Jammu dress explained

The people of Jammu have the following traditional clothing:

Ghagra choli

It is traditional for women to wear ghagra choli and the scarf ensemble which was also popular in the Punjab.[1] It is still traditional for women to wear the kurta with a lehnga,[2] < as an alternative to the suthan and kurta.

Peshwaj

The traditional ghagra choli was then replaced by the peshwaj for women which flows to the ankles which would sometimes be worn with a suthan (very loose pants with many folds).[3] The men would wear the Jamma (Mughal style shirt) with the suthan.

Suthan and kurta

The traditional dress for men and women is to wear the suthan and kurta but the styles are gender-specific.

Dogri suthan

The traditional Dogri suthan is wide at the top, roomy at the legs and has numerous pleats at the ankles.[4]

Modern suthan

However, the modern style of suthan worn in Jammu is a remnant of the tight suthan which was once popular throughout the Punjab region. It is very loose at the top but is very tight from the knees to the ankles.[5] [6] [7] However, the style is now more popular in Jammu[8] and Himachal Pradesh[9] as the tight suthan is useful in the hills.[10] When worn by men, the drawers are called ghuttana and when worn by women, the suthan (in a variety of colours).[11] When the tight part of the suthan, up to the knees, has multiple close fitting folds, the suthan is referred to as Dogri pants[12] or Dogri suthan,[13] in Jammu and churidar suthan in Himachal Pradesh. It is also worn in the hilly area of the Punjab region.[14] In Jammu, members of all communities wear the suthan.[15]

The traditional Dogri kurta for men is open at the front and flares out from the waist to the knees. The kurta for women tends to be long and cut straight, a style adopted from neighbouring Punjab,[1] as local culture shares an affinity with the Punjab region,[16] especially the southern area.[17]

Notes and References

  1. Book: Kumar . Raj . Paintings and Lifestyles of Jammu Region: From 17th to 19th Century A.D. . 10 October 2023 . Gyan Publishing House . 978-81-7835-577-1 . 352 . en.
  2. Book: Singh . K. S. . Pandita . K. N. . Charak . Sukh Dev Singh . Rizvi . Baqr Raza . Anthropological Survey of India . 2003 . Jammu & Kashmir . 978-81-7304-118-1 . en.
  3. Book: Handa, O.. Textiles, Costumes and Ornaments of the Western Himalayas.
  4. Book: Kumar . Raj . Paintings and Lifestyles of Jammu Region: From 17th to 19th Century A.D. . 2006 . Gyan Publishing House . 978-81-7835-577-1 . 163 . en.
  5. Letters from India and Kashmir (1874) https://books.google.com/books?id=1s5AAAAAIAAJ&amp;q=north+of+delhi
  6. Kumar Suresh Singh, K. N. Pandita, Sukh Dev Singh Charak, Baqr Raza Rizvi. Anthropological Survey of India (2003) Jammu and Kashmir https://books.google.com/books?id=9FigAAAAMAAJ&amp;q=suthan
  7. Sukh Dev Singh Charak (1983) the Jammu Kingdom, Part 1https://books.google.com/books?id=YSEeAAAAMAAJ&amp;q=punjabi+suthan
  8. [Prithivi Nath Kaul Bamzai|Bamzai, P. N. K.]
  9. Kumar Suresh Singh, B. R. Sharma, Anthropological Survey of India, A. R. Sankhyan (1996) Himachal Pradesh https://books.google.com/books?id=XEduAAAAMAAJ&amp;q=suthan+himachal+pradesh
  10. Charak, Sukh Dev Singh (1983) Himachal Pradesh, Volume 4 https://books.google.com/books?id=UU1DAAAAYAAJ&amp;q=dogri+punjabi+pyjama
  11. Saraf, D.N. (1987) Arts and Crafts, Jammu and Kashmir: Land, People, Culture https://books.google.com/books?id=r72ywi3YYMAC&amp;dq=Arts+and+Crafts%2C+Jammu+and+Kashmir%3A+Land%2C+People%2C+Culture+dogri+suthan&amp;pg=PA37
  12. Banerjee, Sanhati. The Rockstar Dhoti (15.01.2012)http://www.planyourwedding.co.in/hyderabad/fashion/the-rockstar-dhoti.aspx
  13. Kumar, Ritu (2006) Costumes and textiles of royal Indiahttps://books.google.com/books?id=qYK1AAAAIAAJ&amp;q=dogri+churidar
  14. GORE, Frederick St. John. (1895) Lights & Shades of Hill Life in the Afghan and Hindu Highlands of the Punjab. A contrast ... With maps and illustrations, etc http://access.bl.uk/item/pdf/lsidyv39189ee9
  15. Sarfi, Maqsooda (2004 Japan From The Eyes Of An Indian Girl https://books.google.com/books?id=eR5xAAAAMAAJ&amp;q=dogri+suthana
  16. Betts, Vanessa and McCulloch, Victoria (2014) Indian Himalaya Footprint Handbook: Includes Corbett National Park, Darjeeling, Leh, Sikkim https://books.google.com/books?id=77D8AgAAQBAJ&amp;dq=dogra++court+dress&amp;pg=PA223
  17. Kehal, Harkesh Singh. Alop ho riha Punjabi Virsa. Unistar Books PVT Ltd
  18. Book: Shukla . Pravina . The Grace of Four Moons: Dress, Adornment, and the Art of the Body in Modern India . 2013 . Indiana University Press . 978-0-253-34911-8 . en.
  19. Biswas, Arabinda 1985) Indian Costumes [a dress of the Dogras in Jammu is greatly influenced by the sartorial ensemble of the State of Punjab.[https://books.google.com/books?id=vdyBAAAAMAAJ&q=dogri+suthan+]

    Churidar pajama

    The churidar pajama, also called churidar suthan, which forms part of the traditional attire of men and women in Punjab[17] is a combination of the tight suthan of the Punjab region and the traditional Dogri loose suthan. Accordingly, the churidar pajama is believed to be derived from the suthan. The Churidar pajama is popular all over the sub-continent and was developed in the Punjab region, and is associated with the Punjab.[18]

    References

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