Jugging Explained

Jugging is the process of stewing whole animals, mainly game or fish, for an extended period in a tightly covered container such as a casserole or an earthenware jug.In France a similar stew of a game animal (historically thickened with the animal's blood) is known as a .[1] [2] [3]

Jugged hare

One common traditional dish that involves jugging is jugged hare (a similar stew is known as French: civet de lièvre in France), which is a whole hare, cut into pieces, marinated and cooked with red wine and juniper berries in a tall jug that stands in a pan of water. It is traditionally served with the hare's blood (or the blood is added right at the very end of the cooking process) and port wine.[4] [5] [6] [7]

Jugged hare is described in the influential 18th-century cookbook The Art of Cookery, by Hannah Glasse.[8] Beginning in the nineteenth century, Glasse has been widely credited with having started the recipe with the words "First, catch your hare". This attribution is apocryphal. Her actual directions are, "Take your Hare when it is cas'd, and make a pudding ..." To 'case' means to take off the skin [not "to catch"]. Both the Oxford English Dictionary and The Dictionary of National Biography discuss the attribution.[9]

However, having a freshly caught, or shot, hare enables one to obtain its blood. A freshly killed hare is prepared for jugging by removing its entrails and then hanging it in a larder by its hind legs, which causes the blood to accumulate in the chest cavity. One method of preserving the blood after draining it from the hare (since the hare itself is usually hung for a week or more) is to mix it with red wine vinegar in order to prevent it coagulating, and then to store it in a freezer.[10] [11]

Many other British cookbooks from before the middle of the 20th century have recipes for jugged hare. Merle and Reitch[12] have this to say about jugged hare, for example:

In 2006, a survey of 2021 people for the television channel UKTV Food found that only 1.6% of the people aged under 25 recognized jugged hare by name. 7 out of 10 of those people stated that they would refuse to eat jugged hare if it were served at the house of a friend or a relative.[13] [14]

Civet de lapin

Civet de lapin (rabbit stew) is an alternative to civet de lièvre. It is considered a speciality of the cuisine of Martinique.[15] [16]

Jugged kippers

Another jugged dish, also traditional in the United Kingdom, is jugged kippers, which is kippers (with the heads and tails removed) in a covered jug, cooked in boiling water. Recipe books recommend jugging kippers as one way of avoiding the strong smell that kippers have.[17] [18]

See also

Further reading

Notes and References

  1. Web site: jugged. Kitchen & Cooking Tips. James T. Ehler. FoodReference.com.
  2. Web site: French - English food glossary. At Home With Patricia Wells. Patricia Wells, Ltd.. dead. https://web.archive.org/web/20061213111403/http://www.patriciawells.com/glossary/atoz/c.htm. 2006-12-13.
  3. Book: 118 - 119. Looking for Flavour. Barbara Santich. Wakefield Press. 1996. 9781862543850.
  4. Web site: A Glossary of Cookery and Other Terms . https://web.archive.org/web/20030708062310/http://www.kal69.dial.pipex.com/shop/pages/glossj.htm . dead . 2003-07-08 . Tom Jaine . The History of English Cookery . Prospect Books .
  5. News: Chips are down for Britain's old culinary classics . . 2006-07-25. 6 .
  6. Web site: Jugged. The Great British Kitchen. The British Food Trust.
  7. Web site: Recipes: Game: Jugged Hare. The Great British Kitchen. The British Food Trust.
  8. Glasse, Hannah. The Art of Cookery, Made Plain and Easy. London, 1747; p. 50
  9. Web site: Mayes . Ian . Splitting Hares . The Guardian . 24 March 2015 . 3 June 2000.
  10. Web site: HARES, Brown, Blue or White . Bill Deans . dead . https://web.archive.org/web/20070930031415/http://website.lineone.net/~bill.deans/hare.htm . 2007-09-30 .
  11. Mother Earth News . 41 . September–October 1976 . Farming for Self-Sufficiency Independence on a 5acres Farm . John and Sally Seymour . dead . https://web.archive.org/web/20060901225058/http://www.motherearthnews.com/Livestock_and_Farming/1976_September_October/Farming_For_Self_Sufficiency_Independence_on_a_5_acre_farm . 2006-09-01 .
  12. Book: The domestic dictionary and housekeeper's manual. Gibbons Merle and John Reitch. London. William Strange. 1842. 113.
  13. News: Bygone food quiz reveals pig ignorance among young. The Scotsman. 2006-07-24. https://archive.today/20120730082119/http://thescotsman.scotsman.com/uk.cfm?id=1072282006. dead. 2012-07-30.
  14. News: Young diners lose taste for traditional British dishes . . 2006-07-24 . Martin Hickman . dead . https://web.archive.org/web/20070218011831/http://enjoyment.independent.co.uk/food_and_drink/news/article1193098.ece . 2007-02-18 .
  15. News: The Independent. It's a bunny old world. John Walsh. 2003-04-18. dead. https://web.archive.org/web/20060528123904/http://comment.independent.co.uk/columnists_m_z/john_walsh/article115587.ece. 2006-05-28.
  16. Web site: Martinique: What to Eat. Insight Guides.
  17. Web site: Food: Jugged Kippers. Fat Badgers Guide to Quality Inns, Pubs, Restaurants and Hotels in the United Kingdom. The Fat Badgers.
  18. Book: The Kitchen Hand: A Miscellany of Kitchen Wisdom. Anthony Telford. 2004. Allen & Unwin. 1-86508-890-0. 120.

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