, via the entity's Center for Governance and Sustainability, a tool for measuring the environmental impact of companies in the Asia-Pacific region. This collaboration seeks to establish a benchmark for measuring the impact of the green strategies of major Asia-Pacific companies.[51]

Social entrepreneurs sponsorship

Each year, three social entrepreneurs are selected for the economic viability and the social added value of their projects in favor of women, their families and communities. Each selected project proposer is awarded 15 000 euros, and also receives personal and business sponsoring as well as guidance from a Kering staff member.

Awards

See also

References

  1. https://www.globenewswire.com/news-release/2024/02/08/2825702/0/en/Kering-Press-release-2023-Annual-Results.html 2023 Annual results
  2. Web site: 1988-05-21 . François Pinault et sa stratégie d'entreprise : toujours se démarquer . 2024-07-02 . mediaclip . fr.
  3. News: From timber merchant to corporate axeman. Guardian Staff. 1999-04-03. The Guardian. 2019-08-25. en-GB. 0261-3077.
  4. Web site: Gucci Group Agrees to Sell 40% Stake to French Retailer. Los Angeles Times. 20 March 1999. 24 July 2017.
  5. Web site: Gucci to Buy Parent Of Yves Saint Laurent. Washingtonpost.com. 16 November 1999. Sri Ramakrishnan. 24 July 2017.
  6. Web site: Gucci fades on court ruling. Cnn.com. 27 May 1999. 24 July 2017.
  7. Web site: 2000-05-24 . GUCCI BUYS AGAIN: DEAL FOR BOUCHERON BOOSTS JEWELRY UNIT . 2024-05-01 . WWD . en-US.
  8. Web site: 2001-02-08 . GUCCI STRIKES AGAIN: BUYS MAJORITY SHARE OF BOTTEGA VENETA . 2024-05-01 . WWD . en-US.
  9. News: Finch . Julia . 2001-07-07 . Gucci liked the designer so much it bought Balenciaga . 2024-05-01 . The Guardian . en-GB . 0261-3077.
  10. News: Bellafante . Ginia . 2000-12-05 . Gucci secures a deal with Alexander McQueen . 2024-05-01 . The New York Times . en-US . 0362-4331.
  11. Book: McNeil . Peter . Riello . Giorgio . 19 May 2016 . Luxury: A Rich History . Oxford University Press . 9780191640278. 256.
  12. News: Joshua Levine . 15 February 2013 . The Man Behind the Curtain . 24 July 2017 . The New York Times.
  13. Web site: Suzanne Kapner . 23 March 2004 . PPR moves to buy last 30% of Gucci Group . 24 July 2017 . Nypost.com.
  14. News: 2011-07-05 . PPR becomes majority shareholder of Sowind Group . 2024-07-02 . Reuters.
  15. Web site: PPR Buys Menswear Brand Brioni. Wsj.com. 8 November 2011. Christina Passariello. 24 December 2013.
  16. Web site: Kering Acquires Pomellato. Wwd.com. 24 April 2013. Luisa Zargani, Miles Socha. 24 July 2017.
  17. Web site: PPR acquires majority stake in Chinese Qeelin. Fashiounited.com. 9 December 2012. 24 July 2017.
  18. Web site: Ella Alexander . 15 January 2013 . PPR Buys Majority Stake In Christopher Kane . 24 July 2017 . Vogue.co.uk.
  19. Web site: Kering (Previously PPR, Gucci Group) Acquires Ulysse Nardin. Forbes.com. 30 July 2014. Elizabeth Doerr. 24 July 2017.
  20. News: As sales fall, PPR works to unload Printemps. The New York Times. 20 June 2006. Sara Gay Forden, Jacqueline Simmons. 24 July 2017.
  21. Web site: PPR Looks to Sell Conforama . . https://web.archive.org/web/20220611063509/https://www.wsj.com/articles/SB10001424052748703766704576008672183381168 . 2022-06-11 . live .
  22. Web site: Toyota Tsusho to buy PPR stake in CFAO . . https://web.archive.org/web/20220611063508/https://www.reuters.com/article/us-toyota-ppr/toyota-tsusho-to-buy-ppr-stake-in-cfao-idUSBRE86P09F20120726 . 2022-06-11 . live .
  23. https://www.reuters.com/article/us-ppr-agm/ppr-says-in-talks-to-sell-la-redoute-by-year-end-idUSBRE95H0Q420130618 PPR says in talks to sell La Redoute by year-end
  24. Web site: Puma acquires Cobra Golf and announces becoming Cobra-Puma Golf. Worldgolf.com. 10 May 2010. 24 July 2017.
  25. Web site: PPR to Buy Volcom, a Sportswear Maker. The New York Times. 2 May 2011. Chris V. Nicholson. 24 July 2017.
  26. Web site: Beth Wright . 16 May 2018 . Kering officially spins off Puma . dead . https://web.archive.org/web/20191113121303/https://www.just-style.com/news/kering-officially-spins-off-puma_id133534.aspx . 13 November 2019 . 19 June 2018 . Just-style.com.
  27. Web site: Jolly . David . 22 March 2013 . PPR to Show Breton Roots With Rebranding as Kering . 22 November 2023 . The New York Times.
  28. Web site: Zargani . Luisa . 2013-02-22 . Sales, Profits Up at Bottega Veneta in 2012 . 2024-07-02 . WWD . en-US.
  29. Web site: Mira . Nicola . July 9, 2021 . Kering Eyewear buys 100% stake in Danish brand Lindberg . 2021-09-30 . FashionNetwork.com . en-WW.
  30. Web site: 2022-03-14 . Kering Eyewear acquires Hawaiian eyewear brand Maui Jim . 2022-03-14 . The Moodie Davitt Report . en-GB.
  31. Web site: Jess Cartner-Morley . 2 October 2016 . Demna Gvasalia reinvigorates Balenciaga with strategic disrespect . 24 July 2017 . Theguardian.com.
  32. Web site: Guyot . Olivier . 17 February 2020 . Saint Laurent franchit la barre des 2 milliards d'euros . 2024-07-02 . FashionNetwork.com . fr.
  33. News: Garnier . Juliette . 2023-09-22 . After undergoing intense reinvention, Gucci searches hard for a second coming . 2024-07-02 . Le Monde.fr . en.
  34. Web site: Ben Stevens . 29 March 2018 . Kering offloads entire stake in Stella McCartney . 19 June 2018 . Retailgazette.co.uk.
  35. Web site: Agnew . Harriet . 2018-06-21 . Christopher Kane in talks to buy back brand from Kering . 2024-07-02 . www.ft.com.
  36. Sudip Kar-Gupta, Mimosa Spencer and Silke Koltrowitz, Luxury goods group Kering to sell watches division, Reuters.com, 24 January 2022
  37. Web site: Danziger . Pamela N. . Trouble In The House Of Gucci: Kering Struggles To Revive The Brand’s Sparkle . 2024-05-01 . Forbes . en.
  38. Web site: Guilbault . Laure . 2023-02-03 . Kering enters beauty with new entity led by former Estée Lauder exec . 2024-05-01 . Vogue Business . en-US.
  39. News: 2013-04-05 . Gucci offers to buy Richard Ginori porcelain maker for 13 million euros . 2024-05-01 . Reuters.
  40. Web site: Bossi . Andrea . 2023-06-26 . Kering Makes First Major Beauty Acquisition . 2023-11-22 . Fashionista . en.
  41. News: 28 July 2023 . Kering acquisisce il 30% di Valentino per 1,7 miliardi di euro . 28 July 2023 . ilsole24ore.com . ilsole24ore.com.
  42. Web site: Gilles . Florent . 2013-11-18 . Former Safilo CEO Roberto Vedovotto joins Kering . 2022-10-25 . FashionNetwork.com . en-WW.
  43. Web site: Wynne . Alex . 2016-03-03 . Kering Partners With UN Women . 2024-05-01 . WWD . en-US.
  44. Web site: Diderich . Joelle . 2023-09-20 . Kering Foundation Expands Remit to Combat Violence Against Children . 2024-05-01 . WWD . en-US.
  45. Web site: Keslassy . Elsa . 2015-03-30 . Cannes Film Fest, Kering Launch Women in Motion . 2024-05-21 . Variety . en-US.
  46. Web site: Diderich . Joelle . 2019-03-13 . Kering Partners With Rencontres d’Arles Photography Festival . 2024-07-02 . WWD . en-US.
  47. Web site: Frater . Patrick . 2019-10-23 . Kering and Tokyo Festival Bring ‘Women in Motion’ Talk Series to Japan . 2024-06-08 . Variety . en-US.
  48. News: Abnett . Kate . 2016-05-03 . Kering Goes Public with Sustainability Report, Revealing Progress and Pain Points . 2024-07-23 . Business of Fashion.
  49. Web site: Kering launches a new regenerative fund to support leather, cotton, wool and cashmere farmers . 2024-05-01 . World Business Council for Sustainable Development (WBCSD) . en-GB.
  50. Web site: 2022-12-12 . Kering, L’Occitane Group Launch €300 Million Nature Fund . 2024-05-01 . The Business of Fashion . en.
  51. Web site: Kering s'engage dans la transition écologique en Asie-Pacifique. . 15 May 2024 . Journal du Luxe.
  52. Web site: The CNMI Sustainable Fashion Awards 2023 . 23 April 2024 . Ellen MacArthur Foundation.
  53. Web site: Milan’s Sustainable Fashion Awards Take Centre Stage At La Scala . 23 April 2024 . Vogue.